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About aquaholic99

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    A few details about myself
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    Tankbusters, Breeeding unusual fish
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  1. TILKEY at Coopers Plains (Brisbane) sell plastic drums of all sizes. New and used. http://www.tilkey.com.au
  2. Deeper ponds dont fluctuate in daily temperature as much as large volume ponds which dont fluctuate as much as shallow or small ponds. At the start and end of brisbane winter, day temperature can be 30 degrees and night temperature can be 10 degrees. A 20 degree rapid change is hard for all fish, cold water, cool water ir tropical. I have salmon tail catfish outdoors. I use a heater set to 18 degrees at start and end of winter to stop the fluctuations and turn heater off once the weather settles.
  3. Sounds like his swim bladder is damaged, either by rapid temperature change or physical injury. I don't think epsom salts is going to do anything, it's more for fish that float. I would just keep the tank dark and see if he recovers. He may not make it, or he may survive without fully recovering. Might even make a full recovery - depending on how badly damaged and how tough he is. Best wishes!
  4. Most people do prefer perfect bars so if you are selectively breeding to suit what most people like/want then the "Y" stripes are culled and the female throwing them not be used anymore. Similarly a dark lateral line spoiling the white band is usually avoided. If you personally like the "Y" stripe and don't care what others think then do what you wish. However if you only have space to raise say 500 babies, then why not keep the very best 500 fish?
  5. I would use an air driven sponge filter - very established (a food source in itself) and try either live baby brine shrimp or vinegar eel. Live food is instinctively recognised and more easily consumed. If baby brine are too large then infusoria culture slow dripped over gentle air stone. Elodea (plant) creates areas fry can hang out near food and the micro life on the plant itself is useful. If dripping infusoria, keep using the same constant place as fish learn where to sit to catch food. Feeding very small fry isn't hard but there is a steep learning curve. Read up on how to feed rainbow fish fry as most of that is directly transferable. Most issues come from over feeding so you need to watch their bellies. Once you have a few eating, the others copy. This can be useful teaching the next spawn by adding some experienced fish in, especially if you weaning onto dead foods.
  6. Have you asked Dennison? He moves large tanks all the time.
  7. Sump is much noisier, prone to evaporation (and salt creep) increasing humidity, takes up a lot more room and can create micro bubbles. Canister is even worse...
  8. I suspect the difference between osmosis and osmoregulation has been mis-interperated or misunderstood. Freshwater fish are hypertonic so they fight to keep salts within their body. Most of what has been quoted applies more to saltwater fish and this may simply be a mis understanding however there are still some significant errors. Resistance to medications is a very real issue though so again, the more choice in treatments available, the better.
  9. Just realised that this is taking attention off someone else's thread so I will stop posting on the topic now. There isn't one best way to run fish. Some people change the tanks to suit themselves (me), others change their methods to suit their tanks (sometimes me). Sometimes you change so much that you end up right where you started but with a lot more experience.
  10. I dont have the hatching room in operation anymore but I may have some old photos if I dig through my archives. Not terribly exciting though, just rows of tanks. I started off robbing eggs earlier and earlier - as soon as a few hours after spawning which means one really has to be on top of egg developnent. I had a large flat table with a moveable magnify light to monitor egg health. The sheen of egg cases can tell you if development is progressing or stalling and when they need to be turned to stop embryos sticking to side walls. Turkey baster or small pippette. However on a 6 foot x 4 foot table, only 48 tanks fit unless you stack. And once you stack, it's more efficient to rack vertically and much easier on your back. Post IT sticky notes are the best way to keep track of multiple spawns / dates / species. Just move the Post IT to the next size tank with the fish. For me, harvesting eggs at 3 days was the most efficient. Developed enough to handle some neglect, young enough to get double or triple the numbers a 15 day harvest would. Most Africans babies are heads & tails at day 5 and when a large decrease in eggs occur. A dedicated hatch room is a nice luxury but I turned it into a bristlenose factory soon after. Taking a few minutes on each tank to check logs for eggs was taking up far too much time so I darkened the entire room (it was pretty small) and spawned the bristlenose in heavy clear glass cups instead. I could check 100 tanks in mere minutes and artificially hatch eggs in the same container. Also very easy to sterilise and start again.
  11. Perhaps... but an over top siphon to drain tank (not to return water from sump) should still restart by itself if done properly. There are essentially two satisfactory designs (with a few variations). One that takes from bottom and the other that takes from top. And as previously mentioned, a drain hole / stand pipe / weir etc would eliminate the mechanics of a siphon drain completely
  12. I'm not grasping the problem but no need to elaborate if you have fixed the issue satisfactorily. Not sure why the display tank floods when air pockets are present. If the sump is big enough then the only air introduced is from empty return pipes. One meter of empty 25mm return pipe is less than 5L volume. A breather tube higher than the tank water level will purge air simply. You can also use purge valves but I'd hate to depend on one. Another suggestion is to split your returns into several smaller ones.
  13. Using facebook as a source is not a great endorsement. Is the origional author cited? It's rather pointless discussing a topic without the author (s) involved. There are several areas where the information is simply incorrect or mis informed. And one treatment never fits all. Some species being very sensitive to salt or formalin. There are also very simple ways to increase oxygen. The best take away message is that one should know what they are doing when treating sick fish / animals. All medications (iincluding salt) are a poison or they wouldn't work. On a very simplistic level, salt and heat are great additions to our arsenal of weapons. Ask any commercial fish farm or aquaculture facility.
  14. The most reliable way to fix your problem is to get a bigger volume sump. Let the siphon break in the return pipes and have enough extra water in the sump so the pump never sucks air when the power comes back. This is more reliable because it's simpler with less mechanical aspects so less can fail. Flapper valves often fail. They rely on higher pressure than gravity weight of water. You can get spring loaded valves but they require a bigger pump to keep valve open and the tiniest particle of dirt will let water through on all one way valves. I'm talking from experience, not book knowledge. If you cant increase your sump volume and cant relocate it then add an over flow sump to catch the extra water. If you can't add an overflow sump then change the drainage on tank to keep more tank water during a power outage. External standpipe to set a higher water level during power outage for example, but there are other methods.
  15. When I used to breed mouth brooding cichlids, I would rob eggs on day 3 and artificially hatch to get maximum number of fry and faster conditioning of females. Once hatched (speed boost incubation with very high temperature) I use 80 glass tanks around 6L - 30cm x 15 cm x 15cm (4mm glass) as these can stack directly on top of each other and vertically rack to save space. One tank per mouthful. Also very easy to "pour" fry out and swish clean. At 1cm you can join different batches of same species to grow out. 50% auto water change weekly and constant feed with lights on 24/7. At 6cm (if not sold) into holding tanks with much lower maintenance and food to reduce costs and food. At 8cm culled and used as food protein. You can also use cages made from oyster mesh to utilise bigger tanks or IBC if you don't have the right size tanks. The cages make catching/harvesting much faster. I racked my 3 foot tanks end on and 4 tiers high to save space and had custom nets the same width of tank for faster harvesting. Each person has their own preferences though. I'm sure others will chime in. Although fairly successful (I was selling cichlid juveniles by weight to save time) it became fairly mundane and I no longer breed any cichlids now. So many more challenging fish species out there.