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Found 7 results

  1. so i'm on day 24 of my fishless cycle, my tank is 23 gallons. i still havent seen any nitrites at all they have always been at 0 is there something im doing wrong? at the start i was using a internal filter but have just added a aquaclear 50 to the tank yesterday aswell. i also have a live plant in there aswell as i read it would be good for it.. im also new to this and this is my first tank Nitrite - 0ppm Ammonia - 2.0ppm (at the start i added it up to 4.0ppm, it has dropped since i added more yesterday, not surte if i should make it higher or leave it at 2.0?) pH - 8.5 Nitrate - 5.0ppm
  2. Hi I have been trying t establish a new tank but not having any success and the ammonia is not coming down last 6 days Can any one from gold coast share any substract from an established tank please Thanks Navneet
  3. Hi all, Ok I'm going to try and be as specific and thorough with info as possible because I'm stuck and am not sure where to go from here. First off this is my first ever tank/potential pet fish. I'm drawing a lot of info from my older brother who is more experienced, has multiple tanks and successfully is raising a range of different types of fish. I am also drawing a lot of info from the web. I'm the sort of person who will research heavilly any potential hobbies. My brother uses a fish in cycle, so he hasn't been able to help explain the strange goings on with my fishless cycle. Details are as follows: Second hand tank from said brother. 4' X 12"w X 24"h Substrate: mixed aquarium pebbles. My research says they're PH neutral Hardscape: Foam fake rock wall on back glass, 1 approx 16cm Texas holy rock, a bunch of Pisces Pagoda rock ( Rough ) and a piece of driftwood approx 12cm No plants yet. Filter: 1250lt/h generic cannister with 2 trays of ceramic noodles and 1 tray with course filter pad. I have carbon impregnated fine pad but won't add until cycle complete and even then only to polish water and will eventually be switch for fine/non carbon pad. My reasoning is I need bacteria load in filter, not clear water atm. Other stuff: 300 watt heater set to 30c ( not that it reaches or maintains that heat, being cheap brand. Will switch later to either Jager or Shogun ) Q2 air pump set to highest flow rate with a airstone. No light on tank while cycling. Tools used for cycle: API master test kit. Prime water conditioner. Coles Branded Cloudy ammonia. Ok my cycle started on 3/10. I wanted my cycle to be set at ammonia rate of 4ppm since I plan on having a fair few fish at start/heavy bio load. 3/10 Water conditioned with prime, left to cycle for 30 mins and at 5:23pm I used the calculator online to find out ammonia needed for volume of water and added 8ml. My initial read after ammonia ran in was bang on 4.00ppm 4/10 1am ammonia reading was surprisingly 2.00ppm so after consulting cycling wiki it reckoned once you have a ammonia level drop, add ammonia back to whatever level you're wanting. So I added another 4ml. Checked once mixed and was back at 4.00ppm 1:55pm 2.00ppm 7:34pm 1.50ppm 10:05pm 1.50ppm no change so added 7ml ammonia to top back up to 4ppm. At this point I did a nitrite test because I was surprised my ammonia was dropping this early. It was 0ppm 5/10 11:11am 2.00ppm 3:00pm 1.50ppm 9:19pm 1.50ppm at this point I said I wouldn't add ammonia till 0.25-0.50ppm. 6/10 10:39am 1.00ppm 3:34pm 1.00ppm Nitrite test done again: 0ppm 6:50pm 1.00ppm ( tired of stall added 5ml ammonia ) back to 4.00ppm 7/10 10:32am 3.00ppm 7:40ppm 1.50ppm 4.5ml added and back at 4.00ppm Did a nitrite test and it came up 0ppm again. So rung brother and got him around for advice. He decided to do a nitrate test and low and behold 20ppm. So my question is this, I studied enough to know once the ammonia drops its converted to nitrite. And nitrite eventually becomes nitrate. Cycles I've read about follow the same pattern. Ammonia drops, nitrite climbs, eventually nitrite drops and then when ammonia and nitrite read 0ppm after a 12hr period of ammonia top up, you have a nitrate reading. And cycle complete. PWC then add fish. I also read it takes at least a week to see progress. My numbers and readings make no sense. Can someone explain how this is even possible? And where I should go? I'm hoping at 7:30pm it's 0ppm
