Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'issues'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • QLDAF - Announcements, Technical Support, Welcome Room
    • Welcome Room & Beginner's Corner
    • Announcements & Events Calendar
  • QLDAF - General Aquarium Discussion Forums
    • General Aquarium Discussion
    • Help with Fish Health, Diseases and Water Quality
    • Aquarium Projects, DIY Journals,
    • Ponds And Aquaponics
    • Marine and Reefs
    • Australian and PNG Natives
    • Articles & FAQ
    • Photography & Video Lounge
    • General Appreciation for members
    • Off Topic Discussion
  • QLDAF - Aquarium Trader / Classifieds (Wanted & For Sale)
    • QLDAF Live Stock Trader
    • QLDAF Aquatic Plant Trader
    • QLDAF Dry Goods Trader
  • QLDAF - Sponsors, Clubs & Societies -- Enquiries sponsorship@qldaf.com
    • Sponsor Sanctum
    • Clubs

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Interests


Location


State


Biography


Interests


Occupation

Found 36 results

  1. Hey everyone, Im new here. My name is Joseph, im 21and im from SA Im in a regional area, and i dont stray much past it because of my health (mental) . Fishkeeping has been a great help to my quality of life but i have been doing things wrong in the past. so im trying to learn the right way. Im just about to purchase a 4ft tank. 300l (80 gal). I understand about the nitrogen cycle,filtration, heating and what not. But PH stumps me. I just invested in a API freshwater master kit, GH&KH and a TDS meter. My tap water after being conditioned, heated and agitated for 24hrs is as follows. PH 8.3 GH 107.4ppm KH 125.3ppm Nitrate 0 I would ideally like the ph to be 6.8-7.5. I used to use the ph up and down chemicals. but it always fluctuates. Id like to do it right this time. If i need to buy a RODI system that is ok. Thanks for any answers. and if my post isnt written well i didnt really go to highschool sorry in advance.
  2. Hi guys i started my tank and purchased dr tims one and only and the ammonia chloride he provides and dosed my tank in accordance to the instructions provided. They claim their product can cycle a tank in a week. Great marketing and got sucked in admittedly. I have had ammonia at 2 ppm throughout and nitrites don't want to start. It's now day 7. I have plenty of aeration. Temp is 28 degrees. I've seeded the tank from another filter I have running (fx5) and took two of the outer sponges out and placed it in the (fx6) in the new tank. The new tank is 800 litres. Ph is about 8.4 Has as anyone used this? am I doing something wrong or is it just taking longer? should I buy more bacteria from the LFS? have fish on hold and don't want to put them in but getting pressure to finish the cycle as the LFS is running out of space to house the fish. Also is 2ppm ammonia sufficient to house the following: 10 x Frontosa 12cm 8 x cuckoo 4 x calvus
  3. What do you think. I have mixed views. some deformities could be caused by water conditions. if I breed and raise in good water will that address? What can and cannot be bred out of a line? Thoughts?
  4. Came home today and the arms of my orange starfish are all breaking down, no idea what is happening, all parameter are good and haven't changed. Any ideas?
  5. Hey guys I'm new to the planted tank and haven't had the best track record with plants in my tanks. I've started a new planted tank and are having some issues with my Java Moss. So has anyone else ever encountered that white/grey furry stuff on there Java moss? And as you can see there is some die back so I'm trying to work out if this stuff is causing it. Any help or ideas would be great. Cheers Jack
  6. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a password protected forum. Enter Password
  7. New member with fish problems! Before I begin: they're mums fishes, but I've had to take care of them the past 1.5 weeks and problems have popped up. I've been reading non-stop about these things online, but if someone can give me some advice specific to my situation, it would be appreciated. - In short: New fish, new fountain, new plant, overfeeding for the last week, recent heat wave saw water levels fall a fair bit To save you all from a whole heap of reading: 9 y/o goldfish is sick - red streaks through its tail, which is torn and ragged. Occasionally seems listless but observed swimming around normally otherwise. Been told it could be ammonia or other types of poisoning Other goldfish was added ~1 month ago, 1yo, tips of fins are black, just slightly, ammonia burns? Fishes have been moved recently into a new fountain by mum. Don't think