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DanesFish

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About DanesFish

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    Member

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  • Location
    Brisbane
  • State
    Qld

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  • Biography
    Newbie but hard at work with Blue dolphin. Azureus. Kribensis. Clown loach. Red tail shark. Kuhli loach. 7 bar Frontosa. Cuckoo Catfish. O.B peacock. FlameTail peacock. Red Empress + pair Clownfish. & more fry then I know what to do with lol
  • Interests
    Activist for proper pet care, as I care for the Mater Childrens Hospital fish tank
  • Occupation
    European/American Automotive Parts Interpreter.
  1. I have crossed obs with Aulonocara stuartgranti *to create a hybrid that I hope will be stunners but incase they turn out poo I will destroy everyone I don't keep. I believe it to be my own responsibility not to release these mutts into the general public for the respect I have for other true species By destroying unwanted hybid fish I believe I am protecting pure breeds from being phased out or out competed in the future Pure beeds deserve to have a place as much as any hybrid but further more pure breeds deserve to be protected from people like me Meaning pure breeds are less likely to crossbreed with my mutts if mutts are not over populating the industry Feel free to change my view as I'm still somewhat new to aquariums
  2. I understand that air turbulence in a protein skimmer captures much of the lighter protein molecules for esierly removal. My question is violent turbulence more effective then just bubbles in general..? As I've found people on YouTube makeup DIY skimmers using only an air stone. Claiming their designs as effective.. Keeping in mind the design I have in mind are of a mini scale skimmer.
  3. Okay I've excepted that live rock won't resolve nitrates alone. I've excepted that the entire chemical balance must be replenished. I've excepted that skimming and water changes are essential long term. I'm considering extending bio filtration via reactor and setting up heating and chilling prior to increasing lighting output. As much as a sump would make a world of difference, I am simply declined to increase this tank volume or create a difference in water levels at this stage. I love the idea of running a hiden system that would quadruple the visible volume enabling much stability and tech assistance. So I'm going to start by much more frequent water changes and get a builtin skimmer. Go back to using activated carbon and frequent detritus removal and then reward myself by going out and getting some more sensitive Lps corals. As well as exspensive reef test kit, red sea I think it is..? I appreciate all of your input to this stupid experiment of mine, now that I see the bigger picture I feel pretty poo about my attitude and thank you for not abusing me, I can't say I would've been so kind to someone doing what I've done lol I honestly know better then this but was just blown away by the strength of wild caught clownfish as I have large clown loaches that are far far far more sensitive to nitrates. You've all been very informative and I will continue to revise this thread in relation to further decisions, I now see a little more clearly the difference between nano & pico, as in my 80 gallon I will have much technology integrated to further sustain the increased bio load. Cheers guys!!!
  4. Yeah true, I should just get better coral. But these nitrates must be rectified first.
  5. I use to live three levels up only by stairs, I would everyweek without fail rain hail or shine collect ocean water with a contraption I devised because during bad weather I could have easily been killed between huge swell and boulders. I would filter the water by 50microns and use it. collecting and performing 100% water changes gave me very simular results to minimal water changes and rainwater top off. whats possible is the key to finding to balance and actual maintenance requirement given the species. this frogspawn looked like this today and looked the same when I performed weekly WC and daily topoff siphoning cleaning and sterilising polishing pad. to get the same results. "the last shot was because I only just manually switched the light on" I've noticed frogspawn can last weeks/months without food or light. being it also gives off a chemical warfare Its really no good to me and I should get other softies. meaning frogspawn and clownfish and bristle starfish and dancing shrimp are just not sensitive enough as I do weekly top offs no water changing and very little polish pad cleaning. at this rate only phosphate and nitrate removal is required to function indefinitely, with that said only dosing, temperature control and lighting can complete my ability to attempt more sensitive species. I only want to do as required, if that means 100% wc bi~weekly to keep Sps then so be it, but not 80gallons and not for fun. I currently perform 50% wc in 80gallon cichlid tank every 3~4days so I am by no means lazy, I guess I just want to better understand whats possible.
  6. Probably a dumb replybut, kribensis maybe.. I have one in a most malawi tank. She does quite nicely for self in a way of territory but needs atleast one hide IMO.
  7. Does this replace live rock in pico / nano ..?
