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Everything posted by aquaholic99

  1. As you already have the acrylic panels and you want light in, I would screw in an aluminium U channel at top and bottom to make sliding rails. I thinkyou can get single or double rails depending on how you want to slide panels. Allow gap - room to lift the panels out when needed. The acrylic will bend with time and letting light in may cause an algae issue. Could try plastic channel but aluminium will withstand rough treatment much better.
  2. I found a couple of photos as examples. I like to place the airpump at the end of a fish aisle high up /above water level. So it is out of the way but fairly easy to get to if you need.
  3. I would get 3 x salmontail catfish. They are active at all water levels & school. Not aggressive but predatory towards smaller fish and plants. Individual fish have different personalities. Quite hardy, no heating required in winter and readily available. They can get big if you over feed them however.
  4. One would think higher domestic prices would make Australian aquarium businesses more profitable. Perhaps not? On a related note, the sponsor section of forum is very quiet. Does it need to be closed? Some of the last posts are 2016.. I don't think QLDAF gets any discount from those stores listed there anymore. Understandable. On an unrelated note, has anyone been to the public aquarium at EX Mouth WA recently? It had a rocky start. Just wondering if it's worth visiting since the Corona virus has made me re-think visiting some of the public aquariums in Asia. https://www.perthnow.com.au/news/wa/was-unsafe-11m-ningaloo-aquarium-sits-empty-ng-c85adfc476afa744b9be77a08f1f7182
  5. On the topic of trawler nets, does anyone have friends in the prawn fishing industry? When a net gets tangled, snagged or ripped up, they often cut out the damaged section if there are too many holes to repair and the unwanted net waste goes into the industrial waste bins beside the docks. A few years ago I scored two caged trailers full but I'm in need of more. It would be greatly appreciated if someone could tell me whenever a bin gets netting either on Sunny Coast, Gold Coast or Northern NSW. The netting makes fantastic bio media as you can crush it down as little or as much as you need. Light weight and easy to pull out one handed to rinse clean. It can be used submerged like hanging brushes for settling chambers or packed tight as static media for mechanical. If used for wet /dry trickle, the water runs nicely along the twisted strands.
  6. #5 Is a Mel. McCullochi - skull creek variant. I dont think you will get much for these but your local aquarium shop should take them (free) so people don't release unwanted fish into waterways.
  7. Counted five bright green frogs, that's FIVE repeat F - I - V E, five big fat green frogs around my turtle pond recently. Just hope the carpet snakes stay away. And the creek along my back boundary has swollen up to become a river. I saw a smashed up spa bath floating past so I roped it off and dragged it out. I'd gestimate about $300 worth 40mm & 50mm fittings I can reuse. Check valves, barrel unions, venturi's, ribbed hoses, taps etc. HGIT !!
  8. Supposing the pump pipe outlet has 18mm Outside Diameter (OD) but you wanted to attach this to a pipe with 30 mm OD. You would step up the Outside Diameter of your 18mm pump pipe to 30mm so it's easy to connect these together with a flexible hose. So you visit Bunnings but the only hose to fit your 18mm pump pipe is a standard 19mm silicone tube. This has a wall thickness of 2mm. It will fit over your pump pipe but it would never fit onto the 30mm pipe at the other end, even if you soaked that end in boiling water and stretched it with a pair of pliers stuck down the inside and opened wide up. However it does have 2mm wall thickness so stick it on but only use a 3 or 4 cm length. Now your pump pipe has an OD of 22mm because this hose has added 2mm on each side. Then you drive back to Bunnings to buy some 22mm hose which also has a 2mm wall thickness. So step this up exactly the same to get an OD of 26mm. And repeat and repeat. There are different brands of silicone hose which have much thicker walls but not from Bunnings. And dont be afraid to use different hoses. Garden hose, braid hose, etc. Also you don't need to use complete hose diameters if you will be using a hose clamp. So rather than buying multiple diameter hoses, just cut the side wall so you get a C shaped piece to wrap around. You will have to trim the lengths of these C pieces to get a snug fit but it's much easier to do than it sounds. Alternatively if you befriend the local hardware store, they are happy to give out 4cm lengths of different hose sizes so you can "trial fit" things. This is exactly the same principle used with rigid PVC pipe adapters. If you heat gun a PVC pipe, it will get very soft and can be expanded to much wider diameters but do join your air pump with flexible hose coupling even if you use a rigid PVC main ring line as the flexible hose join will reduce pump vibration transfer to your main air line and reduce the noise.
  9. Yes... Grover56K doesn't know it but I will be lurking downstream from the billabong with an extremely large net during the next big downpour. HGIT !!
  10. This configuration is fairly common but not recommeded as it will place significant back pressure on the two rubber diaphrams (and 4 flapper valves). If you take care of these, the pump will last many many years rather than 2 or 3 years. Suggest you use a much longer flexible hose to curve/sweep around a corner or re-position the pump so you don't have a corner or use a TEE piece instead of the elbow so the pipe diameter available to pushed air is double. Or a combo of these. Another trick is to use silicon sleeves inside each other to step up to wider diameters. Don't forget to place the pump above water level as well.
  11. Last night the SE QLD combined dam water levels passed 61% which was the touted magic number needed to avoid water restrictions by April for Brisbane. Although it has been a wet week, not much has fallen in the Wivenhoe - Somerset catchment but yesterday Wivenhoe has risen to 46% capacity. How good is that !! I have 5 x 22,500 L rain tanks, all full. How good is that !! Many of the cory species in my corydoras rack have been spawning due to barometric pressure changes and temperature drops. Often they stick eggs right onto my hands in their frenzy. How good is that !! And I finally figured out my password to this forum. . so looking forward to any rain related replies. HGIT !!
