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Everything posted by DeadFishFloating

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  4. You guys are adorable. This is a good old combo of OTS and diatom blooms from our marvelous tapwater. Nothing special or crazy. Old Tank Syndrome The Real Scoop On Brown Algae « Joe Jaworski’s Weblog How to fix? Well first of all, lets put this to numbers. Heck I should try grill ya for more details, would help to know the contents media wise of the cannister and the species of african you keep. buuuuuuuuut its midnight, so numbers it is...... 15 should do it. 1 ) You are feeding NLS to Africans. So you are feeding the most concentrated food available to fish that can starve for a month and not die. Forget instructions amigo, you aint no n00b anymore. Look at ya fish. Drop the feed levels. If they start getting "knife back" or "sunken gut" then they need more food........ but I bet your fish are fat as ****! Look at the fishes eye, thats a good idea for the amount of food to feed each fish. If one misses out, then tough titty. It will make sure it doesnt miss out next time wont it! If you want to feed lots of food, then buy crap food. The idea of spectrum is you feed less, they digest more of it and then crap out less, AND THAT is meant to mean you clean less! But you feed heavy, and you need to clean too much AND its expensive. 2) You need to get accurate nitrate readings AND you need to record them. All this water changing and testing nitrates is pointless IF it is not all being used to become as lazy as possible. So get a syringe and some ro water. A syringe because you need to be accurate! Fill ya test tube with 2.5ml of ro water and 2.5ml of aquarium water. Shake the two reagent bottles GOOD. Then add ya 10 drops of each. Shake test tube. Time ya 5 minutes. Record result. If it says 40ppm, THEN you know its 80ppm. If you add 1ml aquarium water and 4ml ro water..... and test comes back at 40ppm...... then you know you have 200ppm. Basically use dilution with RO water to calculate exactly what you are dealing with here. RECORD ALL TESTS AND WATER CHANGES. 3) Now much of what you are doing is what I would do. EG ~ See the trick is to remove the old bacteria colonys (mulm) and THEN water change. The reason is becuase if there is mulm built up in filters OR gravel....... then the nitrate will "bounce back" after water changes because it is leeching out of these nitrate rich materials. So what you are doing above is awesome....... except the whole "fine white wool" part. Ditch that stuff, you have an otto filter to handle the mechanical filtration. Replace it with a corse blue sponge! 4 ) 30-40 % water changes........... lol lets change that to 50% Its more satisfying. You got 80ppm and ya do a 50% water change = 40ppm. Really its pyschological, but the reality is most Africans can handle it, especially in summer where chilling them is not a risk! You are also using aquastar which is an awesome full featured dechlorinator. Basically double strength prime. So drop 50% of ya water. Throw in ya aquastar for the TOTAL TANK volume. And then fill it with hose, just make sure ya flush out the hot water thats been sitting in hose first. 5) An otto is a crazy good workhorse of a powerhead. Consider buying another cup for it and filling that cup with a media bag containing some macropore. This is one of those cheat moves that will reduce nitrates. It aint to be relied on 100%, but it is handy! Or you can place macropore in a media bag and then into your cannister. 6) As mentioned, gravel vaccum. This could be the mystical nitrate sink we are looking for. If all else fails remove half the sand/gravel. Mulm is harder to remover from gravel then from an otto! 7) Where are the pictures? srsly! I dunno what rocks they are, or have a positive ID on the algae. BUT I suggest perhaps taking rocks out and leaving them in the sun a few days. That should bring them back to white fast enough! 8 ) Keep a look out for big CAE, but dont pay crazy high prices for them! Big CAE are dam jerks, people usually HATE them. Keep ya eye out and you shall find them being given away. They are an awesome algae eater AND they dont need the massive amount of food (nitrates) that a pleco needs. They are also tough enough to tangle with most mbuna. 9 ) look at your lighting. Nitrates + light = algae. Might be easier to cut it down a bit. More light = more algae = more cleaning. 