  8. I often use hydrochloric acid in a syringe to kill live rock pests once I remove the rock from the tank, rinse and quickly add back into the tank before it dries out, only killing the effected area. I guess if I were to treat the entire rock no beneficial bacteria would remain or anything else for that fact but that's kind of my intention to bring the rock back to new giving bacteria a fresh start with maximum flow, its an extreme and risky measure but I bet it would be effective over the long run to encourage denitrification as long as the exterior growth rate is slower then the internal bacteria growth rate, how much different would it be from adding more live rock and slowly remove existing live rock just because its becoming less efficient at removing nitrates. I guess the sand isn't doing any good so I'll syphon it out, I use to have a clean up crew and syphon detritus weekly but noticed that it would dissolve if left to and would just become nitrates and phosphates. then after the denitrification process only phosphates would remain encouraging algae being a phosphate indicator given correct lighting of course. I'm wiry of DIY denitrate reactors as they could easily cause hydrogen gas if not setup correctly, but I am interested in the mini chiller could you help me find the guy who makes them..?
  9. I was thinking of taking one rock out at a time (over many weeks/months) to dip in hydrochloric acid just to bring em' back to new. or I could just spray the exterior of rock with acid to clean off the bio material which I suspect is reducing nitrates penetrating deep into the rock, even tho osmotic pressure would eventually drag nitrates deep into the rock I still feel high pressure from high flow would assist much more efficiently therefore less growth would equal less resistance in allowing nitrates to reach denitrification bacteria. pH was 8.4 now is 8.2 due to nitrates around 80 ppm 12 moths ago my nitrates never went above 10 ppm.. I believe was down to high flow rate within a small aquarium driving water deep into live rock. amazing to say the least. I can see that my flow rate has reduced to a degree from the amount of visible bottom glass in one corner where sand is being cleared away. my live rock is from a store that was closing down and from what I can tell its large pieces of dead coral now completely integrated with life if all types some wanted some not, so any many ways this could be a good opportunity to try and remove some unwanted guests but Im not confident that's possible without a complete breakdown and fresh rebuild.
  10. The relationship between Nitrates & live rock is what stage I'm at.. I realize Sps is the holly grail and am years from it.. I know it, but your more then correct in saying this by no means succeeding but is a form of success even at the lowest level and I shouldn't have mentioned Sps, I just want to portrait the detail of measurement & understanding that I intend on gaining with the added mention of my goal.
  11. Dam you Donny..! I was on a roll in better understanding large scale tanks by using small scale measurements / experiments. But since your going to contribute can you give a more broad explanation in the differences between nano & pico I know it's late so when you're upto it I would greatly appreciate your version in the differences between the two.
  12. My pico reef is only about 20 litres Containing 2 clownfish, one bristle starfish and one frog spawn coral all of which are bullet proof from what I can tell. I use one internal pump which creates tank flow and powers a spray bar for sufficient gas exchange. I don't use a heater chiller skimmer sump or high watt lighting at this stage. I wish only to firstly grasp an understanding in stability & boundaries of temperature bio-loads salinity nitrates phosphates calcium and trace elements before exploring high lighting and sensitive species. I am a fan of the keep it simple stupid theory as a way of straight forward & inexpensive methods, as I am currently experimenting with rainwater as top-off with no ill effects so far after 11 months of use. Even though I realise the risks. But that's exactly what this tank is for.. risks on the smallest of scales, potentially maximizing the effects.
  13. I swear after 12 months since first setup the live rock kept nitrates around 5-10 ppm but over the years thats just not the case. I am very interested in the infomation already provided and will research more in depth to better understand your concepts. I originally did have my concerns surrounding growth upon the exterior of live rock and the possible negative effects that would occur. I will post a picture when I get around to it I believe I have about 1kg of live rock in -20 litres but am willing to replace or clean up exsisting live rock if that infact in the root cause of my high nitrate levels At first I was going to just add another pump to increase flow but I don't want to be lazy about it as this small aquarium is my learning tank before I convert a 80 gallon into a full Sps reef tank So this pico tank is solely designed for pushing boundaries to better understand the limits of reefing.. As a prevention from future failures on a large scale. I will return soon to further discuss any outstanding concerns or theories in the way of maximizing live rocks potential. I greatly appreciate you attention of this simple concept and hope that live rock is a substantial key to the future success of Sps growth. Even though I'm currently under the strong impression that live rock alone may not meet the required processes that Sps demand in a way of nitrate reduction.
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