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Found 38 results

  1. Donny, clear your message box!!!!!
  2. Now generally, getting rid of algae is a subject that we go into depth on. But sometimes, we just want a clear pond AND we wanted it yesterday! Enter the Serenity Green Water Destroyer block. 1) Break off the right amount. 2) Chuck it in. 3) Algae dies. 4) Pond water is clear. Now, we are treating the symptom. It is worth looking into why the pond had an algae bloom. Knowing that lets you prevent it in future. But there is no ignoring that these turn green ponds into clear ponds. Serenity Algae pond blocks, they are like chocolate for ponds..... or aquariums.
  3. DEAL OF THE DAY!!!!!! Use Sera Marin Silicate Clear for permanent silicate removal!! WAS $24.95, THIS WEEK ONLY get it for $8.95!!! Save yourself 64%!!!! Silicate supports the growth of diatoms in marine water aquariums. Sera Marin Silicate Clear easily and permanently binds silicate. It includes a practical filter media bag. Briefly rinse with running water before use, then simply place in a filter or a place with good water circulation. Remains active up to three months, depending on the silicate level. 500 g are sufficient for an aquarium holding 200 – 400 liters. Click on the link below to take advantage of this crazy deal! https://www.thetechden.com.au/dealoftheday.asp
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  5. .When I first saw this I thought - I had to get it. The amount of times it would have been handy to have a tube to either fix a leak or just put something in place and keep it there. So many things you can do with this. Live Rock, Marine use or fresh water. Fix leaks, stick items in place - does just about everything.... Seals leaks in concrete butyl PVC glass and many other surfaces. Gold Label Underwater Sealer Can I actually use this in wet conditions ie rain or under water? Yes. Gold Label is able to stick to a surface by displacing moisture from the surface. Will it cure under water? Yes, as it uses the oxygen in the water to cure. Does temperature affect it? In its uncured state, it does. It will not cure below freezing and it will be very slow curing under 5°C. Optimum temperature is 16°C. I cannot get it to stick Most common reason is trying to use it as a glue! It is a sealant which needs a body of product to work. If you squash the surfaces to be stuck then the area cannot affect a cure. Always apply a bead approx 5mm and gently attach object or liner patch to leave a bead of approx 2-5mm (Do not be tempted to pull it off to see if it is stuck before 3 days as temperature and thickness of sealer will affect the cure rate) Can I use it to repair gutters, roofs etc? Yes, Gold Label will stick to most surfaces. Will it stick to vinyl? Yes, make sure surface is clean and sound, and abrade lightly. Can I use Gold Label in marine tanks? Yes, there is no difference in performance between fresh water and salt water. Can I use Gold Label to stick living rock or coral? Yes, because Gold Label is an inert, non-toxic product it can be used safely on coral or living rock. I need to use acrylic glass for safety in my pond / tank. Will Gold Label stick the acrylic to the frame? Gold Label has 4 times the bond strength of silicone on acrylic and has been used in major installations using acrylic sheet. Can I use Gold Label to fix equipment eg pumps, filters to the side of ponds or tanks? Yes, make sure you bed the equipment on a bead of sealer at least 5mm. This is to allow slight movement between the two surfaces and support for 24 hours to allow the sealer to cure before any weight is put on it. Can I join two pieces of liner together? Yes, by putting two beads of 5mm diameter, 100mm apart on the overlap. Then gently run your fingers over the line to make sure the sealer has connected both pieces of liner. DO NOT PRESS FLAT. By having two beads of 5mm, the liner can expand and contract without tearing and it will allow for any imperfections in joining of the two liners. Do I have to drain the pond / tank before using Gold Label? No, you can use this under water to bond practically anything. Can I use Gold Label in swimming pools / spas? Yes, this will adhere even in chlorinated water. Can I fix a crack in a concrete pond / pool? Yes. First vee-out the crack to approx 10-20 mm and fill with Gold Label. If concrete is powdery, use primer first.
  6. I'm looking for a 30cm ultra clear cube tank, found some online but the shipping cost was so expensive. Does anyone happen to have a spare one?