it was cycled? Size ~55L Pet store told me that: new tank, new fish, new plant in tank, recent heat + low water levels are the cause Was given Melafix bacterial and anti-fungal remedy for 9y/o fish, plus water conditioner to use for both Told to take out the plant just in case the soil is problematic? Separated the fish after the 1yo fish started aggressively trying to nip at 9yo fish tail when plant was removed. Not sure why it suddenly did that [*]Yesterday - partially changed water + topped up levels, separated fish, put water conditioner & Melafix in. PH around 7.5 [*]Today - got an ammonia kit, reading was about 4 Partially changed water 15-20% twice today in my panic, not sure if this was a good idea Ammonia levels were low after the water change, but I understand I should give time after water change before measuring it? Advice needed on: Water change frequency/amount? Should I get something to lower ammonia? Anything else that could help me save them, because if they die on my watch, I'll end up suffering the same fate too Pic below is the 9yo fish. Red streaks through tail and seems torn. Top picture is from yesterday when I just noticed it, bottom picture is today. Lighting is different because I've moved the fish. Just to give you a clearer picture about its condition. Help would be greatly appreciated!
  8. Hi All, I need some help, advise please. I have a four tier rack with one aquarium and a sump now (my plan that I will extend it with an other fish tank minimum ). The sump is 90Lx60Wx30H cm the fish tank is 90Lx60Wx40H. There are 2 outlets from the tank with 20 mm bulkheads and pipes. These pipes are going to a main pipe, which is 40mm. The inlet from the sump back to the fish tank is 20 mm. I use a 6000 l/hr pump, which has 4 meters head. Today morning, when I set the plumbing up I had to use a secondary pipe from the end of the sump to the beginning of the sump because there was too much water flow into the fish tank. But later this flow rate is reduced and I had to turn off this valve because the water level of the tank is started to reduce. The distance between the pump and the inlet valve is 100 cm. In the near future I want to set up an other tank as well (90Lx60Wx45/50H cm), which inlet valve will be about 150-160 cm from the level of the pump. I don't understand why was good the water flow and the water level in the beginning of the starts and what happened later. Before I order the pump I was looking for lots of information between the rate of the height and L/hr of pumps. I counted with this height and I thought it will be right. What do you think guys? Do I use the outlet pipes with unsuitable diameters? Is there too much elbow in the plumbing? I should use a smaller diameter pipe for the pump? Or other issues with I forgot to figure it? In my opinion, this pump should be enough for this small rack (2 fish tank and a sump) system but what is your view about it? I'm afraid of there will not be enough water flow for the second tank... I have attached a couple of pictures about the system hopefully is help to identify the problem. Thanks, Jani
  9. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a password protected forum. Enter Password
  10. Can somebody help with my plant issues. I currently have a few bunches of thin Val and a few Java ferns in with a sole Green Terror. The java Fern is looking great but the thin val looks like the leaves are rotting and breaks away and then I have floating leaves every other day. I don't have any lighting but it is a fairly well lit room and no CO2. I am thinking of scrapping the val and getting a few more Java ferns and some anubias but is there something I may be doing wrong with it? Cheers
  11. I bought a small (about 8cms including tail)black and orange oranda from the LFS this morning (not much in the wen department, but still a cutie). I didn't watch him long enough at the store, and within seconds of getting him in to the quarantine tank I knew he had a problem. The poor little guy keeps head standing to the point of backflips. He's not floating at the surface though. Staying near the bottom of the tank. I took him straight back to the shop, they tested my water which was all fine (PH 6.9, 0 to nitrates, nitrites and ammonia FYI ). They gave me refund. The store isn't 'fish dedicated' so I didn't think they would try and get him to recover. I offered to give it a shot..... So they gave him back to me free of charge. I've given him a couple of shelled peas which he devoured, and he's in a small tank (about 30L) with a sponge filter that's all juicy with good bacteria (I keep it running in my larger tanks for occasions like this). I'll do 50% water changes daily for him - I'm in the country on tank water - so no extra chemicals/conditioner used. It's been about 7 hours since the peas, and he looks worse. How long does it take for peas to help? Would a salt bath be worth a shot? And if so, what ratio? I've never had to deal with swim bladder disease before - any suggestions would be most appreciated. I don't think today was my lucky day for fish, I picked up a black ranchu from the other LFS in town, and didn't notice he had an eye missing till I got home! They offered to swap him over, but I'm kinda attached now, and obviously I'm a sap for 'damaged goods'.