  12. Slightly different topic: If you want to set the water level inside the barrel more precisely, add an inside elbow rather than the straight side hole. Use appropriate length of PVC pipe in this elbow to set the water level. Or if the water level still fluctuates periodically, slide a 5cm length of silicon hose appropriate diameter down the inside of this PVC pipe. You can push or pull this hose piece up or down easily to set an exact water level in barrel. This atrangement will surface skim better as well and is less likely to clog up than your side drain. It's also a good idea to step up the drain diameter pipe bigger than your entry diameter in case something does get sucked in. Fish for example.
  13. Bit hard to dicipher the photos even though you have tried. If you suspect an air lock, you can place a Tee piece on outside of barrel instead of an elbow. Open upper side of the Tee needs to be above the barrels water level so might need a short riser length of pipe too. I usually mosquitoe screen the open end in case insects crawl in. If possible, have the bottom pipe which goes into sump kept above water level so air can escape. This might create some gurgle noise until any air is able to purge. You could also drill a small hole in the pipe above the sump water line if you wanted the pipe to stay under water for some reason.
  14. Visimo is on the money. You need to increase water hardness for the beneficial bacteria to survive. Low pH and ammonia presence only indicate this possibility but I'm confident enough to say it. Essentially you are going through new tank syndrome cycles. The ammonia will be fluctuating dramatically. Unfortunately armored fish don't show ammonia poisoning as well as other species. You should thank the algae for trying to correct the issue. The easiest solution is to add a couple of coral chunks into the fish tank to self buffer.
  15. Are you triggering the breeding or do the fish "just breed" for you? Increased feeding and water changes are good for conditioning but counter productive if you stimulate spawning by water change. You may need to achieve this as different discrete phases.
  16. There is a big difference between over feeding and increased feeding. Your tank stability shouldn't change with heavy feeding but your maintenance probably will. Live black worm might be an option depending on your substrate. Keeping a smaller tank volume is a lot more effort than a bigger tank volume in my experience. Does the female lay more eggs at breeding? Perhaps it's a problem of fertility? or a problem of incubation? Or perhaps just enjoy 2 or 3 babies per batch? Successful fish keeping is mostly problem solving but perseverence helps
  17. I would increase protein in diet. More shrimp or fish fillet. Just work out what they like and feed a lot more. This will encourage body size growth as well as gonadal activity, both will improve egg production.
  18. Plenty of plywood tanks on MFK's. If you want a deep tank, you can use a welded steel frame for structural strength and line this with plywood or HDPE sheet. Ado_84 built some nice examples if you search this forum and he is local to Brisbane.
  19. Very welcome. If you have lots of baby fish or want to feed VE intensively, a culture takes about 10 - 14 days for the population to boom. So set up ten to fourteen numbered cultures and rob a different one each day in orderly staggered rotation. I sandwich a stretched ladies stocking between 90mm pvc pipe and a pipe fitting then trim to 25mm pipe length in a dropsaw to create a palm sized plate sieve for harvest. An adult worm is about 1.5mm long and the stocking is about 400 micron (0.4mm) which is a good harvest size for bigger fish babies. Don't forget to return the seived VE solution back to the culture as this has all the smaller worm sizes and eggs to grow for next harvest. You could also use a small net frame or coat hanger to make a stocking scoop net but it's best to stretch the stocking. Plenty of other ways to harvest if you google.
  20. I have vinegar eels. Sent me a private message with your postal address and I'll mail you a starter amount. (No charge). And same for anyone else who would like some.
  21. You are correct. The tank could be wildly off center without any harm to glass assuming the base is flat or has polystyrene sheet to remove high points. On my racks of (breeding) tanks I use 15mm polystyrene on the back rail and 10mm polystyrene on the front rail to tilt the tank forwards. Tank drains can clog so any water overflows go down the front face which is much easier to notice than the back in a noisy humid fish room.
  22. It won't be the Silicon sealant at that age. Even fresh silicon with anti mold additives aren't that dangerous depending on aquarium size as the water volume dilutes. A couple of big water changes or time removes that possibility. Also they are large complex organic molecules so very easy to remove by carbon. I would put a test fish in a bucket or other container beside your outdoor tank to see if external causes are to blame.
  23. If budget permits, you can also use two independent systems which come on half as often to give the same overall result. So if/when one fails, the other will continue at half what you require until you notice. Twice the cost and one could argue this would double that chance of something going wrong. Clever design is the key. Send me a PM if you like. Happy to bounce ideas.
  24. Mick, are you worried about the timer sticking on or off? You can get timers that fail on or fail off. So choose the lesser evil. Alternatively use a water timer instead or as well. I find the old analogue (dial count down) water timers most reliable but when I have to run large amounts of water when I'm away, I use two water timers in series.
  25. The fish won't mind current and can easily sit behind rocks if they want quiet water. If you did want to reduce the flow rate significantly, I would get a smaller sized pump. Some can be dialed down electronically nowadays. Having a T bypass back to sump is good for modest flow rate tweaks but not ideal if you want to permanently reduce the flow significantly as you will have the running costs and wear & tear of a larger pump without the benefits. There are lots of ways to plumb a tank but on larger volume tanks, it's far more efficient to have a slow tank to sump turnover and use a small powerhead/airstone to stir the bottom. You could also get some bottom shifting fish like rostratus.
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