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About sharknado

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  1. sharknado

    10 X 2.5 x 3 set up for Sale

    yeah awesome price I agree but it'll probably cost at least twice as much to move the thing :/
  2. sharknado

    Show us your ferals

    big man right here everyone look using a net - check bragging about killing fish - check can't wait to hear the excuses for this appalling behaviour.
  3. sharknado

    Tropheus sp Red Moliro (fry)

    can you pm me which shop bought the 8cm ones I'll go buy one off them
  4. sharknado

    Tropheus sp Red Moliro (fry)

    even the 6-8cm ones?
  5. sharknado

    Tropheus sp Red Moliro (fry)

    you coming to the gold coast by any chance
  6. I know jack shit about building tanks but just from reading what you said and having a 5ft 10mm myself tank I'd say nothing wrong with 12mm .. I think 15mm would only become necessary if you were going 65cm+ on the height.. edit: I missed the whole braceless bit ... don't think I'd be game to go braceless above 4ft shallow but if I had to defo at LEAST 15mm. It might cost a few hundred more upfront but how many thousands in damage if the silicone doesn't hold? That calculator probably assumes correct bracing. IMO 6ft braceless is kinda ..insane
  7. that's beautiful but please ....can you move tanks 1 & 2 closer together and close that damn gap that's triggering my ocd while you're at it ..tank 2 needs more lighting on the rhs lol
  8. sharknado

    aquarium warehouse labrador

    good riddance ..arrogant staff and dead/diseased stock everytime I went
  9. sharknado

    3 foot verse 4

    A number of factors not least of which a lot of fish are territorial and having extra length helps in that regard. Also 4ft gives you the owner a larger viewing window to actually enjoy the fish. It's not all about volume of water. Also depends entirely on the fish .. if you're keeping small tropical fish like tetras, then get whatever fits your decor the best. If you have african cichlids then you need the longest tank with the most vol you can manage..
  10. The canister I was eyeing for this was the Sunsun 603b which has the pump mounted on the outside and it's only <4W from what I recall so I don't think overheating will be an issue. 50-100lph flow isn't nothing either ..thats still a fair amount of water/cooling I reckon Yes it's an API test kit - can you recommend another brand ? I've tested my mates tank with this same kit and the result was < 10ppm and he uses an UGF and NEVER vaccums. Tested my tap water (0ppm) too so I dont think it my kit thats just showing high nitrates all the time but it would be cool to try a different brand especially if the process is faster and/or easier ie. doesnt require all the shaking.. I'm using NLS AlgaeMax and feed twice a day what they can eat in under 1min without any of the stuff falling to ground etc I've just stuffed 3l of Seachem Pond Matrix in my main canister hoping the much larger rocks will allow for anaerobic bacteria to survive deeper inside the rocks
  11. my concern has switched to the byproduct(s) of the anaerobic process ie hydrogen sulfide ...need to research just how much of an issue this would be with SOME constant flow
  12. I think the whole putting ressure on motors by restricting flow might be a bit of a myth and/or does not apply to these erlectro magnetic motos with magnetic impellers ..from what I've read in a few places anyway, thats why most canister have built in valve to restrict flow
  13. Ok long story short, I have a 200l malawi tank that's been established for a long time but recently noticed that my nitrates are through the roof (80) This despite: - twice daily vaccuming of all the solid waste using an eheim quickvac (all the poop ..collects in one deadspot for easy removal) - weekly wc of between 30-50% - monthly canister clean It's an Aquis 1250 s2 canister with plenty of media and sponges but it's a nitrate factory. Now my research leads me to believe that I probably have very little if any anaerobic bacteria (the kind that consumes nitrates and lives in oxygen-free/deprived environment) because the flow of my canister is about 600lph (it's rated at 1400lph but I measured the real output). For example, Seachem claim their De-Nitrate (miniature version of the matrix bio media) is excellent for anaerobic bacteria as long as the flow is < 200 lph. So obviously not gonna work with my main canister. So the plan, so far, is to install a 2nd small inexpensive canister such as the Ocellaris 400 (about $40 on special), fill it up with the bio media and restrict the flow using a valve or perhaps just excessive floss material until it flows < 200lph or preferrably 50-100lph. That should be the ideal environment for anaerobic bacteria. Can anyone spot any flaws in my plan ? The only thing that worries me (a little) is restricting the flow sufficiently .. Like I said I'd like it to be under 100lph, preferrably 50 or so. Just enough so it's not completely stagnant and a hydrogen sulfide bomb
  14. you should be able to buff the watermarks out ...buy a decent orbital buffer and look up best method to buff water marks from glass, shouldn't be that hard
  15. sharknado

    What sort of algae is this???

    Yeah I've decided to leave it alone as all the mbuna are grazing on it throughout the day and being a deep purple colour it actually looks quite nice .. Interesting regarding the blue light because I've had the blue light in addition to the white on at the same time just because it looks better (more "marine" ..lol) but I might leave the blue light off for a week or 2 and see what that does if anything.