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Bubblegirl

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About Bubblegirl

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  • Birthday 01/08/1973

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  • Location
    St Lucia
  • State
    QLD

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  1. Hi there, I have a question, please, about the best size of sump pump for a tank with African cichlids. It's a 3000L tank (~11 x 3 x 3 foot), and the sump water is returned to the tank with a Laguna that shifts 11000 L/hr. That turns over the tank volume in ~15 mins, and makes a strong current, sufficient to shift the gravel around the tank I'm worried that this current will be too strong for African cichlids, as I want to keep frontosas and blue dolphins. The previous owners had a large Arawana and sting rays. So my questions is - how best to reduce the flow rate of the existing pump or is it better to buy a less powerful pump? If so what would be a good size/flow rate to go for? Thanks for your advice! Cheers!
  2. Thought I'd update this just for anyone interested or who may have a simialr problem. I swicthed from metro in the water to metro in the food. Dosed according to a protocol I finally found in Merck's vet manual - 50 mg of metro per kg of fish per day. I cut the tablet up so they were approximately the correct dose, then each feed dissolved them in bottled water and soaked the pellets in the medication. He at them no problem and improved much more quickly than when the medication was just in the water. If the fish is eating I think this is a much better way of doing things - uses much less medication (need a few tablets versus boxes of the stuff), gets it to where it needs to go so works better, doesn't cause bacterial blooms in the water and means you don't have to be doing a big water change every day. The hole in the head has almost vanished and he seems back to his usual self. I treated for 10 days. Hope this information might be of use to someone else.
  3. Thanks everyone, Thought I would do an update. He seems to be improving - still eating and no more stringy poos. He's much more reactive and not just hanging in the corner of the tank all the time. I've done 3 days of metro - and I'll keep treating for at least another 3-5 days. Fingers crossed he continues to improve.
  4. Poo has now become stringy and hanging down from vent. From my reading on Flowerhorns this is probably hexamita but not responding to metro in the water. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  5. Hi, I bought a flowerhorn from a member of this forum 2.5 weeks ago. I've run into trouble quickly and need some advice from someone knowledgable about flowerhorns otherwise I'm going to lose this fish. He is an adult male over 30 cm long. He is on his own in a 6x2x2 - I have the water at 29-30 degrees, ammonia 0 and nitrate 10-20 ppm. I bought cycled filter media with him, so there was no ammonia spike or anything when transferred from the old owner to my tank. I have done two 25-30% water changes (water temp matched) since getting him. I was feeding him a food from rarefishfood that the seller supplied me but am in the process of switching to hikari cichlid gold. I have kept other fish for many years but not flowerhorns before. Since getting him he has never been very active and I wasn't sure if this was normal for flowerhorns. But he would swim over when something attracts his attention and would always be waiting for food in the morning. Eating fine, normal looking poo. Feeding him 4 3mm pellets/day as per old owner. On Sunday I started to become a bit concerned as I thought his breathing looked a little more laboured. On Tuesday I noticed a small hole had opened up below his Kok, with a tiny pin sized hole beside it. Prior to the hole forming I had noticed like small pimple. Looks like HITH to me. At that point he was still eating and behaving normally. By Wednesday he was looking worse - hanging at the back of the tank, less reactive to stimulii, but still eating. On Wednesday I started treatment with the best information I could find from a sticky from Den on Flowerhorn Fun - which was metronidazole 400 mg per 40 litres - suggested regime water change and repeat every 48 hours. Today he was still eating this morning but colours fading fast and more lethargic. He ate tonight but only by hand feeding. Still pooing but they look smaller in diameter. I have started to change his food because of the possible dietary component but haven't switched over in one go. I have human metronidazole and can get enough to treat my tank (I've reduced the volume to 400 litres but don't want to stress him more by putting him in a smaller tank) every second day for about 8 days. Treating orally would be better but I can't find any suggested dosing regimes and the window on that is rapidly closing because I think he'll stop eating soon. Any help in the way of suggested treatment regimes would be much appreciated. I would be really sad to lose such a large and beautiful fish so soon.
