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Found 34 results

  1. Hi guys i started my tank and purchased dr tims one and only and the ammonia chloride he provides and dosed my tank in accordance to the instructions provided. They claim their product can cycle a tank in a week. Great marketing and got sucked in admittedly. I have had ammonia at 2 ppm throughout and nitrites don't want to start. It's now day 7. I have plenty of aeration. Temp is 28 degrees. I've seeded the tank from another filter I have running (fx5) and took two of the outer sponges out and placed it in the (fx6) in the new tank. The new tank is 800 litres. Ph is about 8.4 Has as anyone used this? am I doing something wrong or is it just taking longer? should I buy more bacteria from the LFS? have fish on hold and don't want to put them in but getting pressure to finish the cycle as the LFS is running out of space to house the fish. Also is 2ppm ammonia sufficient to house the following: 10 x Frontosa 12cm 8 x cuckoo 4 x calvus
  2. Ok iv been writing down the last 4 days of my cycle using dr tims ammonia and bacteria this is what Iv got Friday- ammonia 0.8 Nitrites 0.2 Nitrates 3 Saturday- ammonia 0.4 Nitrites 0.5 Nitrates 3 Sunday- ammonia 1.2 Nitrites 0.8 Nitrates 5 Monday- ammonia 0.8 Nitrites 1-1.2 Nitrates 12 A big difference from Sunday to Monday (today)
  3. so i'm on day 24 of my fishless cycle, my tank is 23 gallons. i still havent seen any nitrites at all they have always been at 0 is there something im doing wrong? at the start i was using a internal filter but have just added a aquaclear 50 to the tank yesterday aswell. i also have a live plant in there aswell as i read it would be good for it.. im also new to this and this is my first tank Nitrite - 0ppm Ammonia - 2.0ppm (at the start i added it up to 4.0ppm, it has dropped since i added more yesterday, not surte if i should make it higher or leave it at 2.0?) pH - 8.5 Nitrate - 5.0ppm
  4. The last tank I cycled a 2ft tank took approx 4 weeks. This one is a 1 ft tank and has been running for nearly 5 weeks, ammonia approx 4ppm, nitrite 2ppm and nitrate approx 80ppm (I'm not overly concerned about this result as I always get 40ppm on any test I do on a tank)All 3 seem to be minimally lower than yesterday. But about the same level as 2 weeks ago. There are plants in the tank but all look reasonably good to me. I did use a QuickStart style product to start with and used it as per directions on bottle. I don't understand where the ammonia side of the results are coming from as there's nothing I can see that will be adding any form of waste. Have I just not waited long enough? Or is there something else I should be checking?
  5. Hey there i am starting a new discus tank and need some help deciding which way would be best to cycle it i am planning on getting the discus after xmas so in a week and a half i have looked at- fishless cycling with ammonia but it would take too long swapping the sponge on my other tank with the new filter but don't want to risk it as I had a few fish pass away a few weeks ago due to gas pockets as I have a planted tank it's harder to keep it 100% clean all the time and I don't want to risk making the new discus sick i was told I can put juveniles straight in and do 50% water changes everyday but I don't want to risk that either (not having the right water for them) i am am wondering if there is a product in Australia that you can put into your tank to create that good bacteria? i know they exist overseas?? or any other suggestions? I Am traveling up north for xmas and want to get some quality fish on the way back hence why I want to do it quicker.. the new tank is 65 gallons or 250 LITREs and is a used tank but has been dry for about a year it won't be a planted tank substrate will be white sand (thin layer) and driftwood possibly eventually with some plants attached thanks in advance!!
  6. so i have a 4 foot tank ive restarted up put sand down, 2 plants in it been up and running for a week now, i know this is nearly not long enough, i added a albino bn in it yesturday its still alive and healthy. just wondering if i could add my new L002s to it? would they survive?
  7. Just a question about my tank cycling. I've done the fish in method with 7 gold fish in my 6x2x2 with a fx5 on it. i squeezed my filters out of my other tank into inlet of the fx5 to give it a kick start. The ammonia level for the first 2 weeks was around .5 ppm and I did water changes when it got over that. The readings are now ammonia 0ppm nitrite 0ppm. nitrate 40-60ppm. It has been stable like this for a few days does this mean it is finished cycling?
