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Everything posted by none

  1. Sorry mate still dealing with cyclone issues here only just saw the tag - as Winston said sounds like swim bladder unlikely to 'heal' in the sense that it will revert back to normal swimming position. Have you added small amount of salt?
  2. Aggression: Aulonocara, Ottopharynx and Protomelas go straight for the eyes. They'll likely keep attacking the eye too. Yes Tri-Sulpha would help but not if the other fish keep picking on it.. Sometimes they'll lose the eye and be ok other times they will die. Tri-sulpha and salt in a quarantine tank would be a good option. Don't think I'd bother with TS in main tank though. If your only option is leaving in main tank I'd add salt but expect to lose the fish.
  3. As well as your heater you answered your own question in initial post - they don't like the intensity of your lighting..
  4. No insurance on perishables - sent entirely at senders risk
  5. As @Lictoga identified these are a species that live in massive communities in the wild. Small juveniles can school in the thousands - as they get bigger they have more territory to themselves but still live in close proximity to others. The light substrate is not ideal and the tank is too bright for them. They like a lot of driftwood - smaller pieces they can get into and under and a med brown gravel is better for their colour.
  6. All Mudskipper spp., will do that. King Mudskippers (N.T) are very expensive and rarely available as the freight is very high, and not enough interest in them to justify breeding. Need a massive tank too - can get bigger than 45
  7. Many choices - Empire Gudgeons, Ambassis Glass Fish / Glassy Perchlets, Hardyheads. If you want to do your bit to help an endangered species Honey Blue Eyes are an option - they are protected and can't be bought or sold however there are members on here in Bris that breed and may give you some. Another fish to consider Rhadinocentrus ornatus - only a matter of time before they too become endangered - some populations already wiped out. Don't catch in the wild - plenty of locally bred fish in SEQ. Just put one species per pond if using either of the latter.
  8. Mudskippers are way more entertaining - way more colourful and are bred here and readily available
  9. Good advice above. The lack of oxygen is the issue when tanks get hot. Make sure you have additional aeration. Water changes are the first thing I'd do regardless - yes they should reduce your water temp but also will improve water chemistry and remove / dilute potential toxins. When you clean your filters be sure to do so in tank water - not tap water - or if using tap water add neutraliser first.
  10. Whilst I agree with the above - shape is off for a brasiliensis - I'd like to see other photos as based on that one pic - I'd be inclined to say hybrid Brazil x ? Head hump and mouth are wrong too. May be riviulatus x but I can almost see Red Hump in there.. is it just me?
  11. Do a waterchange, add salt. Bacterial infections often inflict goldfish when the temp gets hot. Increase aeration. I'd recommend treating it with a broad spectrum anti-bacterial treatment available from any aquarium shop.
  12. Hi mate - honestly - from remembering the basics of your earlier posts - and with the above in mind - I would say that the fish are indeed most likely the issue. I would never advise buying new fish and putting them in without quarantining for a minimum (absolute minimum of 4weeks - ideally 6 -8 weeks though). With the Peacocks you don't really have an effective "control" to test the theory as you don't know what if any diseases they may be carrying. You probably wont want to hear this but if it were my tank - I'd chlorinate and start again.
  13. Are these the same Frontosa you've been having issues with for some time? (Think I recall earlier posts regarding issues with them..?) I don't know where you got them from but it could well be that they were not in good health when you bought them. Could also be that they didn't take well to the adjustment to a new environment. What were they being fed before you got them and what are you feeding them? May pay to buy a cheap microscope and have a look inside one. You may not even need a scope - accumulation of fluids internally for example are easy to see with the naked eye.
  14. Dunno - I'd rather the Macrobrachium myself.. although I doubt the poster would share my view...
  15. Doing waterchanges won't crash your filter. I do near full waterchanges weekly. Cleaning the filter media in untreated water can make it crash but just doing waterchanges with matched parameters will not.
  16. "popeye" really needs more definition ideally long with photos. Swollen eyes can be caused by a number of factors ranging from aggression to an accumulation of body fluids causing bloating of the body and bulging of the eyes. More info needed..
  17. Very nice. Got some different varieties of large display fish available if interested as I'm pulling down a couple of displays myself. Cheers
  18. May be the heat. Do you still have salt in the water? Like 'Bows Goldfish respond well to small amounts of salt in the water. Increase aeration.
  19. Biggest issue I see is that optimum conditions for Rams are at polar opposites to livebearers and Glassy Perchlets / Glassfish. That being said you already have Neons in there but if we are talking imported Rams and your water is not ideal you may have serious issues with them. If you can buy locally bred Rams raised in similar conditions you may have more success. At what pH / hardness do you maintain your tank?
  20. The beauty of quarantining new fish (apart from the acclimatization process) is that it gives you a chance to see potential diseases (and treat) before introducing them to your main tank. pH shock is a massive stressor on fish and definitely can kill them. A drop from Brisbane tap water (7.8 for example) to 6.0 is absolutely massive. That in itself will severely weaken fish leaving them vulnerable to infection if not immediately fatal. Add any other stressors - aggression - change of diet etc etc etc and therein lies the issue. It's actually amazing they are not dieing instantly. With that being the case I imagine that are you acclimatizing them very slowly - would that be correct?
  21. Are they all good now? If not Tri-Sulpha in conjuction with the salt will clear it up quickly.
  22. Probably better off setting up a quarantine tank with pH and hardness matching your suppliers parameters. Gradually then acclimatize the new fish while in quarantine to the conditions you will ultimately be keeping them at. Be selective with species. Many barbs will not thrive in those conditions. Cheers
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