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About Gavin1980

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  1. Just remember that the ideal turn over (flow rate L/hour) of your filter should be 5 times the water volume of your tank. For example, a 400L tank should have a filter with a flow rate of at least 2000L per hour. On top of that with a canister filter you lose flow due to static head so your flow rate should be more than that, say 2400L per an hour or greater. The head loss can be calculated and there’s also graphs available sometimes for pumps, flow rate vs head height. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. You can do this in the Eheim as well. If you can afford Eheim get it, otherwise go with Aqua One. Have you also considered Fluval? I’d still go the Eheim over Fluval but thought I’d throw another good brand in the mix. I do have an early Aqua One canister with baskets. It still worked the last time I used it. It was the biggest canister they made at the time and similar size to the Eheim 2217 which I bought to replace it. So I know the difference between using both. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. The Eheim design has the intake at the very bottom, and with the media filling all the way out to the side of the canister, it ensures absolutely no possible bypass of water, which can happen using baskets in the Aqua One when media gets clogged. By the way, my Eheim 2217 came with media bags so cleaning is no harder than other filters using baskets. If for some reason it didn’t come with it you can by media bags or get onion bags which is what my bags look like. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I've had the Eheim Classic 600 (2217) for over 10 years and have never had to replace one part. They are a simple design, very reliable and filter very efficiently. Hence why I have just purchased a Eheim 1500XL (2260) as an upgrade for the new larger tank. Yes they are more expensive, but you get what you pay for and it is an investment if you're a serious aquarium keeper. I highly recommend the Eheim.
  5. I bought a Petworx 2300 lph internal filter for my 4x2x2 (400L) tank from AOA as the Otto’s aren’t available. Works very well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Try the “Tech Den” and “Age of Aquarium’s”, both shops have a good range of products. I haven’t tried them but Aqualina lights look good, they are on display at Annerley Aquarium - https://aqualina.net.au/ I recently purchased LED tube system lights from MakeMyLED for my 4x2x2. They have a good product range and will customise and configure to your specific requirements. I’m very happy with the performance of the lights themselves however, I have had problems with the power supply and auto controller and have had to get them replaced within the first 3 months. MakeMyLED aren’t the best to deal with when there’s problems with there products. Despite sending them video footage and photos of the problem I had with the auto controller, they weren’t very forward in offering support and providing good customer service. MakeMyLED process of dealing with a product problem is very unprofessional and they will do and say everything possible to get out of paying for postage to send the product to them for repairs. It’s ashame as the lights perform really good, but a product is only as good as the support that backs it up. One thing you will need to consider is the depth of your aquarium and if you are having plants. You will need to ensure that the strength of the lights will be strong enough to provide the required light to the plants. If you only have fish then this won’t be an issue and you will get away with a cheaper light setup. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. I’m in the process of getting a composite bin setup up for two purposes, one which of course is to feed worms to my fish. I’ll check out the link. Any info on these guys is much appreciated. Thanks Mick. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. So I’ve got a very nice Bullrout around 13cm that I’m trying to get onto dry/frozen food. I have had him for almost a month and haven’t seen him eat anything. He’s in a tank with a Bass and a greedy Tandanus. They get fed dry food in the mornings which consist of Hikari Massivore Delight and Spectrum Cichlid mix. At night I alternate between frozen Hikari Krill and Ocean Nutrition Lance Fish. I’ve started feeding them the frozen food without the lights on in complete darkness before bedtime as someone recommended it will help in the process. I’ve been told to be patient as it will take some time of starving to get the Bullrout onto dry/frozen foods. He seems healthy and active as he swims in the current of the filter from time to time. I have no idea if he is going for the frozen food but will try feeding with the lights on to find out. Has anyone had success in doing this? Is there anything else I can do to get him onto these foods? I don’t want to be stuck feeding live foods on a regular basis unless I really have to. As it is I haven’t fed him any live food since I got him. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Thanks Mick. That Gudgeon looks awesome! Are Jade Perch less aggressive than Coal Grunters? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Why is it so hard to find large Archer fish? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. My tank is 4x2x2. I thought the Silver Perch and Barcoo Grunter were aggressive? What size would you recommend considering the size of the Tandanus? I’m going to try to get some large Archers and a Bullrout if possible. Would be great to put something else with them as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Hey Mick, how big is your tank? Did you start with all of them from juveniles? What’s the size proportion between them? I tried introducing a 24cm Murray Cod on the weekend and 24 hours later it was attacking the Tandanus and I had to split them up. Not sure if it was just never going to work, tank is too small, need more fish, or maybe a better setup or cave for the Cod to hide in and mind his own business. I’m thinking the only way to keep the Tandanus and have a community tank is to only keep it with non aggressive fish. Trying to get some large Archers and a Bullrout to go in with it. Not sure if the Cod may work then. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Can anyone suggest what natives would work well with a 27cm Tandanus? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. I currently have a Eheim 600 filled with 2/3 of Seachem Matrix on my 4x2x2. I only have one 21cm Coal Grunter in the tank. Due to work commitments it has been 3 weeks since the last water change. I always do a 50% water change. My nitrates are now through the roof at at least 80ppm. I normally do a water change every week. Regardless, I still seem to always be at the higher end of the nitrate levels. I have considered upgrading to a Eheim 1500 or Fluval FX6. Would upgrading to a larger canister filter help keep the nitrates down provided I use around 2/3 Seachem Matrix in it? From what I have read about the Seachem Matrix, it's meant to allow anaerobic bacteria to grow inside the media to remove the nitrates. However, a large cannister has a high flow rate which means it wouldn't be very efficient at this process which means the upgrade to a larger filter may not make much difference and be a waste of money. What's everyone's thoughts?
  15. So I've sealed up the o-ring area with lots of o-ring grease and it's been going for over a couple of weeks with no leaks. The product used is a non-petroleum based o-ring grease called Doustgrease Anti-Wear Grease bought from Bunnings. I use this on all aquarium pump and tap seals to extend their life. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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