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  1. hi folks had another health scare to add to the one I am recovering from, so things have been very quiet, with lots of bed rest. I have recieved an all clear now so I need to get back in to this. already know what I need to do, should have movement in a week or two. life is like that.
  2. no content huh you should see what folks are saying about you on other threads. - oh, thats right you can't. so why can't you see content ????
  3. hope you didn't take out all the bio balls. a couple of small balls in there would be ideal. the flow will make the balls 'bang' around and help break up and diffuse the co2 more. or at least that is what i did from the research i gathered. and as mentioned - mine was on the out flow side not the intake side, not that i tried it that way, the research seemed to indicate that was best. not that the way you have it won't work. I suspect there are efficiency and cost gains to be had the other way not set in concrete - my experience and opinion only. NOTE: the co2 inlet is at the top of the PVC pipe and that configuration is fine if you keep it like that. if you move it to the outlet side the you should put it at the bottom, with a couple of bio balls, giving it plenty of opp to diffuse along the length of the pvc pipe. personally though - i wouldn't bother changing it. see how it impacts the plants / tank first.
  4. I suspect that the circumstances matter - as mentioned above. for me, ph is not ph. it is the environment that you need to deal with, which in turn includes PH. specific to your circumstance - as i read it: fish tank, water, sponge filter. nothing else in it. water change daily - that is the environment you are talking about. no real chance for ph to swing in any direction for any reason, that i can see (no co2, no lights, no plants, no substrate, no additions of any kind). imho - if the fish are tolerant of the ph out of the tap - leave it alone. keep that environment simple. so here - ph does not matter. of course, as mentioned in other posts above, things can change (environments change) in a tank where there are lots of other things in the tank. so as the environment changes, you need to rethink pH. environment can include species that do have specific needs. this applies - so depending on how fragile the fry species to pH, address as advised above. the issue about the buffer is i think an important one, personally i do like to address the buffer in my tanks. I agree that finding a way to buffer the tank and maintain that buffer is a key in complex/tech environments: - those tanks that have plants, and driftwood and substrates, and livestock and lighting and other gizmoraters. LFS generally have one large tank system, all tanks feed into and return from a single system. so all parameters tend to be the same, system wide. As mentioned there are execptions to the rule for specific need species. IME most LFS dont mess with the ph on the main system. local tap water ph is what they go with - exceptions excluded. not sure if this makes it easier or more complicated regarding your original post. but ultimately , as per a discussion request, more information to add to the mix. this is how i look at things.
  5. i wonder what the chances are of this one and the nano marine currently in build being mixed up at the time of post. suppose we all live in hope.
  6. hi rick - shouldnt you be watching the car racing right about now. clearly your dedication to the hobby shines through
  7. you know, if you really really, like really really give it some planning, you could move from google to prime time TV and give those meercats a run for their money.
  8. i suspect pics will help a lot with understanding the issue. perhaps you have managed to throttle the output somehow. would like to see what the inline reactor looks like.
  9. welcome dude - not sure about the fish and babies.
  10. nothing like a rip in the diaphram of a flapper valve. thats serious aquarium talk to you newbies - wish i knew what it meant too !!
  11. its ok dude - thats what happens with most taswegians as i understand it. almost always, all of them, ' take a break for 20 odd years' - dont leave it that long to drill the tank dude. oh damn - i'm tasmanian. where's that scotch.
  12. the real answer to your question is - do you have a way to test the water. what are ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels. i also don't think you can chuck filter media in to a tank and it is cycled. my suggestion would be to halve everything in you old filter and put it in the new filter. take the new filter and put it in your mature tank ( of course add new stuff to compensate for what you have removed. this tank will have plenty of bio in the tank to compensate. take the old filter with half the stuff in there and put some new stuff to fill it up and place this in to the new tank. take out 50% of the water from you mature tank and put it in the new tank. refill the the other tank of course. make sure there is an ammonia source in the new tank so that the bacteria has something to work with and will continue to build and 'mature' the new tank. a week may be too soon, but this will hasten things up. whatever you do, always check the numbers before adding fish - thinking a tank is cycled is never as good as checking it is. to deal with the patience or impatience I recommend a damn good soft smooth slowdancing scotch. oh hell, let me have the scotch for you, you can twiddle your thumbs.
  13. hi michael got any pics? what size tank mate
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