  8. Iv had the live rock in the tank for 3days now and I'm reading .5 - 1 ammonia. I'm not completely new I just always doubt myself and need second opinions so I realise ammonia levels in the cycling stage is part of it but should I be reading around 2ammonia or it varies. I should mention that it was an established tank before I took it over (ex display tank LFS) but was shut down. All the other water parameters are spot on Iv just been told that ammonia in salt should be around 2 before it drops to nitrites, true or false. Oh and I'm using api test
  9. Pretty informative piece... mainly from "ready - set - cycle" Cycling Your New Fresh Water Tank: Read This First! - Cycle your Tank - Tropical Fish Forums Has anyone tried this method before/ added ammonia to the tank to get the cycle started.... really keen to get rid of the cloudy water in my new tank
  10. I am wondering if anyone might know what could be causing the nitrate levels to be very high in my tank. I am 10 days into a new cycle, running a new filter. Ammonia is 2.0 nitrite is 0 and nitrate has been very high. Before my first water change, day 7, it was 160 then after it went down to 40. I did the water change 3 days ago and I am going to do it again today. I just tested everything again and nitrate is still high as expected. I know nitrate is less harmful and it will reduce again after doing another water change but it doesn't make sense and I need to figure out what had caused it. From my understanding a cycle goes like this... Ammonia levels peak within a couple of weeks and then turn into nitrite, the nitrite peaks within a couple of weeks and turns into nitrate, then it peaks within a couple of weeks which is then removed by changing the water and then the cycle is complete right? So how can nitrate levels be so high right from the beginning? I am guessing my ammonia is about to peak, hence the 2.0 ammonia reading and 0 nitrite, then nitrite will peak etc etc etc I only have 1 Oscar which is fed once a day and has not really made a lot of mess, and running a Eheim classic (2217) I have plans to run my Jebo also as a back up but need new pipes and bits n bobs first so figure my eheim should be plenty to keep the tank clean for now, it is a 4x 1.5x 1.5 ft (66 gallon) tank. Any ideas? TIA Oh and one more thing, what is everyone's thoughts and experiences on seachem prime? Yay or Nay?
  11. Hi, I have a friend who lives in sydney and I was trying to explain to her how to cycle a tank from scratch. She does not have any seed material. She has a 60l tank and is hoping to eventually add fantails in. She will not be putting in any plants. I'm sure it is staring me in the face, but could you link me to what you think is the best tank cycling guide on here. It's easier to show her than trying to explain over facebook Thankyou kindly Phoebe
  12. Hey all, When cycling a new tank. When is it ok to do a first water change & what % is recommended? Cheers
  13. I'm currently moving my fish to different tanks and was wondering if I put the FX5 straight from the 5x2x2 to the 6x2x2 and only use 50% new water and 50% from the established 5ft I should be able to move the fish immediately yea? There's over 50 fish so rather be safe than sorry. Any advice would be much appreciated. Cheers Nathan
  14. Tank: 165L Equipment Basic: Filter: Aquaone Nautilus 1400 - Tray 1. Sponges - Tray 2 & 3. Seachem Matrix Heater: Hydor Inline 300w Dalua SS Freshwater LED Light Additional Equipment: Sera 1000 C02 Reactor Aqua Nova 18watt UV Steriliser CO2 Pro Regulator 2.6kg CO2 Cylinder Monitoring Equipment: Seneye Reef Macro Aqua PH Monitor with power plug Tank Contents: Black Earth Soil II by Aqualabs 2 x Driftwood Basic Parameters Tap: PH: 8-8.5 KH: 8 GH: 10 Basic Parameters Tank 1 hour after filling: PH: 7.5 - Tested using the monitor KH: Not tested GH: Not tested Day 1 - 25.08.13 Filled tank and water became murky from substrate, had to put rock inside log to stop it from floating. Add 20mls of Seachem Stability Set heater to 26oC Tested PH: 7.5 - Tested using the monitor Day 2 - 26.08.13 Tank cleared up & lights came one from timer. I installed the Seneye Reef. Its giving me a different reading to the PH monitor and is saying 8.13, going to leave over night to see if it changes. I also did a API PH test and it was 7.5. Wrapped prawn in net then put into tank. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Temp: 27.7oC NH3: 0.040 mg/l (ppm) NH4: 11.85 Day 3 - 27.08.13 Tank is clear, prawns are rotting nicely. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.049 mg/l (ppm) NH4: 84.61 PH: 7.49 (Seneye), 7.55 (Monitor) Day 4 - 28.08.13 Prawn doesn't seem to be rotting as yet, but i guess it will soon. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.055 mg/l (ppm) NH4: 49.36 Going down PH: 7.49 (Seneye), 7.55 (Monitor) Day 5 - 29.08.13 Prawn is now rotting with some white crap on it, the water is starting to stink a little well a fair bit not. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.058 mg/l (ppm) NH4: 34.48 Going down PH: 7.64 (Seneye), 7.55 (Monitor) Day 6 - 30.08.13 Prawn is now rotting with alot of white crap on it, the room now stinks. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.090 mg/l (ppm) Going Down NH4: 24.44 Going up PH: 7.76 (Seneye), 7.55 (Monitor) Day 7 - 31.08.13 Still stinking Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.101 mg/l (ppm) Going Up NH4:30.07 Going up - Fluctuating Up & Down PH: 7.8 (Seneye), 7.55 (Monitor) Day 8 - 01.09.13 White stuff on prawn is looking like its trying to grow white angel wings. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.110 mg/l (ppm) Going Up NH4: 24.34 Fluctuating Up & Down PH: 7.8 (Seneye), 7.55 (Monitor) Day 9 - 02.09.13 Prawn still looks bad. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Temp: 28.0oC NH3: 0.113 mg/l (ppm) NH4: 31.73 Fluctuating Up & Down PH: 7.67 (Seneye), 7.55 (Monitor) NO2: 0 mg/l (ppm) NO3-: 0 mg/l (ppm) Day 10 - 03.09.13 Prawn still looks bad. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Temp: 27.8oC NH3: 0.117 mg/l (ppm) @1pm today this dropped to 0.001. Strange but could be just the sensor. Is back up now. NH4: 40.38 Going Up PH: 7.67 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor) Day 11 - 04.09.13 Prawn still looking the same. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Added 4 more prawns tonight ... large ones Temp: 27.8oC NH3: 0.117 mg/l (ppm) NH4: 51.47 Going Up PH: 7.67 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor) Day 12 - 05.09.13 Prawn still looking the same. OK he stink is back now lol worse than before, i think my nose is getting used to it. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.116 mg/l (ppm) NH4: 50.32 PH: 7.48 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor) Day 13 - 06.09.13 Prawn still looking the same. OK he stink is back now lol worse than before, i think my nose is getting used to it. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Should i stop adding this now? Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.190 mg/l (ppm) looks like the 4 prawns are doing something nice jump up OK it looks like the seneye is out, chemical test says 8ppm hmmm NH4: 50.91 PH: 7.45 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor) Day 14 - 07.09.13 Took prawns out. Did a API Ammonia test and it came back at 8ppm Did water change 20% took out prawns and retested. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Air stone running Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 4 - 6 ppm NH4: 4 - 6 ppm PH: 7.45 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor) Day 15 - 08.09.13 Left tank alone. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Air stone running Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 4 - 6 ppm NH4: 4 - 6 ppm PH: 7.45 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor) Day 16 - 09.09.13 Air stone running Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.217 mg/l (ppm) NH4: 32.99 PH: 7.70 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor) Day 17 - 10.09.13 Air stone running Today I took out some substrate for my daughters new 40L Aqua One tank. Added a cheap plant from the pet store in a pot just floating around. Temp: 26.8oC NH3: 0.181 mg/l (ppm) Going Down NH4:63.41 Going Up PH: 7.40 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor) NO2: 1 mg/l (ppm) Figured the NH3 started going down dramatically that i would test for NO2 - Yahoo!! Cycling Day 18 - 11.09.13 Air stone running Added 2 more prawns tonight. Temp: 26.8oC NH3: 0.111 mg/l (ppm) Going Down quick, NH4:97.94 Going Up PH: 7.20 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor)The monitor barely changes, think i may need to recalibrate it Day 19 - 12.09.13 Air stone running 2 Prawns in there rotting away. Will have to buy some fish