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About MakuCentauri

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  1. Ha! Yeah, don't want to 'vary' myself into a giant hole in the floor!
  2. Hi all, I'm in the process of buying a house and it's one of those with a wooden floor supported by brick piers. Now my biggest tank is 2m x 76cm x 76cm - so about a 1000 litres. That's a huge amount of weight combined with the sump, the tank itself + contents and I'd really rather not have to deal with my tank tearing a huge hole in my floor as it plunges into the crawlspace….. What are people's thoughts on floor reinforcement? Anyone had to deal with similar? Thanks!
  3. Damn! I learned this lesson recently with my pbass juries - one of them tried to eat a Cory and ended up swimming around with it hanging out of his mouth. The Cory had deployed its spines and they were sticking out the side of the pbass's head with the dead Cory just rotting in the pbass's mouth. Had to do a bit of home surgery with pliers and tweezers to snip off the spines and then wiggle the dead Cory out. Luckily for me the pbass made a full recovery.
  4. You could always try Livefish.com.au - they ship just about everywhere and are pretty reliable.
  5. I've looked at getting some of these a while ago, but couldn't find any real info on keeping them other than the usual 'must have sand substrate' type stuff. Anyone know anything more substantial like feeding or water conditions/temperature?
  6. I like the backup method too. My main heater is a 1000w titanium beast - has an external LED controller and a temperature probe. I put the probe in the tank and the heater in the sump - that way the heater stays on till the temp in the tank is correct - not just the sump. I have the external controller attached to the front of my stand so I can always see the temp. If the temp drops more the 0.5 degrees below the set temp it switches on. I have a standard 300w as a back up set two degrees lower just for safety - don't think it's actually come on once but it's good for peace of mind.
  7. If you're going to put 40 litres of K1 in there you may want a bit more air than 9 ltrs per min. The usual recommended rate for square containers like a sump is 1-to-1 air to K1. Personally I found that to be a bit much so you could probably get away with a bit less, but I'm not sure how much movement/aeration you'll get with 9 ltrs of air trying to move 40 ltrs of K1. I probably would try to get something a little stronger up front - you can always bleed off a bit of air if it's too much, but if you find you don't have enough air to start with you'll have to get a whole new or additional pump. Had a quick look at AoA and they've got a Resun model up around 20 ltrs per minute which is probably a better bet. I haven't calculated the area you've allocated for the K1, but you should be aiming for about 40% water to 60% K1 also. As for keeping the K1 in the chamber....well it can be a bit tricky. Fresh, uncycled K1 has an annoying habit of climbing up walls. You'll get bits stuck to the wall, which get bumped up by ones below, which then move up the wall themselves and so on and so on - as that continues you'll get quite a few bits climbing up. Once it's cycled it doesn't really do that though. Best bet would be chuck in 20 ltrs of K1 and gradually add by handfuls as it settles down. If you give the K1 a good rinse in warm water it tends to settle faster I've found. Just keep tweaking the amount of K1 and air and you'll reach a happy equilibrium.
  8. I presume the 4ft tank is going and that's why you're shifting the fish to the 3ft? Or is it just that the 4ft is in the spot you're putting the 6ft? At any rate, if you've got a 3ft full of your existing water and a fully seeded canister filter then I don't know that you'd have to do much in the way of cycling. If you set up the 6ft and then mix together the water from the 3ft and new water you should be able to just shift everything across more or less straight away. The 3ft water and fresh water is just like you were doing a water change on your tank as normal. Combined with the already cycled canister, you should be pretty much good to go. I'd put the sponge from the internals in the 3 ft while you're setting up the 6ft too. Then you just pop it back into the internals and use that in the 6ft too once it's ready. That's basically what I did when moving my fish from a 500ltr to a 1000ltr tank - 50% old water + 50% new + cycled canister = no problems. Only thing that would possibly be an issue is the discus - I know they can be twitchy about water quality but that's about it (they bore the piss out of me personally so I don't keep them). Probably best to check with someone else who keeps them just to be sure. Can't help with flushing the substrate - I don't really see how you could rinse it and not kill the bacteria without using tank water. I don't do planted tanks though so maybe there's someone else who can think of some cunning plan.
