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About jabmel

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  1. Can you put the heaters in the sump instead of the tank
  2. Try garden worms to. They love them. Get some live shrimp. Mostly the jd,s are a bottom feeder. But are picky re food.
  3. I run a 6 ft marine tank. With all the fish and live corals. I have no media in my sump. (I have filter socks and the skimmer in there). overhead filter or canister is ok. (Only put a filter pad in the canister. No noodles or balls. Yep. Set your marine up correctly and all the filter does is remove crap and cycle the water. The main filtration is done by healthy live rock I strongly suggest a hang on skimmer. Save up. They are really a must for a Marine tank Lighting. Again save up. But it will be fine for now. best of luck. The key is water circulation over healthy rock. Put a wave maker in if needed. . I got the spheres at first but they have all been removed. If your not doing fish or coral (or only a few cheap fish). Buy a basic test kit and keep an eye on the no2 no3 and po4. Cheers ben.
  4. Hi If you are talking salt -and I think you are. Salt fish do not develop white spot. They either have it or catch it. Cleaner wrasse can actually try and remove it. It is not a disease like with fresh water it is a living parasite (the two are completely separate) You need a QT tank and all new fish need to be in there and healthy for at least 4 weeks prior to adding to a community tank. White spot can exist in the gills of fish and not be seen. Buy a fish and getting it home can lower the fishes defence system and the white spot can spread over the fish and to others. You can't treat white spot in a reef tank don't try. You have 2 options. 1 do nothing. 2 take all fish out for 8 weeks and house them in a Qt tank this should kill it in both tanks. (A QT tank has no substrate, bare bottom). Cheers. Anymore help. Let me know. Ben.
  5. I recommend a reef tank if you have the time. As above it is more time consuming. Then there is the cost. Yes they cost a lot more the fish are typically 10 times the cost of common fresh. The corals cost between $30-$100 each. Best advise is ask around for shops in your area and listen to the positive feed back ( note don't post negative feed back on this site about shops). Donny has a lot of knowledge, he has helped me. All my products and live corals are brought through nick at fur n fins burpengary He is that deticated to his customers he make home visits if you are having issues and can service your tank as and if required If you want to work up to a larger size I suggest start there. As most things for a small tank will not work on your larger tank. Ie chiller lights and pump. Once you have your tank running (again like above you have a mini world) you don't want to upset it ie moving it all you will need to start again. Be prepared to spend the money on quality products and supplements. Again for my money I have a helea chiller. Echo Tech lights. Uv and only use Red Sea pro salt ro water and Red Sea supplements. Suggest not using Natural sea water. To many things can make there way into your tank you need to control the environment. Best of luck. Ben.
  6. origial members have there start (Join) date as 1970, thats the answer
  7. 2 main things to remeber with Salt tank, go SLOW and have deep pockets, knowing what you need and as you say save for it is one good plan, once ready start, start small with a few morphs and common corals ($100-$200 worth), then wait a few months, so oftern you will spend $100's and I mean $100s (near $1000's) on coral, it wont die the next day, it will take weeks and months, that is the hard lesson, the tank needs to be within 5% of perfect for it to thrive, there is no close enough, the issue is as a coral dies, it realeaes more sh!t and stuff slowly into the system, pushing up you NO3 and Ammonia, causing more to struggle and die, it is cyclic and can happen fast, even over night, not to scare you off, just to prepare, it is so rewarding when done wright, best of luck, PM any time, can wait to see further updates, but so far looking great with the correct tools and advice anything can be done. at this stage I would be testing NO3 daily, you want it to be as low as it can to 0, to high and the rocks will die, watch if for the next week and dont add more if it starts to rise, control it with a few small water changes
  8. all goes down to the "DONT TRY THIS AT HOME", alot of PPL buy from OS to save a few, but cost more, not only if they blow it up but the cost of a converting transformer, there are two typs of power supplies, IRON CORE or SWITCH MODE for exabple the IPhone charger is switch mode, thats why they come with the AUS attahcment for you to install, one transformer/charger for all the would, just pack the correct socket plate. it is easy to see this, ask the supplyer what is the operation voltage or ask for a picture of the spec plate, it will either be fixed, ie 110vac only or 240vac only or a range, 110-240v ac, it may not look diffent but can save money and heart ach, so a quick warning from a sparky Ben
  9. good works, looks like you might have an Aiptasia on you live rock if this is the case use Red Sea Aiptasia-X 60ml - you want them gone they will sting and kill your coral
