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Barmy

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About Barmy

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  • Birthday 22/06/1990

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    Springwood
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    Queensland

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  1. So plecos will eat it? I took one of the pieces of wood (bought two big ones at the same time from Pet City) out of the tank and have left it in the sun all week to see what it would do. It is still basically black (the dried-out colour of the algae) rather than its usual reddish colour, even after a week of sunbathing. If your advice is to just put it back in the tank and leave it die off / get eaten, then I'll happily do that. Better than trying to clean it.
  2. Hey all, Currently in the process of doing a fishless cycle on a new 6x2x2, however despite not having any light running on the tank at all I seem to have found myself with quite a lot of algae that I can't identify. It's brown, stringy, but doesn't look quite like anything I've been able to find online. It is exclusively attacking my driftwood. It comes off very easily if i rub it, but I'd like to just kill it and keep it gone than have to drag my driftwood out. I'm planning on getting some sort of pleco (either bristlenose or gold spot) once the tank is cycled, so if its something they're likely to eat then I won't worry about it for now. Pictures attached. Anyone know what we're looking at? 20180218_083559.mp4
  3. Hey all, Looking to do quite a large low-tech plant purchase soon to fill out a 6x2x2, just wondering what the best places are nowadays. I used to use Fish Chicks whenever I needed greens but pretty sure they're gone now, and all the LFS I've been to recently further south have pretty slim pickings. I know about https://www.aquagreen.com.au, can't see many low-tech stuff on their list at the moment though (ie. anubias, java ferns, etc). Good assortment of crypts at least. Any ideas?
  4. How does this look: https://www.kicarma.com.au/coarse-sand/ Found it at Bunnings, perfect colour but can't find a PDS online so not sure 100% about the composition (ie. whether its inert).
  5. Hey all, just wondering what people use for substrate for Geos? I found this https://www.clarkrubber.com.au/filter-beige-20kg after hearing many people recommend pool filter sand, is this the right stuff? Seems to be that kind of beigy-brown most Geo tanks seem to have at the bottom but not too sure about how it'll go being sifted through their gills. Bunnings Play Sand is also an option but I've heard it can be a bit sharp for Geos given the tiny grain size. Any thoughts?
  6. Has anyone figured out anything more about sexing these guys? I bought a colony of 8 from Bundy a while back, apparently they're 4 males / 4 females, I've been able to identify one male and one female given the fact they paired off, but other than that I've got no idea which is which.
  7. So a couple of years back I was big into Dwarf Cichlids and planted tanks, and I'm thinking of getting into it again; I always used to go to Fishchick Aquatics in Annerley, since it was a great little place for that kind of stuff, but looking around there these days its very sparse in the dwarf department, plant selection is pretty thin too compared to what I remember. Is there anywhere worth going to these days specifically for these sorts of things?
  8. Hey guys, I've been keeping SA Cichlids for a while now, currently have a 6x2x2 of mid-to-large specimens, but I'm looking to switch things up and am considering an Eartheater tank instead. Never kept Eartheaters before so looking for some advice. For starters, what substrate do I need and where should I get it? I see pool filter sand mentioned a lot, are there any particular brands that have nice dark colours as I assume these fish are much like most others in that their colours "pop" more against dark backgrounds/substrates. Do these guys have any preference for filtration/flow levels? I've got a 4200lp/h pump going on the tank at the moment which keeps the water crystal clear even with my big Americans, but I've read Eartheaters prefer slightly lower flow. What kind of tank decorations work with these guys? Do they prefer the thinner, tangled driftwood pieces or will they be perfectly happy with the more standard large pieces of driftwood? What about plants - obviously nothing that roots in the substrate, but how do anubias and java fern go when tied to wood? One of the reasons I want to switch out my species is that my current Americans destroy any greenery I put in the tank so it makes it very hard to decorate. Finally, stocking: I'll be aiming for about 6 Red Head Tapajos to start with because they seem to be a fan favourite and they do look really nice, but I also really like the look of the Heckelii and the Altifrons. Guessing I couldn't keep all three types in a single 6x2x2 though. Also dither fish - what works well, what gets eaten? Any advice from more seasoned eartheater owners welcome.
  9. Glad I found this thread. I'm looking at buying a tank and the builder specified that the base (and the base alone) would be made of laminated glass. Looking around on the net it seems opinion is actually divided on this subject, with surprisingly little in the way of actual, researched evidence and an abundance of anecdotal stuff (that goes both ways). What I did find was this: Aquarium Fish Tank Build Aquariums , which recommends that laminated glass is roughly 93% the strength of same-size float but doesn't shatter when it breaks, meaning you've got some time to re-home the fish instead of the immediate catastrophe that a float glass tank would create. This is good news for people with laminate glass, because honestly I don't think any professionally made tank is really going to be "tested" in standard use; Glass and silicone are both stronger than people give credit for, so being "7% less strong" isn't a huge deal. On the other hand, if I'm buying a new tank from a tank builder, I think I'd prefer float, because if laminate's only advantage is "if it goes wrong, it's less of an immediate problem", then that's not really a selling point for me because ideally it wouldn't go wrong in the first place. Therefore I'd rather "get use" out of more starting strength than "get use" out of a somewhat friendlier shatter. I also found this: Building a Monster Aquarium, by Michael "Arapaiman" , a guy who basically built Sea World in his house and he used float. If it's good enough for that purpose then I don't really think there's any concern over what would be better for our (comparatively) tiny tanks. Just my opinion. I think I'll definitely be asking for float.
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  11. Looking very good there zane. Is there C02 or anything on this? I can see mostly low-tech plants, but those two bushy ones either side of the middle don't look like the sort you normally see in low-tech setups.
  12. I'm gunna throw some more weight behind the "not enough drainage" crowd. It's a massive tank, and presumably it's going to have a lot of fish in it, so filtration really is your top concern. Too many nasties are going to build up in your tank if you aren't turning water quick enough, and a single 40mm overflow just isn't going to cut it for the flow rates you need. Also consider that with more overflows comes greater safety: If your one and only overflow gets blocked somehow, your tank will overflow. With multiple overflows, that won't happen, as the un-blocked overflows will simply pick up the slack. A gravity-fed overflow won't move 10,000 litres through a hole that size in one hour. You say you had no problems with flow rate, but I'm betting you did: That 25mm return is one bottleneck, the head height is another. You were most likely getting a sub-5000lp/h flow rate.
  13. This is clearly a false assertion. Look at Bristlenose - produced in such bulk quantities as to be almost completely worthless, yet remains as one of the most popular, easy-to-sell, commonly kept fish. There's no legitimate reason for price fixing. Breeders are of course entitled to sell their fish at a price that is fair to themselves, that makes the hassle and cost of breeding them in the first place worthwhile. That price will vary from breeder to breeder. Beyond that, you can't arbitrarily determine that some prices are "too cheap", based on some imaginary inherent dollar worth of each specimen. That's restricting not only the rights of the breeders to sell their own fish however they like, but also the rights of buyers who should not be expected to pay a huge mark-up on a fish just by virtue of it being an L-number. The complaint that cheaper fish means more inexperienced breeders and the potential for crossbreeding is fair enough, but keeping prices high for everyone so that a naive few can't create crossbreeds is not the way to go.
  14. You'd want at least the first section filled with sponge to filter out all the fish **** and sediment coming down from the top tank.
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