  4. Tank: 165L Equipment Basic: Filter: Aquaone Nautilus 1400 - Tray 1. Sponges - Tray 2 & 3. Seachem Matrix Heater: Hydor Inline 300w Dalua SS Freshwater LED Light Additional Equipment: Sera 1000 C02 Reactor Aqua Nova 18watt UV Steriliser CO2 Pro Regulator 2.6kg CO2 Cylinder Monitoring Equipment: Seneye Reef Macro Aqua PH Monitor with power plug Tank Contents: Black Earth Soil II by Aqualabs 2 x Driftwood Basic Parameters Tap: PH: 8-8.5 KH: 8 GH: 10 Basic Parameters Tank 1 hour after filling: PH: 7.5 - Tested using the monitor KH: Not tested GH: Not tested Day 1 - 25.08.13 Filled tank and water became murky from substrate, had to put rock inside log to stop it from floating. Add 20mls of Seachem Stability Set heater to 26oC Tested PH: 7.5 - Tested using the monitor Day 2 - 26.08.13 Tank cleared up & lights came one from timer. I installed the Seneye Reef. Its giving me a different reading to the PH monitor and is saying 8.13, going to leave over night to see if it changes. I also did a API PH test and it was 7.5. Wrapped prawn in net then put into tank. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Temp: 27.7oC NH3: 0.040 mg/l (ppm) NH4: 11.85 Day 3 - 27.08.13 Tank is clear, prawns are rotting nicely. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.049 mg/l (ppm) NH4: 84.61 PH: 7.49 (Seneye), 7.55 (Monitor) Day 4 - 28.08.13 Prawn doesn't seem to be rotting as yet, but i guess it will soon. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.055 mg/l (ppm) NH4: 49.36 Going down PH: 7.49 (Seneye), 7.55 (Monitor) Day 5 - 29.08.13 Prawn is now rotting with some white crap on it, the water is starting to stink a little well a fair bit not. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.058 mg/l (ppm) NH4: 34.48 Going down PH: 7.64 (Seneye), 7.55 (Monitor) Day 6 - 30.08.13 Prawn is now rotting with alot of white crap on it, the room now stinks. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.090 mg/l (ppm) Going Down NH4: 24.44 Going up PH: 7.76 (Seneye), 7.55 (Monitor) Day 7 - 31.08.13 Still stinking Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.101 mg/l (ppm) Going Up NH4:30.07 Going up - Fluctuating Up & Down PH: 7.8 (Seneye), 7.55 (Monitor) Day 8 - 01.09.13 White stuff on prawn is looking like its trying to grow white angel wings. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.110 mg/l (ppm) Going Up NH4: 24.34 Fluctuating Up & Down PH: 7.8 (Seneye), 7.55 (Monitor) Day 9 - 02.09.13 Prawn still looks bad. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Temp: 28.0oC NH3: 0.113 mg/l (ppm) NH4: 31.73 Fluctuating Up & Down PH: 7.67 (Seneye), 7.55 (Monitor) NO2: 0 mg/l (ppm) NO3-: 0 mg/l (ppm) Day 10 - 03.09.13 Prawn still looks bad. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Temp: 27.8oC NH3: 0.117 mg/l (ppm) @1pm today this dropped to 0.001. Strange but could be just the sensor. Is back up now. NH4: 40.38 Going Up PH: 7.67 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor) Day 11 - 04.09.13 Prawn still looking the same. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Added 4 more prawns tonight ... large ones Temp: 27.8oC NH3: 0.117 mg/l (ppm) NH4: 51.47 Going Up PH: 7.67 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor) Day 12 - 05.09.13 Prawn still looking the same. OK he stink is back now lol worse than before, i think my nose is getting used to it. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.116 mg/l (ppm) NH4: 50.32 PH: 7.48 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor) Day 13 - 06.09.13 Prawn still looking the same. OK he stink is back now lol worse than before, i think my nose is getting used to it. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Should i stop adding this now? Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.190 mg/l (ppm) looks like the 4 prawns are doing something nice jump up OK it looks like the seneye is out, chemical test says 8ppm hmmm NH4: 50.91 PH: 7.45 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor) Day 14 - 07.09.13 Took prawns out. Did a API Ammonia test and it came back at 8ppm Did water change 20% took out prawns and retested. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Air stone running Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 4 - 6 ppm NH4: 4 - 6 ppm PH: 7.45 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor) Day 15 - 08.09.13 Left tank alone. Added 10mls of Seachem Stability Air stone running Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 4 - 6 ppm NH4: 4 - 6 ppm PH: 7.45 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor) Day 16 - 09.09.13 Air stone running Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.217 mg/l (ppm) NH4: 32.99 PH: 7.70 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor) Day 17 - 10.09.13 Air stone running Today I took out some substrate for my daughters new 40L Aqua One tank. Added a cheap plant from the pet store in a pot just floating around. Temp: 26.8oC NH3: 0.181 mg/l (ppm) Going Down NH4:63.41 Going Up PH: 7.40 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor) NO2: 1 mg/l (ppm) Figured the NH3 started going down dramatically that i would test for NO2 - Yahoo!! Cycling Day 18 - 11.09.13 Air stone running Added 2 more prawns tonight. Temp: 26.8oC NH3: 0.111 mg/l (ppm) Going Down quick, NH4:97.94 Going Up PH: 7.20 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor)The monitor barely changes, think i may need to recalibrate it Day 19 - 12.09.13 Air stone running 2 Prawns in there rotting away. Will have to buy some fish soon Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.093 mg/l (ppm) Going Down quick, NH4: 118.58 Going Up PH: 7.10 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor)The monitor barely changes, think i may need to recalibrate it NO2: 1 mg/l (ppm) NO3: 20 mg/l (ppm) Going Up Day 20 - 13.09.13 Air stone running 2 Prawns in there rotting away Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.055 mg/l (ppm) Going Down quick, NH4: 144.27 Going Down PH: 7.03 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor) Day 21 - 14.09.13No readings taken as i was away, but still ammonia trending down Prawns still rotting away Day 22 - 15.09.13No readings taken as i was away, but still ammonia trending down Prawns still rotting away Day 23 - 16.09.13 Air stone running 2 Prawns in there rotting away Temp: 26.5oC NH3: 0.039 mg/l (ppm) Going Down slower NH4: 133.47Going Down PH: 7.03 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor) NO2: 1 mg/l (ppm) NO3: 20 mg/l (ppm) Going Up Day 24 - 17.09.13 Air stone running 2 Prawns in there rotting away Temp: 26.5oC NH3: 0.038 mg/l (ppm) Going Down slower NH4: 127.51Going Up PH: 7.10 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor) Day 25 - 18.09.13 Air stone running 2 Prawns in there rotting away Temp: 26.5oC NH3: 0.039 mg/l (ppm) Stable NH4: 113.76Going Up PH: 7.15 (Seneye), 7.54 (Monitor) NO2: 1 mg/l (ppm) NO3: 20 mg/l (ppm) Going Up Day 26 - 19.09.13 No readings taken as i was trying to sort out a filter flow issue Day 27 - 20.09.13 Air stone is off Planted tank with some plants that i received today Still have 2 Prawns in there rotting away to keep the ammonia up until i get fish. Also upped the temperature Temp: 30.2oC NH3: 0.028 mg/l (ppm) Going Down NH4: 80.83B]Going Up[/b] PH: 7.18 (Seneye), 7.53 (Monitor) Stable NO2: 5 mg/l (ppm) Gone Up NO3: 20 mg/l (ppm) No Change Day 28 - 21.09.13 Some plants still floating till tomorrow Still have 2 Prawns in there rotting away to keep the ammonia up until i get fish. Dropped temp back down Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.025 mg/l (ppm) Going Down NH4: 96.52 Going Up PH: 7.19 (Seneye), 7.53 (Monitor) Stable NO2: 5 mg/l (ppm) Gone Up NO3: 20 mg/l (ppm) No Change Day 29 - 22.09.13 Most plants planted, going to drop the water tomorrow so i can glue the Anubia to my DW (Hopefully not kill the cycle) Still