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Found 13 results

  1. ok so i am getting my first discus for my tank tomorrow and am just double checking that my parameters are good. ok so my nitrates are less than 5 ppm, my temperature is 28 - 30 degrees. I am however worried about my Ph, it is constant at 6.5, but when i do big water changes it can go to 6.7 (it comes back down to 6.5 within the day). will this have a bad effect on the discus? also how much can the ph change on a discus tank? my tank is about 300 liters aswell. thanks
  2. Hi guys, I have come back to aquariums after a long while off, and am looking for some help in setting up a new tank. With the glut of products that seem to all do the same thing, I'm after a shopping list of things I'll need, just so I can order in one go and be done with it. I live rural, so have the option of rainwater tank, or town bore water. Town bore water has a strong hydrogen sulphide smell, and I guess has added chlorine. Am unable to test at the moment, as I have been waiting 3 weeks for my test kits to be sent out from Brisbane. Seems some shops don't get the whole "online" context. I'm thinking of using rainwater in my tank, due to order stuff ups, I have had a whole collection of plants sitting in a rainwater container on my veranda, and they are all growing great guns, quite amazing to see! Tank is using eco complete as a substrate, a MML RGB LED and a aquel canister with Pure,Matrix, and macropore Cycling. Do i just chuck in some fish food and let it go? Heh, what a great song. Use one of the cycling type products like AquaCulture biostart/bioculture Seachem Stability Water condition - Fish will be Tetras Seachem Equilibrium Aquasonic Amazon Blackwater water conditioner Water treatment Seachem Safe Seachem Prime Supachlor Ferts Dino Spit Dino Pee I'll be able to give ph and hardness results when the test kits arrive. im hoping with being rural and having no industry around, the water will be rather soft. At this point I have a reg for CO2, but no gas bottle. Probably not much in the way of refilling one either, unless I go with BOC.
  3. Hi I am new to the world of aquatic soils, having always relieved on just gravel and sand. I'm trying to get a better understanding of how the stabilised substrates work. I recently started a tank with one (can't remember the brand off the top of my head) that stated it would set water to pH 6.5 and kH 2. Great! What does that actually mean in reality though? Does it mean substrate + water equils those values, or do they apply over time? Is it measurable to what extent they will buffer? I'm wondering in particular about things like driftwood which would naterally lower pH. How much would aqua soils negate the pH lowering, or would it be a battle of buffers and tanons? What about co2 levels which would also naturally lower pH? I realise the more common pH/kH methods for deriving co2 concentration wouldn't be accurate, but would injected co2 still lower pH? Again, which win, soil or gas?It's all a bit new so i'd welcome some wiser minds!
  4. Just seeing what you guys and girls think of my water for soft and lps corals only. Ammonia - 0 Nitrites - 0 Nitrates - 20 (this is coming down tho) calcium - 400 Magnesium - haven't got a test kit for this one yet but it should be between 1380-1400 I will check this tho Ph - 8 Kh - 12
  5. Hey all, Please bear with me through this epic essay of my issues! The plan is a soft water acidic community aquarium consisting of a combo of Neons, Rams, Bolivian butterfly's, Bristlenose, Corys and a Krib (don't judge me, I must live out some childhood memories here before I move onto the more interesting stuff). So here I am, after three and a half weeks, my cycling is all done. All the time I've been trying to get my water parameters to a reasonable level and failing... miserably. Obviously having slightly acidic water would be a plus, though given the trouble I've been having, even getting to neutral would be fine. My parameters out of the tap pH 7.6-7.8 kH 3-4 gH 5-6 First up I tried a combo that was recommended to me that included Seachem Neutral Regulator and Acid Buffer. Whilst I had some success getting the pH down to 6.6, I kept finding the pH would be creeping back up to 7.6 after a day or two, no matter how much was added. Then I changed mot of the water and did an experiment using peat moss in the external canister, which also go the pH down to 6.4-6.6 with a kH of 0-1 and GH of 2-3, but with even a 10% water change the pH shot up to 7.6. Unless I use an ageing barrel, I can't see this working any other way, and even then, the lack of buffering would make me a little uncomfortable... Having somewhat given up at that point I thought that I'd just try Seachem Neutral Regualtor by itself. In a 50L test bucket it took about 10x the recommended dose to even get the pH from 6.6 to 6.4. Another fail! Someone on here recommended I try KH generator and pH down. I've yet to give that a go... Rain water really isn't an option for my in the current residence, though if I really tried, I could probably find a way to get a 240L wheelie bin attached to the drain pipe and hope it rains once a month... though it would be a pain. RO/DI water is my seemingly last obvious option. Would a combo of Seachem Acid Buffer and Alkaline Buffer in the correct proportions, along with Replenish be enough to keep that pH just under the sodding 7.0 mark? I'm willing to go down this route if there is no other way. Or I could just hope that the fish can adapt to my 7.6 water, and expect a few losses. I gotta say this is quite frustrating, and the inability to figure out a clear cut answer is getting to me. I swear most of life's problems aren't anywhere near as difficult as keeping my pH down at 6.8 :ballchain:Thank you for bearing with me. Any advice would be appreciated! Otherwise I might just have to hit up some native rainbows (which I'll get to anyways! ) Cheers
  6. just opening a debate on weather you should breed fish in their "ideal" wild water parameters VS something closer to the environment your fry will end up in. as an example i will post this, Why Loaches Should Not Be Kept With Malawi Cichlids — Loaches Online for me loaches make ideal malawi companions, rarely picked on by the cichlids and most likely are happier in a group of 5 or 6 regardless of their companions, or "im-perfect condidtions". i mean 25 degrees being at their low of "ideal" parameters, despite their habitat often incorporation run off from mountain strains. i use limestone rocks and just now "dead live rock" in my tanks, but do not test my water, think water changes do fish more good than Ph adjustments, ammonia or nitrite (new, overstocked or overfeed fish) tests or nitrate worrying. to emphasis my topic why would you breed mollies in low salinity salt water, or malawis in specific lake salts only to sell your fish to the 95% of people who throw their fish in dechlorinised tap water that you could estimated to be around 7Ph, give or take 1 either way.
