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simo@

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About simo@

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  • Birthday 09/06/1975

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    SUNSHINE COAST

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    self employed
  1. smiths on sandgate road are great for cichlids. then look up aquarama and mabe atlas all around the same area i'm not sure of the other addresses but google them..
  2. i think you hit the nail on the head with a bigger body of water. Or more filtration. but at the end of the day you can only filter the water so much. I would get a bigger tank. I have experienced this problem a few times and have also put big filtration units on 3ft tanks and this helped but at the end of the day it was still a battle untill i got bigger tanks or put less or smaller fish in the problem tank.
  3. i have tested 2 common types of bi carb soda and both of them increased the phosphates in the water. Go and get your self a phosphate test kit and check it yourself. Somone once told me that they found a brand that did not alter the phosphate in his tank. So try i few out mabe you will get lucky.
  4. Thanks guys i have found a solution to my problem and yes it lies in the KH and you can use baking soda but i prefer not to as i found that it increases your phosphates. Calcium carbonate. is the better one to use and it does not push your GH up.
  5. be carefull using bi carb soda as it can push your phosphates up. your better off with calcium carbonate as it will raise your KH but not your GH and with no side affects
  6. Whitenight i got this out of an water chemistry book and thought i would share it with you to show you how much water hardness does matter... General hardness is the more important of the two in biological processes. When a fish or plant is said to prefer "hard" or "soft" water, this is referring to GH. Incorrect GH will affect the transfer of nutrients and waste products through cell membranes and can affect egg fertility, proper functioning of internal organs such as kidneys and growth.
  7. thanks but not sure if you noticed if it says SEACHEMS then it cost lots. however i have used this buffer and agree it does work very well. however that is pretty much what im using at the moment. and getting the ph up is not really the problem it's the keeping it there that is the problem. and keeping it stable. The other problem is that you can't really add buffer with out doing a water change. As this will cause an ammonia spike. if you put a bit in at a time you can get away with it but here is the catch that is annoying me the most. If you do add buffer inbetween water changes to help keep your PH stable then yes you stabilise your PH but at the same time you push up the TDS up far beond where you want it. And if i could find a way to push the PH up without TDS then that would be good.. By the way a big thanks to Frenchy as that DIY buffer is a great idea. And would save you heaps i love DIY stuff. i built my own Co2 unit for my planter tank for only $9 and only cost me around $2 a month to maintain bugger BOC i'll keep my money.
  8. Does anyone have any super tricks up there sleeve to help buffer the PH of a tank.(500lt tank) i use Cichlid water conditioner. it will get the ph to around 8.5 max and normaly settles to 8.2 although i have had the ph dropping down to 7.6 within 1 week. quite annoying at times. i am using aquasonic eco complete (black and white sand) as a substrate and that alone should buffer the PH but is does not. so i added 2 bags of crushed coral to my sump. And it seems to be no better. Further more what do you run your TDS at i have been keeping around 5 to 600ppm but when i have to try and buffer my water a little harder i have taken it to 1000ppm i have read so many different levels to keep it at and it seem the norm is around 500ppm however i have got fish from a shop before and the TDS were 2000ppm. i would concider this quite high.???? any thoughts..
  9. Awesome fish love your work
  10. very good looking fish. Thanks for the pics
  11. dont worry it happens to the best of us. I would suggest you set up a small quarantine tank to put your new fish in for 3 to 4 weeks before putting them into your good tank. Sorry this does not help your current situation. But would be a good thought for next time though. the first time this happend to me i lots 200 fish not happy jan!!!!!....
  12. well i'm with Rossco we dont really know what effect it will have on our tanks and breeding but NSW have been using it for years. So hopfully it's not to bad. However i don't really want to drink it as it has been proven in other countrys to cause cancer in males. and being that it is banned in many countrys due to the fact that it is a POISON yes a POISON i think that the stupis idiots behind it should be shot. And we should be given a choice if we want it in our water or not. No one asked me if i wanted it in there. Cause i would have sad NO. Now many of us that dont want cancer or poison will have to fork out lots of money to remove it from the water before we drink it. RE distalation or RO. Well i could go on for hours but you get the picture.
  13. that sure does not look like a sulphur crest to me and i have had 2 of them you shold be seeing a yellow strip from the lips to the crest and over the top with the body often being purple to blue. i have a small one in my tank at the moment but the light is off and there all asleep. i will see if i can get photo tomorrow if i get time and post it for you...
  14. if you still have fish in your tank. And the water is still cloudy then i tend to aggree with other guys i dont think your tank has stopped cycling yet. and yes cycle is a good product. But if you want to try to keep your fish alive then i would be putting in some stability or cycle in and bashing 2 to 3 cap fulls of PRIME in the tank to help stop the cycle and knock any amonia on the head to help save your fish. I have done this in the past and it work great. i put 3 caps in a 200lt tank every 2 days for a week and finaly the new canister filter took over. and as you now have a good canister filter. it should not take long. but adding a new canister filter can often cause you water to start cycling. Use the PRIME.
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