10) Prime/aquastar is basically useless for nitrates. Dont bother using it for that. 11) Its just nitrates lol. 100 less dangerous than ammonia and nitrite! Yea it causes algae blooms but thats an aesthetic problem. Yes it stunts fish and makes them more aggresive.......... buuuuuuuut its an easy fix. Ya just need to work out how much food = how much nitrates. I reccomend getting rid of fish you can bear to be without. That means less fish, less food and less need for dilutions! Dont let fish you dont love make work for ya! 12) Dont fall the trap of just topping up evaporation EVER. Always remove more water before topping up again. The trick is to prevent TDS from concentrating! The solution to pollution is dilution! I like to take the chance to squeeze out the otto into a bucket full, then top up. 13) This is a hobby, not another job. Collect your nitrate test data and your water change data. I love customers that bring data like that along for a chat at AOA, or post it up here. Then ya get tailored advice amigo and not all this guessing and interrogation! no one wants more than a water change a week! better to do one each 2 weeks! So we work out how much ya can feed, how much ya need to change, to KEEP IT UNDER THE TARGET AND TO KEEP FISH IN GOOD CONDITION. I like to try keep below 40ppm. 14) ya know those fry saver things? You can fill them with duckweed. Duckweed monsters nitrates. As it grows ya harvest it and remove from the tank. Bioaccumulating nitrates into solids like plant leaves, well it sure makes it easier to remove! 15) have ya watched Django Unchained yet? its not bad hey. Just remember algae dont kill fish, just looks like crap. And africans are pretty tough vs nitrates. I salute your efforts against their excessive concentration, and assure you, the war is winnable. But if you decide its time to get lazy, then srsly get a larger tank! More water = more dilution = more time between water changes. Remember less fish = more time between water changes. less poo + more water = less water changes. Maths sucks but if ya want to truely be lazy...... it has its uses!
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  7. A sad day comrades, but also a day to look back on one who gave so much to pet fish. Those of you with an eheim cannister, go give it a gentle pat for being a loyal friend. You did good Gunther, and for what its worth....... I still love your classics. Its not often an inventor nails it first go. Imagine if the first person to build an aircraft built a Cessna 190!!! Thats the equivilent of what Mr Eheim achieved. RIP amigo. Max respec'
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  9. protip ~ dont sell any females. They will likely sell for around $50 each per male in lfs @ 7cm. Doesnt seem like much until you consider that you likely control the whole market and will continue to do so unless you sell females. I would work on setting up an albino colony. Interested in seeing what a white crane male would look like. Keep in mind, lfs may not give you much $ if they notice you sell online to people for the same price as you sell to them! Consider getting in contact with a few larger cichlid lfs and see if they are interested at buying. A quick google found me a picture of a male in full colour.
  10. Worth a lot more than a normal red empress, albino taiwan reef fetch a pretty penny. Are there any other albino fish in with your colony? Only worth $$ if they are not hybrids with another species. picture below is an albino taiwan reef.
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  12. Generally clean up crew are just as sensative to water conditions as most fish. I would let the mini cycle happen (bacteria) and then let the algae bloom happen and then add cuc. You want the algae bloom so theres food for the CUC, otherwise they wont do well. Keep in mind you want to pick and choose critters for clean up. Maybe a trochus or two for glass and rock algae cleaning, a stromb for cleaning sand, a lawnmower blenny for hair algae. You will get some brittle stars if you buy some fresh porus live rock. I would aim for almost 99% new water, it makes the move less stressful and if you aint gonna test the old water, then you aint risking setting yourself up with 50% weekly water changes for months. But the water needs to have been made up at least 24 hours in advance. Dont mix it in the aquarium, as it will do more harm than good. You have a container to make up 200Litres? Deaths will depend on how high ammonia and nitrite get. Test test test. Remember theres a delay between adding food and it breaking down to ammonia. If you add too much, and create too much ammonia, then you will have to water change to dilute it, so you dont kill corals and other livestock. So see how the ammonia goes without adding mysis, and if after a week theres no sign, then maybe consider buying a lawnmower blenny.... or a mollie. Having something to feed will stress the system nicely. Do you have a test kit for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate? Because if you cant test for those 3, you are going in blind.
