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About briztoon

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  • Birthday 01/06/1972

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  • Location
    Belmont, Brisbane


  • Interests
    Soccer, reading, SA cichlids
  • Occupation
    Pub Manager

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  1. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a password protected forum. Enter Password
  2. I wonder if your Pelvicachromis might be Pelvicachromis taeniatus "Nigerian red" and not P. pulcher. Check out the profiles and photos at Dwarfcichlid.com. I am currently feeding my Pelvicachromis taeniatus fry a mix of live baby brine shrimp, freeze dried decapsulated baby brine shrimp cysts and Sera micron (powdered fry food). I siphon the bbs from my home made coke bottle hatchery with a 10ml syringe, mix in a small amount of the brine shrimp cysts and Sera micron, then feed directly to the fry. I use a 10ml syringe as it's the perfect size for airline tubing to fit on the end of it. I have a 10cm length of airline tubing on the end of the syringe, which makes it easy to siphon bbs out of the hatchery and aim directly towards the fry in the tank.
  3. Yippee, one of my favourite topics, Goldsaums. Saums with white trim are a naturally occuring colour form of Andinoacara aequinoctalis. In their wild habitat you can find mixed pairings of all the colour forms of Goldsaums. I'll cut and paste a quote from Alf Stalsberg from a similar discussion on another forum; As far as DNA tests are concerned, all Goldsaum colour forms are Andinoacara aequinoctalis and not seperate species. I don't know how long white seam Goldsaums have been in Australia, I only saw my first in about 2007/2008, before that I only ever saw orange seam Goldsaums. I do not know if one seam colour form is dominant over the others when it comes to genetics and what mixed parents will throw. But I would not be surprised if two gold seam parents threw a small percentage of white seam fry occasionally.
  4. Weird thread. One point that I noticed few, if anyone commented on. Some one kept asking why is something so small expensive. The size of something rarely has a bearing on it's value, unless it's in relation to other similar items.
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  7. 6'x18"x28". I've slowly devolved. From large tank to small, to smaller tanks.
  8. Click the LINK kid and start reading. Knowledge is a wonderfull thing.
  9. Hi Bel and welcome to QLDAF. You are in luck, one of the forum sponsors, Fishchick Aquatics, specialises in Bettas and their care. I recommend leaving the boyfriend at home if you visit Fishchicks, as you will behave like a little girl in a candy store when you see all the fancy Bettas. david1991 is correct in that you can buy most of what you will need much cheaper, with just a little research. First place to start would be forum sponsor Redlands Pet Centre, Russ and the team offer fantastic discounts to QLDAF members. All you need to do is mention you are QLDAF member to the staff. For a single male Betta, a 2 foot tank is very large, you could happily look at a smaller 18inch by 9inch by 9inch tank. As for equipment, Bettas do not like lots of water movement, so a small sponge filter and air pump is fine, or maybe a small HOB (hang on the back) filter will be fine. And as mentioned, you will only need a heater in the cooler months. Next thing for you to research is MTS (Multiple Tank Syndrome)
  10. All you need is lots of branchy wood (I hear you have a killer piece already) and java moss (I know of a pool with lotttsss in it). No fancy lights or anything. You already have a nice white sand substrate. So I'll buy the colony of 40 apistos, you just need to buy the 100+ coral red pencilfish.
  11. And well worth bringing up again. Someone needs to take "Bender - Bite my shiny metal" out of their avatar.
  12. Well this voyeur is starting to get withdrawl symptons.
  13. I'm not sure if it's really a concern. My understanding is that fronies are deep water African lake cichlids, so aren't substrate dwellers. Now in the home aquarium this is different. What ever option you go for, you want one that doesn't allow waste (uneaten food and excrement) to filter down through the substrate, but rather sit on top. This way it's either propelled towards a filter/sump intake or easily vacuumed up during a water change.
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