soon Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.093 mg/l (ppm) Going Down quick, NH4: 118.58 Going Up PH: 7.10 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor)The monitor barely changes, think i may need to recalibrate it NO2: 1 mg/l (ppm) NO3: 20 mg/l (ppm) Going Up Day 20 - 13.09.13 Air stone running 2 Prawns in there rotting away Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.055 mg/l (ppm) Going Down quick, NH4: 144.27 Going Down PH: 7.03 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor) Day 21 - 14.09.13No readings taken as i was away, but still ammonia trending down Prawns still rotting away Day 22 - 15.09.13No readings taken as i was away, but still ammonia trending down Prawns still rotting away Day 23 - 16.09.13 Air stone running 2 Prawns in there rotting away Temp: 26.5oC NH3: 0.039 mg/l (ppm) Going Down slower NH4: 133.47Going Down PH: 7.03 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor) NO2: 1 mg/l (ppm) NO3: 20 mg/l (ppm) Going Up Day 24 - 17.09.13 Air stone running 2 Prawns in there rotting away Temp: 26.5oC NH3: 0.038 mg/l (ppm) Going Down slower NH4: 127.51Going Up PH: 7.10 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor) Day 25 - 18.09.13 Air stone running 2 Prawns in there rotting away Temp: 26.5oC NH3: 0.039 mg/l (ppm) Stable NH4: 113.76Going Up PH: 7.15 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor) NO2: 1 mg/l (ppm) NO3: 20 mg/l (ppm) Going Up Day 26 - 19.09.13 No readings taken as i was trying to sort out a filter flow issue Day 27 - 20.09.13 Air stone is off Planted tank with some plants that i received today Still have 2 Prawns in there rotting away to keep the ammonia up until i get fish. Also upped the temperature Temp: 30.2oC NH3: 0.028 mg/l (ppm) Going Down NH4: 80.83B]Going Up[/b] PH: 7.18 (Seneye), 7.53 (Monitor) Stable NO2: 5 mg/l (ppm) Gone Up NO3: 20 mg/l (ppm) No Change Day 28 - 21.09.13 Some plants still floating till tomorrow Still have 2 Prawns in there rotting away to keep the ammonia up until i get fish. Dropped temp back down Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.025 mg/l (ppm) Going Down NH4: 96.52 Going Up PH: 7.19 (Seneye), 7.53 (Monitor) Stable NO2: 5 mg/l (ppm) Gone Up NO3: 20 mg/l (ppm) No Change Day 29 - 22.09.13 Most plants planted, going to drop the water tomorrow so i can glue the Anubia to my DW (Hopefully not kill the cycle) Still have 2 Prawns in there rotting away to keep the ammonia up until i get fish. Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.022mg/l (ppm) Going Down NH4: 96.52 Going Down - This Fluctuates all the time PH: 7.19 (Seneye), 7.53 (Monitor) Stable NO2: 5 mg/l (ppm) Gone Up, Hope this goes down soon as i want some fish NO3: 20 mg/l (ppm) No Change ********************************************************** LIVE CYCLING RIGHT HERE with Seneye After setting up the Seneye and looking at the Dashboard figured out it does not test for Nitrites & Nitrates. I figure if i keep an eye on the graphs, watch for the spike then test when it goes to 0. Questions: 1. Should I cycle my lights while I am cycling? If i don't have plants do i need to do this? 2. Should I go to the LFS and just buy some cheap plants in pots to just sit in the tank? 3. Should i be aerating the water while cycling? The setup under the tank. Dirty as tank Non-swimming Prawns Decided on the 2 pieces of wood, probably not the best hardscape but yeah, i think it gives and interesting shape. The hollow log did darken a bit which was good to. Any ways sorry for the long post.
  15. I'm just about to set up a 30inch tank to move my 8 Pristella Tetras into. I plan to cycle it heavily planted, using a mix of plants, including a lot of fast growing stem plants that I won't be keeping after the cycling is complete. I'll also be using Seachem Prime and Stability. Firstly, will it cycle ok if I use API Leaf Zone during the cycling process and also, could it effect my API test kit readings? Secondly, my 3ft was cycled heavily planted with 6 small pristellas (and no dramas/high spikes at all, was very seamless), but as I now have 8 and they are fully grown, will it be very different this time round with a) larger fish and bio-load slightly smaller tank. I'm not sure if splitting the school in half and doing 4 until it cycles, then adding the other 4 at maybe 2(?) at a time, would be any better? Or would splitting them up be more stressful for them? All ideas appreciated, Thanks.
