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Found 27 results

  1. Been cycling my aquarium, and have been able to get the nitrite etc to 0 but the nitrate is really high, when I test it using the Red Sea kit it goes bright pink 50+ but when I do the 1ml to 4ml Ro test comes out about 5 and when you times it by 5 = 25. I have invertebrates etc in the tank and they are fine. Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue with the Red Sea nitrate/nitrite kits, think I might grab a different brand today and see if it makes a difference. Sent from my iPad
  2. Hi guys what makes nitrite and nitrate go up in a fish tank
  3. Hi all, In the last few weeks, I tried to fight nitrate war around 60ppm, now it is nearly 0 with help of lot of hair algea plus newly added nitra guard (two small cubes) and new 140g chemipure. Please advise what I should do to reduce hair algea, currently I need to use an auto toothbrush to brush the libe rocks when doing water change. Any short tips to try will be greatly appreciated, thanks.
  4. Can anyone recommend a decent nitrate test kit? I have been using API, I'm on to my third nitrate kit and they all seem to stop working after a short period of time (maybe 3-6months?). I go from a steady 10-20ppm to 40-80 and no matter how many water changes I do, the result stays the same. Thanks in advance!
  5. Hello peeps. I would be very grateful if someone could point out the obvious thing I am overlooking and help me figure out the following problem because it has me stumped. Problem Over the last three weeks my nitrate reading has been in excess of 80ppm. Judging my API test kit it lands somewhere between 80 – 160 (hard to tell exactly but the vial is bright red – and yes I have looked at it through the top, sides and held it up to different lights). I am not sure why it’s reading so high as this has never happened before. Facts Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 PH 8.4 KH 10 GH 15 Tap water direct from tap reads 0ppm for nitrate Water changes: 25% every week with new tap water added which has been double dechlorinated and rift lake salts added. API test kit was bought 6 weeks ago and I shake the bottle before the tests for two minutes and tapped it! and I washed the vials with clean water before and after each test. Sump consists of filter sponges (blue then black then white filter wool); then bio balls, then 30ltrs of Marine Pure Spheres, then K1, then 20kgs of crushed coral, then 7ltrs of Matrix, then 9ltrs of Macropore and 500ml Purigen then into the pump chamber. (Note: the Matrix has only just been added) Tanks on sump: 4 (three 6x2’s and a 8x2) Fish stocking: low Feeding: Between 5 and 6 feeds per week. They are not overfed and I only use quality food. Planted tank: no Sump has been running for about a year, however I have extra added media to the sump throughout the year and the Macropore and Purigen has been cleaned regularly. Attempt to Problem Solve After reading the API test kit three weeks ago the nitrate was extremely high. This surprised me so I tested the water out of the tap to see if my nitrate tester was working, and it was, tap water read 0 or close to. So I did a 30% water change, no effect, two days later I did a 50% water change, no effect, then I did another 50% water change and took all the water out of the sump and cleaned all the media, no effect. Now this seems strange because if I did a 50%+ water change surely I would see some difference on the reading, even if it only went down slightly? But no, the readings have all been the same; the vial turns bright red within 5 seconds of shaking it. Given this information I thought I would test my Tropheus tanks which have side drop filters, i.e. individually filtered tanks. Again the same thing, ammonia and nitrite 0, nitrate 80ppm+? This got me thinking. So I got two tanks, completely emptied them both and filled them up with fresh tap water. I filtered one with existing media and the other one with completely new media. After one day from set up, both tanks read nitrates with 80ppm+. The only common denominator between all the tanks is tap water, but when I test tap water it reads 0-5ppm. I have asked a couple of people but they are just as stumped. Something must be happening to the tap water when it goes into my tanks whether they are sumped or individually filtered. I understand that the nitrates will rise over time, but surely after doing water changes I should see a drop in nitrates even if for a short period of time? and there shouldn’t be any on a brand new tank with new media. Solutions So what have I missed? Is it something obvious? Does anyone have any idea what could be going on or how I can reduce nitrates? All I know to reduce nitrates is to do water changes or add chemicals or add plants. I know AOA does Nitraguard so I may give that a go as water changes are not cutting it. My theories are: a) Test kit is stuffed – but how can I get a different reading from the tap to the tank? I have high nitrates because of the number of fish – very doubtful as I have verified this with someone on this forum who is very experienced. c) Tap water has high nitrates because of high usage over the Christmas period and the water company is messing with the parameters – this is possible because how else can I explain a brand new tank set up having high nitrates. d) Don’t worry about it and carry on as usual – this has been my thinking over the last week in which I have done another couple of WC’s. My fish seem healthy, they have a strong appetite, no one is hiding in corners, had no deaths, and I have a ton of mouthfuls from various fish in the 8fter (not keeping them they will spit and become food). Thank you all for taking the time to read this. Cheers.