  9. Damn that's some serious filtration! I've just finished putting together my new system with K1. I've got my outflows going to a 100litre plastic rainwater container (with filter sock) that leads through to a 60 litre plastic barrel with K1 that leads to a second 60 litre barrel with K1 that leads on to my sump then back to the tank. I've got about 75 litres of K1 across the two barrels and each barrel has a 20-litre-per-minute flat airstone to keep it all moving (running off a HiBlo HP40). I put the old media from the sump in the 100 litre and I'm planning to use the sump (currently empty except for heater and pump) to grow some plants and as a holding tank for feeders. It's taken me a while to get it all working properly, but it's going pretty well now.
  10. I use bulkheads on my tanks but I am using some uniseals on my filtration system which includes a couple of 60 litre plastic barrels full of K1. The uniseals are great for curved surfaces like the plastic barrels, but I wouldn't use them in situations where a bulkhead would work. Bulkheads are more secure as fittings and way easier to install/remove. Pushing any real length of pipe through a tight uniseal is a major pain in the arse and it's just as bad pulling it back out/off. I'd be too paranoid pushing pvc through a tight uniseal on a glass tank - putting the amount of force you need to shove the pipe through at a weak point in a piece of glass...no thanks...
  11. If you're looking to import Eheim it's much better to get European models which use the same voltage even if you still need a plug adaptor. I imported both my 2080s from Germany at about half the local online price (even with the freight). You can PM me for details if you want. It is true that it could pose a warranty issue. But as everyone says - Eheims don't typically fail and at those prices you could afford to buy a spare and pay no more than the local costs.
  12. I shop for fish/equipment the same way I shop for everything - I go where the price and/or the service is the best. I like to support my LFS because they give great service and are always happy to help out with advice etc so I buy fish from them when the price is competitive. I'm okay with paying a little extra per fish because I can see the fish before I get them and take them home straight away. But if I can find fish at a really great price at an online store or on a forum then I'll buy from there. Same thing for hardware - I recently bought over $1k worth of lighting from the LFS because the price was close enough to online prices and I'd rather be able to just go back to the store and sort out warranty issues with people I know and trust if I need to. I buy all my fish food from Australian online stores like AoA because the price is way better than in stores and I can bulk buy. On the other hand, when I was looking to buy a couple of canister filters I ended up having a pair of Eheim 2080s shipped from Germany for half the price they are online in Aus.
  13. I've seen it done using mangroves - but that's the only salt-tolerant plant I know of people using
  14. Not sure what you're on about with the fish? Shouldn't have fish in the filter at all - only the tank - especially with a small filter like that. Plants in the hang-on filter can be good for water quality as Aqua Addict said. On my turtle tank I have the return from my canister filter split between the spraybar and a second line which feeds into a DIY overtank trough with hydroton substrate and a mix of Pothos and Peace Lilly plants. The water travels through the substrate and plant roots then out the other end to drain back into the tank. The plants pull nitrates out of the water as it passes through. With your aquaclear you could do much the same. Just stick some plants in the filter media area and run it as normal. It won't be much of a mechanical filter but it will help water quality. It's best if you have something in there to anchor the plant roots - you could just use some normal glass noodle media for that.
  15. I've got a decent sized eastern longneck named Schnork with various fish. For some reason Schnork doesn't touch catfish (bristle nose, various Cori) even though they are bite sized - in general though if the fish is small enough to fit in the turtle's mouth then it probably will end up getting eaten.. If the fish are too big to be swallowed though Schnork completely ignores them. I've had Schnork with a variety of cichlids - JDs, Sevrums, Chocolate cichlids, Texas etc and he hasn't so much as bitten one.
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