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Found 19 results

  1. Post is to let people know there seems to be two different types of eheim classic cannister in our (Aus) shops. I bought a 2217 with eheim media bundle at the start of this year from a well known retail shop. It looked identical to the old 'Made in w.Germany' and ''Made in Germany' models but has "Made in PRC'on the label. If it didnt have the new COI printed on it I would not have known it was not european. Tonight I stripped it down to check the impeller/motor/magnet/shaft, and it is in excellent as new condition. flawless and not a blemish. Today I received a 2215, from a different shop, probably better known and is very well regarded. The photo on the website shows the old style classic, but I recieved this new shape. The actual cannister, hose, Quick connects, etc all appear the same, but the motor housing and 'lid'of the filter are different looking. This one is made in PRC, and looks like it is made in PRC. A quick inspection of the magnet shows the surface of it has lost part of its outer coating already. I was considering sending this back, it was not what the photo on the website showed and was not the quality that I knew eheim once had (regardless of where they are made). But then I sat down and thought it over, the other filters at a similar price point are all made to the same or even lower standards, and it does come with a good warranty, so lets see how it does. The new 2215 was advertised as having 1xcarbon, 1x white fine filter, and 1x blue coarse filter. The unit arrived filled with 1x carbon and 1x white and SIX blue pads. Would make a pretty neat mech filter itn that configuration, but I removed 4 of the blue filters and used some 3rd party bio media. http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a461/isarich/DSC_0690_zpsk7vbyslf.jpg The 2215 fired up straight away and feels like it has more than the 600ish LPH even at a 1.3M Head and chocka full of media. And it is running dead silent, you cannot hear the thing from more than a meter away. I will tear it down in two weeks time to remove the carbon pad and see what the impeller magnet looks like. Long story short. It seems the classics that come with eheim media are the old shape cans, made in PRC. The classics without bio media seem to be this new, cheaper looking, style. Also made in PRC. The product photo on the outside of the carton "is" accurate, so if buying online I recommend phoning ahead to confirm what the box looks like. Assuming you are wanting the older style, and not ready to trial'n'error these newer versions.
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  4. Hi All. Great price on the Popular Eheim 2217 ( 600 ) external canister filter. Today only $149.00. Link - Age of Aquariums - Eheim Classic 2217 ( 600 ) Ben
  5. Hi All, Deal of the day link - Age of Aquariums - Eheim Classic 2215 ( 350 ) Ben
  6. Hi All, Sensational Deal of the Day. Eheim Classic 2213 ( 250 ) External filter Today only $89.00 ( no further discounts apply ). Age of Aquariums - Eheim Classic 2213 ( 250 ) Ben
  7. Hi All. Here is the link - Age of Aquariums - Eheim Classic 2217 ( 600 ) Limit of 50 units per customer . Ben
  8. Im after a Eheim Classic 250 (2213) does any one know wat our sponsors sell them for so far ive found Eheim Classic 2213 Canister Filter Internal & External Filters - Eheim Canister Filter - Eheim Classic 2213 Canister Filter - Guppy’s Aquarium Products Online - Eheim Classic 2213 Canister Filter but would rather buy from our sponsors if its close in price
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  10. Hi All, Deal of the day link below, Age of Aquariums - Eheim Classic 2213 ( 250 ) After your 10% QLDAF Discount it brings them down to only $80.00 !!!. Ben
  11. Hi Everyone After doing a bit of research I feel I need to upgrade the filtration on my 4ft 250 ltr tank. Money is a bit of an issue, I've just had to replace two filters on other tanks that had died. So I've kinda blown my fish budget for this month already. I was thinking of getting an Eheim Classic 2217. It's rated to 600ltr. I thought that I'd pair that with the Otto 800 that I already have on the tank. I'm currently running 3 filters on the tank, a Fluval 204, Sicce Shark AV 800 & the Otto 800. Stocking of the tank will be: 4 x 5inch Clown Loach 2 x 4inch Angelfish 2 x (adult) Bronze Cory 4 x (adult) Albino Cory 3 x (adult) Bristlenose Pleco 1 x (adult) Tiger Barb 6 x (adult) Serpae Tetra The clowns will eventually be going to my brother in laws 8 foot tank. But for now they are growing up in mine. What do you think? Will the Eheim & Otto be sufficient filtration for this stocking?