  6. I am wondering if anyone might know what could be causing the nitrate levels to be very high in my tank. I am 10 days into a new cycle, running a new filter. Ammonia is 2.0 nitrite is 0 and nitrate has been very high. Before my first water change, day 7, it was 160 then after it went down to 40. I did the water change 3 days ago and I am going to do it again today. I just tested everything again and nitrate is still high as expected. I know nitrate is less harmful and it will reduce again after doing another water change but it doesn't make sense and I need to figure out what had caused it. From my understanding a cycle goes like this... Ammonia levels peak within a couple of weeks and then turn into nitrite, the nitrite peaks within a couple of weeks and turns into nitrate, then it peaks within a couple of weeks which is then removed by changing the water and then the cycle is complete right? So how can nitrate levels be so high right from the beginning? I am guessing my ammonia is about to peak, hence the 2.0 ammonia reading and 0 nitrite, then nitrite will peak etc etc etc I only have 1 Oscar which is fed once a day and has not really made a lot of mess, and running a Eheim classic (2217) I have plans to run my Jebo also as a back up but need new pipes and bits n bobs first so figure my eheim should be plenty to keep the tank clean for now, it is a 4x 1.5x 1.5 ft (66 gallon) tank. Any ideas? TIA Oh and one more thing, what is everyone's thoughts and experiences on seachem prime? Yay or Nay?
  7. Hi all, just done a midweek test on all my tanks starting with a couple of Africans. Ph,Gh,Kh,nitrite all fine, nitrate 160 OH 5HIT!! Ok tested shrimp tanks all good but nitrate 160, hard to believe with the types of shrimp all happily breeding away. Tested fully planted tank again nitrate 160. I think it's time to stop using dip testers lol. Cheers mick
  8. If theres one thing that seems to confuse new saltwater aquarists, its the term "nitrate factories". Its really not that tricky though, and I thought it would be a good topic for a thread. In essence your microbe filtration in a marine tank is made up of 2 parts. (1) areas where microbes can grow that are high in oxygen (2) areas where microbes can grow that are low in oxygen In area 1, many of those microbes will eat ammonia and nitrite. In area 2, many of those microbes will eat nitrate. Both areas are important. Its often harder to have enough of area 2 though. There are alternatives, such as carbon dosing or using a macro algae refugium. Anyway a quote from a poster on saltybox......... Writen by PaulTys
  9. So I was at AOA the other day & the I was talking to Ben about test kits & how most of them aren't designed for the low levels that we in the shrimp hobby have to keep our water partameters at, I mentioned that there's noting out there that does low range of calcium or in particular nitrates & without even flinching he said "Salifert does!". I was a bit apprehensive at first & asked if it will do as low as 5ppm(most test kits only go down to 10ppm) & he told me it would go as low as 0.2ppm, gob smacked I said I'll give one a try & see how it goes. When I got home I opened the box to check the contents, looks simple enough! I started to read the instructions & found there is a high range & low range reading, but what confused me was the fact that you don't have to do a different test for the two different ranges. I started to do the process, 1ml of tank water with the syringe provided, then add 4 drops of the liquid reagent Then you add a spoonful of the powdered reagent & swirl for 30sec(don't shake) You wait 3mins & then check against the chart from the top down, simple enough huh? Now this is where the test gets very cool indeed, if the test reads below 10ppm from above in the "high range" then to change to the "low range" you just look at the same test sample through the SIDE, that's right, same sample but looking through the side & then you divide the chart numbers by 10 to give you the "low range" reading values. i.e. 100ppm from the top becomes 10ppm from the side, 2ppm from the top becomes 0.2ppm from the side, etc, cool huh! All I can say is MIND BLOWN!!! I am a total Salifert convert now & have already ordered the calcium kit & will post up a review of that one as soon as I get it. I'm also keen to get the ammonia kit too. Apparently the guy who owns Salifert does one thing & that is design & refine test kits for aquarium use, which is why they are so good, he doesn't have a million different products in his range so he can concentrate on making his test kits the best there is. Anyway I thought I'd share this with you guys cause if you are having the same problem that I was & couldn't get a reading on any normal test kit then this is definitely the test kit for you.
