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Steve Williams

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  1. I am in Brisbane and have been keeping discus for 8 years. I have a 1000 litre tank, heavily planted with co2 injection. I had about 15 discus of different sizes (6 to 14 cm) and of different ages (5 years to 2 weeks). Most have been purchased from a reputable GC store. I also have tetras, corys, whiptails and Rams. Starting late last week, I have lost 1 discus per day. They look fine in the evening, are eating well, and seem fine. Seem OK in the morning, but are dead by the time I get home from work. There is no evidence of disease or damage on them. The non-discus don't seem impacted. My tank parameter are ph 6.9, nitrite 0, nitrate 10 and kh of 70 ppm. I do 40% water changes a week. Can anyone suggest what my problem may be? Thanks. Steve Williams
  2. Hi. I have been keeping discus for 8 years now, just in conditioned Brisbane tap water - around a ph of 7.7. As I am starting a new tank, I was wondering if there is any real benefit of using RO water instead to get the ph and go down. thanks for your advice. Steve Williams
  3. I live on north Brisbane and have a 4 foot reef tank. Can somebody recommend a company or individual who can do a regular monthly maintenance service? Thanks Steve Williams
  4. I live in north Brisbane and have a 4 foot reef system. Can anybody recommend a company/individual who could do a regular monthly maintenance service? Thanks Steve Williams
  5. How would ecotech marine radion lights work on a planted tank? Steve
  6. Hello, I have a 4 foot tank, which is 2 feet deep, and is well planted. I have co2 bubbling in, good substrate and a regular fertilising regime. Can somebody please recommend a good lighting setup. I currently have 4 t5s, which give off a more yellow light. Tubes are supposed to be for plants, but am a little uncomfortable with the yellow hue. Is there any LED solution that would provide a good environment for the tank depth? I cannot hang from the ceiling and would need to attach to the tank hood. Thanks for your help. Steve
  7. I have a medium size discus for some time now. However over the past couple of months he has stopped eating and stayed at the back of the tank. All the other discus in the aquarium are fine and eating well. I have taken him out and put him in a quarantine tank, with raised temperature. Ph is same as large tank - around 7.5. I have noticed that occasionally he passes faeces which are white and quite long. He will still not eat - refusing good quality pellet, dried worms, frozen worms and live black worms which he had taken quite readily in the past. He does not look emaciated, but given the considerable time he has gone without food, I need to resolve this problem sooner rather than later. Can someone please help with diagnosis and suggest a medication or method. Thank you Steve Williams
  8. Thank you for your advice and kind offer. I am not in a hurry to worm them - I don't believe there is a problem. Someone just mentioned to me that it is something that should be done regularly and that it was tardy of me not to be doing so. I don't want to put the fish through the stress of temporary relocation for something Taft maybe unnecessary. Perhaps I will hold off for the time being. Thanks again.
  9. Can anyone recommend a product to worm discus in a planted community tank. I am looking for something that will do the job and not harm plants, tank mates or the filter bacteria. thanks for your advice. Steve
  10. I am considering starting a new aquarium for discus, measuring 4x2x2.5 which is around 500 litres. I am considering having it well planted out. However, I have 2 questions I would seek some advice on: 1. Can somebody recommend an external canister filter type and model. On my current tank, which is about the same volume, I run an Aquaone Nautilus 2700 which is rated around 2700 lph. I am looking for a good balance between flow rate and effective filtration. I don't want to have a huge filter than blows too much water back through the return, particularly given that discus do not like too much current. On the other hand, I want to ensure that there is adequate filtration. Is there some rule of thumb for discus such as a filter that turns over 3-4 times the tank capacity every hour. I am considering an eheim, but they are expensive. Any recommendations would be most appreciated. 2. I am considering using rainwater as the basis for my water supply and changes. Currently, I use Brisbane tap water (about a ph of 7.6), and my existing discus seem fine. But the idea of a slightly lower pH and softer water is appealing. Any thoughts on whether this is a good/bad idea? Thanks for your help. Steve Williams
  11. I have a 550 litre planted community tank with 10 medium size discus. I have recently increased the amount of food that I have been giving them and they have responded in kind. (They have had increased feeds of dozen bloodworm and freeze-dried blackworms.) They seem quite healthy and are very hungry. However, I have really never seen them pass any excretement. On this basis, I am presuming that I need to worm them. While I have had most of these fish for almost 2 years, I have not wormed them for quite some time. I have the product AQUAWORM (from Science Products, prazi being the active constituent) which I would like to use. However it cautions on the use of this medication on tetra species. Unfortunately, I have 12 harlequin tetras in the community tank. It is not really practical removing either species for the purpose of worming. 1. Would you agree that worming is a good thing to do, particularly if the discus don't seem to be passing solids? 2. Has anyone had any experience using this worming product in a tank with tetras? Thanks for your advice. Steve Williams
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