Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'nitrates'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • QLDAF - Announcements, Technical Support, Welcome Room
    • Welcome Room & Beginner's Corner
    • Announcements & Events Calendar
  • QLDAF - General Aquarium Discussion Forums
    • General Aquarium Discussion
    • Help with Fish Health, Diseases and Water Quality
    • Aquarium Projects, DIY Journals,
    • Ponds And Aquaponics
    • Marine and Reefs
    • Australian and PNG Natives
    • Articles & FAQ
    • Photography & Video Lounge
    • General Appreciation for members
    • Off Topic Discussion
  • QLDAF - Aquarium Trader / Classifieds (Wanted & For Sale)
    • QLDAF Live Stock Trader
    • QLDAF Aquatic Plant Trader
    • QLDAF Dry Goods Trader
  • QLDAF - Sponsors, Clubs & Societies -- Enquiries sponsorship@qldaf.com
    • Sponsor Sanctum
    • Clubs

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL











Found 9 results

  1. .So I just received my API master test kit from AOA and tested my 4 foot 200 litre tank for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and ph. These results were after a 50% water change. ammonia 0 nitrites 0 nitrates 160ppm (as high as it would read). ph7.4 After seeing the nitrates being so high I did another 75% water change adding water ager as I filled the tank back up retested the nitrates and they are around 100ppm, (still too high). The nitrates of the water straight out of the tap are 5ppm. I didn't gravel vac either time just did a straight water change though I normally do a gravel vac at least once a fortnight. My my tank is fairly heavily stocked at the moment because I came into possession of some fish I wasn't expecting and I have a 30cm silver shark that thrashes around like a lunatic when I gravel vac so I'm worried he will hurt himself. So my question is do you think these results are safe? I also thought doing a 50% then a 75% would have dropped my nitrates a lot more than they did. Do you think this is normal? Should I do another water change in the morning? Should I gravel vac when I do the water change? I have 2 anubias and a large clump of java moss and 2 small amazon swords in the tank aswell if that makes any difference. I've got an under gravel filter aswell as a 1500l/h internal filter aswell as 2 large sponge filters in the tank. Any feedback would be appreciated.
  2. Hey guys i'm just wondering what people find is the best way to keep nitrate down or filter it, i have a 5x2x2 with 50 or so african cichlids 5-7cm in it running a otto 2000lph internal filter and a ehiem external canister 500lph 0 amonia and 0 nirtite but i'm regularly getting excessive nitrate (round 80-100 ppm) trying to find a better way to reduce it? Thanks in advance
  3. Hey guys, Just tested my water with an API Master Test kit 2 days after doing a water change and my parameters are as follows Ammonia - 0 Nitrite - 0 PH - pushing 8.0-8.2 it seems Nitrates - pushing 40ppm Previously the tank was running at around PH - 7.4 Nitrates - were around 5.0ppm after introducing Purigen. My concern is the rise in the PH as well as the higher than usual nitrates 2 days after changing 25% of the water Tank is 25Litres with Red Cherry Shrimp and a Mystery Snail running Aquaclear HOB with Seachem matrix (and original bio) and purigen Water temp is up from about 25-27 with the current hot weather here. Should I be concerned at these levels? I recently started feeding the shrimp daily, rather than every 2nd day, could this be the issue and should I go back to this? Any ideas are appreciated. EDIT: Water is straight from a Water Tank also
  4. Hey guys I have seen a few custom algae 'scrubber' setups online (see Site for Goldfish Keepers - Algae Filter(Scrubber)) and after just recently moving a tank outside and algae building up on just 1 side of the glass, I was wondering if it would be beneficial to keep this there as it will be taking out toxins from the water?
  5. Hey guys, haven't even had time to log in for months. But! I'm not dead, and I'm looking for some advice. As you (might) know I have my lungfish, Tadpole. He's getting bigger now and even at only 35cm (and in a 5ft tank!) he's starting to cause some series nitrate issues. I use sand/fine gravel mix for the bottom which I vacuum over and 'fluff' up before each waterchange, though he does a damn good job of keeping it moved around. =) Current Tank stats: 5x2x2 fx5 for filtration (mostly filled with matrix) Livestock: lungfish (approx 35cm) archerfish (approx 15cm) olive perchlet x10 (cleanup crew) purple spotted gudgeon (12cm, he's headed out of the tank as of the next few days though) Nitrates are consistantly at least 80-100ppm even with weekly 50% water-changes (only this large at the moment because with the way Tadpole eats, I have no choice). I plan on upping this to a 30-50% each weekend and a 30% mid week when I can. Looking for any suggestions on keeping the nitrates down until I get a sump on there and can expand my water volume. Thanks! P.S. - This is even more important as I'm getting a 2nd lungy soon and I'm compounding my problem. =)
