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Found 40 results

  1. So my wants finally got the better of me and i decided that i needed to build myself a Fish Room and to do it properly to avoid disappointment in the future. First of all i have limited time for my hobby and while i love my fish, i wanted to ensurer that i kept things manageable. Six tanks + fry grow-out is the initial aim with the ability to add another two tanks (and only two tanks) in the future. The room is to be heavily automated to minimise maintenance and maximise viewing pleasure. Stock I'm Tropheus mad so that room will be designed for 5x2x2 tanks which i have come to believe is the perfect size for a colony of around 20 T's. Heating & Cooling Living in the western suburbs of Brisbane means that both heating and cooling are a necessary part of keeping African Cichlids. Knowing that the room will be heavily insulated once complete the obvious choice is a highly efficient reverse cycle inverter A/C. After much research i settled on the Daikin Ururu Sarara - One of the only 7 star energy efficient split systems on the market and with WiFi control to boot. Insulation I really didn't want to skimp in the insulation department so i ensured i had lots of wall depth and ceiling room and went with Bradford R5 batts (240mm thick) in the ceiling and EarthWool R3.5 batts (140mm thick) in the walls. There's a bit of capital cost involved in decent insulation, however i truly believe it pays for itself in both energy bills and room comfort. Internal Cladding Being a fish room i wanted to sheet the walls with something a little more moisture resistant than plasterboard, so went with Villaboard (fibro cement) on all four walls with plasterboard only on the ceiling. For paint i went with Dulux Wash and Wear Kitchen and Bathroom for it's anti-mould and anti-bacterial properties. Automation I'm hoping to completely automate water changes using a Neptune Apex and a few solonoid valves which i recently purchased from one of the brilliant sponsors here of QLDAF. I also purchased a 1,000L tank to stand in the corner of the room for pre-mixing water to ensure adequate hardness and temperature prior to water changes. Power I ensured that i had a least two GPO's on each wall with data wired through to where the Apex will be positioned. I also had an Isolator switch wired up outside to allow easy installation of the air-con when it comes time. So things are progressing fairly well, however as always there is still lots to do. A few progress photos below: Wall Insulation in and villaboard being installed with a little help from the father-in-law More sheeting installed Top-hat going up to fix the ceiling: R5 Bradford batts going in: The all-important power and data: Isolation switch for Air-Con: The AC unit that i am eagerly wanting to install ASAP: Water tank to go in corner of room: Paint - for when the time comes: I'll try to post some updates once the ceiling is in and the plastering complete. Then it's paint time and i can start moving in the tanks :-)
  2. Everyone knows recommended water temp ranges for Africans but what is the maximum they can handle then start to die? My tank is on 31 degrees for the last 9 days. Comments?
  3. Hello peeps. I would be very grateful if someone could point out the obvious thing I am overlooking and help me figure out the following problem because it has me stumped. Problem Over the last three weeks my nitrate reading has been in excess of 80ppm. Judging my API test kit it lands somewhere between 80 – 160 (hard to tell exactly but the vial is bright red – and yes I have looked at it through the top, sides and held it up to different lights). I am not sure why it’s reading so high as this has never happened before. Facts Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 PH 8.4 KH 10 GH 15 Tap water direct from tap reads 0ppm for nitrate Water changes: 25% every week with new tap water added which has been double dechlorinated and rift lake salts added. API test kit was bought 6 weeks ago and I shake the bottle before the tests for two minutes and tapped it! and I washed the vials with clean water before and after each test. Sump consists of filter sponges (blue then black then white filter wool); then bio balls, then 30ltrs of Marine Pure Spheres, then K1, then 20kgs of crushed coral, then 7ltrs of Matrix, then 9ltrs of Macropore and 500ml Purigen then into the pump chamber. (Note: the Matrix has only just been added) Tanks on sump: 4 (three 6x2’s and a 8x2) Fish stocking: low Feeding: Between 5 and 6 feeds per week. They are not overfed and I only use quality food. Planted tank: no Sump has been running for about a year, however I have extra added media to the sump throughout the year and the Macropore and Purigen has been cleaned regularly. Attempt to Problem Solve After reading the API test kit three weeks ago the nitrate was extremely high. This surprised me so I tested the water out