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About khemo

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  • Birthday 15/10/1988

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  1. Powders will last you a long time and are cheap and more effective. I source mine from the links below: Macros: NPK Potassium nitrate (KNO3): Ebay.com.au Monopotassium phosphate (KH2PO4): AQUAGREEN Catalogue Potassium sulphate (if you want extra potassium): AQUAGREEN Catalogue Micros: Chelated Micronutrients "Aquarium Mix" (made for hydroponics I think): AQUAGREEN Catalogue * scroll to the bottom of the Aquagreen catalogue to see all the ferts they have available.
  2. A few years ago a friend and I found some nice specimens up around the Sunshine Coast here in Queensland. They were growing on land up to 5-6 meters away from water even in non-marshy/dry conditions which was surprising. I had some photos of the environment where they were found but lost them. I only have these crappy photos of them in my tank...
  3. All those plants in the picture are available in Aus. The one you are after is Eriocaulon sp. shiga.
  4. Algae spores are everywhere: in the air, water, on fish, on plants etc. No matter what you do you will have algae spores in your tank. So it's pretty unfair to say that aquariums shouldn't sell plants with algae since it is everywhere plus black beard algae is not a disease. You can buy a clean plant and it can get black beard once in your tank, or you can buy a plant with algae and treat the plant before putting it in your tank and it will never get algae again, or you can put a plant with algae straight into your tank and the algae will die off over time; It all depends on you the aquarist and how experience you are. The reason why a person has chronic black beard algae is because they are doing something wrong and not because they have contracted it from elsewhere. Algae is always present. You can't get rid of it, you can only control and limit it.
  5. definitely not HC. Looks like HM.
  6. Ok, I was just in Fishchick's today. Looks like all the girls are reserved for the early birds Was hoping to get at least a pair to breed but had to settle with a few males instead since there were no females free. Hopefully you guys are successful in breeding them. I for one will be first in line for some F1s
  7. Apparently you can eat it. Nice and crunchy, yummo!
  8. Seachem Flourish Comprehensive + Seachem Flourish Excel is usually a good combo for easy plants like anubias.
  9. Fishchick Aquatics in Annerley is the only place I know where you can buy needle/narrow leaf java fern. They also have a lot of other rarer type plants and plant related stuff so well worth a visit. As for the staurogyne sp. repens just let me know when. It is due for a trim soon.
  10. OK I forgot to mention this earlier, but I hope your tank is fully cycled? The causes of algae can be difficult to rectify as there are many causes but hopefully I can give you a few tips that may help. First of all, the stock light is 7600k (according to internet) so it is within a good range for growing plants. Don't worry about your lights, they are fine for what you are trying to achieve (I assume low tech planted tank). It will be a challenge to grow more demanding plants in your setup but I still think you can grow the hair grass adequately (won't be easy though). For what it's worth, I don't think adding duckweed is a great idea (will block light, clog your filter intake, pain in the ass to get rid off.... etc.). Excess nutrients per se, is not what usually causes algae, an unbalanced tank is what usually causes algae. Sounds like hippy talk I know but it is the general saying. Also the fertilser you are using 'Easy life pro-fito', does not contain 2 of the most important nutrients plants need: Nitrogen and Phosphorus. Think of it this way - light is like the gas pedal on your car and ferts are your fuel and the car represents your plants. By upping your light, you are telling your plants to grow faster but the problem is you are not providing the fuel for them to do so efficiently (not all of it anyway). Your plants need Nitrogen and Phosphorus to grow to their full potential along with all the other lesser ferts. I know from experience that hair grass really picks up when there's a good supply of nitrogen. A good all in one fert that I like to use is Seachem Flourish Comprehensive. Another very important fert is carbon. Plants can never get enough of this stuff - the more the better. It also seems to have the added benefit of deterring algae (kill two birds with one stone). So try dosing more of it, BUT BE CAREFUL as too much will kill your inhabitants. Plants love the stuff but fish don't and too much will kill your fish. I would recommend starting with 1.5 mls a day and seeing how you go. Here are some plants suggestions that I know will grow in your setup and will look amazing. Tie some java fern (either phillipine or needle leaf java fern) and some African Water Fern (Bolbitis heudelotii) onto the rock in the middle. Tie some anubias nana or anubias nana petite on smaller rocks or a small piece of wood and place them in front of the large rock under the java and african fern. Put some Hygrophila polysperma or Hygrophila polysperma 'Rosanervig' behind the rock for some nice contrast. To replace the hair grass (if it doesn't work out), try some staurogyne sp. repens (I can give you some of this to try if you like). Just suggestions........ You might already know this but water changes are integral in keeping algae at bay as well. This will get rid of organic waste build up. I would recommend changing at least 20% of your water every week/fortnight. Lastly from what I've read the edge 2 is only 46 litres. So be careful with your fish stocking. One of the biggest mistakes I see is tanks with too much fish/bioload which causes an imbalance resulting in uncontrolled algae outbreaks (too much bioload for the system to handle naturally). HTHs
  11. Hi Tess Hair grass needs a good amount of ferts to spread. It also needs the right types of ferts. What liquid fertiliser are you using? How much (mls) are you dosing? Also what substrate do you have in the tank? 14 hours is too long of a photoperiod. Reduce it to 8 hours to help reduce the algae. 8 hours is enough to grow your plants.
  12. Definitely not HC. It is not in the best of health so is hard to tell but from knowing the kind of plants the Rocklea guy sells and from the structure of the leaves, it could be micranthemum umbrosum.
  13. Your link doesn't work anymore so i can't see what light you have but the plants you have listed are very low light demanding plants. I think keep your currrent light and see how you go first and if you feel you need more, you can upgrade later. In terms of substrate it depends on what type of planted tank you are after: a low-tec planted tank or a hi-tech planted tank. IMO ADA aquasoil is the best plant substrate you can buy but you do not need it if you are only after a low-tech setup. I assume since you are just starting out, you are going low-tech first to get a hang of things. In that case there are plenty of good DIY substrates that you can makeup from ingredients bought from bunnings (I will PM you a good recipe). Your plants need macro nutrients, micro nutrients and carbon (CO2 or excel) to thrive. Since I assume your tank is bare atm (no livestock) you will need to provide this. For your setup and your plant selection, I would recommend Seachem Flourish comprehensive; This will give you all the macro and micro nutrients you will need. I would also recommend you use Seachem Excel as this will provide the carbon source for your plants. These liquid ferts will not cause algae to break out in your tank. If you get algae infestation it is more likely because your tank is unbalanced; you have too much ammonia or nitrites or other causes, it will not likely be because you are dosing ferts (generally). Don't worry about the snails i reckon. You will always have snails in your tank sooner or later. If you do not overfeed your inhabitants the snail population will not get out of control. I would highly recommend you do as much research on google as you can about the nitrogen cycle and its role in aquariums. Your understanding of this will will make or break your planted aquarium - it is very important. Once you have a good understanding of this your second question regarding the shrimp introduction will be answered. HTHs
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