  13. Even if you try assemble the liverock perfectly exactly the same AND you dont disturb the sand bed AND you rush everything AND you keep old water.......... you are still going to have some die off. So you should get an ammonia reading without needing to add any mysis. I would test first before adding mysis. I would also be prepared for the tanks water to be disgusting as far as ammonia and phosphate levels go! So if you can prepare some new water at your place and use that to fill the tank, its probably for the best. Really depends on the state of everything.
  14. 150L should be fine for 4 IMHO. I work of 40L per fish, and 150L is only 10L under that. Theres 3 things you can do that will toughen your other fish up nicely. 1) get some aquarium salt in there! A tablespoon per 20L for initial dose, and then that amount for replacement water on changes. Salt in water means fish dont work as hard to keep water out of their body. 2) Whats the pH? as crazy as it sounds goldfish often do better at a higher GH and KH to what you'd expect. 3) look into voogle. Its a different approach to treating fish. The flagyl will wipe out most microbes, good and bad. Voogle works to toughen ya fishes immune system instead. If it keeps happening. Perhaps time to try a different lfs. Perhaps their stock is getting excessively stressed somewhere along the supply chain and this is weakening them.
  15. Aquaclear hangon filters have been the darling of the DIY crowd as far as HOB into refugium conversion goes for like 2 decades now. Do a google search for harpua2002,aquaclear and refugium. Theres even rumours of the official conversion kit coming to Australia for them. Until then though, harpua2002 and hundreds of others show how easy it is. Heck its what people are talking about when ya read "AC70 mod" in a post. http://lh5.ggpht.com/_q0-ZKxitQbk/S47_-NxGvfI/AAAAAAAAAWs/d97pHddHE5I/s800/100_0746.JPG http://lh5.ggpht.com/_q0-ZKxitQbk/S48ACOFJBSI/AAAAAAAAAW4/kUFNDK1JM8k/s800/100_0751.JPG http://lh6.ggpht.com/_q0-ZKxitQbk/S48ANvWwTEI/AAAAAAAAAXA/b2dffNOOQH8/s800/100_0759.JPG
  16. Nice red OB! Looking very nice careful feeding too much hikari red to electric yellows, the astax can make them go a bit brown longterm. I do like africans tanks with the ol' plastic plants in them. Green is a hard colour to get into them most times.
  17. If you understand the reasons we do water changes, including the chemistry and biology of it all........ then you can work around them to some degree. BUT even with aquaponics and tanks with DSB or macroalgae sumps, there are still times when a water change saves the day. My theory is that I like my tanks to always be in the sort of condition where I can have drama happen in my life, and no water changes get done for a month AND I dont take too many cassualties. Because life does throw you curve balls sometimes. Shon its about time you come see my fry tanks. I have made some room to spread things out, but even so........ water changes are needed to fend off death. Just too many fish, fed too many times a day...... I try to keep nitrates below 40ppm for the malawis. Because then they grow fast and are less aggresive. They can handle far far above that, but I try to keep it below. Thing is, I have been reading about reducing nitrates (using microbes, algaes, plants, chemicals and resins) for years now. And I have had a lot of success using various takes on the options available. But I still believe you can keep anything alive with enough water changes. They aint the only way but they are one of the ways that works.
  18. at aoa you just write you are qldaf in shipping instructions or tell staff at register.
  19. Large captive bream in small tanks (less than 1000L) seem to do much better in brackish or full salt. I have seen plenty die in full fresh after a few years, usually what looks like an internal bacterial infection. But ya doubt the pH in those tanks would have been above 7.6, if that. Prob similar to keeping tang cichlids in low pH, its certainly doable for a few years...... but they have much lower resistant to many microbes.
  20. Well HM in theory, but really I am just putting in some dividers in some 6 footer fry growouts. It just so happens that the dividers shall also be the filters.
  21. Just looks like a yellow fin mloto to me. The vary in colouration and body shape a lot depending on age/sex/condition/food. That looks like a young dominant male that has been very well fed indeed. OK so the real reason I guess its a mloto is the dam things have fooled me more in ID's than any other hap lol so odds are this is one too
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