have 2 Prawns in there rotting away to keep the ammonia up until i get fish. Temp: 27.5oC NH3: 0.022mg/l (ppm) Going Down NH4: 96.52 Going Down - This Fluctuates all the time PH: 7.19 (Seneye), 7.53 (Monitor) Stable NO2: 5 mg/l (ppm) Gone Up, Hope this goes down soon as i want some fish NO3: 20 mg/l (ppm) No Change ********************************************************** LIVE CYCLING RIGHT HERE with Seneye After setting up the Seneye and looking at the Dashboard figured out it does not test for Nitrites & Nitrates. I figure if i keep an eye on the graphs, watch for the spike then test when it goes to 0. Questions: 1. Should I cycle my lights while I am cycling? If i don't have plants do i need to do this? 2. Should I go to the LFS and just buy some cheap plants in pots to just sit in the tank? 3. Should i be aerating the water while cycling? The setup under the tank. Dirty as tank Non-swimming Prawns Decided on the 2 pieces of wood, probably not the best hardscape but yeah, i think it gives and interesting shape. The hollow log did darken a bit which was good to. Any ways sorry for the long post.
  5. About three weeks ago, I decided to attempt another fishless cycle: I pinched a small quantity of filter media from an established marine tank, and started adding Ammonium chloride at a rate sufficient to produce a 2.0ppm TAN reading. Within a week, I started to see nitrites forming. At this stage, I was adding enough Ammonium chloride to give 2.0ppm on a daily basis, and by next morning, the TAN was down to 0, but the nitrites were greater than the maximum reading (5.0ppm). This went on for another couple of weeks - then, mid-last week I do the usual check in the morning, but the TAN is at 0.5ppm. I didn't add any more Ammonium chloride, and then by the following day, TAN is back down to 0, but nitrites have come down to 1.0ppm. The day after that (when I've added enough Ammonium chloride to give 2.0ppm TAN again), the TAN reads 0.25. I go ahead and add enough to give 2.0ppm. Next morning, TAN is 1.0 and nitrites are down to 0. TAN is still 1.0 three days later. This happened at the end of last year when I tried this - just as the nitrites start clearing, the Ammonia consumption stalls - and stays stalled. Last year, I though I had overdosed on the Ammonium chloride or down something to kill off the biofilter - now I'm not so sure. Any thoughts on what's going on here? (and how I can stop this from happening in future?) Cheers, h_tully
  6. Hi All, I generally spend my time over on the international site, but thought this would be very much worth your while being a QLD/Brisbane based board. I have some great news. I have found someone that is able to get clear ammonia in the Brisbane region with a 6% weight. The shop is located at Alderley square just next to the bakery. I has a big 'Cleaning Supplies' on the front. It took a few days to order it in, unfortunately the shop does not have an 'on-hand' stock, however, the lovely lady said if people start getting it, that may change.. The cost I must admit, was a little steep considering it is only ammonia but in saying that, how long it took to find, I was not really phased. I was charged $40 for a 5lt bottle with a 6% weight. Here is a pic of the location And here is a pic of the bottle label. ENJOY the cycling without hurting any of your fish!!! Jono
  7. Fishless Cycling of the Aquarium The Classic Approach When setting up an aquarium, buy some cheap hardy fish and get the cycle started. These fish have been given names like "Starter Fish". "Suicide Fish", "Disposables" and so on. The purpose of these fish is to provide ammonia through respiration, fish waste, and decaying food. The ammonia allows the first set of nitrifying bacteria to colonize and to initiate the cycling of the tank. During this time of cycling, ammonia and later nitrites will spike up to dangerous levels for the little creatures. Some of them survive the harsh welcome but will not live out their full potential. Of course a few exceptions are tolerated within this rule. The cycle is