  16. This is about using fish/mollies to partly cycle an aquarium. There were some interesting opinions in a thread I was reading else where and it amazes me that near no one seems to remember that we as hobbyists are torturing marine life by placing them into a life that they did not exist in! Every single one of us has killed a few or more of their new pets; it’s part of the learning curb for all this. The hobby in a nutshell is we put these fish and inverts where do not belong and try for the best out comes knowing that this may not happen. I don’t mean just the mollies; I mean the rest of us that are condemning the very thing that we have done, but far worse! Mollies are a hardy species with what is being done with them, in fact possibly more resilient then most marine fish. The cycleling fish I am referring to are mollies were most likely tank bred by people,99.9 of what we buy is not, they come from the wild! The hobby is all about partial or complete torture to marine life, which is sadly how it is! A comment on animal cruelty was made. We as a society have bred wild dogs to suit our needs, cats, we cage birds, we breed animals for meat, cleared land for your homes which has tortured and still is and has killed so much life and is just a small part of day to day human life styles! Animal cruelty is a major part of all of our lives! If you are intending on cycling an aquarium and hope to achieve a high level of simple success, then the biological communities have to have a multitude of varied bacteria that will oxidise all forms of waste. This can come from natural salt water, not much is needed and the bacteria that is in and on dead coral as base rock helps as well to cycle an aquarium. I never use anything other natural means for a perfect cycle to maturity process. For each form of dead tissue or excretion, there is a slight variation of bacteria mutating to accommodate each and every one of these. When you add fish of a delicate nature into waters that has no fish, they are now swimming in waters that has none of the signature bacteria variation to convert their waste. If careful, this usually isn’t an issue if the first fish are relatively strong in adapting and can wait out slight traces of ammonia that will disrupt PH at slight levels but are still there for hours or days. You combine that with adverse affects upon PH from co2 manufactured by all algae when the colours that lighting emits are not there when they are switched off which when on, activates photosynthesis and there is more stress. There are so many variations of bacteria then onto protists for everything that has died on your live rock and that has been fed while cycling or what has been added like frozen marine life or similar. Every thing like algae’s excretions of amino acid and far more plus when it dies, then there is crabs waste, bacteriophages waste, worms waste, corals mucus and waste, the list is endless to the variations of oxidisers and consumers that needs to be in place or at least those genetic markers that are still there for a quick mutation to suit what ever! I for one, once ammonia is stable, always use fish of a robust nature to stabilise waters for the more delicate fish stocks coming later. I don’t put any in the aquarium; this is done remotely in the aquariums water. The hobbyist that was in question was doing something that some disagree with, yet we all live lives that are killing tons of marine life each year due to our numbers and our use of what is manufactured enacting upon climate change. I don’t mean fish stocks taken! This year we are seeing at least 60 percent of all sps in some areas not making it out off here and will become live rock, totally from climate change! That is the big picture near no one bothers with, now the small picture many want to have a say on. The mollies that were in question seem like a sound cycling option for saving other fishes lives. I would pass them on to other cycling hobbyists when water stability is good, that’s what we do for each other. Forums have many members and others on the forums will want the fish to use for their cycling or as pets.
  17. Hi Guys, Would really appreciate some advice here please.... I am cycling my tank a 5x2x2 using a fishless method with clear ammonia see link http://www.qldaf.com/forums/general-aquarium-discussion-19/my-juwel-rio-400-setup-fishless-cycling-86734/ Everything is going well so far. Yesterday I noticed the water wasn't crystal clear like it was. Today on closer inspection it has hundred of fine white hair looking worms?? They are up to about 8mm long, some appear dead some appear to be wiggling. Other floaties..eggs?? look like dust particles. I filled the tank up 13 days ago using our tank water ( I don't think this is the culprit because we have been doing weekly water changes on my daughters tank and she has none). I have put no food or fish in there, just been adding ammonia as required according to my test results. The tank is decorated with Yellow strata rock from AoA which I thoroughly water blasted prior to install, silk plants which I hand scrubbed and this substrate http://http://aquariumproducts.com.au/catalogue_products.php?prodID=4216&catID=107 which stated not to wash. The first few days there was a fair bit of grass like debris floating around which has since been filtered out by the internal 1000lph filter an an external eheim 2080 canister. The water has been a fairly steady 27 Celsius the whole time. All I can think of is that the worms? came from the substrate?? I did a 40% water change today and sucked up a fair amount of vegetable type matter and some brownish residue That's all the information I can give... I think....Have I done anything wrong?? Please help Cheers Gary
  18. So I'm cycling a new tank and have thrown in some shubunkins to get it moving. I wasn't going to risk using feeders and the comets were all sold and I remember my father breeding shubunkins when I was a youngen. Quite pretty little fishes and very active so now I'm wondering if I shouldn't just stick with these guys and accept the dark side in me (joking). What are the joys of looking after cold water fish as opposed to tropicals? I'm in Brisbane so a heater in the water is going to come on about 3 times a year so cost of electricity isn't really a factor. Should I keep them once the cycling is done?
