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About Bigsnappa

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  1. On a similar topic - my FX5 motor seems to have died. Is it a common problem and does anyone have a motor unit or know where I can get one? Basically it suddenly started rattling. It sounded like the impellor shaft had broken or a pebble was rattling in the impellor. I pulled it down and the shaft is fine. No foreign objects in the impellor area. I cleaned it all and reassembled the motor unit then plugged it in. The impellor stops, starts, shudders and stops again. You can hold it and it takes almost no force to stop it rotating. I think the sealed motor unit is rooted.
  2. [ATTACH=CONFIG]25338[/ATTACH] Can anyone identify this light coloured fish that I have adopted? Any info will be much appreciated. Thanks John
  3. Thanks for that - so the eggs are white pin head sized and scattered across the rock, not clumped together? I haven't noticed anything like that with mine yet.
  4. I do notice that the male chases the female around a fair bit. He doesn't seem to be defending any particular piece of territory and doesn't do any damage to the female. I have a piece of slate and a piece of tile in the tank but I have never noticed anything laid on them. What should I be looking for? Does the clutch of eggs resemble a clutch of bristlenose eggs for example? Do they stick to the slate/tile or would they just be laid on top. There are also a couple of bristlenose in the tank, perhaps they snaffle the eggs but I doubt it. Food wise I give them frozen bloodworm, brine shrimp, flake food and I throw in the occasional algae wafer that they nibble on. I use tank water also, with water changes almost every week. Perhaps I should do the changes a bit more regularly. Would they prefer a heavily planted tank, planted at one end and open water at the other, or a fairly open tank? Thanks again John
  5. Could anyone share the parameters and conditions needed to encourage Blue Rams to breed? I have had a proven breeding pair for a bit over 6 months and have had no luck. They are in a 1.5ft tank with a couple of guppies. I have java moss, anubias and some fake plants. PH is around 6.5 to 6.8. Advice to get these beautiful fish to breed would be very much appreciated.
  6. Lincoln Sentry Brisbane 48 Weaver Street Coopers Plains QLD 4108 PO Box 276, Archerfield QLD 4108 T: (07) 3244 3244 Gold Coast 48 Dover Drive Burleigh Heads QLD 4220 T: (07) 5508 0200 Sunshine Coast 29 Technology Drive Kawana Waters Estate QLD 4575 T: (07) 5493 8188 All Qld locations http://www.lincolnsentry.com.au/Contact.aspx
  7. I use Dow Corning 999a. Available from Lincoln Sentry for about $10.50 a tube.
  8. ok - if you could have a look at my other post "Making a Sump" you will get an idea of what I am after. There are photos too. John
  9. Righto I understand that. What I am trying to do is modify/improve the sump in my previous thread. I am after info on the best number of chambers, the gap size between the sump bottom and bottom of the partitions and the height of the partitions in relation to each other. Pictures I have seen indicate that the height of each partition is lower from the water intake chamber to the water return chamber. Also is the 600 x 600 size of tank I have suitable or would I be better off with a rectangular shape? Thanks John
  10. Can someone explain or post a link showing the principles of sump baffles and their spacing. I am wondering how the water travels from one section to another and the effect of water levels to the height of the baffles. Thanks John
  11. Hi all - I have just refurbished a breeding setup, it has 6 tanks of 260mm wide x 520mm long x 320mm (water depth) high. This gives a total capacity of 260 litres. The setup came with a basic sump. I have zero experience with sumps so I would like to know if it is adequate and how I could baffle it in an attempt to make it more efficient. The sump dimensions are 600mm x 600mm x 350mm high. Currently I have the outlets from the 6 tanks running into 2 x 50mm PVC pipe collectors (3 hoses into each). The collectors are above a shallow tray that I have peppered with 3mm holes (drip tray?). There is a layer of dacron on top of this tray. The tray below contains 4 litres of Seachem Matrix, the tray below that has more dacron and the tray below that has Bio Balls. All of these trays are on top of a small clear plastic tub that is also filled with Bio Balls. There are 3 or 4 x 1 inch holes in one lower side of this clear tub that water is draining from into the sump tank. The water level in the sump is about 100mm (therefore currently there is around 36 litres of water in the sump). Can I get some feedback/suggestions on this from those who know more than me. Thanks John
  12. Most people seem happy to just use hydrocrete, so if your trial is ok and you're comfortable go for it. Personally from my experience I think the extra step of a coat of epoxy is worth it. Most people arn't as fussy as I am though. John
  13. A 500ml bottle of West Systems 105 resin is 26 or 27 bucks, the hardener is the WS 207. A 100ml bottle of this is about 20 bucks. This will give you more than enough. Also buy half a dozen cheap brushes that you can throw away afterwards. If you can get some syringes they are good for measuring accurate quantities, just slip 2 inches of clean air tube onto the end of them to help reach into the bottle (a seperate syringe for each bottle, don't get them mixed up). I got some paint for render walls from a render supplier. Its nice and thick, dries fast and fills in the pores in the render nicely before coating with epoxy.
  14. Yes - you just have to be patient though. You need to apply 2 or 3 (or more) coats 24 hours apart then leave it to cure completely which takes 2 weeks. After the first week give it all a good scrub with mild soapy water and then a good rinse, the same again after 2 weeks. When applying the epoxy dont go too thick with the coats as it will run and drip for sure. I check the background every 10 minutes after the application to brush out any runs and drips until it has completely set (about an hour).
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