complete as soon as ammonia and nitrite levels are nolonger measurable by test kits. This classical form of cycling takes anywhere from 30 to 45 days. Another Form of Cycling a Tank is without Fish Set up the tank with all the equipment needed (filtration, heater, light, protein skimmer for marine and reef tanks). Start it up, setting the heater to a temperature around 80 F, then simply feed the tank with fish food. The decaying food will release ammonia and the tank starts the cycling process. To further speed up this process the tank can be seeded with gravel from an existing tank, filter cartridges from established filters, filter media of any kind, biowheels, drift wood, rocks, all taken from established tanks. Bacteria colonize all of the above, so seeding basically means the introduction of existing bacteria colonies into a new tank. The decaying food will provide ammonia for these colonies to settle and expand in the new tank. The time frame of this method does not vary much with the time needed using the classical form of cycling. There is significant risk to create by-products such as phosphates, which occurs by decaying food. The ammonia produced might also be insufficient to create enough bacteria colonies to hold the fish when they are introduced. This will trigger another growth of bacteria with the spikes in ammonia and nitrites. These re-renewed spikes however will be much shorter and less intense compared to the initial ones experienced during the primary cycle. Consequences for the fish are minimal, making this at least fish-friendlier. Both forms of cycling have one thing in common - Ammonia. Remember that a tank has cycled if ammonia and nitrites are back at 0 ppm. At this time you can stock the tank with fish. If no fish are introduced, the bacteria will need to be fed by continuing with the addition of fish food or pure ammonia as outlined below. Using Pure Ammonia to Cycle Instead of using fish food for ammonia production, we can also introduce pure ammonia to the tank. After the tank has been set up (see above), add 5 drops of ammonia per 10 Gallons into the water on a daily basis. Ammonia will rise to 5 ppm and higher. As soon as nitrites are measurable, reduce the ammonia input to 3 drops per day. Nitrites will rise to similar levels. Keep adding 2-3 drops until the measurements of ammonia and nitrites come out with 0 ppm. The tank has then completely cycled. Seeding the tank can significantly enhance this process. 7 days for a complete cycle are not unheard of; otherwise this methods takes 2-3 weeks. The bacteria colonies, using this method, are certainly large enough to handle a well-stocked aquarium. Some aspects to consider The tank has to be well oxygenated as the bacteria require oxygen The ammonia used should be free of any perfumes and additives Do not treat the water with conditioners that remove ammonia Water changes are only necessary if the ammonia and nitrite levels are far off level, which should only occur if more than 5 drops is used per 10 Gallons of water. After the cycle has been completed use activated carbon to remove any possible perfume or additives, which might have been in the ammonia. After stocking your tank with fish, general maintenance of the aquarium is all that is required. The bacteria will adjust to the fish load and if you plan to add new fish the bacteria will have to adjust again. Keep in mind to feed your tank with ammonia until you introduce fish. The waste generated by your fish will then provide the tank with all that is needed to balance the environment. With this method, all aquarium types can be cycled in a very short period of time. Professionals use the ammonia drop method to keep live sand and rock alive, which they sell in their stores. We recommend you read about the nitrogen cycle so you have an understanding about what happens during this cycling period. You will also need ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate test kits to perform your daily testing of the water.
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