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aquaholic99

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  1. Like
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from Slipshodman in heater time!   
    Most heat is lost through the top of the tank so make sure you have full cover lids. One of my sheds is not room heated so I put sheets of 15mm polystyrene on top of the glass lids and throw a plastic sheet over the whole rack. I see lots of condensation and the air feels warm underneath so I am sure it works. At least that's what I tell myself. I get scary power bills.
    You can use a light beam thermometer gun if you want to find heat leakages on tanks or fish rooms. Good for annoying the neighbours cats too.
     
  2. Thanks
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from Cam07 in Auto Siphons   
    Here is a photo of an auto siphon to create a flushing filter. This is an overhead filter using a 200L barrel but it could be in a sump and doesn't need to be as big.
     
    The inside pipes before media is added - very simple. Water comes in through the 90mm pipe at top. The water level rises and falls inside the filter to create a wave tank.
     

     
    The media used can be anything that doesn't float.
    The photo below is rapid seeding of hydroton clay balls. No fish, just a heap of ammonia. If you want to boost other (hetrotrophic) microbes for bio film production you can add sugar as well. Power head circulating flow through an aged sponge filter.
     

     
    This is the end result below. As I didn't want to waste the energy of pumped water up to the barrel, I decided to add a moving bed bedside the flushing barrel as well.
    A moving bed of K1 is a bio film filter. Often confused with a fluidised bed filter. Happy to asnswer any questions but please google first as there is plenty of better explanations online elsewhere. Simplistically, having the media circulate to the surface allows fish waste and oxygen to the bacterial colonies. There is 16500 LPH of pumped water flowing through the moving bed barrel so the air pump is not necessary but it's a good safeguard against power failure if your air pump is backed up. This is energy wasteful so I was going to replace this with a normally closed solenoid tap to drain out. During a power outage the solenoid fails open so all the water drains out. However after some thought, I decided to drill a permanent 4mm hole. When the pump runs, there is plenty of water. If the power fails, the barrel will slowly drain allowing air to get in. No moving parts to fail. Saved $12 on a solenid tap. I have removed the air pump now.
    After the moving bed, the water gravity drains into the flushing filter. The flushing filter will re-oxygenate the water and provide additonal bio and mechanical filtration. Instead of having the media move (like a moving bed filter) the water level rises and falls so oxygen and fish waste are brought to the media in a different way.
     

     
    Photo of inside the moving bed filter below. The thinner pipe on right (40mm) is incoming pumped water which goes to the bottom of barrel and points back up to stir. The left thick pipe is 90mm stormwater as an overflow drain. It has lots of slits to stop K1 escaping and a T at top to let air out.

  3. Thanks
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from Grover65k in heater time!   
    I would upsize, especially if you are using solar electricity during the day.  The three things I looked for were:
    * Titanium heat exchanger
    * Quiet to run
    * C.O.P. (energy conversion ). 
    * Thermostat. 
    * Easy to use/set. 
    * Long warranty.
    Okay that's more than 3 but those were the most important to me. 
    The latest EvoHeat has 16.28 C.O.P. So 1 kilowatt energy produces 16.28 kilowatts of heat !! And they are in Brisbane so onsite support is easy. They sometimes have slightly dented stock with full warranty. Unfortunately I bought last year so I only have 6.57 C.O.P. but it's working well. 
    It's highly recommended to filter before heat pump. And a monthly flush with chlorine to remove bio film build up. So stick in a 3 way tap arrangement when plumbing up. 
     
  4. Like
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from crusty76 in Auto Siphons   
    Yes.. on a big tank. These blue barrels are the back up (redundancy) emergency filter as the main filter is outside the tank and much bigger.
    However the same principles apply.
     
     
  5. Like
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from crusty76 in Auto Siphons   
    Here is a photo of an auto siphon to create a flushing filter. This is an overhead filter using a 200L barrel but it could be in a sump and doesn't need to be as big.
     
    The inside pipes before media is added - very simple. Water comes in through the 90mm pipe at top. The water level rises and falls inside the filter to create a wave tank.
     

