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Found 27 results

  1. Tank cycle test results Tank 1 Day 2 Tank size - 18" x 9"x 9.5" Substrate - ADA Amazonia Ph - 7.6 Ammonia - 0.25 ppm Nitrite - 1.0ppm Nitrate - 5.0ppm does this sound normal?
  2. Hi I have been trying t establish a new tank but not having any success and the ammonia is not coming down last 6 days Can any one from gold coast share any substract from an established tank please Thanks Navneet
  3. Hi all, Ok I'm going to try and be as specific and thorough with info as possible because I'm stuck and am not sure where to go from here. First off this is my first ever tank/potential pet fish. I'm drawing a lot of info from my older brother who is more experienced, has multiple tanks and successfully is raising a range of different types of fish. I am also drawing a lot of info from the web. I'm the sort of person who will research heavilly any potential hobbies. My brother uses a fish in cycle, so he hasn't been able to help explain the strange goings on with my fishless cycle. Details are as follows: Second hand tank from said brother. 4' X 12"w X 24"h Substrate: mixed aquarium pebbles. My research says they're PH neutral Hardscape: Foam fake rock wall on back glass, 1 approx 16cm Texas holy rock, a bunch of Pisces Pagoda rock ( Rough ) and a piece of driftwood approx 12cm No plants yet. Filter: 1250lt/h generic cannister with 2 trays of ceramic noodles and 1 tray with course filter pad. I have carbon impregnated fine pad but won't add until cycle complete and even then only to polish water and will eventually be switch for fine/non carbon pad. My reasoning is I need bacteria load in filter, not clear water atm. Other stuff: 300 watt heater set to 30c ( not that it reaches or maintains that heat, being cheap brand. Will switch later to either Jager or Shogun ) Q2 air pump set to highest flow rate with a airstone. No light on tank while cycling. Tools used for cycle: API master test kit. Prime water conditioner. Coles Branded Cloudy ammonia. Ok my cycle started on 3/10. I wanted my cycle to be set at ammonia rate of 4ppm since I plan on having a fair few fish at start/heavy bio load. 3/10 Water conditioned with prime, left to cycle for 30 mins and at 5:23pm I used the calculator online to find out ammonia needed for volume of water and added 8ml. My initial read after ammonia ran in was bang on 4.00ppm 4/10 1am ammonia reading was surprisingly 2.00ppm so after consulting cycling wiki it reckoned once you have a ammonia level drop, add ammonia back to whatever level you're wanting. So I added another 4ml. Checked once mixed and was back at 4.00ppm 1:55pm 2.00ppm 7:34pm 1.50ppm 10:05pm 1.50ppm no change so added 7ml ammonia to top back up to 4ppm. At this point I did a nitrite test because I was surprised my ammonia was dropping this early. It was 0ppm 5/10 11:11am 2.00ppm 3:00pm 1.50ppm 9:19pm 1.50ppm at this point I said I wouldn't add ammonia till 0.25-0.50ppm. 6/10 10:39am 1.00ppm 3:34pm 1.00ppm Nitrite test done again: 0ppm 6:50pm 1.00ppm ( tired of stall added 5ml ammonia ) back to 4.00ppm 7/10 10:32am 3.00ppm 7:40ppm 1.50ppm 4.5ml added and back at 4.00ppm Did a nitrite test and it came up 0ppm again. So rung brother and got him around for advice. He decided to do a nitrate test and low and behold 20ppm. So my question is this, I studied enough to know once the ammonia drops its converted to nitrite. And nitrite eventually becomes nitrate. Cycles I've read about follow the same pattern. Ammonia drops, nitrite climbs, eventually nitrite drops and then when ammonia and nitrite read 0ppm after a 12hr period of ammonia top up, you have a nitrate reading. And cycle complete. PWC then add fish. I also read it takes at least a week to see progress. My numbers and readings make no sense. Can someone explain how this is even possible? And where I should go? I'm hoping at 7:30pm it's 0ppm
  4. Problem: I'm confused about my water parameters. I have been doing fish-in cycling with 2 danios in a 100L tank (learnt about fishless cycling after LFS told me it was safe to add fish straight away...) The tank is 100L, and has been set up for about a month now. I kept up my water changes as required to keep my ammonia at or below 0.25, and nitrites at or below 0.25 as to not harm the fish (as I have seen advised on the internet). All was going well, I had been getting constant nitrite readings (trying to keep at or below 0.25) with no-to-low ammonia and minimal nitrates (1-3ppm) for a week or two, when a few days ago I got a big nitrite spike to 1-2ppm. I did a big water change, dosed extra Prime, rechecked the nitrite and it was just below 0.25ppm. Then the next day, unexpectedly, the levels were: ammonia 0 (or very low - I have difficulty differentiating the colours), nitrite 0, nitrate 0. They have stayed this way for the past 3 days. My question is - can my tank be fully cycled when I never got significant nitrate readings? The biggest nitrate reading I ever got was maybe 4-5ppm. My tank is at ~25 degrees. I have several plants including anubias, ferns, and amazon swords. It gets about 10 hours of light a day. I dose Prime as required, as well as Flourish excel and comprehensive I feed NLS thera-a as per what fish eat in 1-2 min, 1-2x per day. The filter is internal (combination of mechanical, chemical and biological) Thank you in advance!
