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About Leigh

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  • Birthday 02/09/1983

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  • Location
    Bray Park, Brisbane
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  • Interests
    fish tanks and bike racing
  • Occupation
    Australian Defence Force Contractor

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  1. Just run purigen in your filter.... that's the only thing i use as far as chemical filtration goes.... never have i had a single problem while running it.
  2. personally i don't mind snails... although the tiny little pest snails can be unsightly if they have an explosion... if you don't like them the best treatment is a natural one, put a few kuhli loach or if you have a decent sized tank... a clown loach or two. Clown loaches do the best job but a few kuhli loach will keep those snails in check as they eat them when they are small; just don't put more food in for them. some snails like malaysian trumpet snails are a good one to have in the tank.
  3. If you still have it in your budget pick up a PH Controller for your cO2 solenoid... best thing i ever purchased. I have the UP Aqua reg, solenoid and PH Controller.... keeps me in the perfect range day and night, algae is now basically eradicated...
  4. Anyone have any idea where I can get some Bloodworms/Bristleworm in the brisbane area? i know sometimes you end up with them in the food or on plants but i'm not having any luck finding any LFS that have them live, they only seem to have the black worms which aren't suitable for what i want to do. or... alternatively can someone suggest a good worm for my substrate to keep it aerated? Thanks
  5. ground cover is going to be your issue with 2 x t8.... they tend to grow upwards with low light instead of along the bottom... how deep is your tank?
  6. hahahaha i had a massive Chinese algae eater, no joke it was as thick as much thumb and about 8" long... they do continue to eat algae but after they finish being small they uproot everything by swimming through it too vigorously. they also do become aggressive to other fish when they are the alpha bottom feeder. your better off going 5 otto over 2 or 3 CAE
  7. Nice... I use that reactor on a 80L .... only have to run 1 bubble per second... and that's pumping in huge amounts of co2
  8. When did you last change the water in your indicator? The co2 check is just taken off ph.... and eventually the water goes bad and needs to be changed...... I used to change mine fortnightly.... Now I just don't run one and go by the fish and plants... if fish aren't gasping it's all good... and you can never have too much co2
  9. If you are handy with a soldering iron you could use 3 xml series leds on a heatsink... run it with a buckblock and a dim4 Total cost would be 140 dollars and you can set sunrise and sunset as well as light intensity
  10. I bought the mykegonlegs 6.8kg bottle from brewers choice for 350... That's lasted me for 2 years... and it was 50 to swap for a full
  11. Get rid of the actinic... it does nothing for your plants
  12. If your doing alot of fertilizing then I'd go dry ferts.... you can get them from aquagreen... and potassium nitrate off ebay Much cheaper than buying brand name... I think I bought a kilo ot each that I needed 2years ago and I still have about 700g left for a total coadt of 80 dollars
  13. I get mine from a company in victoria... cutter.com.au You can use the buckblock drivers... I have 2 buckblock 2100mA running 8 xml series 2.... they can do 5 leds each.... or if ypu don't want sunrise and sunset you could buy an ac led driver... they do up to 16 leds in serial... or you can run the setups in parallel..... they aren't very expensive but you'll need to have a timer on those. The led controllers thougb have to come from the states and a dim4 will set you back a hundred with shipping
  14. You could build a custom led setup... they are pretty easy to do...then order a dimmer controller for sunrise and sunset..... whole thing would only cost you 300 and you could grow anything!
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