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Woodypoint

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About Woodypoint

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    Woody Point
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    Queensland

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  1. I'm using tap water. Our tap water on the Redcliffe Peninsular comes out at about 21°C and unfortunately currently contains about 20.00ppm nitrites, this varies depending upon where they source water from. I treat my entire tank with prime when doing a WC which binds the nitrites and within 6 hours the nitrites have been removed by the filter bacteria and read 0.00ppm. My tank temperature is 28°C so not sure if I should be heating the new water to get it to 28°C or if 15% WC at 21°C would render that necessary? I'm doing a WC later today, 5 days have passed since my last WC and nitrates currently read 5.00ppm so nitrates seem to be increasing very slowly. Update; completed a 15% WC, directly from tap, dosed with prime and temperature of tank moved from 28°C to 27°C, all is well.
  2. Thanks for the guidance, I visited a very knowledgeable member of this forum today and was advised that with such low nitrate levels I could safely perform 2 x +/-10% water changes per week. He advised that when my discus fish get larger I would have to ramp the %age up. That advice sounds good to me, a 10% water change is easily manageable.
  3. Sorry, if this question has been asked before, I'm sure it has, but I can't find an answer through the search. I wish to determine at what point I should perform a water change in my predominantly discus 6x2x2 tank. I'm running my tank with 15 x 5-7cm discus plus 6 x sterbai corydoras and 3 x L333 plecos, my tank is heavily planted. I performed a 50% water change 3 days ago and tested the water a few hours later, nitrates read 5.00ppm. Now three days later nitrates have not changed and continue at 5.00ppm, possibly a bit lower, if that is possible. Ammonia and nitrites are, of course 0.00ppm.There is not a heavy build up of fish poop on the substrate. I have been feeding regularly to stimulate growth. I am certainly not against water changing, I have a pretty efficient regime that takes about 30-45 minutes and being retired have no problems performing it. However I certainly don't want to do a water change for the sake of doing a water change. Please could I have some advice. Thanks John
  4. I'm assuming that Sidthemonkey loaches are Dwarf Chain Loaches? I've seen reports that these are too boisterous to be kept with Discus, is this not true and if so in my 6x2x2 how many would you recommend? As regards Peppermint Bristlenose vs whiptails do Peppermint adults tend to lose their beauty appeal as they age, I've heard they do although this may be mitigated by my dark substrate, my wife loves Peppermints I'd have a tough time talking her out of these, that is the only species she has chosen!
  5. Hi Steve, thanks for putting me right on price posting, I've edited my post, sorry, hope there is no offence. Yes. my tank, 6x2x2 is the showpiece in our lounge, I'm also having Cardinal Tetras, Rummy Nose Tetras, Sterbai Corys, Peppermint Bristlenose and Clown Loaches in the tank. I agree BB tanks work better for discus but I love the planted tank appearance. Cheers John
  6. Thanks for all the messages received from Jason, John, Ray and Currimundi, I feel most welcome. As regards where to buy from, I've received some names and am following up, I guess the secret is to stay with trustworthy suppliers. The biggest challenge may be to find suppliers with the correct size fish. It appears that many suppliers have 8cm+ fish because that is where the better money is ie if they sell a 5cm fish for say $xx they can rather feed it up a bit until they have an 8cm fish where they can sell it for $xxx, or about twice the price. Anyway I have a few good leads that I will follow over the next few weeks and should be able to stock my tank bit by bit, preferably with as few suppliers as possible.
  7. Thanks, I agree with everything you have said, indeed it does have to suit one's situation. I really like the idea of a continuous drip in & displacement out but unfortunately our living conditions and placement of the tank make that a non-starter. I appreciate that the speed of conversion from Nitrite to Nitrate will be rapid and won't require binding but it provides a fall back position if things go awry. My tank is and will continue to be heavily planted so hopefully Nitrates will not mount too quickly, the water changes I referred to are a worst case scenario. Even at the high end water changes I would only use 1.1 litres of Prime per annum, I buy a 2 litre bottle at $72 off Amazon so $40/annum which is very cost effective. This does not take the cost of water into account but the RO cost plus replacement membranes and carbon prefilter, 3 x water etc would be a much more expensive option. So yes, your advice is very helpful in helping me make up my mind, Prime plus water changes will be my go-to method.