  5. Hi Guys as some of you know im setting up my 4 ft tank soon i just wanted to know how long should i have my cannister running b4 tranfering over the fish to the new tank
  6. how long will it take to cycle 15,000 L ?
  7. .I have a question for you guys. I have a three tier rack with three 6ft tanks on there connected to a sump. The sump has been in use for well over a year so everything is well and truly cycled and all parameters are perfect. However, I now want to add a new tank to the existing sump. This new 8ft tank will have completely new water in there (of course the usual chemicals will be added to remove the nasties) but my question is, will the addition of 800 or so litres of new water crash my system? or will it be fine? I have been seeding some sponge filters for a while now which I will put in the new tank to help it along the way, I also added a lot more media to the sump about two months ago. There will be no new fish going in so the bio load will be exactly the same, also it will have new substrate and new décor. If the tank needs to be cycled separately I will use some stuff from the other tanks, however, if it can be connected straight to the sump I see no need to move things around. What I intend to do eventually is to take some of the fish out of the 6ft'ers and put them into the 8ft. So I am not sure whether to not connect to the sump just yet and cycle the new tank separately and then connect it in a month or so, or just go ahead and connect it all up now. Any thoughts.....
  8. hi all, tank has been running for 6 weeks, ran the filter for a week then added food every day for a week couldnt get the tank to spike. i added dirty water from another tank and washed the filters out in the dirty water still couldnt get a spike. ive never had to do it before but i added a 12 africans which have been in there for 3 weeks i think and still nothing. im no expert but ive never had problems with getting my tank cycled before any help would be appreciated! tank is a 6x2x2 with 1 FX5 running tank has not had a water change ammonia is 0.25 nitrite 0 nitrate 0 cheers, Hoody.
  9. :help:hey guys im new to this forum. my friend brought me here , my names jimmy. i've had african cichlids in the past but i didn't know anything about cycling a tank. i told my friend i was getting a tank then he informed me about new tank syndrome. Ive done a little research on the internet but a lot of the information is about using pure ammonia. i cant get my hands on any, so im using fish food to get the ammonia levels up. todays my 9th day into the cycle i used "seed" filter media from a friend. 2 days ago nitrites started appearing with nitrates and this morning i had no ammonia level since then i added fish food i had dissolved in a container i poured that into my tank, and the levels are still not showing ammonia but nitrites are really high with nitrates around 10-20 ppm. can anyone help me with this process? thanks love the QLDER icons on the home page up the maroons tonight domin8!!
  10. Hi Everyone I'm sure someone has heard me scream a lot lately!! This tank & cycle are driving me crazy!! I've be recycling my 2ft (approx 90l) tank since the 28th of may which was when I had to strip down and redo the tank due to a snail outbreak (more info here: Recycling Questions). After a few setbacks due to dead snails in the filter I thought I would be back on track. But I'm not! At least I don't think I am. My ammonia readings are between 4.0 & 6.0 consistently. I will do a water change in the morning and my ammonia will be back up by the afternoon. I've just read Syndicate's Nitrifying Bacteria Facts and am wondering if my low PH is the problem. Since the beginning of this month my PH has been 6.0 or at least that low since that's the lowest reading on my card. We are on rain water here so basically that's the PH of the water coming out of my taps. Current readings are: Ph:- 6.0 Ammonia:- 2.0 Nitrate:- 5.0 Nitrite:- 0 These readings were taken approx 4 hours after a 75% water change. I've had no nitrItes reading at all in the last 3ish weeks. For the last week or so I've been doing 50% water changes every 2 days, using Prime and API Quick Start. Feeding only every 2nd day. I picked up a bottle of API Stress Zyme yesterday in the view of trying something different. But now after