     
    The media used can be anything that doesn't float.
    The photo below is rapid seeding of hydroton clay balls. No fish, just a heap of ammonia. If you want to boost other (hetrotrophic) microbes for bio film production you can add sugar as well. Power head circulating flow through an aged sponge filter.
     

     
    This is the end result below. As I didn't want to waste the energy of pumped water up to the barrel, I decided to add a moving bed bedside the flushing barrel as well.
    A moving bed of K1 is a bio film filter. Often confused with a fluidised bed filter. Happy to asnswer any questions but please google first as there is plenty of better explanations online elsewhere. Simplistically, having the media circulate to the surface allows fish waste and oxygen to the bacterial colonies. There is 16500 LPH of pumped water flowing through the moving bed barrel so the air pump is not necessary but it's a good safeguard against power failure if your air pump is backed up. This is energy wasteful so I was going to replace this with a normally closed solenoid tap to drain out. During a power outage the solenoid fails open so all the water drains out. However after some thought, I decided to drill a permanent 4mm hole. When the pump runs, there is plenty of water. If the power fails, the barrel will slowly drain allowing air to get in. No moving parts to fail. Saved $12 on a solenid tap. I have removed the air pump now.
    After the moving bed, the water gravity drains into the flushing filter. The flushing filter will re-oxygenate the water and provide additonal bio and mechanical filtration. Instead of having the media move (like a moving bed filter) the water level rises and falls so oxygen and fish waste are brought to the media in a different way.
     

     
    Photo of inside the moving bed filter below. The thinner pipe on right (40mm) is incoming pumped water which goes to the bottom of barrel and points back up to stir. The left thick pipe is 90mm stormwater as an overflow drain. It has lots of slits to stop K1 escaping and a T at top to let air out.

  6. Like
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from crusty76 in Auto Siphons   
    Usage #3 - flushing filters
    I will resume this post another day as it is getting late.
  7. Like
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from crusty76 in Auto Siphons   
    Usage #2 - Rapid sump drainage
    On another system I run 18 x 500L green tubs (9 tonne water). These are circular tubs so very easy to create a circular swirl flow with a tap positioned tangentially. With a central drain pipe and outer sleeve, I can pick up the bottom crap easily. In fact I can harvest fish by pulling both pipes and letting the fish drain out to a collection net in sump as the pipes increase in diameter. This system has automatic water change via a 24/7 constant drip.
     

    One of the problems with this setup is the lack of space under the bottom tubs for a sump. I did not want to cut the concrete slab or put an external sump outside the shed (below ground). There is only 30cm clearance. It is possible to daisy chain several sumps to gain a bigger volume but that creates further issues. And I wanted a glass sump because I harvest fish through the sump. In fact, I empty one tub at a time during harvest by pulling out the central stand pipes drain.
    So my sump needs to be big enough to handle the excess water (overflow from tanks) if a power outage occurs but this is very difficult on small sumps for large volume racks. However with the constant drip water change, the sump is quite full. This is also to safe guard against the pump running dry and burning out.
     

    So I use an auto siphon on the sump which will rapidly drain water during a power outage. This still leaves enough water for the system to restart when the power returns and the drip will top back up within a day.
     

    The U tube is the auto siphon. The adjacent vertical pipe (stand pipe drain) is the water height I want to retain in the sump. There isn't a lot of difference in height but these siphons can be very precise if you design with care. Take note of the siphon break hole on the U tube stem.
    During normal use, the vertical stand pipe drains out the excess water from the constant drip. This does not need to be a big drain as even a slow continual drip can change considerable volumes of water. I set this for 20% daily as these are growout tubs.
    During sudden water height increases, the vertical stand pipe drain can't cope so the water level rises until the auto siphon kicks in. This drops the water level down until the anti siphon hole is reached which breaks the sipon. And if water is still coming in and overwhelms the vertical standpipe drain again, the cycle repeats. This is quite reliable as there are no moving parts.
     
    The photo below may explain better.
    Ignore the downward elbow on closed valve tap as this is to drain the sump completely if I need to clean it. Having tight sump clearances create lots of issues.
    I have started using sumps on steel post (rollers) to slide out now but that's another topic.
     