of the tap to see if my nitrate tester was working, and it was, tap water read 0 or close to. So I did a 30% water change, no effect, two days later I did a 50% water change, no effect, then I did another 50% water change and took all the water out of the sump and cleaned all the media, no effect. Now this seems strange because if I did a 50%+ water change surely I would see some difference on the reading, even if it only went down slightly? But no, the readings have all been the same; the vial turns bright red within 5 seconds of shaking it. Given this information I thought I would test my Tropheus tanks which have side drop filters, i.e. individually filtered tanks. Again the same thing, ammonia and nitrite 0, nitrate 80ppm+? This got me thinking. So I got two tanks, completely emptied them both and filled them up with fresh tap water. I filtered one with existing media and the other one with completely new media. After one day from set up, both tanks read nitrates with 80ppm+. The only common denominator between all the tanks is tap water, but when I test tap water it reads 0-5ppm. I have asked a couple of people but they are just as stumped. Something must be happening to the tap water when it goes into my tanks whether they are sumped or individually filtered. I understand that the nitrates will rise over time, but surely after doing water changes I should see a drop in nitrates even if for a short period of time? and there shouldn’t be any on a brand new tank with new media. Solutions So what have I missed? Is it something obvious? Does anyone have any idea what could be going on or how I can reduce nitrates? All I know to reduce nitrates is to do water changes or add chemicals or add plants. I know AOA does Nitraguard so I may give that a go as water changes are not cutting it. My theories are: a) Test kit is stuffed – but how can I get a different reading from the tap to the tank? I have high nitrates because of the number of fish – very doubtful as I have verified this with someone on this forum who is very experienced. c) Tap water has high nitrates because of high usage over the Christmas period and the water company is messing with the parameters – this is possible because how else can I explain a brand new tank set up having high nitrates. d) Don’t worry about it and carry on as usual – this has been my thinking over the last week in which I have done another couple of WC’s. My fish seem healthy, they have a strong appetite, no one is hiding in corners, had no deaths, and I have a ton of mouthfuls from various fish in the 8fter (not keeping them they will spit and become food). Thank you all for taking the time to read this. Cheers.
  4. Hi everybody! I've got a problem with my 4ft corydoras tank. On Sunday, after my regular weekly water change and gravel vac, I noticed my corys weren't as active as normal and later that night observed them darting to the surface constantly for air and acting sluggish. I did an emergency water change the next morning and had the old water tested at my LFS to find high ammonia levels. So since Monday i've been doing twice-daily water changes of about 50% each, and while my ammonia levels have dropped significantly, my nitrite levels have started to rise. Seeing as my tank is probably cycling at the moment, are these twice-daily water changes too much? And is there anything else I can do to try to alleviate the stress on the fish? I was using Ammo-lock and Prime initially, but switched over to Supachlor that I received in the mail today (I was worried my Prime is a bit old). I've also got Nitra-zorb in the canister filter and am adding Easy-Life to the mix as well, along with Aquasonic Bio-aid super concentrate and API Quick Start. I've also lowered the water level to get more agitation from the spray bar and powerhead that i've got attached to a 30x12x12 cm pre-filter sponge. I've had the tank for at least 9 years and some of my corys are 10+ years old, so it's not a new tank. Unfortunately though, i've suffered two fatalities so far. Anyway, thanking everyone in advance and apologies if i'm a bit all over the place, i'm pretty stressed at the moment, as I'm worried about my little buggers and want to see them hit 11+ years and beyond! Update 25/2/15: The ammonia issue is pretty much gone (the most I get is 0.5mg/L @ 26C), but my pH seems to be dropping. A day after my weekly water change it's at 6.5 and drops down to between 5.5 and 6, and i'm not sure why.
  5. I've got a fibreglass bathtub outside as a fish pond, the ph seems to go up all the time. My tap water is about 7.6 but it has been raining a lot lately and filling the tub up. I thought the rain water would lower the ph if anything. I don't have any substrate in the tub Just duck weed and some goldfish the ph gets up to around 10. The goldfish have been eating and growing no problems. The seal on the bath tub seems abit rough, just wondering if the fibreglass would push the ph up?