  7. Hey mate [MENTION=4899]Yodapwnsasmurf[/MENTION] just trying to send you a pm but your inbox is full, please pm me when you have cleared it. Thanks mike
  8. Ok, let’s clear up a few things about lighting in the aquarium. Note: being that i am a self confessed plant nut this information is more specifically biased towards planted tanks however no doubt there will be information that may be useful to others. KELVIN: Firstly, the most common thing people are told to look for in a “good plant light” is the Kelvin rating (that’s the “K” you always see after a number, eg 6500k). This is a bit misleading to be honest although it is partially true. The Kelvin rating of a light refers to its colour temperature. Although it’s true that a higher Kelvin rating will have more blue light and a lower Kelvin rating will have more red light it is not actually an indication of what wavelengths of light may be present, more an indication of how the light will appear to us (humans). You can have two different lights with the same Kelvin rating but the wavelengths of light actually produced can be completely different. So what do you need? Well, for optimum leaf development you want light in the blue spectrum, for stem elongation light in the red spectrum and for it to look “nice” to us light in the green spectrum. If you’re tank looks really bright and your plants seem really green it just means that your light is producing strongly in the green spectrum. Don’t be fooled into thinking that this bright light means you’re plants are going to grow like crazy though because plants don't use light in the green spectrum for photosynthesis so for them it’s not much use. A “full spectrum” plant light is commonly referring to a light that has a colour temperature between 5000-6500k but this does not indicate what wavelength in nanometers the light is actually emitting and this is what really matters. So what you need is light that peaks at the correct wavelengths for photosynthesis and carotenoid production. Those wavelengths are: Chlorophyll-a: 430nm/662nm Chlorophyll-b: 453nm/642nm Carotenoids: 449nm/475nm The lower numbers are in the blue spectrum, the higher ones in the red spectrum. Red pigmented plants use more light in the blue area of the spectrum. The point of all this is that you don’t need to get carried away with what colour spectrum to look for in a light, more what wavelength peaks the light produces. Use the colour spectrum to decide how you want the tank to look to YOU. So a red colored light will enhance red fish and plants, a blue light will enhance blue fish and a green light will make the tank look bright and the plants look green. LUMENS & LUX: These are both very similar as Lux is just lumens per square metre. They are both also pretty useless as far as determining how good a light will be for plant growth. Lumens are just a measure of how much light energy is produced as perceived by the human eye. After reading the above you can already see that most of this light is going to be in the green spectrum so it means little to plants and in fact as a result good plant lights are often not particularly bright. If you look at two lights of the same wattage and one has a much higher lumen rating then you know it’s producing alot of light in the green spectrum. So in a nutshell the lumen rating for a plant light is of little importance. PAR: This is another often misunderstood area of lighting. PAR stands for "Photosynthetic Active Radiation". People who understand the irrelevance of lumens often look to this as a more accurate sign of a lights brightness and suitability to a planted tank. PAR measures all light output between 400nm and 700nm so it actually encompasses the wavelengths that are useful to plants and not just light in the green spectrum as lumens does. This will give you a more accurate idea of how much useful (to plants) energy is being produced. Again though this is not entirely accurate as there is still alot of light energy being produced that is of no use to plants. The only real rating that will provide you with JUST information on the wavelengths that matter to plants is PUR (Photosynthetic Usable Radiation) which measures only the energy produced in the red and blue spectrums. If you have read this far, firstly congratulations :humble:There is plenty more that can be said on this subject and others alot smarter than me may wish to do so. However, hopefully all of this has given you a better understanding of what really matters and what to look for as far as lighting goes and cleared up alot of the misinformation that gets floated about. Thanks for reading.
  9. Brother inlaw wants to try to cycle a tank using ammonia , can anyone tell me where he can get some and how long it takes to cycle a tank this way:frusty:
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  11. Hey guys, just noticed today after a day at work my cycling marine tank wasn't looking right. I noticed clear "glassy" looking bubbles on my live rock and it was also turning brown. It looked like somewhat like an algae. Now an insight into the tank, it's an 80ltr nano reef just on 3 weeks old which started off as live sand and Red Sea synthetic salt water, I monitored it over 2 weeks until I struck a balance with salinity and all tests. Maintained p.h. Of 8.2. At this 2 week mark I added 6-7kilo of live rock and let the tank settle. 3 days ago after levels were somewhat settled I decided to add 3 chromis. Fish are healthy and have been fed and ate 2 blocks of myasis shrimp. This morning turned the light on and all seemed fine, it was just towards the end of the day that I noticed the bubbles and colouring. What would make my tank change like this in such a short time? Should I be concerned or just let it settle again? I am hesitant to retest the water at this stage and would prefer to leave the tests for the morning. I was thinking of just leaving it alone, and leaving the lights turned off for atleast a day or 2. I can get pics by tomorrow afternoon, the pictures really tell the story. What would I generally be looking at here? Algae bloom? Nitrifying cycle? Any number of other things? Any help/comments/questions are very welcome and most appreciated... Cheers, Matt
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  13. Does any1 no wat they would be they r floating on the edges near the glass. Just set up new sump last night can send a pic if any1 can help of wanna see a pic txt me on 0427661486 or pm me thanks
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  15. Has anyone ever had ever had clear looking bubbles on a pleco before? There small and look like pimples. We were given one @ 30cm to try and heal so seeing if anyone has seen that before. cheers
  16. Hey davey007 please clear your inbox. Trying to send you a message.
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  18. Tried to reply to ur pm but ur mailbox is full
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  21. Hi all, Just wanted to open the discussion about what counts as marble. Here is a google search but I have seen some that ppl say are marble but don't look like these, marble bristlenose - Google Search Your torts?
  22. as title states:)
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  24. has any1 used selleys all clear to frag? if now what have you used, i've had a chat with a guy that says just normal super glue but need more specifics. like what store, how many steps to take, turn left and grab what brand? any help would be greatly appreciated
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