Jump to content

aquaholic99

Forum Member
  • Content Count

    2,611
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    22

aquaholic99 last won the day on June 15

aquaholic99 had the most liked content!

4 Followers

About aquaholic99

  • Rank
    Titanium Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Chelmer
  • State
    QLD

More

  • Biography
    A few details about myself
  • Interests
    Tankbusters, Breeeding unusual fish
  • Occupation
    Unemployed

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I had a quick Google and this page is reliable - https://www.thatpetplace.com/articles/dipping-plants-to-eliminate-snails I use a level table spoon of alum per 5 liters for 20 minutes on delicate plants but also use a microscope to confirm. If you don't have a scope, just over dose and over bath. I also use listerine (mouthwash) to reliably disinfect.
  2. Hi Adam, If your main purpose is for feeding turtles some greens, I recommend you read this link. There are much easier ways to feed your turtle than collecting and disinfecting aquatic plants. http://www.fishpondinfo.com/turtles/turfeed.htm Feeding in a separate tank or container is a good idea to reduce maintenance and building confident behavior. If your tank or pond is indoors, you can put your turtle in a partly shaded cage or enclosure for a few hours each week. Using alum is an old school method of disinfecting that is gentle on delicate plants but less effective on snail eggs as other methods. As the plants will be destroyed by the turtle anyway, it doesn't really matter if you overdose or over bath.
  3. I find pleco don't clean neatly. I suppose some cleaning is better than no cleaning but the algae eaters are very methodical.
  4. It just depends on why you are breeding the fish. If you are going for high output, just watch the fish behaviour, move interested pairs to a dedicated breeding tank then remove them after spawning and artificially hatch & raise eggs. The adult fish don't firm long lasting bonds in my opinion. I wouldn't keep a single pair together when not breeding. Breeding through a net is a nice lazy way to raise fish semi naturally. I've had separated fish spawn through a canister filter (input and output at opposite ends of tank - pretty clever fish! ) so the netting isn't any barrier to breeding. I use thin blue fiberglass mesh for cosmetic appearance, cost and durability. Another lazy way to breed fish naturally is to rack all your 3 and 4 foot tanks end out with open space at front end for feeding & cleaning and a high pile of rocks at the back for total privacy and security. The fish will still hang out at the front constantly for food but when they don't come out, expect babies. If you can face the back end towards the sun/window to promote a green algae wall, the fry will get first foods naturally without over feeding/water pollution. The distance away from you/front of tank gives the fish more confidence, epecially good for more aggressive species. If you don't want to rack tanks end on, you can use java moss and a light. Just let the Java moss completely fill the tank. You will only see glimpses of fish occasionally but easy to scoop out babies as you need. Good luck. It's impossible to reduce the number of tanks of you are breeding.
  5. A short term bath with Alum, kondies crystals, salt or copper sulfate to remove potential parasites. If you are adding to a frozen food mix, the freezing process will rupture all protozoa and eggs. If you explore the streams or water bodies that have permanent water, you will find plants.
  6. You might have to break the vacume seal. Pull the hoses out of water, open one of the taps and blow some air down that hose. You could also use a garden hose & water but that will make a mess.
  7. There is a thin blue fiberglass mesh used by concrete render trades that has 6mm gaps. I use this as a tank divider on a frame as fish will spawn right through it. No need to remove it ever. Baby fish can pass through both sides to which ever parent that calls until they get too large.
  8. Hi Aqua,

    Any chance of getting that further detail on what creeks and parts of them that hold Vallisneria and Elodea? Also, the treatment process you recommend? Thanks in advance.

  9. Try him on lettuce or Chinese greens like bok-choy. Duckweed is extremely easy to grow but gets messy. Fruit shop for over ripe items - water melon, apple, etc. There are a few creeks which have lots of val & elodea if you wanted wheel barrows full but as they need high nutrient water, this usually means sewage upstream and you would need to treat against parasites (fairly easy process).
  10. Doubling the pipe/hose diameter will quadruple the flow which is good for draining and filling. On bigger hoses (swim pool hose or bigger) it can be hard to start the siphon by mouth so add a tap at end to maintain the prime between use. Alternatively submerge the whole hose and seal the exit end with a plastic bag until you want to start the siphon. This is especially good for 100mm PVC drainage pipe siphon. If you have multiple tanks to drain, make up some U bends in PVC pipe that only go down to the level you want to empty without having to stay there. So several simultaneous drains at once. You can fill the same way but use a water level alarm. (And remove any carpet - switch to marine carpet).
  11. Hi Crusty, If you look up the magnetic strength requirement, you can make your own DIY set. For example https://www.kjmagnetics.com/blog.asp?p=aquarium I bought a commerical floating rare earth magnet called Tiger Shark (has fake wood housing) for around AUD$145 which is quite powerful and handles 20mm acrylic panels well. Just make sure it floats or you will get particles between which will scratch your glass. I will be making my own magnets for 60mm glass later this year as I can't buy commercial models this size. Microfibre cloth which is easily replaced. If you want a cheap effective glass cleaning option, I use 30 x cheap chinese algae eaters (sucking cats) on a 10 x 3 x 3 size tank with predatory catfish. They are very fast and eat fish poo (which has undigested food) as well as clean the glass. It takes 3 -4 years for them to eventually get eaten but you can add more each year and some do grow big enough to last. I prefer the gold morph as they are extremely fast and difficult to net out. The gold form is easier to see & catch at night when they sleep.
  12. Just drain as much water out as possible, cover plants with damp newspaper and shift. If the tank glass is thinner than it should be, you can slide a sturdy sheet of wood underneath and lift the wood. Almost all the planted tanks at the RNA show are well established tanks that have been moved.
  13. If you are trying to squeeze as many tank levels as ceiling height allows, you can stagger your tanks on each rack to get more clearance above each tank. On my earlier racks I used a water bridge to join adjacent tanks (12 tanks per level) so filling one would fill them all. From your brief description, I would fashion a bucket with drain hose at bottom. Just hang the bucket with hose in the tank you want to fill and pour the new water into the bucket. Just like a big funnel.
×
×
  • Create New...