  6. Just wondering how high would you make the divider before the heater if I was to make a sump like this .
  7. ....Hi all looking to buy a 2nd hand or ner new display tank for my Frontosa colony needs to be with a cabinet not a stand. if anyone's looking to sell one with in 2hrs drive from Toowoomba qld 4352 let me know pm me or sms me on 0403745984 cheers
  8. The latest Giesemann Futura-S Led's have hit Australia in both Marine & Tropic Individually programmable and dimmable colour channels on a per-module basis Available in 2/3/4/5/6 module sizes Up to 4320 programmable set points over the light period Wireless data transfer via Bluetooth The smallest version already has 10 individually programmable and dimmable colour channels on a per-module basis Loss-free secondary optics narrow-angle/wide-angle Made in Germany 2 year warranty LINK TO TECHNICAL DATA ON FUTURA-S LED MARINE & TROPIC Pure White in Colour. Other Colours available on request. Please contact sales@aquariumproducts.com.au for pricing / availability. Unique to the FUTURA-S is the ability to adjust levels on a 'per-module' basis, meaning that different light saturation levels may be programmed for different areas within the same aquarium dependent on the stock requirements in that particular area. Experiences of more than 20 years With more than 20 years of experience and product development, we were able to raise the quality of light from LED lighting to a new level. Precision is important to us: the light-emitting diodes used are highly color stable and guarantee a homogeneous and clear color perception. In addition to the high light output and a balanced distribution of light, our systems offer a long service life and avoid any maintenance. High end components LED - "light emitting diodes" - are even electronic components and need, as well as all other types of lamps, in the form of an electronic control gear. The in-house development of electronic modules gives us the freedom in the design of form and function and the ability to respond quickly to innovative changes. With its own board layout, equipped exclusively with carefully selected CREE® LED, GIESEMANN guarantees optimal light output and color rendition. Maximum life by perfect temperature management Design measures to keep the LED modules in the uncritical temperature range. Every one of our LED lamps is fitted with high-capacity microcontrollers that, in addition to the function control, monitor the internal operating temperature of the LED. Sophisticated cooling elements combined with an electronically controlled active cooling ensure operation under ideal conditions. Only they can provide their high performance over the entire operating time. Intelligent light network The integrated networking of our lighting systems generated from individual light modules, an intelligent lighting network. Only with the hardware and software of the light control system allows to exploit the potential of LED technology fully. All luminaires and lighting control components from GIESEMANN contain their own microprocessors in order to appropriate programs to realize the so-called firmware, all kinds of functions. Therefore, in addition to our lighting technicians and electricians and computer scientists are among the development team. Useful functions instead of useless gimmicks In the development of LED lighting for aquariums, it is the same as everywhere: innovations benefit not alone - they must be meaningful. Means for driving the LED, for example: not increased GIESEMANN just going to continue the current consumption of each LED - we make sure that every technological advance brings a noticeable improvement. With our lighting systems, you can feel the difference in every respect, the highest power output and long life of each light point. Optimum light output Even with the best LEDs on the market is able to benefit even more - if you have the right technologie: our driver technology optimizes light output, color and power of each LED - without harming the material. * System requirements: Android 3.0 or higher (recommended), WindowsXP, Vista, 7, 8 or Apple Mac OS X; Bluetooth. Priced from $1799.00 Link - Age of Aquariums - Giesemann Futura LED's Ben
  9. Sea plankton living in space - science | Stuff.co.nz
  10. Hi guys, Have just finished cycling a cichlid tank with existing filter media. I am getting low readings of nitrates and low readings of ammonia (non existent). 0 - 0.1 I changed water and I use seachem prime (double dosage) and my ammonia readings go up so i Tested the tap water, with a nutrifin test kit. the tap water reads at 2.4 (checked twice) anyone else have these problems?
  11. I am wondering if anyone might know what could be causing the nitrate levels to be very high in my tank. I am 10 days into a new cycle, running a new filter. Ammonia is 2.0 nitrite is 0 and nitrate has been very high. Before my first water change, day 7, it was 160 then after it went down to 40. I did the water change 3 days ago and I am going to do it again today. I just tested everything again and nitrate is still high as expected. I know nitrate is less harmful and it will reduce again after doing another water change but it doesn't make sense and I need to figure out what had caused it. From my understanding a cycle goes like this... Ammonia levels peak within a couple of weeks and then turn into nitrite, the nitrite peaks within a couple of weeks and turns into nitrate, then it peaks within a couple of weeks which is then removed by changing the water and then the cycle is complete right? So how can nitrate levels be so high right from the beginning? I am guessing my ammonia is about to peak, hence the 2.0 ammonia reading and 0 nitrite, then nitrite will peak etc etc etc I only have 1 Oscar which is fed once a day and has not really made a lot of mess, and running a Eheim classic (2217) I have plans to run my Jebo also as a back up but need new pipes and bits n bobs first so figure my eheim should be plenty to keep the tank clean for now, it is a 4x 1.5x 1.5 ft (66 gallon) tank. Any ideas? TIA Oh and one more thing, what is everyone's thoughts and experiences on seachem prime? Yay or Nay?