reading the above link I'm wondering, could the low PH be stopping the cycle? I've tried adding media from other established tanks. Nadda! I've tried dumping a bucket of mulm from other established tanks. Nadda! I'm at a loss as to what I can do. Should I be looking at raising the PH?? I always thought that playing with the PH was a no-no but if it's stopping the cycle, what else can I do?? I do have access to town water which should have a higher PH. Other details: Current inhabitants are: 1 x neon head apisto 4 x pepper cory 1 x yoyo loach Temperature: 28deg C Filtration:-Canister/Sump/Internal Filter/Sponge:- Fluval U4, ceramic rings have been replaced with aqua clay from a established cycled tank, sponges & U4 cartridges. The air bubbles are running on the filter. Substrate: bottom layer of laterite, middle layer of tahitian moon sand, top layer of black gravel Plants in Tank:- Java, anubias and something with purple underneath the leaves Feeding:- Tetra min granules & a couple of algae wafers in the morning only. Recent Medication Treatments:- API Stress Zyme at water change Last water change:- 3:00pm today Water change every Day/Weekly/Monthly: 50% every second day I'm stressing about this tank and to top it off I'm going away in a weeks time for 9 days so it's going to be fending for itself at this time. I'd love to move the fish into another tank but I can't. I must be doing something wrong but I just can't work out what! I've never had a tank do this before. Never had ammonia readings that just won't drop and stay dropped! I'm stressed...can you tell I'm stressed?!?! :confused:
  11. Just looking for opinions on how long a Bio Ball lasts b4 the plastic breaks down. I've heard many different theorys; Replace a third of them every year Replace all of them every 3-4 years, etc My own thought is that there good for at least 5 years What are your thoughts, experiences :confused: Thanks Brendan
  12. So got tank and ehiem. Setting up now with water in in and prime. Can I take the sponge out of the shrimp tank and put in new tank to boost the cycling if U need to cycle for shrimp. Cheers guys
  13. hi guys i have a new big tank on the way 4x3x2 im pretty sure (odd size i know but very nice tank) my question is, i know i have to get a good bacterial cycle going on initial setup and have read several different ways of doing this before i get fish in the tank so that evrything is spot on when they go in read that a good way to get bacteria in the cycle without fish is to put a prawn in there and let decompose over the space of a week. would this work and if not what is a good easy way to do this without fish in the tank (preferably) as i want conditions to be perfect before my fish are added
  14. Hey guys, I have recently set up and filled a 3x18x15W tank. It's the first tank I have setup since keeping fish about 7 years ago. It is filtered by a Fluval 204, filled with sponge, fine wool, 1L of 'Matrix', and 'Purigen'. Tank parameters are: pH 8 GH 180ppm temp 25C I filled it last Saturday, dechlorinated it with 'Prime' and added 'Stability' to cycle my tank, and have since been adding it daily at the reccommended dose. According to the label : "Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 40 L (10 gallons*) on the first day with a new aquarium. Then use 1 capful for each 80 L (20 gallons*) daily for 7 days. Fish and other aquatic species may be introduced at any time as long as dosage is maintained for 7 days." So on the fist day I added the 'stability', I went and got myself some guppies to throw in the tank to test the waters (as they are quite resilient) and for something to look at until I am ready to get the fish I want. A couple of days on, just out of interest I tested the water only to find that the tank isn't cycled. Ammonia was 0ppm Nitrite 5ppm+ Nitrate 0ppm My understanding is that this product should very rapidly cycle the tank, but i thought I would give it til the end of the week to come good. I have been testing the water everyday since with barely a change. I will also add that I got 2-3L of seeded water (squeezed the sponge filter out in the water) from my local aquarium and added that on Friday. As of today: Ammonia 0ppm Nitrite 5ppm+ Nitrate 5-10ppm Can anyone shed any light on why the cycle seems to have stalled? Thanks in advance, Beau.
