Welcome to QLD Aquarium Forum

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more!

This message will be removed once you have signed in.

Delapool

Forum Member
  • Content count

    259
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

1 Follower

About Delapool

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Perth
  • State
    Western Australia

More

  • Biography
    4ft planted, tropical community tank.
  • Interests
    Bike-riding, Reading.
  • Occupation
    Geologist
  1. Finally caught the betta (in small tank) taking pellets that made it to bottom of tank. For months he has been trying to convince me he doesn't see any of these and needs more floating ones. (And that these are hard to spot as well - only betta I've had that seems to stalk food pellets as well before a final rush). He shot up to his feeding corner but too late!! Now I know he can find them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Some thoughts anyways, I think you have the experience to know what suits your tank best so just some ideas. Just in case useful (I find it fun as not allowed many tanks) I've put a stocking calculator link below FYI http://aqadvisor.com Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Imo I think you are stocked when I try to picture the schools moving around. I think you could increase the size of schools with a few extra fish but not add another school. The inch per gallon guideline also imo can work for tropical community tanks of smaller fish (although lots of other stuff then comes in like stocking at substrate, schools, centre-piece fish, plants, etc). But I consider it should be applied assuming fish are grown (and including tail). This works for me as I tend to over-stock. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Slow growth but some signs of progress. 14th May. 4th April. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Hey, thanks for posting this. Love watching these videos and appreciate the effort that goes into them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Looks great! Had something similar in a betta tank but snails destroyed it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Not sure if this will help but sometimes sitting the pump on a towel will make it quieter. Also if the air lines are kinked or air stone is blocked (over time), the reduced air flow / high line pressure (there's probably some great technical term) can make them noisey. I have mine for looks and it sits inside a cupboard. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Test results: API nitrates 20ppm and phosphate 1ppm. Noticing more GSA so increasing phosphate to see if that helps. Noticed a lot of muck on the edges of the PAR meter window so got some cotton buds and cleaned it several times. Seems to have helped! Early Jan - 139 (at surface, under T5HO). Late April - 110 (at surface, under T5HO). (which would give ~80% drop in 4 months if I believe this set of numbers). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. hi

    Welcome Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Welcome Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Below is aponogeton from this morning: And tonight: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Totally agree, even with a betta the amount is pretty unbelievable (sometimes I wonder if he raids the fridge at night). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I take it back - I didn't really look at the saltwater side. More available than I thought. It's pretty interesting. http://www.theaquariumshop.com.au/shopexd.asp?id=5184&name=Aquasonic Vertonex 250mL I looked back on a US site and my impression was quinine is not used very often in freshwater (can't comment on saltwater). On reading it seemed effective for difficult to treat ich and low risk (I've never used it before so it was just reading posts from members I know well). So I'm not sure if it is not used more often due to cost and/or availability or something else. I've never really noticed it here in shops. I would be interested in how it goes in a planted tank. Most on the US forum used heat/salt or meds (MG or more rarely copper, very rare was quinine and little feedback on results) http://www.nationalfishpharm.com/articles/cryptocarayon_irritans.html http://store.nationalfishpharm.com/NFP-products-Quinaldine-Sulphate-59908.Item.html I've never used salt (for ich) but plenty of reports of it working (e.g. goldfish) and I have used it with catfish and tetras with no issues. Cories could be one that would need some care I think. Have used the heat method. Works but imo need to catch ich early. Good for planted tanks. If the tank recently had a bacterial infection I wouldn't use the heat method. Also used meds - MG and formalin mainly. Next time I'm going to try a half dose first and hope fish adjust better. Also used meds and heat method together with high water surface movement. Normally not recommended due to low O2 as mentioned above. Fish adjusted, it was over summer so it wasn't much temp movement but fish clearly unhappy first few nights. Some thoughts. I don't treat ich very often so some IMO's and from reading up. I don't know why it isn't used more often.
  14. Having food nicked from under you? Could be a yoyo loach problem... Can't grow delicate grasses? That would be the catfish rhinos. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Terrible shot of the betta and Java Fern (which is not really happy but surviving).