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Everything posted by aquaholic99

  1. The simplest filter I've found is to put your pump into a 20L bucket with a short hose on the output. Then bury the pump in 6 or 8mm gravel and drop the bucket into the tank. Essentially a 20L canister. Lift the bucket out to clean. It will take a very long time to clog and have superior mechanical and biological filtration to a sponge block. You should be made aware of the dangers of raising bristlenose (or orher L number species) in plastic. They will graze off micro plastics into their body, especially if the plastic is encouraged to grow algae.
  2. The Ziss incubators are excellent but if you need something with an open top, IKEA sell the "SVALKA" wine glass (6 for $8). Or a sturdy short stem, high side tapered goblet for $2 each.
  3. If you take out half the water, you can climb into the tank with a milk crate (to get back out). I use a folding boat ladder on 1.2m deep tanks. Assuming you don't have kids on holidays to send in. Or tape the net to a long broom stick? Just be mindful of the ammonia spike on large volumes of new substrate. You won't be able to remove by water changes even 80% water daily but PRIME will work. The test kit will give scary readings still.
  4. A fish scale photo collection of a few different species would suit some fish crazy people. Will add this to my bucket list. Previously I've been keeping zip locked scales in a freezer.
  5. You could put a plate or large bowl into your tank during water fill.
  6. I have the Freshwater Algae of Australia book in my library but you would need a low power microscope. https://www.nokomis.com.au/product/new-books/botanical/australia-botanical/freshwater-algae-in-australia-a-guide-to-conspicuous-genera/ Or there is a basic cut down taxonomic paper https://www.researchgate.net/publication/233312467_Taxonomy_of_Australian_freshwater_algae_I_The_genus_Micrasterias_in_South-Eastern_Australia Regardless of species, reducing light (duration or intensity) or food source will help assuming you dont want it. Or some of the suckermouth catfish. Hard or soft mouth species depending on what other plants you may have.
  7. @MFF . I find the easiest way to remove last sand is to siphon it out. Use a large bucket at the other end as a sand trap.
  8. Removing the established gravel will remove a significant amount of biofilm so you may get a mini spike of ammonia and nitrite even with a well established effective filter. I find it easiest to net the gravel out with a fairly coarse 30cm fish net. Similarly, adding in new substrate can create a mini spike as the new bacteria rapidly colonise new surfaces. So you can see that removing old and introducing new at the same time can create issues. Especially with bigger fish. I would remove the gravel but add the new sand in small amounts over a month or two. Perhaps 15% of the total sand at a time. So over 6 or 7 stages. You can keep some PRIME or other chemial ammonia binder on hand in case. If you have a fluidised bed bio filter, you will probably be okay as the bacterial colonies can ramp up quickly. If you want to be sneaky, you can place an established filter (HOB, canister, internal etc) into a barrel of water and turbo charge with household ammonia from superrmarket for two weeks (no fish). Then transfer the filter into your tank when you add the sand. Many years ago I added new sand directly onto old substrate, waited for 2 months and then netted the gravel out (the sand falls through the net) but a tiny amount of gravel was left behind.
  9. Nice post Tim, It's always funny when people think we have trained pets. Sonetimes it's obvious they are training us.
  10. Good news Grover65K! Normally the water would be getting greener and darker with the longer day lengths and stronger intensity sun so it's most definitely improving. Wait to see if this improvement continues but I was also thinking you could boost the effectiveness of your UV by putting them in parallel with a much higher water flow. The trick is to put the water through the UV system faster than the green water can reproduce in the pool so 30,000 LPH - 40,000 LPH during the day (solar panels). Would be easy to plumb up your existing 4 UV filters similar to this link below. https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Mariculture-Fish-Breeding-UV-Filter-for_60301616516.html So high collective flow rate but individually low enough flow for effective kill cycle. I will be building a 600 - 800 watt UV system similar for myself in the next few months to kill white spot (without chemicals). I priced single unit UV systems and couldn't find one below AUD$10K so I will join 10 smaller (75 watt) units myself.
  11. How long does it take for the bottle to clear? The billabong is essentially one large settlement tank so if you could keep the fish from stirring up the bottom or use a network of drain pipes to pick up the sludge directly off the bottom then your pool would clear quite nicely and hopefully quickly. If you want some electronic wizardry then have a look at this instead - https://www.pondalgaesolutions.com/ultrasonicalgaecontrol.html
  12. I'm not sure about the 1.002 salinity requirement but that's practically pure water (Specific gravity 1.000). To measure salinity a simple hydrometer is all you need. Or step up to a refractometer (about $30) which can factor in temperature. Or dont be afraid to just taste the water for salt although TDS may be more useful than salinity.