  10. Go to a few LFS's that have coral set ups, big or small and ask to see the detail, get ideas and ask questions, there are alot of opinions out there, what you want to see is a minimal system with coraline algee growing, no green or brown algee, it has taken me over a year to get my tank right, I now have coral groing and thriving in my tank. so go slow and when your reday for the coral then start to get it, ****** you are bulding an eco system in 200 ltrs of water, coral is a live animal that gets 90% of its nutrition from the enviroment, you have taken it from its home you must make the envoroment now it will not live without somthing****** From here it gets scary sorry but if you want a reef tank this all is a must - I get no kickback here and again others have thier way you want the NO3 - PO4 to be 0.00 all the time - test twice a week until it is stabel, then weekly (you will need the test kits ($80)) sponsors aside, I only use RED SEA products, NoPoX is a must 10 ml per day from the end of the green algee cycle for ever is the first (2nd month). (if you get a red algee bloom this is bad, and you need to clean it quick) pm for advice then you want to (once you have corals about month 6) get A, B, C ($30 each for 500g) coral foundation (also another test kit ($80-$130)) test weekly and balance per the bottles after that you will look at the suppliments, ammino acids and vitimins (A and about 5-10 mm each per day dep on how much coral after that you will look at improving the colors and buffers (another test kit and suppliments about 12 months down the track when things are starting to grow ($250 all up here)) Good Luck cheers Ben
  11. Hi first thing is we need a picture, and I can see from reading you are still not 100% sure of what you want to put in ther tank, as it is summer in SA now what is the current temp, as above you cant think of any coral or (north tropical fish) in water above 27 deg, (coral needs 25-26 max) the higher temp will also cause ammonia to spike more quickly, if it gets away it can turn toxic to everything within 24 hours (0.00 - 5.00ppm) it must stay at 0.00 ppm, if you detect 0.025 in the test, this is critical, somthing is wrong. live rock in the sump must also have a light or it will die, use a normal fish tube in here and have it reverse to the tank light, ie on at night, this helps settle the PH wich if you watch will change during the day/night cycle, where are you getting the water, are you mixing it, do you use rain water, tape water with condinioner or RO/DI (RO/DI is the 100% prefered method unless you buy it in) Po4 and No3 must also be 0.00 ppm, any thing above this and the coral will not live. morphs will tolorate the Po4 slightly high dont do to many water changes - 10% each month max, its better to keep the sump clean, I clean mine 100% every 8 weeks. as you have the T5's now spend the money in the chiller before you invest in the LED's my recomendation is if you want to go coral the only LED's are the radion ($800-900 each and you will need 2) coral will need the lights on for 10-14 hours, the T5's and or LED's heat the water again a chiller is a must Cheers keep us updated Ben
  12. Love the Radion's as recomened a year ago by Donny, I now have 3, 1 is the new Gen III with the UV LEDS is amazing, yes cost a packet, but 100% worth it, the effects, moonlight, sun rise all simulated buy these light, whilst giving the closest simulation to natural light for the coral Cheers Donny
  13. question led's why, yes they are good, however what is not known is there are 3 grades, out of 10 million leds less than 1 million are grade A, about 2 Million B grade, the rest C grade, these C grade Led's are the type you normally buy in the cheap or ebay fittings, ie $7 LED downlights for example, you will spend more money over time replacing these than you will in cost savings to run them, that been said, what are you lighting, general aluminatioin, breeding, plants or marine. I would 100% steer away from the cheap LED strips or other like items on Ebay from overseas, I know ppl whom have spen $100 on these for them to last 3 months. my recomendation is, if it is general lighting 3 x 36 watt tubes make 1 a grow lux if you have some plants, total cost to run per day $0.18c (8 hours) and $100 to buy from bunnings if you want to go LED, buy a phillips or simillar brand LED downlight (MR16) and a good LED transformer from an electrical wholesale like ideal, you would need at least 4 ($40 per set) $160 (but recomend 6-, cost to run per day $0.05c for 4 LED strips have limited impact unless installed around 6 inches from the tank, led downlights can focus the light to make it through the water Thanks cheers Ben
  14. Yes I vac my sand. Once every 2 months. Sorry you in oxley I get all my marine from fur and fins burpengary the also have great advise. Don't over load the tank with a lot all at once. Get 2 or 3bits each fortnight. Yes a sump for all marine. It adds "volume" which helps keep levels more stable. Good place for the skimmer and filter socks. I have a few little live rocks in mine and run a light in reverse to the tank. This helps the ph remain stable overnight when the coral sleeps. Cheers ben .
  15. Hi Cameron, the first question, is what type of filter mate, however at a glance, you would be at the upper level of the population, remember do not over feed as this will cause problems, do a regular water change, 10 % each week (5-10 ltrs) get an amonia test kit and test that weekly Cheers good luck, post a pic thanks. Ben
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