     
     
  8. Like
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from crusty76 in Auto Siphons   
    Usage #1 - Tank turn over
    To keep the crap off the bottom of glass bottom tanks, most recommend a water flow which turns the tank volume over several times an hour. This stirs the muck into the water column and stops it from settling out so the power filter can pick it up.
    For a 120 litre tank, it is pretty easy to turn over 3 times an hour but this becomes a bit more difficult for a 12,000 L tank or system of tanks. Yes it is possible with big powerful pumps but the running costs become prohibitive. A swim pool pump (high volume - high pressure) for example will do this effortlessly but power consumption is high. It is difficult to find high volume - low pressure water pumps unless you attempt to run several smaller pumps at the same time. Some pond pumps come close and more recent technology has improved this somewhat.
    This is a photo of my goldfish racks. It holds 60 x 200L tanks (90cm x 60cm x 38cm) on three tiers. Goldfish are particularly messy fish.
    The top tier of tanks each recieve a slow water fill from a central sump filter with the water pump. Every tank has air driven sponges, so the sump and water turn over is primarily for auto water change and evenly distribute water chemistry. However I want to reduce tank maintanance without high power bills.

     
     
    With a corner divider in each tank, I create an internal chamber containing an auto siphon which will fill and fast drain. 

     
    So top tanks slowly fill until this triggers the auto siphon drain which rapidly empties the corner internal chamber into the tank directly below to produce a quick fill (and stir) followed by a rapid drain into the tier below. If you look at the dark tank picture attached below you can see bottom pipes (45 degree elbowed pipes) which drop into the tanks below. I am able to use a 10,000 LPH pump to clean cost effectively.
     

    The fish love the oxygenation aspects. And I fill the drain chamber with bio balls to make a wet dry flood zone of bio media because it would be a waste of energy not to.
    This creates a noisy system so you do need to love the sound of water.
     
  9. Like
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from crusty76 in Auto Siphons   
    @Slipshodman
    Didn't want to de-rail Grover's BBF thread so I will start a new topic about auto siphons.
    There are at least three different designs and several variations of these auto siphons, but the principle is always the same.
    * Water fills the tank which can take a while if the tank volume is large or the water flow is small.
    * At the set volume (water height), the siphon self generates when internal air inside the siphon is displaced and the falling weight of water pulls more water down with it.
    * A siphon drains water much faster than an overflow drain. If this is greater than the incoming water, the water level in the tank will drop until no more water is left to remove and air is sucked in which breaks the siphon cycle.
    * A new cycle is completed and tank starts to gradually fill again.
    Most commonly used in hydroponic flood beds.  Look up Bell siphon, affnan siphon, auto siphon etc. Youtube would have educational videos and clearer explanations so I won't bother but please ask if you have questions.
    Onto the interesting usage aspect(s). Most fish keepers love water. I use auto siphons in a few different ways. These are not for everyone, but might be interesting for some and might spark some improvement ideas for others.
    This is a simple auto siphon - hmm not sure if the photos will end up where I want them to be...

  10. Like
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from crusty76 in heater time!   
    I would upsize, especially if you are using solar electricity during the day.  The three things I looked for were:
    * Titanium heat exchanger
    * Quiet to run
    * C.O.P. (energy conversion ). 
    * Thermostat. 
    * Easy to use/set. 
    * Long warranty.
    Okay that's more than 3 but those were the most important to me. 
    The latest EvoHeat has 16.28 C.O.P. So 1 kilowatt energy produces 16.28 kilowatts of heat !! And they are in Brisbane so onsite support is easy. They sometimes have slightly dented stock with full warranty. Unfortunately I bought last year so I only have 6.57 C.O.P. but it's working well. 
    It's highly recommended to filter before heat pump. And a monthly flush with chlorine to remove bio film build up. So stick in a 3 way tap arrangement when plumbing up. 
     
  11. Haha
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from crusty76 in heater time!   
    The best thing I did was install a toilet in my furthest fish shed. No walls, I am usually there alone so it always attracts comments  when I get a visitor.
    You don't really need a bed. I crash out inside an empty 8 foot tank if I am in the shed through the night.
  12. Like
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from crusty76 in heater time!   
    Most heat is lost through the top of the tank so make sure you have full cover lids. One of my sheds is not room heated so I put sheets of 15mm polystyrene on top of the glass lids and throw a plastic sheet over the whole rack. I see lots of condensation and the air feels warm underneath so I am sure it works. At least that's what I tell myself. I get scary power bills.
    You can use a light beam thermometer gun if you want to find heat leakages on tanks or fish rooms. Good for annoying the neighbours cats too.
     