  6. My indoor goldfish tank is currently 32 degrees. they're ok. Remember lots of goldfish come from Thailand where it's always hot. If you do want to cool the water though, don't put ice or iced bottles in the tank as this causes the water to stratify - the warm water rises and there will be cold pockets in the bottom of the tank. It's worse for the fish to be swimming in an out of cold pockets than for the water to be warmer than is ideal. The best way to cool a tank is to angle a fan (like a pedestal fan) so that it blows over the surface of the water. This will reduce the temp by 1-2 degrees. Just make sure the fan can't fall into the tankl!
  7. Hi, I'm setting up an African tank and I want to have 5-6 Blue dolphins as the centrepiece. I was wondering what other fish go well with them? My tank is a 6x2x2 foot and minus gravel and rocks will be around 530 litres. Any suggestions about stocking densities. Also does anyone keep plecos with their Africans? Thanks in advance, Nicola
  8. Khuli loaches are cool - I've kept them before. But I've wanted a pleco for years and this is the first time I've had a big enough tank.
  9. Hi, I have a 6x2x2 tank that I'm looking to restock and I've been thinking about getting a pleco. However, I want one that's going to top out at around 30 cm (not 45 cm!) and was wondering what species people would suggest? I was wondering if a chocolate pleco would fit the bill. I also like the gold albino plecos but I'm not sure what species they are and whether they would be likely to grow larger than 30 cm? Also wondering about suitable tankmates. I was thinking about the more peaceful Lake Malawi cichlids but would the KH of the water be too high for a pleco? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
  10. Hi, I have 3 large pearscales for sale down in the trader thread. Theres a photo there if you want to see what they look like. I currently have them in a 6 by 2 by 2 but have decided I want to do something else with the tank. I really just want a good home for these fish so if anyone can provide good digs for them let me know. Cheers.
  11. Hi, I'm sorry you lost your favourite fish. I also keep goldfish. I suspect that your four comets simply outgrew their tank, leading to high nitrates and thus fin rot. Because the light was off you missed it until it was quite advanced. Goldfish need a lot of water per fish because they produce a lot of waste. I run my tanks at 150-200 litres a fish and still change 80% of the water every week without fail. Don't be hard on yourself - it's all a learning curve. If your two comets make it I wouldn't add anymore fish to that tank and they should do better for awhile, but keep in mind comets grow into pretty big fish and sooner or later they probably really need a pond.
  12. When you test for nitrate with the API test kit do you shake the bottle and then the vial for the required amount of time? I think it's 30 seconds for one of the bottles and 60 seconds for the vial but I always have to check the instructions when I do it. If you don't shake the chemicals as directed the test doesn't work. Even out of the tap the water is usually 5 ppm for nitrates.
  13. Unfortunately that does look like a swim bladder issue. It is hard to get good goldfish in Australia and we often get sent the culls, or what should have been culls, hence you might get a tank where all or most fish are affected. There really isn't anything that can be done - I have had a few live head down for several years and seem quite happy, but once they are on their side it's much harder as they'll get infections in the area they lie on. That is the same problem with the harnesses - they rub on the fish and cause skin breakdown which inevitably leads to infection. As long as he doesn't seem to be suffering you can keep him but obviously there will come a point where it will be kinder to euthanise. I wish I had better news.
  14. Hi, Based on your pictures I don't think it looks like anchor worm, but checkout the thread Dan suggested above just to be sure. It could be normal wen growth, but to me it looks more like an infection of the wen. To begin with I would start by making sure your water quality is really good - goldfish do need a lot of water per fish (much more than tropicals) and a lot of large water changes to keep nitrates down. (I change about 75% of the water in my tank each week and that's a 350 litre tank with only two large fish in it) Whenever I have a problem I usually start by changing 50% of the water every couple of days. I would also start by salting with aquarium salt to 0.1% and then you can increase it to 0.3% over another few days and see how that goes. I buy salt for livestock from a produce store because it is much cheaper that way. If you do think it's an infection and salt doesn't cut it, triple sulphur might be your next best bet but I would do that in a quarantine tank because it will affect the bacteria in your filtration. You can also get methylene blue and catch the fish and drop some concentrated straight from the bottle onto the affected area. Good luck and let us know how you go.
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