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  1. I have some of those same rhodactis in my tank, they can handle a fair bit of light, the more light they are in some of the little tips will actually go white, looks quite cool with the green base....better than the standard green base ones anyway.
  2. First pic is not real clear but I would say leptastrea and second is defiantly rhodactis as African-cichlids said. leptastrea will defiantly respond to reef roids!! As African-cichlids said, super hardy basically give it some light and it will thrive...not much will harm it except maybe leaving it out of water!!
  3. Hate to say it but if it's that far in the hammer it's dead... I would say the hammer will probably spit it out, could be a bit big to fit in its mouth. If it does spit it out, remove it.
  4. Is that tank and stand still for sale mate...

  5. Yes SG will needs to be within a certain tolerance. Fish have a larger tolerance than corals, fish can handle hypo salinity better, but again only if it is shifted very slowly. That being said the normal range is 1.024 -1.026. 1.025 being middle of the range and an appropriate target. Do you have an auto top up or is it manual?? Also in my opinion yes remove the wool completely. I would recommend buying a refracometer ASAP. They are relatively cheap and very accurate as long as they are calibrated. (RO water). 1 problem I have found with the swinging arm type hydrometer is that if you don't wash them in fresh water salt will build up around the arm and cause it to stick. Depending what the SG is yes that could be it but my guess is it is still too overstocked, (if SG was causeing deaths, you corals would also be suffering) if this is not a concern now it will be in the very near future. Sort the SG first, if this is out a fair bit that needs to be sorted first and depending where it is moved slowly. Then the fish need to find a new home. Marine is different to fresh water stuff in the fact that you can't keep as many fish in a certain size tank and a lot of natural stuff comes into play as in "most" of the fish we keep (95%) are wild caught and are not used to captivity. Just because a damsel will fit in a 4' tank dosent mean it will be ok in there, put in another fish that wants to compete for territory and all hell can break loose, in my opinion half of the damsel fish sold in shops are no good as mixed reef companions. In the wild different species may never even see each other in their life then all of a sudden they have to share 6" with each other. Comparability is a major factor for a happy and successful reef tank, and so is the way/ order they are introduced to a tank. Before the first fish is added to a marine tank ALOT of time MUST be taken to sort the correct fish you want to keep and the order they will go in. This is probably the single biggest factor that a lot of new people miss because it is so hard to choose and they might not think how important it is. As they say patients is a vertue, and in marine impulse buying will cost you time and money. Most of the fish you see in a fish shop probably aren't going to go in your tank together. You spoke of reef secrets in mermaid, Darren and Matt are an excellent sorce for this information, I know Darren and he will not sell you a fish just because you think is looks cool, he has the fishes well being in mind, in saying that it is still your decision. 1. SG needs be be sorted 2. A stock list (do heaps of research on what you want and if it will go with everything else you want), remember if you want corals, that will have an impact on what fish you also want. I would love a flame angle, a coral beauty and lemon peel!!! All georgous fish but they will not be compatible together (yes people have kept them together but more people have not) and I also keep corals so I don't want want them to be lunch!! Once you have a fish list keep what fish you have on that list and get rid of the rest, this needs to be done ASAP as nobody will take a sick or injured fish! Or dead for that matter and that is what I don't like seeing, I understand you have spent a lot of money, that does not concern anyone on this forum, the life of a fish does when it could be prevented! That is the responsibility you have in correct animal husbandry. ( in saying that I have also lost fish and im sure in time i will loose more, and I think most aquarists have, but that is why I hate to see others make the same mistakes I have, I am always learing from mistakes I have made and better ways of doing things to avoids mistakes in the future, just as you are now. Sorry if I offend you) I would really consider speaking with the fish shop that sold you all those fish in the first place and either ask for a refund or an exchange. I don't know the whole story nor do I need to (might be other factors) but if someone sold an emporeor, a flame, 4 clowns(different species) and a dragons wrasse plus countless others for a 4' and didn't ask questions then they do not have the best wishes for the fish at all because that is just heading down a path of failure. Again this is all just my opinion, I strongly suggest seeking others input, forums/articals and fish shops all have this information.
  6. Ph shift of .2 is normal, what time have you taken ph each time, ph will rise and fall due to photosynthesis from day to night, just keep monitoring this at the same time during the day. Ammonia is spiking due to overstocking, remove dead fish ASAP. And perform water changes, probably about 50% not to much at one time as u can shock everything, check again, you need to remove ammonia before it becomes critical and kills more!! Also dosing as per bottle of prime will help, water changes are the best way. I would cut back on feeding as well, BUT be careful it's a fine line because as your ammonia rises fish stress, in turn they go off the food, when they go off the food, uneaten food adds to the ammonia/ nitrates BUT the best defense against stress is the food they eat, so if they eat the food, great feed them but not as much as u normally would if they go off their food, any food you put in and it hits the bottom, immediate siphon it out. Your choice of food is critical as well, frozen foods tend to pollute more but are generally more palatable, my preference is a good quality pellet in these times as they pollute less, are easily seen to remove uneaten food and are garlic enriched!! Tastier and good for immune!! Also Ca, Kh and Mg are not as important at this stage, your water changes will sort that out, no need to add something your probably going to pull out anyway, also from what I can see your corals are LPS and won't need perfectly stable conditions. Remember this is just my opinion. As you stated never take one price of advise as "the correct way" or "the best" not even mine, read what everyone else says as I might have missed something or didn't consider something. MASA is also an Australian based forum and has some amazingly knowledgeable people.