  13. Like
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from crusty76 in Giant Pink Gourami – Billabong Ontknoping   
    Grover ,
    How many "pool eyes" are you after? I scavenged a busted up spa pool in my back yard boundary which my creek dumped onto the banks during the last big rains. I'm pretty sure there are a few there waiting to be unscrewed. Be good to recycle them - especially if expensive ? 
    And I have several hole saw sets if you get stuck. Just PM me. 
  14. Like
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from crusty76 in Giant Pink Gourami – Billabong Ontknoping   
    I recently washed 12 bags of scoria from bunnings. Each bag contained a lot of red sludge mud.
    I bought a 6mm seive from bunnings which was a huge time saver, just sieve a little at a time.
    https://www.bunnings.com.au/icon-plastics-395mm-garden-sieve-with-hand-grips_p2961023
  15. Like
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from jc12 in Auto Siphons   
    Here is a photo of an auto siphon to create a flushing filter. This is an overhead filter using a 200L barrel but it could be in a sump and doesn't need to be as big.
     
    The inside pipes before media is added - very simple. Water comes in through the 90mm pipe at top. The water level rises and falls inside the filter to create a wave tank.
     

     
    The media used can be anything that doesn't float.
    The photo below is rapid seeding of hydroton clay balls. No fish, just a heap of ammonia. If you want to boost other (hetrotrophic) microbes for bio film production you can add sugar as well. Power head circulating flow through an aged sponge filter.
     

     
    This is the end result below. As I didn't want to waste the energy of pumped water up to the barrel, I decided to add a moving bed bedside the flushing barrel as well.
    A moving bed of K1 is a bio film filter. Often confused with a fluidised bed filter. Happy to asnswer any questions but please google first as there is plenty of better explanations online elsewhere. Simplistically, having the media circulate to the surface allows fish waste and oxygen to the bacterial colonies. There is 16500 LPH of pumped water flowing through the moving bed barrel so the air pump is not necessary but it's a good safeguard against power failure if your air pump is backed up. This is energy wasteful so I was going to replace this with a normally closed solenoid tap to drain out. During a power outage the solenoid fails open so all the water drains out. However after some thought, I decided to drill a permanent 4mm hole. When the pump runs, there is plenty of water. If the power fails, the barrel will slowly drain allowing air to get in. No moving parts to fail. Saved $12 on a solenid tap. I have removed the air pump now.
    After the moving bed, the water gravity drains into the flushing filter. The flushing filter will re-oxygenate the water and provide additonal bio and mechanical filtration. Instead of having the media move (like a moving bed filter) the water level rises and falls so oxygen and fish waste are brought to the media in a different way.
     

     
    Photo of inside the moving bed filter below. The thinner pipe on right (40mm) is incoming pumped water which goes to the bottom of barrel and points back up to stir. The left thick pipe is 90mm stormwater as an overflow drain. It has lots of slits to stop K1 escaping and a T at top to let air out.

  16. Like
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from Slipshodman in Auto Siphons   
    Here is a photo of an auto siphon to create a flushing filter. This is an overhead filter using a 200L barrel but it could be in a sump and doesn't need to be as big.
     
    The inside pipes before media is added - very simple. Water comes in through the 90mm pipe at top. The water level rises and falls inside the filter to create a wave tank.
     

     
    The media used can be anything that doesn't float.
    The photo below is rapid seeding of hydroton clay balls. No fish, just a heap of ammonia. If you want to boost other (hetrotrophic) microbes for bio film production you can add sugar as well. Power head circulating flow through an aged sponge filter.
     