  12. Hi. I have been using Resun pond pumps for a number of years, first the 5F and more recently the 6F. On the whole I've found them to be quite reliable work horses, though with some peculiarities. Over the life of these pumps they've had at least 1 impeller replacement but all have shown the same oddity. Unlike other impellers i've come across, the magnet at the base of these impellers has a fitted metal jacket. Not a bad idea at first glance, until you take into account metal wear. Compare my original 5F impeller base to a much newer, thought being replaced for unrelated reasons 6F impeller base. Over time the rounded metal jackets sheers through with both models litering the impeller chamber with metal shards. I had hoped the 6F impellers may have resolved the issue as they come with 2 extra thick hard plastic washers however I have still found metal shards. I presume both these washers are suppose to sit under the impeller? I just received a new 6F impeller today where they are both above the impeller so I'd appreciate if anyone can confirm the correct location? As for the metal sheering, am I missing something or is that a design issue? If I where cynical I might be tempted to wonder if it where to encourage periodic replacement... 5F impeller 6F impeller
  13. Hi, We have a fluval 305 running in our display tank and it has just started making weird noises (like clanking noises), has been running fine before that without issue. Have given it a clean, put it back in to place and after a couple of mins of getting rid of air bubbles, the noise starts again and there is no pressure from the output. Does anyone have any idea's on what the problem could be? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Andrew
  14. Over the next couple of hours the forum may experience some technical difficulties (nice timing with auction items deadline approaching) Our server is experiencing some difficulties and is under maintenance. we expect everything to be OK soon sorry for any inconvenience. Webmaster
  15. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a password protected forum. Enter Password
  16. Okay so my tank has now been established for 6 months and I'm getting a massive massive problem with Diatoms..... well it looks and acts like diatoms but now I'm not so sure the algae is in fact that Specs: 35Ltr ADA Amazonia Aquasoil Eheim Aqua Compact 40 4 x Cree XM-L series 2 Cool White LED running 3.19v @ 1.5A ~ 700lm each PH 6.3~6.4 @ 30ppm CO2 Fertilizer routine is normally 1/8 KN03 three times a week 1/32 KH2PO4 three times a week 1/32 Trace three times a week Below are the photos of the tank.... I cleaned nearly all the algae out (I'm not worried about the green algae at this point, that's only there because I did something extreme to try to control the Diatoms), so less than 24H later I wake up to a tank thats already showing alot of Diatoms all over the bloody hair grass and some of the stem plants..... Previously I've already tried: Constant water changes every 2~3 days: Nil effect Removing any old growth or anything that looked like it was dying: Nil effect 72H blackout: nil effect putting a large bag of Phoszorb into the filter: removed 90% of the algae but did not totally remove it, caused Green hair algae to start growing and signs of phosphate deficiencies in all my plants..... Above + 72H blackout: No further benefit other than killing off the green algae Removed all sandstone from the tank and replaced with inert lava rock that I've used before without any problems Currently I've removed the Phoszorb from the filter and started full fertilization again..... the funny thing is that the plant in the rear left (Next to the filter intake) never gets any growing on it...... The plants used to grow really well and I was trimming them on a weekly to fortnightly basis.... since the start of the Brown algae invasion they have almost stopped growing all together.... except during blackouts when they grow about 1 inch each..... Before you all say it's the lights not being strong enough or wrong spectrum...... the entire tank pearls constantly..... anyway...... Photos below [ATTACH=CONFIG]36339[/ATTACH] If it is the lights being at the front Voltage.... would going to XP-G LEDs be a better option?