  7. Ok, I might have this wrong or maybe you have a huge storage but at the moment with all the rain we have been having the last thing you want to be doing is using natural sea water you have collected. I use NSW and if the rain was to stop tomorrow for good I would NOT collect water for about 2-3 weeks. Reason why is everything from the mountains, roads and upstream is coming down the rivers into the ocean even on high tide with the run in it is still bad news!!! Just my opinion. What is in the reactor? I'm I assuming its a phosphate removing media? Which one and how long has it been in there? Reason I ask you appear to have a Cyanobacteria outbreak mainly on the substrate. As other have said there is WWAAYYY to many fish in that tank and they are not compatible. Bioload is too large for an unsumped tank. The stock list that Donny gave tank 1 is a great start personally I would have only 1-2 gobies in there and that would be tops as far as live stock goes, yes they appear to be anthias and from what I can tell dispar would be my guess. Remember these guys like small feeds regularly, and what goes in must come out! Your biggest problem will be nitrates!! I would be running your skimmer 24hrs that would the best way to reduce your waste before it turns into nitrates, make sure you tune it well!! Even run it a little wetter if you have too. Having canister filters is a good filter but will house loads of nitrate producing poop, you must clean this well and regularly. Monitor your nitrates regularly I mean 1-2 times a week if it starts to creep up, check your canister and do a water change, in my opinion live rock should be your first line of filtration, if you have sponges either clean them at least once a week or remove them all together. As far a your corals go frog spawn and hammers are "toxic" and will release sweepers at night, I think a couple are a little large and close together, watch for signs of "battle" they will sting each other to try and kill off the other for space!! Also as far as your test kits go I find salifert are the most accurate. And Hanna for phosphates. Right now your parameters seam ok(SG a little low for my likes 1.024 - 1.026 preferable) so while fish are small and params are good I would sort your stock list now, sell, trade, give away what you need to to get it right before it becomes an issue. Again just my opinion. Also I think adding anything to your ro is unnessasary, however adding prime at this stage to your tank will help with free ammonia due to bioload, but so will water changes!! Hope this helps out
  8. I will try and add some valuable input but would like to know the following, What is your tank size LxWxH? What is your current stock (not including corals) also going off the pics, a bit hard to say but at a guess I'd say unidentified corals are gonipora What are your current parameters, today? What test kits do you use? What is your maintainer regime? Water changes? Top up? Is salt water ASW or NSW? Do u dose anything? What is in the reactor? All info from today. It might have been in previous post but need current details also how is your skimmer running?
  9. Hi all, just a quick question. Lately I have noticed that my sailfin pleco ( roughly 30cm) seams to just be swimming up and down on the right side of the tank with his nose against the glass and seams to be wearing a flat spot on his nose. He has only just started doing this as of about 4 weeks ago, I rescaped the tank about 4-5 months back and was just wondering what may be the cause? I have not checked water parameters as nothing has really changed. Other factors that I can think of, there is only 2 active fish in the tank 2 x albino pindani, also have 4 cuckoo cats but hardly see them until feeding time. I took the wood out (This may be it as there is now no roughage for him to graze on, I do feed him regularly though. The tank is a 4x1.5x1.5 and has a fine sand bottom with large river rocks but has heaps of room for him to swim and lie down. Before I rescaped I had a heap more rock in there with a large piece of wood in there that he just used to lie on the whole time. Is this tank to small for a pleco this big?? Does he need more friends/wood/swim space??? Is it a camoflage thing being that the bottom is white sand and rocks with no dark brown wood to lie on?? He did use to do this in the old tank I had him in but I thought it was due to the fact the tank was to small (just over 2 foot long and just under 2 foot high and about 1.5 foot deep) but once in the 4 foot he was fine!! Any thoughts would be great. Thanks in advance
  10. Thats what I was thinking....well I said some flesh but I guess its that bit. How does this happen as there is nothing in the tank that picks on him??? and I am assuming its euthanasia time for remedy (its doesnt look like the kinda thing that can grow back)
  11. Ok so here is the fish in question, I have circled the area where the bone/ligiment section is protruding and this is where the head seperates/food falls out!! Thanks again
  12. Oops sorry, I'm used to working in mm.... and fish is usually cm, guess half my brain was working. So just to clarify 12cm or 120mm. Will have a go at a photo tonight.
  13. Thanks for your input Dead fish and frinkie. Ok so this is interesting, I just feed the fish and he did eat, however of the 4-5 pellets he ate, 2 of them fell out..........not from his mouth!!! Now I have never really examined fish too closely(anatomically) but I think there should be some sort of tissue to prevent this from happening?? Or maybe where the bottom of the head should connect keeps food in. Again this fish is not under any signs of stress at all which really puzzles me, and he did not shy away from trying to eat (if i had a dislocated jaw the last thing I would be doing is trying to eat). Im not saying that it isnt part of the jaw I am just trying to get a better understanding of what is happening/happened. I should add that this fish is a mature adult around the 120cm+ size and is only housed with 2 juvenile albino pindani, 5 cuckoo cats and a salfin pleco and he is the most dominant fish and does to alot of chasing (never any mouth wars). Thanks again.
  14. sorry yes, african cichlid Aulonocara jacobfreibergi "eureka red", it just seams to be behind the actual jaw itself, more like "neck" region or jugular... will try to get a good photo
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