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aquaholic99 last won the day on January 12

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  1. Slightly different topic: If you want to set the water level inside the barrel more precisely, add an inside elbow rather than the straight side hole. Use appropriate length of PVC pipe in this elbow to set the water level. Or if the water level still fluctuates periodically, slide a 5cm length of silicon hose appropriate diameter down the inside of this PVC pipe. You can push or pull this hose piece up or down easily to set an exact water level in barrel. This atrangement will surface skim better as well and is less likely to clog up than your side drain. It's also a good idea to step up the drain diameter pipe bigger than your entry diameter in case something does get sucked in. Fish for example.
  2. Bit hard to dicipher the photos even though you have tried. If you suspect an air lock, you can place a Tee piece on outside of barrel instead of an elbow. Open upper side of the Tee needs to be above the barrels water level so might need a short riser length of pipe too. I usually mosquitoe screen the open end in case insects crawl in. If possible, have the bottom pipe which goes into sump kept above water level so air can escape. This might create some gurgle noise until any air is able to purge. You could also drill a small hole in the pipe above the sump water line if you wanted the pipe to stay under water for some reason.
  3. Visimo is on the money. You need to increase water hardness for the beneficial bacteria to survive. Low pH and ammonia presence only indicate this possibility but I'm confident enough to say it. Essentially you are going through new tank syndrome cycles. The ammonia will be fluctuating dramatically. Unfortunately armored fish don't show ammonia poisoning as well as other species. You should thank the algae for trying to correct the issue. The easiest solution is to add a couple of coral chunks into the fish tank to self buffer.
  4. Are you triggering the breeding or do the fish "just breed" for you? Increased feeding and water changes are good for conditioning but counter productive if you stimulate spawning by water change. You may need to achieve this as different discrete phases.
  5. There is a big difference between over feeding and increased feeding. Your tank stability shouldn't change with heavy feeding but your maintenance probably will. Live black worm might be an option depending on your substrate. Keeping a smaller tank volume is a lot more effort than a bigger tank volume in my experience. Does the female lay more eggs at breeding? Perhaps it's a problem of fertility? or a problem of incubation? Or perhaps just enjoy 2 or 3 babies per batch? Successful fish keeping is mostly problem solving but perseverence helps
  6. I would increase protein in diet. More shrimp or fish fillet. Just work out what they like and feed a lot more. This will encourage body size growth as well as gonadal activity, both will improve egg production.
  7. Plenty of plywood tanks on MFK's. If you want a deep tank, you can use a welded steel frame for structural strength and line this with plywood or HDPE sheet. Ado_84 built some nice examples if you search this forum and he is local to Brisbane.
  8. Very welcome. If you have lots of baby fish or want to feed VE intensively, a culture takes about 10 - 14 days for the population to boom. So set up ten to fourteen numbered cultures and rob a different one each day in orderly staggered rotation. I sandwich a stretched ladies stocking between 90mm pvc pipe and a pipe fitting then trim to 25mm pipe length in a dropsaw to create a palm sized plate sieve for harvest. An adult worm is about 1.5mm long and the stocking is about 400 micron (0.4mm) which is a good harvest size for bigger fish babies. Don't forget to return the seived VE solution back to the culture as this has all the smaller worm sizes and eggs to grow for next harvest. You could also use a small net frame or coat hanger to make a stocking scoop net but it's best to stretch the stocking. Plenty of other ways to harvest if you google.
  9. I have vinegar eels. Sent me a private message with your postal address and I'll mail you a starter amount. (No charge). And same for anyone else who would like some.
  10. You are correct. The tank could be wildly off center without any harm to glass assuming the base is flat or has polystyrene sheet to remove high points. On my racks of (breeding) tanks I use 15mm polystyrene on the back rail and 10mm polystyrene on the front rail to tilt the tank forwards. Tank drains can clog so any water overflows go down the front face which is much easier to notice than the back in a noisy humid fish room.
  11. It won't be the Silicon sealant at that age. Even fresh silicon with anti mold additives aren't that dangerous depending on aquarium size as the water volume dilutes. A couple of big water changes or time removes that possibility. Also they are large complex organic molecules so very easy to remove by carbon. I would put a test fish in a bucket or other container beside your outdoor tank to see if external causes are to blame.
  12. If budget permits, you can also use two independent systems which come on half as often to give the same overall result. So if/when one fails, the other will continue at half what you require until you notice. Twice the cost and one could argue this would double that chance of something going wrong. Clever design is the key. Send me a PM if you like. Happy to bounce ideas.
  13. Mick, are you worried about the timer sticking on or off? You can get timers that fail on or fail off. So choose the lesser evil. Alternatively use a water timer instead or as well. I find the old analogue (dial count down) water timers most reliable but when I have to run large amounts of water when I'm away, I use two water timers in series.
  14. The fish won't mind current and can easily sit behind rocks if they want quiet water. If you did want to reduce the flow rate significantly, I would get a smaller sized pump. Some can be dialed down electronically nowadays. Having a T bypass back to sump is good for modest flow rate tweaks but not ideal if you want to permanently reduce the flow significantly as you will have the running costs and wear & tear of a larger pump without the benefits. There are lots of ways to plumb a tank but on larger volume tanks, it's far more efficient to have a slow tank to sump turnover and use a small powerhead/airstone to stir the bottom. You could also get some bottom shifting fish like rostratus.
  15. Some very good tips on axylotyl keeping there. It's a difficult topic. I'd lIke to add that keeping the tank in a coolest closed part of house, perhaps on the floor will help if you don't have any air conditioned rooms. When summer air temperatures reach 32 - 35 degrees for days it becomes very hard but I've had good results slow trickling water down a vertical flat fish sponge wall to get evaporative cooling (and a trickle bio filter). I cable tie the sponge directly to egg crate as a frame and use a small internal power filter with a spray bar to supply water along the top edge of the sponge wall. Take tank kids off. On extremely hot days, use a fan over the tank and sponge too. Frozen bottles of ice are a waste of time.
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