  13. Found some old photos of baby pink gourami I bred many years ago. Just for some encouragement.
  14. Hello Tom, Beneficial bacteria will struggle at low pH but adding coral to sump should fix that so just monitor. You will go through a lot of coral if using rainwater & CO2 so get some more in advance.
  15. Drain and put the aged media into a bucket with a wet towel over. It will stay moist and keep bacteria alive for several weeks. The tank and substrate will have plenty of biofilm/established bacteria as well so you should be fine.
  16. It's a bit of overkill but if you (or anyone else ) wants formalin - useful for a myriad of ectoparasites or preventative treatments or sterilisation, I have 2.5 litre unopened bottles for $50 each. Security cap sealed. Manufacture date Aug 2020 so good for several years. Just PM me privately to arrange. This class chemical would typically need registration and a business trade account to purchase so a good opportunity to buy at wholesale prices. I bought 10 bottles last order so a bit much, even for me and all my tanks. To give you an idea, 370ml of this + 0.4gm of Malachite Green into 2.5L of water gives you 2.5 Litres of Blue Planet - Rapid White Spot Cure. (I can provide Malachite Green too). If you have roof sarking, wrap that around the IBC skin and slide back into the steel cage. It will reduce radiant heat water temperatures in summer and provide UV protection all year around - adding years to the plastic getting brittle and cracking.
  17. Copper would be my poison of choice, especially against snails. Very cheap, easy to obtain, simple to use and easy to chelate out. You are going for snail annihilation which makes dosages even simpler. PP isn't much use on anything. Mild bleach or mouthwash would be gentler on plants than salt unless you were careful with salt dosage. In terms of growing plants, frogbit or duckweed is probably easier than val. There is a giant duckweed species from N.T. about three times the leaf size as normal duckweed. If growing elodea, use high nitrogen based fertilizers. In the wild, elodea is usually found downstream from sewerage.
  18. If snail eggs are getting through your prophylactic plant treatment then keep the plants in water for 2 - 3 weeks until the snail eggs hatch (temp dependent ) then treat the plants again. Wait long enough until the snail eggs hatch but short enough they haven't had time to breed. If you keep one lot of eggs in a jar (at same temperature) as a sample, you will know when they hatch.
  19. Fish & I made the trip back safely. I used zeolite substrate to remove ammonia, and kept pH at 8 & home made soda lime scrubbers to prevent dissolved CO2 buildup. Didn't need a water change but had pumps, hoses and rest stop locations planned. Met some very hospitable fish keepers in Cairns. Sorry I didn't have time to meet up Scott. We can try again when I dont have fish.
  20. If you aren't confident with moving the tank then use a furniture removalist. They have all the equipment. An 8 x 2 x 2 foot tank in 10mm glass weighs 145Kg so fairly light for the size. Get a few people. Plan the lift including emergency stops. A few strategicly placed plastic milk crates could be handy. Or fish box lids. Make sure no one gets their fingers caught when lowering. A flat platform trolley is good for manouvering tight doorways and corners if floor permits. Remove all lids as they can shatter going over speed bumps.Transport them taped up resting on edge, not flat. I prefer a trailer without cage as it's a lower lift and easy access most sides. Low pile unwanted carpet is good for sliding and padding of aquariums. - Visit any carpet store with an industrial waste bin. Bring a stanley knife. You can also use pine wood studs but the carpet is good for sliding over the egdes of ute/trailer. Use a ratchet strap tie if your not good with rope & knots. The tank will slide forwards so pad that side. If using a ratchet strap, secure the loose end. I know somone on QLDAF catch theirs on the trailer wheel which tightened the strap until the tank shattered.
  21. Seal up the inner gaps too. They won't leak but if you don't make it water tight you will get algae growth and crap left in between the glass and its impossible to clean out. Looks terrible if you keep bare bottom tanks.
  22. I have found a willing back packer to help me drive ..... what could possibly go wrong. So thanks for all the suggestions everyone.
  23. Are these barramundi? Or huge corydoras? A few fish farms have huge mangrove jacks in their ponds.
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