  19. Hi all This is an update on my new tank cycling I have a 6x2x2 tank at the moment running a Fx5 full of Seachem Matrix and standard filter foam. In the tank i have 10 3cm peppermint bristlenose and 3 8cm to 10cm marble bristlenose The tank has been running for about a 5 weeks with the fish in it, initially i added some API Quick start but honestly it didn’t seem to do anything, i started getting ammonia spikes so I did water changes every second day and dosed the tank with prime. It was suggested i use Aquasonic Bio Start for the 7 day cycle which i did and it turned out to be the incorrect method and i should have used Aquasonic Bio Culture. At this stage the water test result were PH 7.4 Ammonia 4.0 Nitrite 5 Nitrate0 I continued with the water changes every second day and dosing the tank with Prime I dosed the tank with Bio Culture and tested the water 3 days late and he results were PH 7.4 Ammonia 2.0 Nitrite 5.0 Nitrate between 0 and 5ppm I just dosed the tank with the second lot of Bio Culture yesterday and did a water test today PH between 7.0 and 7.2 (Hard to tell) Ammonia 0 Nitrite between 2.0ppm and 5.0ppm (Hard to tell) Nitrate about 5.0ppm What are your thoughts, should I continue the water changes and dosing the tank with prime, or should I just does the tank with prime every second day to de toxify the Ammonia & Nitrite Is there anything else I should be doing?
  20. Hi all, We're currently cycling our new 6x2x2 tank for our discus, as we're running out of room in our 4 footers. It's been running for 12 days, and about 3 days ago we added some Cory's and guppies to help with cycling. Today I decided to test the levels for the first time to start keeping an eye on them, and ammonia, nitrate & nitrite are all reading zero. Does that sound normal at this stage? I thought the levels would have started rising a bit already? We're expecting it to take around 4 weeks to be ready, and i thought we should just start with a couple of discus and slowly add to the stocking level. Everyones input would be welcome, love to hear what others have observed through the cycling process Thanks
  21. Well, as you most know, I had a problem with worms, then a full bloom due to idiocy on my behalf. That 4 ft tank was cleaned out, new media, and started cycling on Saturday. Tuesday morning, my filter has how died on my small tank with all the fish I transfered over. I have no other spare tanks/media/filters, etc. I have transfered all the fish over to my 4ft tank this morning, all much happier with all the space, and air, but the tank is uncycled. I have since put all the media from the 70L tank in a breeding net in the airflow, and put in the substrate, plants, rocks and caves. The question is, will this work in sustaining the fish that are in there (7 x 3-6cm B/Ns, 3 x 4cm Ellioti, 1 x Mickey Mouse Molly, 3 x 5cm Thomasi, 3 x 4 cm Bolivians). Is there anything I can do to uphold the survival rate of the fish? I feel like such a noob lately with all the retard questions, but Im just going through a tough phase in life, so I dont need to be treated like Im an idiot. Thanks Josh
  22. Hi everyone, so I am I the process of putting together a new tank and am wondering if I can start the cycle in my sump to try and cut down the maturation time? The only reason I want to do this is because I still have a fee things to sort out before I can use my display tank such as drilling, overflow etc. Not sure if this will work as when I fill the display and link it with the sump I may crash any of the bacteria that have been built up. Any suggestions? This is with a 3ft sump and a 6x2x2 display.
  23. Hi I was just wondering what kind of fish is best for cycling an 8 footer? I figure it would need to be a bigger fish than used for a smaller tank, bcoz it will need to generate enough poop to start the cycle. Fish I have on hand at the moment are; they are in the order in which I would choose Oscars Green Severum Blue Acara Plecos Rainbow Shark Spotted Dollars Clown Loaches
  24. iv heard u can get bacteria in a bottle if so wats the best stuff me can buy im getting impateint waiting for my tank to be ready
  25. Hi I'm going to be running a 4 foot tank with 2 canister filters for my parents and a 3 foot grow out tank for the fry with another external canister. My question is: If I cycle the 3 foot and then take the fish out and have no fish in it for a month or more, but keep the canister running with the same water, does this affect the cycle? And would I be able to add fish to that water safely after more than a month of it having no fish? Hope this makes sense. Thanks Chels.
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