  7. Hey gang. Just received my master test kit & checked the water condition. They all came back to, No3 - 0 No4 - 0 ammonia 0 Ph is sitting at 6.6 Very happy with these results
  8. Hi guys just after a little advice there seems to be a lot of confusing information On the water hardness regarding tropheus any tips on kh and gh parameters Also this is my first post so hi to everyone mick19
  9. I have a 4ft 1.5ft 2ft tank it has been running for 3mths now and havent had a problem yet till now. I do 25% water changers once a week. Ph is about 7, ammonia 0 nitrate 0 I have got one of my spray bars pumping oxygen into the tank and it's sitting at around 26 degrees. I have about 4500lph total of canister filtering it which was cleaned about 4weeks ago. Lighting is 4x4ft t5 for 8hrs. Stock 6 ellioti 3 firmouth 6 blue eye cichlids 4 red tailed goodieds 1 bristlenose 3 Hokaki carfish. I have noticed as these fish are getting bigger they are getting more and more aggressive. At the moment I think I have a pair of blue eyes and firemouths trying to breed and are bossing everything around. The ellioti are now chasing each other quite offen and I have one which has been breathing heavily for the last 2 days. To date I've lost on goodied and a catfish and don't want to loss more any suggestions??
  10. Just wondering what water parameters I should be aiming for in my mostly malawi display tank? (I have just aquired the freshwater master kit & kh/gh test.) Also, if the results are out what the appropriate action is to correct it? Ive heard of a few homemade remedies such as bi carb etc. Not sure if these methods are the best or would be safer to use a specific retail product? Thanks in advance!
  11. Just a quick question guys. I have previously used the following products in water changes in my tank - Aristopet Aquamaster Water Ager (Chlorine Neutraliser) & Seachem Neutral Buffer 7.0 - Based on some info I've found in discussions it seems that the general opinion is that Ph Buffers are not really necessary unless you're specifically aiming for a very high of very high low Ph (as fish will adapt to the water). So am I correct in thinking that I could forget about the NeutralBuffer 7.0 because generally most water would be around the neutral range anyway? Water changes are done with 50% tap water (using the Water Ager to de-chlorinate) and 50% tank water. Thanx for any help guys
  12. Hi all, I'm looking to set up a red hump geo tank, and was wondering about water parameters. From my research these guys like water that's neutral to slightly acid, with hardness around the 5 mark (happy to be corrected on this). I've got access to a rainwater tank so as an experiment I thought I'd test the parameters of the tank water versus our tap water, here's what I came up with: Tap - pH 7.2-7.4, kH 3-4, gH 6 Tank - pH 7.0-7.2, kH 2, gH 5 Would the tank water be too soft, or should I go with the tap water supplemented with some neutral buffer (I believe Seachem sell a pH 7 buffer)? Reading on the forum it seems straight rainwater can lack trace elements the fish need, so perhaps a 50/50 mix with tap water would be OK? I'm going for a pretty basic tank setup, sand substrate with a few rocks/driftwood (would love some gold vine) and I understand these guys are fairly adaptable but I'd like to give them as close to what they need as I can. Happy for any and all tips.
  13. One of my older angelfish (shes about 5) who has been in a tank by herself for a good month and a half has rapidy deteriorating fins. I'm talking - water change was done on thursday last week - regular 25-30% changed, normal dechlorinator added and on sunday she developed a hole in the middle of her top fin. i thought that she may have torn it on an ornament so treated with melafix. Hole was twice the size on monday and today her 'feeler' snapped off. I don't understand as all my water parameters are fine. By fine as normal, Ammon:0, Nitrates, 0, Nitrites >5ppm, pH 6.8. can anyone enlighten me?
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