  6. Seems an interesting topic to have a discussion about Whether it's possible to have 0ppm Nitrates... Now I use API ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and high range pH Sera for gH and kH And have hagen test kits for phosphate, calcium and magnesium (maybe iron too I think) as well as ammonia, nitrite and nitrate Now the question is whether you test for nitrates and get 0ppm or not? and does 0ppm mean anything bad to you? I know for a fact that my API test kit for nitrates work because I've got positive readings from it before for a 6 week experiment that I did on multiple tanks I have tested for nitrates and I do get 0ppm for nitrates, I've also used my Hagen test kit for nitrate and it still results in 0ppm For those who use the API colour chart, the test tube is a yellow colour for 0ppm I haven't done a water change for 3 months either (leave the positives and negatives for that for another discussion) I suspect it's having a high water volume, aged tank, multiple types of filtration and low number of fish are the reasons However I'm not really discussing water changes more the actual results test kits give Anyways, I would like to argue that it's possible to have 0ppm or so close to 0ppm that it's undetectable using a generic test kit Just some evidence for the argument, not attacking anyone just after a discussion on the topic "theres no way your nitrates are 0ppm" http://www.qldaf.com/forums/general-aquarium-discussion-19/algae-problems-51390/ " a nitrate reading starting at least at 5ppm, for most ppl under 5ppm indicates somethings wrong. " "You should have ammonia 0 if the tank is cycled and at least some nitrate reading." "each tank should have a positive reading for nitrates." http://www.qldaf.com/forums/product-diy-technical-discussion-11/checking-waste-levels-12212/ "Your readings shouldnt all be 0, theres usually some nitrate in any tank" http://www.qldaf.com/forums/diseases-fish-care-water-discussion-12/fish-death-all-wc-readings-0-please-help-48935/ Your thoughts on the topic?
  7. Hey Guys Just started testing my nitrate levels. So the question is, what do you like to keep yours below?? Iv done some searching on the net, but it seems it can be a personal thing. Thanks Matt.
  8. Originally holding Africans, the 6x2x2 tank was stripped of rock 3 weeks ago and sand substrata retained. Water was siphoned off stirring constantly to remove mulm via siphon after 30% of clean water prior to removal retained. The 30% was put back in the tank and topped up with 30% rainwater and 40% tap water and the total volume treated with prime. The tanks was planted with 30 Amazon Swords and various anubis and others, treated with flourish and left for a week with daily readings showing nil ammonia, nitrite or nitrate, with a ph of 7.8 and kh of 7 which I intended to reduce with gradual water changes. Two large driftwood pieces (not rotting) and some small. 8 discus to 8cms were added (coming from a ph of 7.6) and daily rainwater changes were undertaken of 15% to gradually soften and reduce ph. Feeding was, and still is minimal till fish settle. Filtration FX5 with original seeded media kept circulating whilst the system was changed after media first being rinsed in tank water. Media Matrix with old purigen replaced with 500mils of new. Today, 10 days later, I noticed some minimal flicking from a couple of discus and a general "instinct" from myself that all wasn't well. kh 3 ph 7 ammonia nil nitrite nil nitrate 20??????? As I said, feeding is minimal, plants are doing well and show no rot, so any ideas where the nitrate is coming from? cheers kev
  9. hi can anyone tell me my problem with my nitrate. the rest of my paremerters are good, ammonia 0 nitrite 0 gh 89.5 kh35.8 (a little low) and ph6.8 i do 30% water changes about twice a week with every third water change for the last month being 50% but i cant get nitrate below 40 any ideas would be good and most will be tried as i dont think my oscars will breed im these conditions cheers
  • Create New...