  8. Thanks for your response, appreciated. Yes, I've been asking around at various places. I spoke to Ross at Arcy Aquariums (formerly Living Reef Aquariums). Following the discussion I think my solution will be My tank holds +/-500 litres of water, I'll do +/-160 litre (ie 1/3) water change every +/-4 days. Either I'll treat entire tank, including new water, with Prime or alternately I'll only treat new water, before placing it in the tank with Prime. I think whole tank is better. The Prime will ensure that the Nitrites are "bound" and negated for 24-48 hours. The Nitrogen cycle in my aquarium is complete, Nitrites are at 0.0ppm so I know there is an established bacteria community in my tank. Assuming the Nitrites of the new water are at 2.0ppm the Nitrites of the entire tank, including new water, will average out at about 0.7ppm With a decent bacteria community already established in the tank the Nitrites will be eliminated well before the Prime stops being effective. This solution seems like a good way forward. Another possible solution, after talking to an advisor from FSA (Filter Systems Australia) is the purchase and use of a 50GPD AQUARIUM REVERSE OSMOSIS FILTER SYSTEM, this is available from FSA for $206. Apparently the use of an R/O system would mean that I no longer need to use Prime at all? I don't know much about R/O water. As my problem is confined to only periods when Unity Water supply high Nitrite water I don't believe that there is really a need for the R/O filter so the outlined solution is the one I will stich with for now. I would actually do the Prime treatment as a matter of course irrespective of the incoming Nitrites.
  9. Hi Jason, I'm looking around, I'm wanting fish in the 5-7cm range, I prefer to buy small and watch my fish grow. I got 3 Blue Angels from BudH, Holistic Discus on FB, last Sunday, great quality. Would even go down to Gold Coast, saw some stunning fish down there earlier this year. Any suggestions? Cheers John
  10. Hi All, I've recently started up my 6" x 2" x 2" tank where my main focus will be a range of discus plus cardinals/rummy nose tetra/sterbai corys/clown loaches. I have successfully cycled my tank and introduced some of the discus and the corys, they look great. My query in on the local supply of water by Unity Water to my home in Woody Point, Moreton Bay. I noticed at the start of my cycling exercise that I immediately had Nitrites of 2.0ppm, measured on my new API Freshwater Master Kit. I was surprised as there was no way that bacteria had managed to convert Ammonia to Nitrites in only 2 hours. I tested the water directly out of the tap and the water gave a reading of 2.0ppm Nitrites. This was subsequently confirmed by my LFS. I have been in touch with Unity Water and they refuse to discuss their water parameters but directed me to a page on their website that states that in our area their Nitrite level has been a maximum of 1.66ppm in their 12-month reporting period, I assume this is correct. Although my tank now has Nitrites at 0.00ppm I am afraid of performing 30-50% water changes which I've always done twice weekly as I will be introducing a high level of Nitrites but I don't see any alternative. I could mitigate the problem by dosing the tank with Prime in order to "bind" the Nitrites until the bacteria in my filter is able to convert to Nitrates, but assume there is a better solution. Anyone with a similar issue, advice from those more knowledgeable would be appreciated, thanks?
  11. Hi All, my name is John. Thanks for accepting me on the forum. I have been keeping tropical fish on and off for the last 50 years after winning a few guppies at a fete when I was at primary school. We have recently returned to our unit at Woody Point in the Moreton Bay area of Queensland. I have begun to resurrect my 6" x 2" x 2" tank. The tank is planted and the primary focus is going to be about 15 Discus, these beautiful fish will be accompanied by Cardinal Tetras, Rummy Nose Tetras, Sterbai Corys, Peppermint Bristlenose and Clown Loaches. I'm very excited to get my tank up and going and look forward to being a member of the forum. I am currently struggling with Nitrites in the water supplied by Unity Water, details are given in a separate post in hopefully the correct area of the forum.
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