  12. So i'm in need of a sump pump for a new rack consisting of four 3x15x18's and one 6x15x18. Maximum head of 2.2m, however i'm hoping to have quite a lot of flow in the tanks. Three pumps currently being considered to sit in the sump: Aquael pfn 10000 Plus - Large pumps Tunze Silence Pro 1073.110 - TUNZE GmbH High-Tech Aquarium Technology: Catalog Laguna Maxflo 9000 - Laguna Powerjet | Laguna Maxflo Pond Filter pumps The Laguna is the cheaper option, however the Aquael has flow control and i have not had a single problem with any piece of Tunze hardware i have ever owned. Decision, decisions......
  13. hello fellow fishkeepers, well im very happy to work out photobucket and can now share my experiances building my dream tank! a 240gallon 8x2x2 fully planted tank here are some pics along the way of this long journey to planted paradise please enjoy and keep green from troy 8x2x2 custom made starfire front + sides starfire visability shown twin cabinet i made from hmr white and stainless tank on raw cabinet
  14. I somehow ended up with a fish tank that uses light bulbs that are specifically only used in these Juwel fish tanks. I need to find replacement bulbs and have had no luck. Tried a online Melbourne fish shop but at checkout it said the seller details are not correct so the place must be shutdown. Preferably someone on the sunshine coast that sells them or else anyone that could post these bulbs would be great. If anyone can tell me how I can get hold of:Juwel T5 High Lite Tube 54w 1047mm Please help.:confused:
  15. Today is supposed to be 37 and saturday expected to be 41 but may go higher then that. Get buckets ready for water changes, and extra filters for oxygenation, maybe useing frozen milk bottles in smaller tanks. Be careful everyone, and drink a bit of extra water yourselves too
  16. Has anyone seen any around lately. I am starting a breeding program with some that I got. The male has a blue sheen over his body and through his top fin and the females have yellow streaks through the fins and a blue green sheen. I am attempting to bring back nice convicts so I am on the lookout for quality, preferably over 8cm. So if anyone has seen any please let me know. Cheers mick
  17. Well I'm planning on going back down the pressurised route again Except this time I would like more control over the stuff in my water and purchasing an r/o Which is gunna be the water used to fill tank and also for water changes and the like I'm gunna be running a 4 bulb unit with 6500k 54w and 2 planted bulbs Also il be pressurised as said using a verges style reactor plumbed in through my return line But the thing I would like to know is feet regime's I would like to keep it more simple then I did last time and I think that's where I went wrong last time So I will be starting with r/o water now what would be a good direction to go down from here(tank holds 450ish litres without sump)
  18. Hey guys, Just tested my water with an API Master Test kit 2 days after doing a water change and my parameters are as follows Ammonia - 0 Nitrite - 0 PH - pushing 8.0-8.2 it seems Nitrates - pushing 40ppm Previously the tank was running at around PH - 7.4 Nitrates - were around 5.0ppm after introducing Purigen. My concern is the rise in the PH as well as the higher than usual nitrates 2 days after changing 25% of the water Tank is 25Litres with Red Cherry Shrimp and a Mystery Snail running Aquaclear HOB with Seachem matrix (and original bio) and purigen Water temp is up from about 25-27 with the current hot weather here. Should I be concerned at these levels? I recently started feeding the shrimp daily, rather than every 2nd day, could this be the issue and should I go back to this? Any ideas are appreciated. EDIT: Water is straight from a Water Tank also
  19. I have a 2x15x15 that I can not seem to get a 'right' stocking for. It has a internal power head filter so the current is quite strong. It just seems too small for most fish. Can anyone give me ideas lol. Im kinda stuck and have been for ages lol. :roll:
  20. Hey guys I'm about to do a water change and my tank is 6 months old. My nitrate is high but my ammonia and nitrite are both 0 ph is 7.2. Is there something wrong here cause my filters were cleaned 2 weeks ago with used aquarium water. The only thing is that a visitor put a fair amount of food in my tank while I was away cause they wanted to see them eating... Not happy.
