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  1. Hey All, I've had heaps of troubles with achieving CO2 concentration within my 3x2x2 Tank. Using a drop checker I can get the correct concentration but the bubble counter is going to fast (7+ bps) to count and I go through a 2.6kg cylinder in a month or two which seems rather quick from my understanding of how long they should last. After going through 3 cylinders worth and because the tank wasnt at home I wasnt noticing it go empty for a week i decided it would be better to stop rather then the up/down of pH etc as the CO2 ran out every few weeks. I had been using a cheapie ISTA co2 reactor with the supplied line (which i suspect is silicone which could be a big part of the problem). As such I was going to completely overhaul the CO2 system looking at a new reactor and I couldn't decide between going for a Serra version of the ISTA style which I hear is good. The other option I noticed was the UP Aqua In-Line Atomiser and I was wondering how people had gone with it and how it compares to the Serra.
  2. Ive had a handful of gourami's over the years and espically the dwarfs can be very aggressive towards each other. Despite having a moderately planted tank I still had issues with them.
  3. Another option for a quiet overflow the "Bean Animal" setup. Its what I am planning on doing with my next tank. They supposable when setup correctly are as quiet as a canister/syphon because it basically is
  4. Give them a call about what theyve got. Their website isnt ao great. They inital outlay is more. But i found when i figured it out that a LED unit was going to cost less over two years wheb i figure in replacement lamps. Plus theres a definate power saving Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
  5. I previously had rebuilt an old t5 unit that blew both ballasts and as such I only used to the shell. I got the tombstones from Prolamps as they were one of the only places around that had the type I was chasing. They also sold the Sylvania Grolux Lamps at a good price. I found them to work pretty well over my tank. The best bet I found was to look for an good T5 ballast on eBay. If you can wait for postage they are typically well priced in Brittan/Europe. Sorry to divert away from your plan but I personally feel that especially when your trying to grow plants that you may get better results if you look at LED lighting or at least T5 HO. There are some good reasonably priced LED units out there as well you just have to look and ask around. Our sponsors have some good stuff. There are also some Australian company's that make good units too. I use this unit and the plants love it.
  6. Try Clayfield aquariums. I got mine there and I think they're the real ones. They absolutely demolished all the hair algae in the tank. Best and Nice looking fish algae eaters I've ever got
  7. So like everybody here at its come up against some really bad hard water lime scale build up on tanks and have struggled and failed to completely remove it despite following the general advice. So I stepped it up a notch. Just ordinary concentrated hydrochloric acid from the pool shop. When using this stuff make sure to wear nitrile gloves and have bicarb on hand to deal with any spills. Here's the tank. It has been left out in the sun for weeks. So it gone really hard and was difficult to scrape with a razor. Basically all I did was pour a small amount in the tank. Using a cheap scouring pad soak up the acid and scrub away all lime. Repeated until I thought it's all gone. Carefully rinsed the walls of by tank down. Importantly I added bicarb to the acid solution in the tank untill it stopped fizzing. It you don't do this its bad for the environment and the sewage systems. Then I tipped it out and called it a day. Easy as. Just a quick after shot after drying a portion of the glass. Just thought I'd tack on some safety information: Conectrated Hydrochloric acid is dangerous! This stuff here is 33% (or 9M to the chemicaly inclined) Concentrated HCl will do a nice job at dissolving any metals it comes in contact with producing hydrogen gas. (as will vinegar, just slower as its less concentrated) Always use nitrile or chemical resistant gloves when the is the possibilty of skin contact. Always have bicarb on hand to neutralise any spills - but when adding bicarb to a spill be careful as the reaction is vigorous and produces alot of heat! Always neturalise the solution with bicarb before disposing of. The fumes are dangerous and hurt like hell, don't breathe them. If you do move away and take many deep breaths to clear the gas out completely! This looks scary when you look at the list... Its really not that bad to deal with, you just need to be careful and keep these things in mind!
  8. Just something to keep in mind with deionised and RO water is that they both contain no buffering compounds. Which makes the pH value meaningless. The low reading of 6 you get is from co2 from the air dissolving in the water. When you add it to water containing buffers like tank water ( even if you haven't added buffers) it will have very little if any effect on the pH in the tank.
  9. Just an update/question. I've scored a free 3x1.5x1.5 to use for the sump and have been drawing up the designs and everything and it looks a little bit tight under the tank. Would this be workable? Also would the sump design work. Water moving from left to right, coarse sponge between the first two diviodors, heaps of jap matt, ceramic rings, bioballs, filterwool, etc in the middle and heater, return pump, co2 reactor in the last section?
  10. Nope. That tanks 51 side and won't fit under the stand. For a marine tank. Would 3ft of sump work well? I figure for planted its still over board but worth considering
  11. Just realized in the shed at my parents there's a rubbish 4th I could use. Its not pretty. Not even slightly pretty but should do
  12. Okay then. I'll see what I can with out. Any recommendations for size? The plan was to try and build the sump like marine. And at the end of the day the battles can just be cut out and moved where they need to be.
  13. The main selling point for sump is that its easier down the track to change to marine.. Besides a Betts barracks its never done a sump before. So I don't know about sizing. The rest is easy enough. Sizing just seems to be a controversial factor
  14. Are there sump designs out there that are good for both reef and planted? How bad is co2 off gassing? And is this avoidable by using fight kids in the tank. I have read that bean animal overflow is best for planted. And is also excellent for reef in a coast to coast Weir. How much more expensive would sump be over suitable canisters/whatever? Edit: it sneaky at work research seems together that its the surface allegation that poses the Co2 so set dry trickle filters aren't recommend. Same with a Weir (which in not a fan of anyways). So I think a sump maybe workable of this thing are kept in mind.
  15. On a budget front planted would be much easier as is fairly obvious when you look at the complexity and tech in a reef. We have the Co2 gear for a planted and a decent light (albiet for a 3 foot). We love planted tanks and after thinking about it well have to leave marine until another day. For our 3x2x2 for filtration we have a aqis 1200 II. But don't know what we should be looking at for filtration? Sump seems off the board. What would you guys recommend?
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