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About sharknado

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  1. big man right here everyone look using a net - check bragging about killing fish - check can't wait to hear the excuses for this appalling behaviour.
  2. I know jack shit about building tanks but just from reading what you said and having a 5ft 10mm myself tank I'd say nothing wrong with 12mm .. I think 15mm would only become necessary if you were going 65cm+ on the height.. edit: I missed the whole braceless bit ... don't think I'd be game to go braceless above 4ft shallow but if I had to defo at LEAST 15mm. It might cost a few hundred more upfront but how many thousands in damage if the silicone doesn't hold? That calculator probably assumes correct bracing. IMO 6ft braceless is kinda ..insane
  3. that's beautiful but please ....can you move tanks 1 & 2 closer together and close that damn gap that's triggering my ocd while you're at it ..tank 2 needs more lighting on the rhs lol
  4. good riddance ..arrogant staff and dead/diseased stock everytime I went
  5. A number of factors not least of which a lot of fish are territorial and having extra length helps in that regard. Also 4ft gives you the owner a larger viewing window to actually enjoy the fish. It's not all about volume of water. Also depends entirely on the fish .. if you're keeping small tropical fish like tetras, then get whatever fits your decor the best. If you have african cichlids then you need the longest tank with the most vol you can manage..
  6. The canister I was eyeing for this was the Sunsun 603b which has the pump mounted on the outside and it's only <4W from what I recall so I don't think overheating will be an issue. 50-100lph flow isn't nothing either ..thats still a fair amount of water/cooling I reckon Yes it's an API test kit - can you recommend another brand ? I've tested my mates tank with this same kit and the result was < 10ppm and he uses an UGF and NEVER vaccums. Tested my tap water (0ppm) too so I dont think it my kit thats just showing high nitrates all the time but it would be cool to try a different brand especially if the process is faster and/or easier ie. doesnt require all the shaking.. I'm using NLS AlgaeMax and feed twice a day what they can eat in under 1min without any of the stuff falling to ground etc I've just stuffed 3l of Seachem Pond Matrix in my main canister hoping the much larger rocks will allow for anaerobic bacteria to survive deeper inside the rocks
  7. my concern has switched to the byproduct(s) of the anaerobic process ie hydrogen sulfide ...need to research just how much of an issue this would be with SOME constant flow
  8. I think the whole putting ressure on motors by restricting flow might be a bit of a myth and/or does not apply to these erlectro magnetic motos with magnetic impellers ..from what I've read in a few places anyway, thats why most canister have built in valve to restrict flow
  9. Ok long story short, I have a 200l malawi tank that's been established for a long time but recently noticed that my nitrates are through the roof (80) This despite: - twice daily vaccuming of all the solid waste using an eheim quickvac (all the poop ..collects in one deadspot for easy removal) - weekly wc of between 30-50% - monthly canister clean It's an Aquis 1250 s2 canister with plenty of media and sponges but it's a nitrate factory. Now my research leads me to believe that I probably have very little if any anaerobic bacteria (the kind that consumes nitrates and lives in oxygen-free/deprived environment) because the flow of my canister is about 600lph (it's rated at 1400lph but I measured the real output). For example, Seachem claim their De-Nitrate (miniature version of the matrix bio media) is excellent for anaerobic bacteria as long as the flow is < 200 lph. So obviously not gonna work with my main canister. So the plan, so far, is to install a 2nd small inexpensive canister such as the Ocellaris 400 (about $40 on special), fill it up with the bio media and restrict the flow using a valve or perhaps just excessive floss material until it flows < 200lph or preferrably 50-100lph. That should be the ideal environment for anaerobic bacteria. Can anyone spot any flaws in my plan ? The only thing that worries me (a little) is restricting the flow sufficiently .. Like I said I'd like it to be under 100lph, preferrably 50 or so. Just enough so it's not completely stagnant and a hydrogen sulfide bomb
  10. you should be able to buff the watermarks out ...buy a decent orbital buffer and look up best method to buff water marks from glass, shouldn't be that hard
  11. Yeah I've decided to leave it alone as all the mbuna are grazing on it throughout the day and being a deep purple colour it actually looks quite nice .. Interesting regarding the blue light because I've had the blue light in addition to the white on at the same time just because it looks better (more "marine" ..lol) but I might leave the blue light off for a week or 2 and see what that does if anything.
  12. A bit of googling tells me it's BBA... apparently sometimes it comes in purple. Think I'm gonna leave it as its not an eye sore, unless of course it becomes detrimental to the fishes health. Might chuck in a couple of Siamese Algae Eaters and see what they reckon. Hopefully the oscar doesn't eat them first
  13. Being a new tank (to me) I never noticed the growth of this purple algae ..I thought it was part of the artificial reef decor. But then today I looked at a photo of when I first got the tank ...and it's not there.. I bought the tank established with a bunch of cichlids and 1200lph cannister. The filter was fully gunked up (probably never cleaned in the last couple of years that the previous owner had it) so I gave that a good clean when I first got it and put in some fresh seachem matrix on top of existing ceramic and sponges etc. I think the growth of this algae accelerated since I put in seachem phosguard and purigen in the cannister a couple of weeks ago. I got the phosguard because I kept getting diatoms on the glass ..I believe I have lots of silicates in my tap water. Nitrates were through the roof before the phosguard/purigen but now seem 20-30 which is oK I suppose and then diatoms are barely appearing. But WTF is this purple algae and what;s causing it to grow out of control? I dont even mind the 'look' of it but I'm a bit worried that it might eventually starve the water of oxygen. How do you clean it? How do you prevent it coming back? I see my cobalt blue trying to graze on this crap but I dont know if he's getting any of it off ..he certainly isnt making a dent
  14. Also check the KH/GH and PH of the tank ... african cichlids need higher PH and hard water so if your water has lost its hardness and PH has crashed that could explain why they're dropping like flies
  15. It could be a virus/parasite of some sort that the cichlids are prone to where as the others aren't. Try isolating them if you have a spare tank and treat with some anti biotics / anti parasite meds. It really could be anything ..like I said initially a simple aerosol near the tank could have dropped a bunch of nasty chemicals in there. Generally speaking when you have sick fish and dont know the cause .. do frequent water changes until they start getting better. Just use correct temperature water and correct amount of dechlor every time.
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