  10. Hey all, Had my tank going for probably 6 weeks now. I have 10 lecky yellows 2 blue dolphins and a red tp black shark. They are all doing fine and not being effected by the water (my daily or every 2nd day water changes are probably helping) but i cannot get 0's across the board. I get Ammonia basically 0, Nitrite 0-.25 and nitrate 10. Any tips to help me improve this? He is what my sump looks like except I dont have the bio balls anymore i have the coral in the first section (Since it is underwater) and I also have the water running through filter mat. Suggestions ?
  11. Hey guys I'm about to do a water change and my tank is 6 months old. My nitrate is high but my ammonia and nitrite are both 0 ph is 7.2. Is there something wrong here cause my filters were cleaned 2 weeks ago with used aquarium water. The only thing is that a visitor put a fair amount of food in my tank while I was away cause they wanted to see them eating... Not happy.
  12. Hi guys, I have a slight problem!?. I have a 4ft tank with 17 African cichlids. I have an issue with brownish, powder like residue on my 3d background and on the lava rocks. Got my water tested and found out my nitrate is high (they said that could be a cause to the brownish stuff?) So i was told to do a 30-40 % water change everyday and i should see a slight differance in a day or two (which i haven't) I have an Eheim 350 classic external, Otto internal down the other end of the tank, which they have been cleaned (of course in tank water, not under the tap ) and i have done 30-40 % water changes three day running now and my test are; Nitrate: 160 Ammonia: 0 ppm Ph: 8.0 What's going on??? I thought i would see a slight differance but the nitrate is still high. Does it take awhile for nitrate levels to go down,if so how long? OR am i doing something wrong? I have had the tank for years but just recently changed back to cichlids and have been up and running for approx 4 months just about 5 months now, Please help and thankyou all for reading. P.s Is there anythin out there on the market to help me reduce the Nitrate. Cheers!
  13. There are ways that have been in play for many years to reduce nitrate from your saltwater aquariums to such an extent that it does not exist at all for the marine aquarium hobbyists to have to deal with or your tank inhabitants to be slowly poisoned by this part of the nitrite cycle! In order to achieve the natural process of nitrate reduction, you need to establish what used to be called and I still call, a dead spot. This is somewhere the aquariums water that when waters arrive at that point, is virtually void of available oxygen! Oxygen is represented with in the water as 2o of the H2o,this the tank life can not utilize, so that’s never part of the equation, unless you are concerned about PH.then it is critical? Nitrate reactors are an expensive low functioning example of how this low oxygen process of a dead spot is applied with their slow flow function. You can make one or more your self very easily as we played with years ago. The anaerobic bacteria that oxidises nitrate to nitrogen needs darkness and near no available oxygen to survive, you let the other forms that exist in a no oxygen environment and you get what hobbyists get when they disturb an old substrate, a tank crash. Firstly you need to understand, what is a dead spot (nitrate reduction zone). Nitrate oxidation can be functioning once your tank water can penetrate deeper then 15 to 20 mill with in a substrate. Also with in live rock, inside a reactor that has such a slow flow that the available oxygen that reaches the media with in is near nil, quite often in these its an artificial media, like bio balls-sponge-cubes, that’s a mistake! Any area you run the tanks water over or past that is not capable of the water flowing through it, will accommodate anaerobic life to oxidise nitrate to nitrogen! The old ways of bio filtering that are not used much any more developed a negative name for it and the trendy and monetary influences that have controlled the hobby for all the time I have been a part of it, played on its bad name for filling up with rubbish and perpetuated it to rip off hobbyists and it is still in full swing today! Any surface area in the aquariums water will become a (nitrate factory) any porus media in the aquarium or sump that the water has not been cleaned correctly before it gets to this media will become a nitrate factory! This is what you need to achieve oxidation of nitrite to nitrate as quick as possible to not give your tank life forms, more so fish, a nasty death! The problem is that the most affective means of oxidation of nitrate to nitrogen has been covered up by miss information, more then anything to extract extra money from you, the hobbyist! Its much easier and more money to be made by selling you some over priced gear that something far cheaper could have achieve far better if the water can be kept clean before arrival! Any porus media that could have remained aerobic externally and anaerobic internally that the water has not been pre filtered correctly before it gets to it, is to become a nitrate factory, guaranteed!!! A slow flow barrier and then a settling style of pre filtering saves this media from becoming the silly trendy term, a nitrate factory! If you do not understand a section of this or any of it, ask about that section and I will explain!
  14. I was wondering what peoples thoughts are on Nitrate Reactors for fresh water systems. Might look at trying the Skimz NM152 Nitrate Reactor.
