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    Tweed Heads
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  1. I did as discussed and cut the light down to 1pm - 8pm only. I still have 2 fluoro tubes running during that time. The growth is continuing to get worse - see pics taken yesterday. Do you guys still think it is too much light? Is there anything else I can do to try to get it under control? I can completely empty the tank again but feel it will likely just happen again. I could replace the sand substrate with something else like shell grit if this might help. I had read a long article about how the depth of sand can affect the difference bacteria which colonise the substrate and can impact on the whole balance.
  2. I'll try 1-8pm for a while and see how it goes. Thanks again.
  3. Thanks for the advice. Will cut the lights for a few days as advised. When I start them back up again, would going to just one fluoro tube for the same hours provide the same effect of light reduction, or you think better to have less hours in the day with any lights? Our living room is quite a dark room and its hard to see anything in the tank without the lights on (but also hard to see anything when there's brown crap all over everything!). If I need to cut down the hours I will just turn them on later in the afternoon and evening when we are around more to see.
  4. Hi. I recently set up a brackish tank with water from the canal in front of my house. The water is not dirty, it is off the main arm of the Tweed River and very tidal. Twice now I have had the same thing happen. The tank starts out crystal clear once the filter (Eheim classic 350) clears the water initially. Then after about a week, I get this brown stuff taking over the tank. I tried emptying the tank and washing everything and leaving it to dry in the sun for a couple of days but it just came back. The photo below is from about a week ago when it was just starting. Now it is all of the sides as well and makes the tank look filthy. This is only after 2 weeks of setting it up. It has small bubbles when it is in the initial stages so i'm thinking some kind of cyanobacteria? Is this a common battle with a brackish setup? I have read that in freshwater tanks it can be caused by too much light and/or ammonia. I have 2 fluorescent lights over the tank that are on from sunrise to 9pm at night. I do not have many fish in the tank at this stage and don't think I am over feeding. Any ideas of what I can do to stop this happening?
  5. Hi, I have just bought a Eheim 350 canister filter for my 200L brackish water tank. I have never owned a canister filter before. I didn't purchase the Eheim media and so I need to get media of some sort. The filter came only with the coarse and fine filter pads. I notice that the instructions recommend having a small section of the ceramic rings at the bottom and then the other Eheim pro media type above it. I already have some ceramic rings that came with a tank which I can put in the bottom. What is a good economical choice to fill up the rest of the canister? Lava rock from Bunnings? Also I notice from looking on some forums that people have other ways of layering the media ranging from only foam pads through to only one type of media. Is there any reason to deviate from the instruction manual as described above?
  6. Thanks John. I didn't realise these were a viable option for larger tanks. I don't really know anything about them as everyone seems to sell and recommend the canister type in the shops. Can you suggest a particular model or a link to any info on them? Would that also mean I would have to avoid sand as a base and maybe use crushed coral or something?
  7. Hi, I am setting up a brackish water tank. It is about 200L. I have decided to go with a canister filter and it seems that the Eheim Classic filters tick the boxes of being long-lasting, quiet and low power consumption. I see that the 250 size states that is can be used up to a 250L tank even thought the flow rate is much lower than many other brands of filters rated for the same size tank. I just wanted confirmation from other users that I will be ok with this size filter . Unlike some brands, there is quite a jump in price up to the next (350) size.
  8. Good idea. I might pre-drill and put a couple of bugle head screws in each corner offset to the nails just for piece of mind.
  9. My tank is not drilled for a sump. I have an open style tank stand and it will be in our living room so we will see whatever is under it. I might fit some curtains down the track. When you say tegular water change I wonder how frequently I'd have to do this vs having a canister filter with good substrate. Its not a huge job - I have a pump and run hose down to the canal but also not something i'd want to have to do every week. I was looking at an Eheim classic 350. It only has 620LPH flow rate which might be pushing it for approx 250L tank but they are supposed to be quiet and I thought it would be a happy medium if I can augment with some live rock in the tank. I would also appreciate some advice on what substrate might be good for putting in the tank. Originally I was going to just put sand in there until I learned why it is useful to support a colony of bacteria etc in the tank too to help with filtration. For the canister filter I was thinking about using pumice that I can collect from the beach around here. It floats though don't know if that is a problem.
  10. You are spot on mate. I just looked and I had not noticed the putty before. Do you think it is necessary to put another cross piece in the middle or just fiine to use it as is?
  11. Thanks. I might put some bracing it just for piece of mind. I'm quite surprised it is glued together. Bracing would only be supported by the timber running between the corner uprights which are glued on. I'm wondering whether to either screw these side pieces on at each corner, and/or add two more uprights halfway along so it has 6 legs.
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