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aquaholic99 last won the day on September 10

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About aquaholic99

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  1. If you aren't confident with moving the tank then use a furniture removalist. They have all the equipment. An 8 x 2 x 2 foot tank in 10mm glass weighs 145Kg so fairly light for the size. Get a few people. Plan the lift including emergency stops. A few strategicly placed plastic milk crates could be handy. Or fish box lids. Make sure no one gets their fingers caught when lowering. A flat platform trolley is good for manouvering tight doorways and corners if floor permits. Remove all lids as they can shatter going over speed bumps.Transport them taped up resting on edge, not flat. I prefer a trailer without cage as it's a lower lift and easy access most sides. Low pile unwanted carpet is good for sliding and padding of aquariums. - Visit any carpet store with an industrial waste bin. Bring a stanley knife. You can also use pine wood studs but the carpet is good for sliding over the egdes of ute/trailer. Use a ratchet strap tie if your not good with rope & knots. The tank will slide forwards so pad that side. If using a ratchet strap, secure the loose end. I know somone on QLDAF catch theirs on the trailer wheel which tightened the strap until the tank shattered.
  2. Seal up the inner gaps too. They won't leak but if you don't make it water tight you will get algae growth and crap left in between the glass and its impossible to clean out. Looks terrible if you keep bare bottom tanks.
  3. I have found a willing back packer to help me drive ..... what could possibly go wrong. So thanks for all the suggestions everyone.
  4. Are these barramundi? Or huge corydoras? A few fish farms have huge mangrove jacks in their ponds.
  5. Hi Bill, thanks for the suggestion. I did look at these but they are purchase only and I wasn't able to rent from any of the live seafood exporters I know. Plus they aren't big enough. Cairns Marine who would have better gear also unable to help. I was happy to pay air freight both ways to return their equipment. I can achieve the same things with a pond with more volume and less cost. I'll bring a back up pond as well.
  6. Some freshwater fish around 1.2m long (30kg) for future broodstock hopefully. I usually use strong 250L bags (just like goldfish) but the travel time on this trip is too long. So hiring a closed truck and fitting it out with a 2500L pond, bio filters, oxygen tank and pre-arranging strategic emergency water change locations on the way up. Hopefully I won't need to use them. Controlling ammonia will be the key. I will rig up CCTV cameras so I can continously monitor them. Any QLDAF members near Townsville, Mackay, Rockhampton or Bundaberg ?
  7. I am not as young or as crazy as I used to be so I'm not looking forward to it. Unfortunately a straight shot down to Sydney and back isn't possible due to COVID. Cairns is like going to Sydney twice in the same trip.
  8. Adjustable standpipe on external bell siphon modified for internal drain. Not really sure what you would call that. Grover will come up with a suitable acronym no doubt. Give it a few weeks of tweaks and testing before we call it complete.
  9. Hello fish friends, I am planning a road trip from Brisbane to Cairns and back in late September /early October to pick up some large fish that are too big for air freight. Seeking anyone interested in a long road trip that has a drivers licence to share driving. I will be paying for petrol and motels and can provide tall but true fishy tales the whole trip. Only 20 hours each way. Please message me if interested. Winston
  10. The ziss tumblers are much gentler on larger /delicate eggs. Just use the lowest flow possible. And you can add some newly hatched mouthbrooding african wrigglers (like peacocks) mixed in to stir the eggs gently too. Just time the african breeding to suit the eggs you really want to hatch.
  11. Hello Grover, Successful fill test is good news. Surprised you did not do this before adding the scoria but good update regardless. Sorrry only have time for a brief post. The photo you posted is an Affanan bell. There are other designs including non bell siphons to achieve rise and fall cycles. Q1) What are your primary objectives? - More mechanical, more biological, more nitrate removal? Q2) What are your secondary objectives? - free healthy veges for you/fish? frog and bird haven? Q3) Will you be bypassing this filter over winter months to reduce heat loss? Aquaponics commonly use rise and fall (flood) grow beds so these must be better for terrestial plant growth. Not all aquaponics use flood cycles in grow beds though. I know fish and have an agricultural science degree but I am not an aquaponics expert. Some initial thoughts below, without knowing your objectives. I can expand later when I have time. * Faster and more frequent flood cycles means better oxygenation with more mechanical & biological filtration aspects. Biological including nitrifying and denitrifying aspects, you do not need anerobic conditions to achieve denitrification. The water gets more filtration per single cycle with a rising and falling event than a prolonged flood cycle when you track a single water particle movement (in theory). * More vigorous plant mass/growth equals more nitrate removal, more GG food and a wider safety margin. * While increased frequency of flood cycles would not improve on zero levels of ammonia and nitrite, you can still improve on denitrification and mechanical aspects. * A longer submerged time could be detrimental to terrestial plants (species dependent), increase in media channelling and create potential overflow/flood issues if your low capacity drains got clogged. Bog or emersed plant species like Iris would do well but I believe these species would do well with cyclic drain periods as well. Tomatos are prone to phytophera (root rot). * I do suggest you add an emergency overflow back to pool regardless Negatives: * increased plant growth may give you additional work if that's an issue. Species selection would make a difference. Dwarf papyrus is an excellent nitrate sponge and be fed to fish or re-potted and sold for revenue towards fish pellets. I am sure there are plenty of other plant species. * water noise during drain cycle may be an issue? * Bell siphons can suffer from the dreaded steady state issue, where outgoing water under siphon matches the incoming flow rate so a steady level of water occurs instead of cyclic fluctuations. This can be overcome in several ways, a breather tube to break vacume, ensuring the incoming flow is much lower than the pipe diameter capacity, short pipe length after siphon, using 2 separate siphons. or a closed loop siphon could be used instead of a bell siphon. A timed solenoid drain tap or timed water pump are other suggestions. Also very easy to add a siphon or other device at later date if you wanted to try a prolonged flood first. It may be harder to retrofit drain lines so design for the worst.
  12. The photo you like is an Aqua One brand. So just contact any produce/aquarium/pet/chain shop that buys in their stock. Or if you want to make your own, you can look at zebra fish equipment suppliers.
  13. The example you showed is for sale. You may have to arrange transport though. https://www.amazingamazon.com.au/betta-display-tanks.html
  14. Scott, I would stick to Koi swords as these will breed true to type for future generations with less culling. And possibly have a wider market due to people being more familiar. Pricing may be less perhaps but you would sell more quantity with less maintenance. Would also look at the humble black Molly if you have hard bore water. Will you be using cage culture for propagation ? Send me a PM.
  15. It's relatively easy to pull the worst face off and replace it with saphire glass if that's how you want to go. Can bevel all the existing edges while you are there. I personally prefer the green tint of normal float glass because that's the aquarium glass I grew up looking through when I was a boy.
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