     
    This is the end result below. As I didn't want to waste the energy of pumped water up to the barrel, I decided to add a moving bed bedside the flushing barrel as well.
    A moving bed of K1 is a bio film filter. Often confused with a fluidised bed filter. Happy to asnswer any questions but please google first as there is plenty of better explanations online elsewhere. Simplistically, having the media circulate to the surface allows fish waste and oxygen to the bacterial colonies. There is 16500 LPH of pumped water flowing through the moving bed barrel so the air pump is not necessary but it's a good safeguard against power failure if your air pump is backed up. This is energy wasteful so I was going to replace this with a normally closed solenoid tap to drain out. During a power outage the solenoid fails open so all the water drains out. However after some thought, I decided to drill a permanent 4mm hole. When the pump runs, there is plenty of water. If the power fails, the barrel will slowly drain allowing air to get in. No moving parts to fail. Saved $12 on a solenid tap. I have removed the air pump now.
    After the moving bed, the water gravity drains into the flushing filter. The flushing filter will re-oxygenate the water and provide additonal bio and mechanical filtration. Instead of having the media move (like a moving bed filter) the water level rises and falls so oxygen and fish waste are brought to the media in a different way.
     

     
    Photo of inside the moving bed filter below. The thinner pipe on right (40mm) is incoming pumped water which goes to the bottom of barrel and points back up to stir. The left thick pipe is 90mm stormwater as an overflow drain. It has lots of slits to stop K1 escaping and a T at top to let air out.

  17. Like
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from hamishh34 in albino dragon blood quality   
    If you want fish to have great natural colour, it's very hard to beat green water as a food source. Fish always look much healthier with deeper - more intense colour when pond raised. 
    If you don't have a pond but still want the benefits, you can grow and harvest green water provided you have racked tanks on a central filter system.  Pipe connect 3 (or more) tubs/tanks/IBC's etc outside and seed these to cultivate green algae blooms on rotation.  So once a week during warm season turn on a tap to connect one into your system and feed fish growouts by flood. Even large fish will filter feed the phyto plankton. Then turn off the green water tank and reseed to be harvested again in 3 weeks. The green water will disappear in a day. You harvest tank #2 next then tank # 3 then back to tank #1 again. 
    If you don't have a central filter, you can place algae tanks up high and drip gravity feed if the overflow can be accommodated. But you will get green murky tanks much longer this way. 
    Very hard to beat free natural fresh/live food. 
  18. Like
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from goodwin626 in Auto Siphons   
    Usage #2 - Rapid sump drainage
    On another system I run 18 x 500L green tubs (9 tonne water). These are circular tubs so very easy to create a circular swirl flow with a tap positioned tangentially. With a central drain pipe and outer sleeve, I can pick up the bottom crap easily. In fact I can harvest fish by pulling both pipes and letting the fish drain out to a collection net in sump as the pipes increase in diameter. This system has automatic water change via a 24/7 constant drip.
     

    One of the problems with this setup is the lack of space under the bottom tubs for a sump. I did not want to cut the concrete slab or put an external sump outside the shed (below ground). There is only 30cm clearance. It is possible to daisy chain several sumps to gain a bigger volume but that creates further issues. And I wanted a glass sump because I harvest fish through the sump. In fact, I empty one tub at a time during harvest by pulling out the central stand pipes drain.
    So my sump needs to be big enough to handle the excess water (overflow from tanks) if a power outage occurs but this is very difficult on small sumps for large volume racks. However with the constant drip water change, the sump is quite full. This is also to safe guard against the pump running dry and burning out.
     

    So I use an auto siphon on the sump which will rapidly drain water during a power outage. This still leaves enough water for the system to restart when the power returns and the drip will top back up within a day.
     

    The U tube is the auto siphon. The adjacent vertical pipe (stand pipe drain) is the water height I want to retain in the sump. There isn't a lot of difference in height but these siphons can be very precise if you design with care. Take note of the siphon break hole on the U tube stem.
    During normal use, the vertical stand pipe drains out the excess water from the constant drip. This does not need to be a big drain as even a slow continual drip can change considerable volumes of water. I set this for 20% daily as these are growout tubs.
    During sudden water height increases, the vertical stand pipe drain can't cope so the water level rises until the auto siphon kicks in. This drops the water level down until the anti siphon hole is reached which breaks the sipon. And if water is still coming in and overwhelms the vertical standpipe drain again, the cycle repeats. This is quite reliable as there are no moving parts.
     
