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aquaholic99

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aquaholic99 last won the day on March 2

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About aquaholic99

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  • Location
    Chelmer
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    QLD

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    A few details about myself
  • Interests
    Tankbusters, Breeeding unusual fish
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    Unemployed

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  1. If you dig the pond floor down well below the frost line and place polystyrene between the wooden case and pond liner /fiberglass. Use bifenthrum treated polystyrene to stop worm & insect attack. Use several airstones (kept off the bottom to reduce bottom mulm) over winter to prevent surface ice although some ice fine. Do install bottom drains if possible. Koiphen is the better online koi resource. They are fanatical about their Koi and most of their members are in the northern hemispheres like you.
  2. Are there any sponsors anymore? I don't believe QLDAF memberships provide any discounts anywhere anymore? Not surprising, this is a fairly quiet forum.
  3. I've used them. Digital gauge is nice. They cut off and on within a narrow range and do turn on reliably.
  4. for the information within or for your book collection ? ABE Books has 2 copies from US$270. You could try Yahoo Japan or Taiwan. I have about 1200 aquarium book titles, I constantly look in used book stores in every city/country I visit, ex library sales, book fest, check online book exchanges and fish forums. I've only seen this title three times in the last 15 years. I could photograph a relevant section if your stuck but not the whole book (copyright).
  5. It is not gill fluke (although they may be present). I suggest you buy iodine gel ointment (chemist or supermarket). Net fish, pull out of water but leaving it in net until it stops wriggling and dab iodine gel directly on the wound with your finger or cotton bud. Take your time, you want to stain the wound but avoid the inner red gill fillaments. If your nervous, try this on another fish or mid body part first but it's easy. then release. Net will stain so don't use your favorite net. that's probably all you need but could repeat after 24 hours. Iodine is effective against bacterial, fungal & viral issues. Do get the gel type, not liquid as it's near the gills. Hospital tank would benefit with salt (not Epsom salt).
  6. There is a guy called Gary with a one person aquatic plant farm in Beenleigh. He used to sell to the public out of his white van every second Sunday at Rocklea Market although I have not visited for a couple of years. Excellent healthy plants, very well priced although some are grown under mist (emersed ) not submerged. It's far from the north side though. send me a PM if you want his mobile number.
  7. PRIME chemically converts to Sodium thiosulphate via sulphur dioxide anyway. But that's another topic. Interestingly you can remove ammonia & nitrite with chlorine shock and then dechlorinate if your water supply quality is poor. The best method is to have adequate bio filtration and smaller water change volumes.
  8. Hi Grover, I've got plenty of the bright green tree frogs if that's of interest?. I use vertical PVC pipe clusters inside a 100mm pipe with an end cap (so it holds water). Have found up to 7 frogs per cluster.
  9. Not sure what you have in mind but getting stock from various sources makes it much harder to fix a strain. Usually you need to ID & track the parents of each spawn right through to their grand babies to ensure the traits you want are consistent. This needs multiple tanks and many years of effort. Unless you invest in stock off someone who has already started.
  10. Very reliable method is to test for free chlorine/chloramine with a pool chlorine tablet. Don't need the kit, just the tablets as any pink colour at all is bad. A packet of ten tablets is about $2. If you want cheap reliable chlorine neutraliser, I buy sodium thiosulphate crystal. I bought a 20kg bag for $25 that has lasted me 20+ years. Still have heaps left and I have lots of tanks. Some water changes are 25,000 litres weekly. My last water bill was $850 for the quarter. Any pool store or industrial chemical supply (cheapest). PM me for dosage calculations.
  11. The simplest filter I've found is to put your pump into a 20L bucket with a short hose on the output. Then bury the pump in 6 or 8mm gravel and drop the bucket into the tank. Essentially a 20L canister. Lift the bucket out to clean. It will take a very long time to clog and have superior mechanical and biological filtration to a sponge block. You should be made aware of the dangers of raising bristlenose (or orher L number species) in plastic. They will graze off micro plastics into their body, especially if the plastic is encouraged to grow algae.
  12. The Ziss incubators are excellent but if you need something with an open top, IKEA sell the "SVALKA" wine glass (6 for $8). Or a sturdy short stem, high side tapered goblet for $2 each.
  13. If you take out half the water, you can climb into the tank with a milk crate (to get back out). I use a folding boat ladder on 1.2m deep tanks. Assuming you don't have kids on holidays to send in. Or tape the net to a long broom stick? Just be mindful of the ammonia spike on large volumes of new substrate. You won't be able to remove by water changes even 80% water daily but PRIME will work. The test kit will give scary readings still.
  14. A fish scale photo collection of a few different species would suit some fish crazy people. Will add this to my bucket list. Previously I've been keeping zip locked scales in a freezer.
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