Jump to content


Forum Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About lyndon

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
  • State

Recent Profile Visitors

772 profile views
  1. thanks, have you had any experience with it. seems odd that the spots came off so easily, i would have thought if they were growths they would need to be cut off?
  2. Hi all, I have been quarantining some glass fish and rainbows my son and I caught to add to my community tank. one of the glass fish developed what I thought was white spot but the spots failed to disappear after treating a few times. it is the only fish to have developed these spots in the tank. I scraped some off and had a look under a microscope and they didnt appear to have anything worm like inside leading me to think its not white spot. the spots grew in clusters on the side of the body and tips of the fins but separated very easily, like they were stuck on and not a tumorous growth. i took some photos through the microscope but I wasnt able to get anything too clear. If it was lymphocystis are all the other fish likely to be infected. ? are there different strains that infect different species/ is it likely to spread to rams, discus, knife fish, clowns, tetras, blue eyes. I really don't want to euthanise these natives unnecessarily.
  3. Hi All, after some opinions on what sex these Dovii are and what to look for in the absence of spots above the lateral line. I am selling them and don't want to lead people astray. also has anyone ever had female lay without a male present. 4th and 5th pic have laid eggs so I know they're female. 3rd pic and 6th were paired and laid eggs. 3 and 5 were in a divided tank together when 5 laid eggs so I'm assuming 3 is male and 6 is female. 4 and 7 were in a divided tank when 4 laid so I'm assuming 7 is male. any help greatly appreciated.
  4. I use supa chlor and pretty much always use the wet weather dose.
  5. I used one of those razor blade scrapers on mine, I bought a 10 pack of blades and just kept swapping the blade when it didn't feel right, that took off 99% of the silicone without scratching, then I used acetone and a microfibre rag to remove the rest.
  6. I don't want to harp on about it but I have had issues with LEDs dropping. I think I have the exact same LEDs 5050 chips waterproof, come as 5m strip and cost about $30 power supply included. I peeled the backing off and stuck them on with a bit of glue here and there. They heated up and the double sided tape that comes on them seperated from the strip and they fell in the water. And the water made its way in and burnt out some of the chips by the time I got home from work. Since then I have glued some with silicon being sure that the bead overlaps the edge of the strip, and stapled others and have had no issues since.
  7. I don't disagree with you, Vets are the best place to get it and propper diagnosis is always best. Vets do charge a lot more for the same thing unfortunately. There does tend to be a lot of people who way up the cost of vet visit vs new fish and opt for the latter. Or throw every rumoured cure at it and give the fish a long drawn out death. Water quality should be first! Just a point of clarification, the very small dots on the fishes head are sensory pits aren't they?
  8. Your probably right but I like to match as many parameters as I can to be on the safe side. I think fish in aquariums are conditioned to what they are used to. If they have always had cold water changes they'll deal with. If you drop it on them suddenly maybe not.
  9. You could always use one of those camping HWS if your into spending money. Or take your time with the kettle, my personal opinion is that provided your water doesn't have direct contact with the anode, the small amount of hot water you need to add from the tap is going to have very little effect once treated. I would rather roll that dice than no water changes for the 3 months of winter.
  10. I had an issue with some bristle worm looking jerks in my discus tank before that I couldn't get rid of, I frequently gravel vac'd the tank so I just gave it a once over and scooped it all out with a makeshift sieve. Sun dried it for a week and put it back in without issue. The amount of BB lost in your substrate shouldn't be of concern unless your running under gravel filtration as previously mentioned, if anything it should be beneficial in the long run as it should create more in your filter where it's actually needed. One thought that almost caught me out when I did the discus tank is be aware of the stored heat in rocks, it's probably not an issue this time of year or if your adding it immediately after you wash it
  11. What is the tank volume? You probably already know but HITH is much more common is large fish in smaller tanks. Also fits with fast nitrate build up. Metronidazole is IMO the best treatment when used to treat food not water, but you have to let it run its course and take precautions not to create supe bugs. Can be hard to get, you can sometimes buy it from a LFS or chemist sneaky sneaky, otherwise you'll have to see a vet. Or purposely give a relative or friend a severe bacterial infection then steal theirs:behindsofa:
  12. Ive done a few 50% changes lately, my water has been coming out at about 22 degrees after I let it flow for a bit which I do anyway to clear the line. On my 450L it only takes 2.5 10L buckets from the hot tap to maintain temp if I add it gradually whilst filling. Hot water systems vary but mine is a storage tank with a flow though coil. So the tank is full of water which heats a coiled pipe wich the tap water flows through. So this water has had no contact with the sacrificial anode. Also by flushing the line the amount of added copper contaminate would be negligible but good old supa chlor doesn't go astray. I have also boiled rainwater in the kettle when using tank water but my kettle can't keep up with the fill rate.
  13. I know almost nothing about African cichlids but I'm going to have a crack and say Ellioti
  14. Hi P4rker,I'm not sure if you have already or not but you will need to glue or staple those LEDs, the adhesive strip on them does not hold up once the LEDs heat up. They will fall in the water and burn out. If you staple make sure the staples are wider than the strip and only staple on the cut here(scissor pic) on the LEDs. As your shelves are wood if you accidentally hit one of the copper strips it shouldn't hurt. I would also pump some silicone on the BP connectors to stop corrosion, not a big deal I just hate having to redo joints. Love the set up and I will be watching carefully for ideas to change mine.
  15. Hi Mitchell, Im a sparky and although I'm not a fluoro expert I do have quite a bit of experience with them. I don't think the clips are the cause of your problem. There is a small possibility of vapourised metals within the tube collecting in area of the clips away from the cathode due to the light cooling unevenly and this would result in cathode failure but that seems highly unlikely. Those types of clips if I understand correctly are commonly used in oyster lights. If this was the problem I would expect to see some sort of discolouration in the area of the tube where the clips sat at time of failure. You have listed two different tube wattages, is the ballast rated for varied tube power consumption? I personally would be looking else where for the problem. Why are the clips required, the tubes are usually held via the pins on the end. Is it electronic ballasted? Does it cold cathode start? Do you get black ends on the tube quickly? Sorry about all the questions, I'm just trying to get an idea of what could be happening?
  • Create New...