  15. Hi All, I was talking with a fellow forum member last night (he seemed to think he knew what he was talking about ) about controlling nitrates in the aquarium and as i'm in the process of setting up a 3.5K L system i was hoping to keep water changes to a minimum. I was wondering what others do to keep things under control.. I figure there is 3 basic ways of controlling nitrate: 1/ water changes.. probably best for displays 2/ refigium.. a 4ft planted tank with wisteria, duck weed, even lucky bamboo. also a slow flow with the water being feed into the tank via underground piping. 3/ denitrate coil.. using bacteria to breakdown the nitrate in an anerobic environment, aka without oxygen. sweet link with inf: Coiled Denitrator DIY - 3reef Forums
  16. been rushing around for the last four day trying to get my nitrates down spiked way above my test kit. done heaps of 50% wc fish seemed more stress by my intense meddling with thier house. finnaly today i decide to read my test kit intructions tests for total nitrate (nitrate + nitrogen) soo the flourish i had dumped in to get some plants going was the cause it was me dohhhh any body else know about this
  17. hi just looking for info about red sea no3po4-x to bring down nitrate in my growing system set up its geting a bit overpopulated and looking a short time solution
  18. anyone have any clues on this? I read you can use Vodka to remove Nitrate from your tank? anyone tried it? How to lower nitrates in a saltwater aquarium - by Elizabeth Schmitt - Helium. I prefer Scotch myself,,,,,for me , not the fish!
  19. hi all, i know that all plants remove nitrate from the water but was wondering if there is any that use more than others. preferably low light plants to remove nitrate from a system. i was thinking of an aquaculture tray to grow some vegies but dont want to run massive lighting. my system is usually around 10ppm but does spike to 25 occasionally. thanks, mick
  20. Has anyone used one of those denitrification filters to help keep the nitrates down in the tanks? Apart from water changes, what do you guys do to keep nitrate low? cheers
  21. My test kits arrived today and have gone on a testing spree. They are both Nutrafin test kits and says Nitrite kit (0.0 - 3.3mg/L) Test Nitrate kit (0.0 - 110.0 mg/L) Test Our main 4ft tank 212Litres has nil Nitrites as it was clear. Nitrate was around 5mg/L no higher and the leaflet said that you only have to start worrying if it starts to get over 50. Our 2.5ft tank and holds 200L as it has very high sides Had approx 0.2mg/L NitrIte as it was between 0.1 & 0.3 Nitrate was around 5 as well Our small 2ft Breeding Guppy tank Had approx 0.1mg/L NitrIte as it wasn't quite clear. Nitrate was also around the 5 So I think everything is ok. Please let me know if I need to do something. I gave our 2.5ft tank a small water change not a lot but something. Jane
  22. Can somebody please help me, I can not get my nitrate levels under 40ppm. Have tried every trick in the book, change water weekly 60 l, have installed de nitrate in filter, regular tank maintainence,always vacum gravel, condition water, etc. I have 200 lt tank Fluval 305 filter, noodles top tray, de nitrate middle tray, gravel bottom tray. 10 chiclids Tap water tests fine, less than 5ppm Have sought regular advice from my local pet shop dude, still not getting under 40ppm. Thing is, all fish are well, 5 pairs, all breeding regularly. Anybody got any clues ??
  23. Struggling a bit with high nitrate (ammonia and nitrite are zero, ph around 7.5) tanks are well filtered, Canisters with noodles, aqua clay, fine and coarse wool plus powerheads in some and biosponge filters in others. Know they usual things (less fish, ceramic rings, water changes, feeding less, more filtration etc.) but would be interested in hearing if there are any great products out there that actually works. Anyone with some good experiences? Cheers, JW
  24. Hi guys, I'm having problems with algae and nitrates at the moment. This has been since I screwed up and left my filter off for about 3 days a few weeks ago. Anyways, I did a water changer earlier this week but noticed the last couple of days that my substrate (calcium carb) was getting very green. So I did another water change yesterday (about 25%), and cleaned the gravel. Once it was done I noticed that all my calvus and comps are not looking happy at all. They are just basically hanging either up in one of the corners, or down on the gravel in another corner. I was hoping by tonght they'd have come back around, but no go. So I checked pH and I think it is a little low (my kit only reads to 7.4, but it is coloured a bit darker than the blue for 7.4), there is no ammonia, but nitrate is somewhere between 10-15 ppm I've got a recipe for bringing the pH up, but my question is does anyone know of anything I can do to rid my tank of the algae I'm getting, and the associated nitrate problems? Ive been using AlgaeFix but it doesn't seem to be doing the job. Thanks guys
  25. have some control issues with my nitrate is high and lost a fish today i guess because of it never had a problem with it before the only thing i have changed is i now use seachem lake salts and trace elements how do i get it down to were it should be i am @ present doing a 20% water change everyday third day now and still now change someone help me please
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