  21. Ok i have Cichlids Venustus Fry Red Empress White Knights Convicts + Fry RF Jewels Angelfish Marble and Silver + Fry Livebearers Mollies Guppies Catfish/Suckerfish Common BN Sailfin Pleco Can someone please help first by coping and pasting my list and add to it whether they are Carnivores, Omnivores or Herbivores. Also whether they should have high or low protein food, or can have high protein as an occasional food. What would you call high and low protein levels? eg between __% - __% At the moment for my fish i have Dry Omega One Super Veggie Flakes 33% Protein AquaFX Marine Pellets 35% Protein (was recommended to me for my some of my Cichlids) Hikari Cichlid Gold Mini Pellet % Protein Ocean Nutrition Community Formula Flakes 47.5% Protein New Life Spectrum Grow .5mm pellets 50% Protein Hikari First Bites Powder % Protein Hikari Algae Wafers 36% Protein Frozen Bloodworms Brineshrimp Cyclops Lastly who would you personally feed what to? Not asking for much hey.....;-) Thanks heaps Nicole :-)
  22. Hi guys, I have a slight problem!?. I have a 4ft tank with 17 African cichlids. I have an issue with brownish, powder like residue on my 3d background and on the lava rocks. Got my water tested and found out my nitrate is high (they said that could be a cause to the brownish stuff?) So i was told to do a 30-40 % water change everyday and i should see a slight differance in a day or two (which i haven't) I have an Eheim 350 classic external, Otto internal down the other end of the tank, which they have been cleaned (of course in tank water, not under the tap ) and i have done 30-40 % water changes three day running now and my test are; Nitrate: 160 Ammonia: 0 ppm Ph: 8.0 What's going on??? I thought i would see a slight differance but the nitrate is still high. Does it take awhile for nitrate levels to go down,if so how long? OR am i doing something wrong? I have had the tank for years but just recently changed back to cichlids and have been up and running for approx 4 months just about 5 months now, Please help and thankyou all for reading. P.s Is there anythin out there on the market to help me reduce the Nitrate. Cheers!
  23. Hi All, My tanks are meant to be at about 24 to 27 degrees, but with all this heat they are up at and just over 30 degrees. Is this normal for tanks during summer? Will it cause issues for my fish? I turned the heaters off to make sure that they're not faulty and over heating the tanks but it is still staying high. I don't have lights on 2 tanks and haven't been turning the other tank lights on where possible to try to stop any more over heating but that is not helping much either. What do i do... Also in a few of my newer tanks, more so in the ones that have live plants, I am getting cloudy gooey stuff on airline tubing and everything else that is rubbery. Is it a new tank thing? Most of my tanks are a little less then a few months post cycled, but i know it takes a lot longer to be free of the New Tank Syndrome. Is it dangerous to my fish? I have also noticed that i have some very tiny snails that must of hitched a ride in on the latest plant additions to the tanks. But could something so tiny be causing or making this worse, i'm pretty sure the gooey stuff was around before the snails. especially on the airline tubing in particular, but now its spreading and becoming quite thicker and more noticeable, even in the tanks that have no plants and no snails. It's hard to know the exact cause when all my tanks that have it are set up and maintained differently depending on the needs of the fish and plants. I have been trying to get rid of it by rubbing it off the surfaces then vacuuming out as much as i can when doing my now more frequent water changes, but within a day or two its back. What the hell is it and how do i stop it from happening, permanently if thats even possible. Is anyone else having this problem PLEASE HELP.... IT IS GROSS!!!! All and Any advice welcome Nic
  24. Is there any secrets to getting my nitrogen level down in a marine tank ? I Have done many water changes the last was 2 days ago 3/4 water change.It is Still sky high , I have live rock,crushed coral in a 3 ft tank sump system,feed is very minimal no waste, no decomposing fish this thing has me beat. Any advice is gonna be apreciated.
  25. Hey guys, exactly as the title reads. I need a good pump to run about 5 sponge filters but it needs to be as quiet as possible as all my tanks are in my lounge room and the noise annoys my house mates. Cheers, Sam
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