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aquaholic99 last won the day on June 15

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About aquaholic99

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  1. Doubling the pipe/hose diameter will quadruple the flow which is good for draining and filling. On bigger hoses (swim pool hose or bigger) it can be hard to start the siphon by mouth so add a tap at end to maintain the prime between use. Alternatively submerge the whole hose and seal the exit end with a plastic bag until you want to start the siphon. This is especially good for 100mm PVC drainage pipe siphon. If you have multiple tanks to drain, make up some U bends in PVC pipe that only go down to the level you want to empty without having to stay there. So several simultaneous drains at once. You can fill the same way but use a water level alarm. (And remove any carpet - switch to marine carpet).
  2. Hi Crusty, If you look up the magnetic strength requirement, you can make your own DIY set. For example https://www.kjmagnetics.com/blog.asp?p=aquarium I bought a commerical floating rare earth magnet called Tiger Shark (has fake wood housing) for around AUD$145 which is quite powerful and handles 20mm acrylic panels well. Just make sure it floats or you will get particles between which will scratch your glass. I will be making my own magnets for 60mm glass later this year as I can't buy commercial models this size. Microfibre cloth which is easily replaced. If you want a cheap effective glass cleaning option, I use 30 x cheap chinese algae eaters (sucking cats) on a 10 x 3 x 3 size tank with predatory catfish. They are very fast and eat fish poo (which has undigested food) as well as clean the glass. It takes 3 -4 years for them to eventually get eaten but you can add more each year and some do grow big enough to last. I prefer the gold morph as they are extremely fast and difficult to net out. The gold form is easier to see & catch at night when they sleep.
  3. Just drain as much water out as possible, cover plants with damp newspaper and shift. If the tank glass is thinner than it should be, you can slide a sturdy sheet of wood underneath and lift the wood. Almost all the planted tanks at the RNA show are well established tanks that have been moved.
  4. If you are trying to squeeze as many tank levels as ceiling height allows, you can stagger your tanks on each rack to get more clearance above each tank. On my earlier racks I used a water bridge to join adjacent tanks (12 tanks per level) so filling one would fill them all. From your brief description, I would fashion a bucket with drain hose at bottom. Just hang the bucket with hose in the tank you want to fill and pour the new water into the bucket. Just like a big funnel.
  5. It's a flushing filter. The water level rises and falls to fully utilise all the biomedia surface. The rising water pushes old air out to maximize oxygenation. So it sounds like it's working well. The eheim canisters have slow flow rate in comparison to other brands but this doesn't affect their fish load / tank volume capacity.
  6. As you have steel stands and flat level floors, a very easy way to shift tanks/racks all by yourself is with a car jack and 4 small platform trolleys. Just jack up one end at a time and slip the trolleys under - wheel tank/rack into new position and reverse the procedure. Make sure tanks dont have water to avoid sudden weight shifts. Gravel is fine. You can hire the trolleys but it's fairly easy to make sturdy heavy duty ones for about $12 each. And bunnings sell small trolleys which I haven't tried as my racks are 12 - 30 tanks each. https://www.bunnings.com.au/move-it-134-x-43mm-triangular-premier-dolly_p3961554 https://www.bunnings.com.au/move-it-150kg-5-piece-lift-and-roll-set_p3940201 I recommend placing plastic chop board (HDPE) under your steel stand legs to keep them out of puddles. Spilled water takes many days to dry under legs. They make black plastic if you search.
  7. Hi Grover, Settlement chambers work very well and super simple/reliable if you have the space. The chamber size is dictated by input pipe diameter. You want slow flow but not slow enough for settling in the pipes. There are other methods to improve settlement chamber efficiencies - suspended brushes, having an upward sloped bottom, radially reducing the speed. (Radial filter - NOT vortex), etc. You can bottom drain or sludge pump out depending on your situation. Unfortunately you have jumped to the wrong conclusion with cyclones (vortex). They are really terrible for ponds and only marginally okay with chlorinated pools (super clear water). That's been my experience anyway and I play with filtration a lot. One really good method of settlement chamber is to use your pool itself. You can retro fit bottom drains if the pool doesn't have any. To stop the fish stirring the bottom, I would use a double layer of plastic bread trays across the deeper section floors. Attach plastic flyscreen or shade mesh layer to the top one. Give me a call or email if you want to discuss offline. Could save you many thousands and months of frustration.
  8. Hi, Sorry for late reply. I visit this forum less and less .... you will find better, faster responses/more informative replies elsewhere. As your intention is to EI dose 3 times a week and Glut everyday, the main aim is slow controlled availability (surplus) of nutrients. Step 1. So guestimate the nutrient amounts you wish to provide over say a week (which you have done). Step 2. Set up a slow drip into your tank to determine how much water drips in over a week. This can be airline with a valve or a pre-set rate irrigation dripper. Step 3. Add the nutrient and this amount of water into a slow drip container (not sealed) That's pretty much it since you have already premixed the nutrient. You will find an airstone in the drip container will prevent settling out and more accurate doses per drip. Although the drip rate will change as the volume of nutrient decreases, the total dose per week will be remarkably consistent. A long shallow container will maintain more uniform head height than a tall deep container. You will also find better results if the valve is right at your container or use a wide bore tube to your valve to keep a heavier head of water. And at the end of the day, this is just estimated dose (surplus). Just tweak as you go. oh and of course allow enough tank volume to add this amount of extra nutrient volume without flooding.
  9. If you want a cheap method: 1. Premix the amount of fertiliser you want into a suitable sized container. 2. Place rhis container holding premixed solution over your tank with an overflow drain that leads back to the tank. 3. Place a small sized powerhead into your fishtank on a digital electric timer ($15) set to come on for a minute at the day/time you want to dose. 4. That's it. The powerhead will fill and flood the container when you want, washing your fertiliser into the tank. Just make sure your drain hole can handle the flow rate back to tank. There is an even easier way to dose but this is what you asked for.
  10. My experience with uniseal through glass is hit & miss. It can take quite a bit of effort to push the pipe through even with lubricant or chamfered edges. And uniseals don't become cost effective until pipe diameters are large.
  11. Could also be both males. Why don't you get another tank and another pair as this will double your chance of success. Growing up 6 - 8 fish together will also increase your chances of success. And if you can't find compatible pairs, you can breed them through a tank divider.
  12. I use standard PVC pipe fittings with a rubber ring (seal) without silicon. Much cheaper and more choice of fittings than bulkhead/tank outlet fittings. Mostly for sieve and setting water levels.
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