  15. Hey peeps i need to setup my 5x2x2 this weekend so that i can move some fishies into a new tank, my only issue is that i dont have any spare cycled filters (normally i do but i just used my last one to set another quarantine tank . so what i was gonna do was i currently have a seperation/q tank with a corner filter filled with dacron and biomedia (marbles) (home to some sevs atm) i was gonna take half of the media out of this filter and stick it in a pipe filter i have made (normally i use my biomedia and dacron to fill it) with the additional media and transfer say 1 or 2 sevs into the new tank (filled with rainwater). just thinking i have probably 3 other filters i could also steal seeded media from my ph is at about 6 atm, so this should make the ammonia less dangerous towards the fish (the lower your ph, the less dangerous ammonia becomes to your fish), so i was also thinking of dropping the ph lower (down to about 5) to help with this. if anyone can point out any flaws in my plans i'd like to hear them, thanks Cav
  16. About three weeks ago, I decided to attempt another fishless cycle: I pinched a small quantity of filter media from an established marine tank, and started adding Ammonium chloride at a rate sufficient to produce a 2.0ppm TAN reading. Within a week, I started to see nitrites forming. At this stage, I was adding enough Ammonium chloride to give 2.0ppm on a daily basis, and by next morning, the TAN was down to 0, but the nitrites were greater than the maximum reading (5.0ppm). This went on for another couple of weeks - then, mid-last week I do the usual check in the morning, but the TAN is at 0.5ppm. I didn't add any more Ammonium chloride, and then by the following day, TAN is back down to 0, but nitrites have come down to 1.0ppm. The day after that (when I've added enough Ammonium chloride to give 2.0ppm TAN again), the TAN reads 0.25. I go ahead and add enough to give 2.0ppm. Next morning, TAN is 1.0 and nitrites are down to 0. TAN is still 1.0 three days later. This happened at the end of last year when I tried this - just as the nitrites start clearing, the Ammonia consumption stalls - and stays stalled. Last year, I though I had overdosed on the Ammonium chloride or down something to kill off the biofilter - now I'm not so sure. Any thoughts on what's going on here? (and how I can stop this from happening in future?) Cheers, h_tully
  17. im setting up a new marine tank havent had one for a few years and want to speed up the cycling process. was thinking about buying that agra live substrate or should i save my money and try a cheaper option by buying a piece of live rock or some substrate and water from someones tank.
  18. Hi All, I generally spend my time over on the international site, but thought this would be very much worth your while being a QLD/Brisbane based board. I have some great news. I have found someone that is able to get clear ammonia in the Brisbane region with a 6% weight. The shop is located at Alderley square just next to the bakery. I has a big 'Cleaning Supplies' on the front. It took a few days to order it in, unfortunately the shop does not have an 'on-hand' stock, however, the lovely lady said if people start getting it, that may change.. The cost I must admit, was a little steep considering it is only ammonia but in saying that, how long it took to find, I was not really phased. I was charged $40 for a 5lt bottle with a 6% weight. Here is a pic of the location And here is a pic of the bottle label. ENJOY the cycling without hurting any of your fish!!! Jono
  19. Would be interested to hear how people cycle their new sump systems...have heard of some interesting ideas,like prawn heads to get the ammonia started etc
  20. I am moving from a single 3ft tank to 2 4ft tanks and a sump. Will be using the bioballs from my diy canister in the sump, the internal filter and all the gravel from my 3ft in both 4ft tanks. The bioballs and internal filter are filtering for all the fish that are being moved/split up so there won't be an increased bioload, will this be enough? Should I do a fishless cycle to rebuild the bacteria's strength after the move or just add some stability and be done with it? Just want to make sure everything is fine before I do the fish move as I will have to drain the 3ft tank to move it to get the other tanks in place.
  21. I was just wondering wat ppl thought of Leaf Zone (additive for plants) & Cycle (liquid good bacteria). I havent found any benefit in using leaf zone with my plants (the die regardless), and im not sure if it makes any difference using cycle. If anyone has some useful feedback id appreciate it! cheers
  22. Does Purigen avoid a cycle? I set up a new tank and seeded the gravel and canister with gunk from an old filter and a gravel vac from an old tank. I also put a Purigen bag in the canister to remove ammonia, nitrite and nitrates. I also put some fish into the tank. Possibly the only thing happening on this new tank would be ammonia build up but the purigen bag is absorbing that. Eventually nitrite will occur, but the purigen bag will also handle that. By the time nitrates kick in properly, in a few weeks, the purigen bag will absorb that too. Have I found a way to have a cycle and fish at the same time using Purigen? I did the same thing with a tank a few months ago and just cleaned the canister. The Purigen was very dark brown with all the stuff it had absorbed and nitrates were building up in the water but with a canister clean and a new purigen bag, nitrates are now zero again. I don't seem to need to do as many water changes now either.
  23. I was reading on another forum about a certain cycle that you put in your tank that's just been filled up and then you can put fish into it straight away. The post said something about it comes refrigerated so you can only get it from fish shops that have a refrigerater to store it in to keep it cool. Is there anything like this? I wanted to go down to a shop a bit of a drive away and get a filter, heater, gravel, plants etc. and pick up some of this cycle stuff so I can put fish in the tank the same day? Or do I have to do it the normal way that takes a week or so?
  24. hey all Just wandering if i can use a prawn 2 cycle a freswater tank or is that just a saltwater thing? Thx Doug
  25. Filled my new tank on Friday. Placed a stocking with gravel from my cycled tank in the new tank. Swapped a media tray and filter pad from my mature system canister filter to the new tanks canister filter. I have been feeding the tank daily with flake food to provide a food source for the bacteria. Will what I have done shorten the Nitrogen Cycle process? How long should it take to cycle the tank? Tank is 700 x 700 x 600 Cheers Grant
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