    The photo below may explain better.
    Ignore the downward elbow on closed valve tap as this is to drain the sump completely if I need to clean it. Having tight sump clearances create lots of issues.
    I have started using sumps on steel post (rollers) to slide out now but that's another topic.
     

     
     
  19. Like
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from chazycraig in Auto Siphons   
    Usage #1 - Tank turn over
    To keep the crap off the bottom of glass bottom tanks, most recommend a water flow which turns the tank volume over several times an hour. This stirs the muck into the water column and stops it from settling out so the power filter can pick it up.
    For a 120 litre tank, it is pretty easy to turn over 3 times an hour but this becomes a bit more difficult for a 12,000 L tank or system of tanks. Yes it is possible with big powerful pumps but the running costs become prohibitive. A swim pool pump (high volume - high pressure) for example will do this effortlessly but power consumption is high. It is difficult to find high volume - low pressure water pumps unless you attempt to run several smaller pumps at the same time. Some pond pumps come close and more recent technology has improved this somewhat.
    This is a photo of my goldfish racks. It holds 60 x 200L tanks (90cm x 60cm x 38cm) on three tiers. Goldfish are particularly messy fish.
    The top tier of tanks each recieve a slow water fill from a central sump filter with the water pump. Every tank has air driven sponges, so the sump and water turn over is primarily for auto water change and evenly distribute water chemistry. However I want to reduce tank maintanance without high power bills.

     
     
    With a corner divider in each tank, I create an internal chamber containing an auto siphon which will fill and fast drain. 

     
    So top tanks slowly fill until this triggers the auto siphon drain which rapidly empties the corner internal chamber into the tank directly below to produce a quick fill (and stir) followed by a rapid drain into the tier below. If you look at the dark tank picture attached below you can see bottom pipes (45 degree elbowed pipes) which drop into the tanks below. I am able to use a 10,000 LPH pump to clean cost effectively.
     

    The fish love the oxygenation aspects. And I fill the drain chamber with bio balls to make a wet dry flood zone of bio media because it would be a waste of energy not to.
    This creates a noisy system so you do need to love the sound of water.
     
  20. Like
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from chazycraig in Auto Siphons   
    Usage #2 - Rapid sump drainage
    On another system I run 18 x 500L green tubs (9 tonne water). These are circular tubs so very easy to create a circular swirl flow with a tap positioned tangentially. With a central drain pipe and outer sleeve, I can pick up the bottom crap easily. In fact I can harvest fish by pulling both pipes and letting the fish drain out to a collection net in sump as the pipes increase in diameter. This system has automatic water change via a 24/7 constant drip.
     

    One of the problems with this setup is the lack of space under the bottom tubs for a sump. I did not want to cut the concrete slab or put an external sump outside the shed (below ground). There is only 30cm clearance. It is possible to daisy chain several sumps to gain a bigger volume but that creates further issues. And I wanted a glass sump because I harvest fish through the sump. In fact, I empty one tub at a time during harvest by pulling out the central stand pipes drain.
    So my sump needs to be big enough to handle the excess water (overflow from tanks) if a power outage occurs but this is very difficult on small sumps for large volume racks. However with the constant drip water change, the sump is quite full. This is also to safe guard against the pump running dry and burning out.
     

    So I use an auto siphon on the sump which will rapidly drain water during a power outage. This still leaves enough water for the system to restart when the power returns and the drip will top back up within a day.
     

    The U tube is the auto siphon. The adjacent vertical pipe (stand pipe drain) is the water height I want to retain in the sump. There isn't a lot of difference in height but these siphons can be very precise if you design with care. Take note of the siphon break hole on the U tube stem.
    During normal use, the vertical stand pipe drains out the excess water from the constant drip. This does not need to be a big drain as even a slow continual drip can change considerable volumes of water. I set this for 20% daily as these are growout tubs.
    During sudden water height increases, the vertical stand pipe drain can't cope so the water level rises until the auto siphon kicks in. This drops the water level down until the anti siphon hole is reached which breaks the sipon. And if water is still coming in and overwhelms the vertical standpipe drain again, the cycle repeats. This is quite reliable as there are no moving parts.
     