  12. Hi All, Eheim Classic 2213 external filter's today only $89.00. Save $30.00. Here is a link, Age of Aquariums - Eheim Classic 2213 ( 250 ) Ben
  13. Hi All, Our Deal of the day is the Eheim Classic 2217 external filter Today only $159.00. Here is a link, Age of Aquariums - Eheim Classic 2217 ( 600 )
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  16. I am thinking of buying one of these for my new tank - but am tossing up which one. There is $200 price difference. The 2217 is jam packed with media (no baskets) and does a tank up to 600L with flow rate of 1000LPH the 2228 is self priming, has baskets, slightly bigger canister, does a tank up to 600L and flow rate of 1050 LPH. I think the clips on the 2217 are metal and abit flimsy? the 2228 looks like stronger clips. Anyone got these two and give me a good guide on what they think of them?
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  19. Fishless Cycling of the Aquarium The Classic Approach When setting up an aquarium, buy some cheap hardy fish and get the cycle started. These fish have been given names like "Starter Fish". "Suicide Fish", "Disposables" and so on. The purpose of these fish is to provide ammonia through respiration, fish waste, and decaying food. The ammonia allows the first set of nitrifying bacteria to colonize and to initiate the cycling of the tank. During this time of cycling, ammonia and later nitrites will spike up to dangerous levels for the little creatures. Some of them survive the harsh welcome but will not live out their full potential. Of course a few exceptions are tolerated within this rule. The cycle is complete as soon as ammonia and nitrite levels are nolonger measurable by test kits. This classical form of cycling takes anywhere from 30 to 45 days. Another Form of Cycling a Tank is without Fish Set up the tank with all the equipment needed (filtration, heater, light, protein skimmer for marine and reef tanks). Start it up, setting the heater to a temperature around 80 F, then simply feed the tank with fish food. The decaying food will release ammonia and the tank starts the cycling process. To further speed up this process the tank can be seeded with gravel from an existing tank, filter cartridges from established filters, filter media of any kind, biowheels, drift wood, rocks, all taken from established tanks. Bacteria colonize all of the above, so seeding basically means the introduction of existing bacteria colonies into a new tank. The decaying food will provide ammonia for these colonies to settle and expand in the new tank. The time frame of this method does not vary much with the time needed using the classical form of cycling. There is significant risk to create by-products such as phosphates, which occurs by decaying food. The ammonia produced might also be insufficient to create enough bacteria colonies to hold the fish when they are introduced. This will trigger another growth of bacteria with the spikes in ammonia and nitrites. These re-renewed spikes however will be much shorter and less intense compared to the initial ones experienced during the primary cycle. Consequences for the fish are minimal, making this at least fish-friendlier. Both forms of cycling have one thing in common - Ammonia. Remember that a tank has cycled if ammonia and nitrites are back at 0 ppm. At this time you can stock the tank with fish. If no fish are introduced, the bacteria will need to be fed by continuing with the addition of fish food or pure ammonia as outlined below. Using Pure Ammonia to Cycle Instead of using fish food for ammonia production, we can also introduce pure ammonia to the tank. After the tank has been set up (see above), add 5 drops of ammonia per 10 Gallons into the water on a daily basis. Ammonia will rise to 5 ppm and higher. As soon as nitrites are measurable, reduce the ammonia input to 3 drops per day. Nitrites will rise to similar levels. Keep adding 2-3 drops until the measurements of ammonia and nitrites come out with 0 ppm. The tank has then completely cycled. Seeding the tank can significantly enhance this process. 7 days for a complete cycle are not unheard of; otherwise this methods takes 2-3 weeks. The bacteria colonies, using this method, are certainly large enough to handle a well-stocked aquarium. Some aspects to consider The tank has to be well oxygenated as the bacteria require oxygen The ammonia used should be free of any perfumes and additives Do not treat the water with conditioners that remove ammonia Water changes are only necessary if the ammonia and nitrite levels are far off level, which should only occur if more than 5 drops is used per 10 Gallons of water. After the cycle has been completed use activated carbon to remove any possible perfume or additives, which might have been in the ammonia. After stocking your tank with fish, general maintenance of the aquarium is all that is required. The bacteria will adjust to the fish load and if you plan to add new fish the bacteria will have to adjust again. Keep in mind to feed your tank with ammonia until you introduce fish. The waste generated by your fish will then provide the tank with all that is needed to balance the environment. With this method, all aquarium types can be cycled in a very short period of time. Professionals use the ammonia drop method to keep live sand and rock alive, which they sell in their stores. We recommend you read about the nitrogen cycle so you have an understanding about what happens during this cycling period. You will also need ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate test kits to perform your daily testing of the water.
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