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MDAMAZING

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About MDAMAZING

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    Junior Member

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  • Location
    Brisbane
  • State
    Queensland
  1. What do you think of my LED specs 120 degree Red 660nm x60 620-630nm x10 Blue x10 Orange x10
  2. Just used deionised water after days of dissolving coral bone, pH 7.6 KH 5 GH undetectable I dropped my TDS meter so no luck there I'm quite happy with the results. Decided against the 400w bulb Might not need a calcium reactor if I'm carbonate dosing with every top off Just need to improve my wc schedule.
  3. That's very true, I happen to have very hard tap water atm, I decided too hard for top off but since it's mostly hardened with lime I wonder if I can find away to use it in combination with pre-treated deionised water.. I don't have hard corals or many softies so I assume the extra calcium I plan on dosing will only end up losing its buffering capability and continue contributing to TDS. I don't think I would have much luck scrubbing calcium from the water column. Might have to stock up on saltwater.
  4. Nitrates off the chart KH 6* pH 7.8 Thinking I should perform the all important wc before I try to ajust chemistry.. I got my hands and compressed C02 thinking about calcium reactor and increasing lighting from 10w T8 to 400w high pressure sodium bulb for 1 hour at midday mixed with 12 hours 90w grow LEDs. All I need is some more coral bone yet I found a bag of oyster shells, would that be ok media for my calcium reactor. Intense lighting / algae growth will give me a good indication of excess nutrients.. And with all that lighting I could run some small type of algae scrubber to help out in between wc. Had more than my fair share of set backs recently, the reefs chemistry has been severely neglected but I pay very close attention to top off and signs of stress, which I'm still surprisingly yet to see in pico. "Can't help but feel I'm a bit in over my head"
  5. Couldn't find my KH so I ordered a new one. I think you've got a good point.. So I'm adding coral bone to my deionised water, should only take a day or so to adjust. It's a complicated parameter yet becomes somewhat simple once understood correctly, I should take closer attention to my little aquariums water quality, it's been going for over two years, at first I was doing 100% weekly wc and over time I've been getting away with months apart before wc, this is only possible because this aquarium happens to contains tough soft coral and highly resilient wild caught clownfish. I've been trying to design a reactor and sump, wet/dry filter & protein skimmer but before I know it I'll be drilling holes.. Installing Cree LEDs ect. But I just seems so much easier to buy a new rimless tank with built in refugium, protein skimmer.. eliminating external sumps and other options. It all makes my little aquarium look very outdated lol considering mine only has an overhead filter box which I've converted into a wet/dry filter and 50micron polishing station. Placing a great amount of pressure on my liverock which is only about 1kg in 6gallons.
  6. .Until now I've been using rainwater to top off my pico marine I did notice that the pH would drop over time and just assumed that high nitrates were the main contributing factor, I have started using deionised water which has a pH of 6.0 which bothers me more than the rainwater I was using before registered at about 6.8 i did try using coral bone to alter the rainwaters pH prior to top off but stopped because I knew I was only adding to my 6gallon/pico's General Hardness since I'm adding more deionised water over the hotter Queensland climate, the only thought that comes to mind is acid rain.. should I be using pH balanced RO water or is altering the pH with calcium carbonate sufficient..? keeping in mind that I rarely do marine water changes maybe once every 6 months or so lol
  7. Why would the top surface area matter in relation to the volume..?
  8. Nitrates scale on the left and timeline on the bottom.
  9. At the moment I'm doing 50% wc every three days or double 50% wc once a week. If I have time I'll do double 50% wc every three or four days. Dripping 50% a day will amount to about 100% per week. This is simply the maintaince requirement for my overstocked African Cichlid aquarium.
  10. .I want in install a continuous drip system unfortunately my local tap water contains chloramine at about 0.5ppm of ammonia I know that if I use high quality catalytic activated carbon I'll be able to convert the chlorine into ammonia, I haven't tested this out so I'm not exactly sure what ppm of ammonia will remain once I've removed all chlorine but I'm guessing somewhere in the range of 1-2ppm ammonia maybe even higher.. So if I'm dripping 50% of my aquarium volume per day that would theoretically create a huge bio load that really isn't going to be beneficial. Nitrates will only climb faster from the increasing the already existing level of ammonia. My only thought is too completely pretreat tap water prior to dripping.. firstly: convert chloramine into only ammonia secondly: convert ammonia into nitrates Thirdly: reduce nitrates fourthly: temperature regulation These steps would effect drip rates. Hopefully without contributing excess ammonia nitrites and nitrates. you're probably wondering why I wouldn't just reduce my nitrates instead of doing it in another system altogether, and my only reply to that is, I want to eliminate water changes, replenish lost minerals and remove any excess hormones, dissolved organic & inorganic waste, proteins, possible pathogens ect ect.
  11. Forgive my spelling but wouldn't airlift cause marine setups to frof like in a protein skimmers (bind organic proteins to air bubbles) or do only Venturi effects only cause that to occur ?
  12. I would spend a bit of time researching if I were you.. Glass is very delicate and large tanks usually are rather thick... There's a variety of overflow styles which have evolved over the years and bottom drilling I think is the latest in discreet and sound management. Personally I would get some help if I were you, post you ideas and designs so we can help you decided the most appropriate and ideal design in which you should drill. The sump and overflow is a complicated system which should be deeply investigated to suit each situation. Taking into consideration anti-syphoning and sound reducing also the type of sump you intend on using if it's wet/dry and baffled or mainly live rock or refugium, I've never owned a sump but I'm sure your flow rate will differ depending on which type of sump setup you're using.. Most importantly fail safe design is paramount. I don't mean to drown you in the spectrum of sumps but don't rush it.. Drilling is extreme imo The parts you seek are not expensive but mistakes that are easily made are. There are endless overflow designs and my preference would have to be the far right in the picture above
  13. Great find thanx for sharing that..! I think if he could've put more effort into the move and transition if he known a little more about fish I'm not expert and only been caring for fish for about three years now and I could see many flaws and risks he took when moving such a delicate and prized fish. I'm guessing he didn't meassure or monitor water qualities or parameters before dumping that beautiful species into unknown water. I'm a little annoyed that he is guessing why he lost his favourite fish and not certain as to why it died. I'm guessing temperature as well but most likely he moved far away and the water hardness was too great in difference for the fish to adapt to so suddenly as well as the move itself was not ideal imo. Good doco !! Please post more you find
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