    The photo below may explain better.
    Ignore the downward elbow on closed valve tap as this is to drain the sump completely if I need to clean it. Having tight sump clearances create lots of issues.
    I have started using sumps on steel post (rollers) to slide out now but that's another topic.
     

     
     
  21. Like
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from jc12 in Auto Siphons   
    Usage #2 - Rapid sump drainage
    On another system I run 18 x 500L green tubs (9 tonne water). These are circular tubs so very easy to create a circular swirl flow with a tap positioned tangentially. With a central drain pipe and outer sleeve, I can pick up the bottom crap easily. In fact I can harvest fish by pulling both pipes and letting the fish drain out to a collection net in sump as the pipes increase in diameter. This system has automatic water change via a 24/7 constant drip.
     

    One of the problems with this setup is the lack of space under the bottom tubs for a sump. I did not want to cut the concrete slab or put an external sump outside the shed (below ground). There is only 30cm clearance. It is possible to daisy chain several sumps to gain a bigger volume but that creates further issues. And I wanted a glass sump because I harvest fish through the sump. In fact, I empty one tub at a time during harvest by pulling out the central stand pipes drain.
    So my sump needs to be big enough to handle the excess water (overflow from tanks) if a power outage occurs but this is very difficult on small sumps for large volume racks. However with the constant drip water change, the sump is quite full. This is also to safe guard against the pump running dry and burning out.
     

    So I use an auto siphon on the sump which will rapidly drain water during a power outage. This still leaves enough water for the system to restart when the power returns and the drip will top back up within a day.
     

    The U tube is the auto siphon. The adjacent vertical pipe (stand pipe drain) is the water height I want to retain in the sump. There isn't a lot of difference in height but these siphons can be very precise if you design with care. Take note of the siphon break hole on the U tube stem.
    During normal use, the vertical stand pipe drains out the excess water from the constant drip. This does not need to be a big drain as even a slow continual drip can change considerable volumes of water. I set this for 20% daily as these are growout tubs.
    During sudden water height increases, the vertical stand pipe drain can't cope so the water level rises until the auto siphon kicks in. This drops the water level down until the anti siphon hole is reached which breaks the sipon. And if water is still coming in and overwhelms the vertical standpipe drain again, the cycle repeats. This is quite reliable as there are no moving parts.
     
    The photo below may explain better.
    Ignore the downward elbow on closed valve tap as this is to drain the sump completely if I need to clean it. Having tight sump clearances create lots of issues.
    I have started using sumps on steel post (rollers) to slide out now but that's another topic.
     

     
     
  22. Like
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from jc12 in Auto Siphons   
    Usage #1 - Tank turn over
    To keep the crap off the bottom of glass bottom tanks, most recommend a water flow which turns the tank volume over several times an hour. This stirs the muck into the water column and stops it from settling out so the power filter can pick it up.
    For a 120 litre tank, it is pretty easy to turn over 3 times an hour but this becomes a bit more difficult for a 12,000 L tank or system of tanks. Yes it is possible with big powerful pumps but the running costs become prohibitive. A swim pool pump (high volume - high pressure) for example will do this effortlessly but power consumption is high. It is difficult to find high volume - low pressure water pumps unless you attempt to run several smaller pumps at the same time. Some pond pumps come close and more recent technology has improved this somewhat.
    This is a photo of my goldfish racks. It holds 60 x 200L tanks (90cm x 60cm x 38cm) on three tiers. Goldfish are particularly messy fish.
    The top tier of tanks each recieve a slow water fill from a central sump filter with the water pump. Every tank has air driven sponges, so the sump and water turn over is primarily for auto water change and evenly distribute water chemistry. However I want to reduce tank maintanance without high power bills.

     
     
    With a corner divider in each tank, I create an internal chamber containing an auto siphon which will fill and fast drain. 

     
    So top tanks slowly fill until this triggers the auto siphon drain which rapidly empties the corner internal chamber into the tank directly below to produce a quick fill (and stir) followed by a rapid drain into the tier below. If you look at the dark tank picture attached below you can see bottom pipes (45 degree elbowed pipes) which drop into the tanks below. I am able to use a 10,000 LPH pump to clean cost effectively.
     