  17. heya..need a little advice please ..im moving on the 7th june..handover of house isnt untill 330 that afternoon.. new house will only let us set up tanks on the same day..after 330.. kinda sucks ..i wont be able to cycle tanks at all..so i guess hope for the best..any ideas.. these r my tanks....1x new 5 foot ..8 goldfish plus 2x catfish plus 2x clown loaches 1x3 footer ..community tank ..mollies/platties/catfish.(fry..2 cm) 1x 2footer x 2 betta boys 1x 90 litre community tank..platties/clown loaches/platties/mollies/catfish.. ...praying they will all be ok travelling distance from old home to new one ..15 mins.. thankyou for any advice cheers
  18. Hello my fellow betta lovers (and other fish fanatics!), For the last few weeks I have been cursed with my mould growing in new microworm cultures. Anyone have any hints on how to help fix this? So far I've used Farex and wheatbix and both giving me the same result. Unfortunately, I have a brand new spawn that hatched this morning so really trying to sort this out as soon as I can considering I used the last of my old culture to make ANOTHER one just then. Thanks, Hachi
  19. Recently I've been unable to change my avatar, and now my profile pic and avatar have gone and when I try to get them back it says upload failed. Anyone else having similar issues????
  20. In discussions with many hobbyists we often have concerns about the quality and availability of certain species of fish. Often the situation is very different when we move to a different state. I would really like to see an effort by the forum this year to make a signficant change to the quality of fish avaiable. This is a big call, but I believe achievable if the forum as a whole decides. I am reminded many years ago a very small forum decided to address the quality of kribensis, by starting a project to share thoughts on quality, and also to swap livestock amongst members to increase the genetic diversityand guide selection and culling. The gent was Simon and the forum The Cichlid Tank that was focused on dwarf cichlids, before dwarfs become cool. I think with the number of members we have we could make a real difference to the hobby in terms of selecting fish in need of improved breeding, and where needed pulling together to make bringing fish from interstate more affordable to all members. I would like to hear things that we can do as a forum to make a significant difference in the coming year to the hobby as a whole. Steve
  21. G'day all Names Angus and I'm new to the Aquarium game. Ive just purchased a 4ft Tank with a stand, light, gravel, rocks, drift wood etc.... I'm trying to set it up for some African Cichlids that I'm purchasing from a friend. Problem... the aqua-one Canister filter that came with the tank isn't working. it starts up and runs for maybe a minute, then stops for 5. This cycle repeats. I've replaced the Impellor and that hasn't changed anything. does anyone have any ideas? Or should I cut my losses and but another canister filter? Cheers all.
  22. Does anyone know where on the Gold Coast I can get my Haliea 1000a looked at? Started tripping the safety switch this morning. Cheers Shane
  23. Hello everybody, I'm in need of help moving 2 tanks from the gold coast to Goodna does anybody have a truck/car trailer or something that can move 2x 8 ft tanks and stand? Compensation is a givin, tolls, lunch, fuel, I'll pay for
  24. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a password protected forum. Enter Password
  25. ok so the basic story is that i brought my tank over a year ago and now im setting it up. first thing i did was upgrade the return and overflow lines to PVC with a 30mm inside diameter. -my return pump is 6000l/ph - i have 2 overflow bulkheads that are 26mm inside diameter my problem is that no matter what i do it makes a siphon and flows to fast then drops the water line till it makes the gargling noise. if i allow air in the back of the pipe via a whole i can open and block the siphon is never made but the tank just keeps filling up my question would have to be what flow rate should you expect from 2 26mm bulkheads (they are quite close the the top of the tank) any help would be appreciated. ill get some photos now to make it easier to understand Edit: Photos
×
×
  • Create New...