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MFF

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MFF last won the day on August 4 2020

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About MFF

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    Junior Member

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  • Interests
    600L Mixed Malawi
    600L Planted Discus and Rainbows
    600L Mild-mannered Americans
  • Location
    Parkinson
  • State
    Queensland

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  1. As I've recently upgraded to Fluval FX4s, I now have for sale my old Nautilus 2700 UVC filters. These were purchased new and have run for 2.5 years on my 6 foot tanks without trouble. They were working without problems when I swapped them over to the Fluvals in the past week or two. (Although I don't know if the UV part is still working - the bulbs may have burned out long time ago as I left the UV on continuously). Two complete filters available, including all hoses, pipes and media. $100 each. I also have parts of a third - which could be used for spare parts - includes the rotor assembly for example, spare baskets and sponges, various other bits. Take the lot for $150, pickup in Parkinson.
  2. Thanks for the update JB. I'm optimistic I'll get this right next time.
  3. Ouch! My tanks (not water changes) are only about 2000 liters total. I can still blame the water bill on her ladyship's garden!! My tub of Fraction-D should last me 5 years or more. Once I get the process sorted of how to mix and dose it. Hopefully next water change we'll be right.
  4. On a positive note - the severums which I've had for nearly 2 years and are FINALLY getting to a decent size have all come out to eat this morning. So I'm optimistic they'll pull through. I won't count my chickens for another couple of days though.
  5. Well, I talked this over with a mate who is not a fishkeeper, but is a research chemist working in a lab. Most likely hypothesis we ended on was perhaps "clumping" of the powder so that it did not dissolve correctly, initially. I thought it had dissolved, but in the absence of a better theory, I'm going with this. Warning to self: Shake vigorously before use!!
  6. Yes, it's about 15% of the cost. That was the motivation for trying the dry form. Well - it would be 15% of the cost if it didn't kill my fish!!! Just done my third and final tank, with double my calculated dose. That tank all looks fine, but they're Africans - possibly less sensitive? Don't know, but it is very frustrating.
  7. Has anyone had an issue using the dry form of Fraction-D dechlorinator? I've just changed the water in two tanks, and I've lost nearly 20 rainbowfish in one tank, and several severums in the second tank are looking very unwell. It's almost as if the dechlorinator doesn't work at all. This is the first time I've used the dry form - had the liquid form for a couple of years. I've checked and double checked the dosage I'm using, and chucked in a double dose for good measure (in the second tank). Nothing else is different in the way I do the water changes, unless Brisbane water is particularly iffy at the moment???
  8. Water hardness is from various salts (esp Calcium salts) dissolved in the water. Trouble is, these salts are very soluble. So they're hard to remove. I'm assuming your tap water comes from a bore or something? Town water should not be that hard. If you're using town water, then the hardness could come from something you've added to the tank, e.g. one of the rocks or gravel. Have you measured the hardness of the tap water before it goes in the tank? One option is to use 50/50 tap water and soft water during water changes. Soft water can be either rain water or tap water filtered through a RODI filter. Best not use 100% totally ion free water, because you don't want zero hardness in the tank either. This is what I do for my discus tank, 50% RODI. However, if the fish are used to the current water, and are behaving normally, it may not be a problem at all.
  9. Yup, that's what I did in the end. First half of sand was easy, with a 1 L jug. After that it got harder, and eventually I siphoned the last bits out. Just took a LOT longer than I expected, overall. The tank is in the study, on carpet, so I needed to be very careful about spills.
  10. I've done this about 6 months ago. Tank was 2 years established, and I wanted to replace the very fine black sand with a more stable fine gravel. It's a 6 foot, 600L tank with severums, blue acara, ellioti, silver dollars and a few other things. My process was as follows. 1) timing - don't start this process right after cleaning the filter. You want the filter well and truly loaded up with beneficial bacteria, so it can colonise the new substrate quickly. I did mine 3 months after the last clean of the canister filter. 2) Wash all the new substrate properly in tap water, then rinse with tank water. Do this first, to make the change over as quick as possible. 3) remove all rocks and bogwood, store in tank water during the process. Keeps the wood wet and anything on there alive. I didn't have any plants in that tank, which would have complicated things. 4) remove the existing sand - this took about 4 times as long as I expected!!! Removing gravel would be much easier. 5) Plonk in the washed new substrate (fine gravel), restore the rocks/wood, and top up the tank as required. 6) Do NOT clean the filter for at least a few weeks. Throughout, the fish remained in the tank. This process worked well, there were no losses. In fact no stressed behaviour at all AFTER the rocks/logs were returned - obviously while the tank was empty and I was mucking about in there, I don't think any of the fish were too happy, but nothing long term. The Ellioti spawned within a few days of the process. Monitoring water parameters afterwards showed no interruption to the nitrogen cycle. Don't know if the precautions I took are all strictly necessary, but better safe than sorry. Hardest part of the process was getting the last 10% of the old sand out.
  11. Absolutely agree - discus are not a reasonable choice for 40L, and angel fish also get much too big for 40L. Your previous experience with betta might have coloured your perception on how much water a fish needs. Betta can survive in very tiny amounts of water - but they will also do much better in a larger tank. For 40 L, I'd suggest only look at fish that stay small. Perhaps another betta, and then some tetras or rasboras are nice. The biggest fish I kept long term in my 80L tank (my smallest) was a dwarf gourami.
  12. Agree with both the previous comments. In terms of other fish to add - I like the Rainbow Cichlids (Herotilapia multispinosa) I have with my severums. They stay small, nice colour, and they sort of school. Otherwise perhaps one of the larger tetras, like Colombian?
  13. The larger water volume will definitely be more stable in terms of parameters. If you used to do 25% weekly change on the 15 gallon tank, and you're now putting the same fish in a 50 gallon, you would not need to do the same water changes. Of course, if you give in to the temptation to add more fish.... Another option to consider would be 12.5% weekly - that's 24 liters, or 3 buckets, each week. That's what I used to do years ago when I had a tank that size.
  14. I've never had a tank without fish - but I imagine in a plant only tank (or tub), water changes would not be necessary. There is no waste created that needs removing. Even circulation I think might not be strictly necessary for the plants, although they might do better with it. I would think some surface agitation would be useful to avoid mosquito breeding in the tub, that would be a more important reason. So if you're going to put a pump in there, I'd be sure to agitate the surface enough to disrupt the mozzies.
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