    The fish love the oxygenation aspects. And I fill the drain chamber with bio balls to make a wet dry flood zone of bio media because it would be a waste of energy not to.
    This creates a noisy system so you do need to love the sound of water.
     
  23. Like
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from Grover65k in Auto Siphons   
    Usage #1 - Tank turn over
    To keep the crap off the bottom of glass bottom tanks, most recommend a water flow which turns the tank volume over several times an hour. This stirs the muck into the water column and stops it from settling out so the power filter can pick it up.
    For a 120 litre tank, it is pretty easy to turn over 3 times an hour but this becomes a bit more difficult for a 12,000 L tank or system of tanks. Yes it is possible with big powerful pumps but the running costs become prohibitive. A swim pool pump (high volume - high pressure) for example will do this effortlessly but power consumption is high. It is difficult to find high volume - low pressure water pumps unless you attempt to run several smaller pumps at the same time. Some pond pumps come close and more recent technology has improved this somewhat.
    This is a photo of my goldfish racks. It holds 60 x 200L tanks (90cm x 60cm x 38cm) on three tiers. Goldfish are particularly messy fish.
    The top tier of tanks each recieve a slow water fill from a central sump filter with the water pump. Every tank has air driven sponges, so the sump and water turn over is primarily for auto water change and evenly distribute water chemistry. However I want to reduce tank maintanance without high power bills.

     
     
    With a corner divider in each tank, I create an internal chamber containing an auto siphon which will fill and fast drain. 

     
    So top tanks slowly fill until this triggers the auto siphon drain which rapidly empties the corner internal chamber into the tank directly below to produce a quick fill (and stir) followed by a rapid drain into the tier below. If you look at the dark tank picture attached below you can see bottom pipes (45 degree elbowed pipes) which drop into the tanks below. I am able to use a 10,000 LPH pump to clean cost effectively.
     

    The fish love the oxygenation aspects. And I fill the drain chamber with bio balls to make a wet dry flood zone of bio media because it would be a waste of energy not to.
    This creates a noisy system so you do need to love the sound of water.
     
  24. Thanks
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from Grover65k in Auto Siphons   
    Usage #3 - flushing filters
    I will resume this post another day as it is getting late.
  25. Like
    aquaholic99 got a reaction from Slipshodman in Auto Siphons   
    Usage #1 - Tank turn over
    To keep the crap off the bottom of glass bottom tanks, most recommend a water flow which turns the tank volume over several times an hour. This stirs the muck into the water column and stops it from settling out so the power filter can pick it up.
    For a 120 litre tank, it is pretty easy to turn over 3 times an hour but this becomes a bit more difficult for a 12,000 L tank or system of tanks. Yes it is possible with big powerful pumps but the running costs become prohibitive. A swim pool pump (high volume - high pressure) for example will do this effortlessly but power consumption is high. It is difficult to find high volume - low pressure water pumps unless you attempt to run several smaller pumps at the same time. Some pond pumps come close and more recent technology has improved this somewhat.
    This is a photo of my goldfish racks. It holds 60 x 200L tanks (90cm x 60cm x 38cm) on three tiers. Goldfish are particularly messy fish.
    The top tier of tanks each recieve a slow water fill from a central sump filter with the water pump. Every tank has air driven sponges, so the sump and water turn over is primarily for auto water change and evenly distribute water chemistry. However I want to reduce tank maintanance without high power bills.

     
     
    With a corner divider in each tank, I create an internal chamber containing an auto siphon which will fill and fast drain. 

     
    So top tanks slowly fill until this triggers the auto siphon drain which rapidly empties the corner internal chamber into the tank directly below to produce a quick fill (and stir) followed by a rapid drain into the tier below. If you look at the dark tank picture attached below you can see bottom pipes (45 degree elbowed pipes) which drop into the tanks below. I am able to use a 10,000 LPH pump to clean cost effectively.
     

    The fish love the oxygenation aspects. And I fill the drain chamber with bio balls to make a wet dry flood zone of bio media because it would be a waste of energy not to.
    This creates a noisy system so you do need to love the sound of water.
     
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