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Found 17 results

  1. I seem to recall someone on here being a teacher with a good Aqua phonics set up at their school. I am chasing this person for a bit of guidance for another school set up.
  2. Hi everyone, Trying to get my head around the effects of PH GH & KH and rift lake mixes. Ok so I understand there is heaps of links throughout the Internet for rift lake recipes but all of them are different. Some more complex then other etc etc. As a noob I have taken in some info, disregarded other info and have done my own test. I am posting this in order to learn and obtain advice from those more knowledgeable and perhaps help other novice aquarium enthusiast feel more comfortable and prepared to do the same. Why have I decided to make my own mix? Mainly cost, although not mixing or adding anything previously is cheaper again. So hence the second reason is due to the water conditions in my tank not being optimal or to a standard I feel my Malawi Cichlids deserve. While on the topic the current readings for Ph and hardness is my tank are as follows; PH 8.2 GH 120mg/l KH 70mg/l What products did I choose for my initial tests? I have a Bag of pool salt (sunray brand) that I purchased from Bunnings at $7. 1kg of bi-carb soda (McKenzies brand) $3 1kg of Epsom Salts (no brand visible) $8 I am unsure of the actual cost of the bicarb and the Epsom salts as I had my partner do the shopping and I lost the receipt, but they were around that amount. I choose to only utilise these three products because as a novice, I wanted to keep this as simple process as possible. Over time I may change the ingredients whether it be due to my own knowledge increasing or a recommendation from a trusted source. I wont change the recipe if someone simply says "pool salt is bad you shouldn't use it" or "my brothers girlfriends uncles first year apprentice said..." Ok so first of all I started by collecting a 20L sample of my tap water, I aerated it with a mild dose of prime and let it sit for over 24 hours. The results of testing my tap water are as follows; Ph 7.6 - 7.7 GH 50-60mg/l KH 50mg/l What do I know about these figures? I know that the PH, while high for tap water, is still a bit low for my tank inhabitants. I know that the water is relatively soft. What don't I know about these figures? I don't yet know how concerned I should be, if at all. I don't yet know the correct conversion for the GH and KH scale to get these amount in degrees. I don't know how accurate they are as I am only using one master test kit to obtain them and its accuracy is unknown. Anything else I don't know is simply cause I have not learnt or been told as yet. Beyond that there is probably thousands of over things I do not know about tap water that is completely irrelevant. Ok moving on I have now created a second 20L batch of tap water and primed and aerated it for just 12 hours, but I also added the following; 1 tsp Bicarb 3 tsp Epsom salts 1 tsp pool salt I tested this mixture this morning and I now have the following figures; PH 8.6 GH 340mg/l KH 140mg/l What do I know about these figures? I know that they have increased dramatically from my plain water sample. I know that the water would now be considered hard. I also believe the PH is at the higher end of the scale that my Malawi cichlids would prefer. What don't I know about these figures? I don't know if they are too high. I don't know if there is any concerns with slowly altering my tank water with water changes utilising this mix. I still don't know all the other thousand of things about tap water the may or may not be relevant. So that's is where I am at as of this morning. I look forward to any opinions or advice in regards to what I am doing that may or may not be correct. I will update this thread with my mixture results as we go along. I am always willing to learn, but unfortunately I am a physical learner so all the reading in the world generally doesn't help me. Hence I have to do it to really understand it. So I do apologise if this is frustrating for some who feel that all the information I need is floating out there in the online world. I do have another 20l batch currently awaiting testing but this time I have reduced the Epsom salt teaspoons from three to two. Why did I do this? I have no idea, curious I guess? Or perhaps I am just being tight and trying to minimise the materials used to stretch out or simplify the mixture... I don't know, but it's done and I will report the results and appreciate any discussion regarding the two mixes. Anyway I have a busy day today (working on 4wd) but thank all in advance for their input and I hope this helps me and others in the future. I already feel more comfortable with what I am doing simply by making this very post alone, so fingers crossed it works as intended. Cheers Grimace
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  4. What makes a good fish? Why do some fish do better in shows? How are fish judged? The answers to all of these questions and more will be explained to any person attending the QFAS Judging School starting on the 5th March 2014. Anyone who would like to learn how to judge fish or just wants to find out what makes a good fish a good fish should attend this school. Cost is $25.00. The school will be held over 5 Wednesday nights starting on the 5th March 2014. And will finish with all attendees being Judges for the QFAS Market Show on the 5th / 6th April. If you want to attend contact me either by p.m. or email graemeday@optusnet.com.au. Graeme
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  6. Back in the day,lol, by accident I found the local forms of nudibranch of the aeolidina suborder or aeolid nudibranch carried out the eradication of these pesky anemones faster then anything! I would never usually tell any one to use them due to the fact that they starve to death once there are none to feed on any more. I had a conversation with some on the net over seas that say they are becoming trendy for this and they use them and were trying to work out how to keep the alive once they had done their job! There are only two simple ways. Have a tank with aiptasia that you feed for their numbers to keep at a high level. Or regular get shoreline rock pool anemones to feed them to keep them going. Personally I don’t collect them any more, not for years as it is so easy to never have these anemones with precautions and a couple of peps just in case. This is one of our pics from marine life species threads found near bris on the very common variations of the aeolid types. These are one of the better types of shore anemones that are found in the millions usually to feed them while out of the display tank.
  7. Hi all, I set up a 4 x 2 x 2 tank at my school last year. Everything's been going quite well, but the last few months I've some serious aggression issues. Three of the Pindani I had in there were killed by a very aggressive Albino Eureka red male. I removed him from the tank and things settled. Now unfortunately, the female Eureka Reds I have in the tank are all showing severe fin damage. They show aggression to each other as well as being targeted by the last albino female I have the tank (soon to be relocated). I only have three Eureka females and one pure Eureka male. Other tank mates are 6x Black Acei (from butch on these forums. One is ready to spawn.) 4 x Electric Yellows (I think 2 male and 2 female but I haven't sexed them yet) 2 x remaining Pindani from a batch of 5 1 x Chinese algae eater (recently bought to control alage on back of tank) So, I'm wondering if I need to throw a few more females of the Eureka's in the tank to spread the aggression. Currently one is in my little iso cube so she can rest and recover. That only leaves two in the main tank and today I noticed serious tail fin damage to both of them. If I throw in another three females, will that help? The other option is to scrap the Eureka's completely and go for something else in the tank. I stocked it based roughly off a guide from the Cichlid Forum site (American site, really helpful. I discovered it before I found out about this place). I could swap the Red's for another colony of Aulanocaras. Apparently the Eurekas are fairly aggressive for their type. I know Butch is selling breeding colonies of other Aulanocaras and I could happily purchase from him again, since his fish are quality. The only problem with that option is I don't have anywhere to put the Eureka's if I do that. No room in my home tanks and none in either my brothers or brother in laws tanks. Any advice welcome. Cheers
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  10. Hi gang I am trying to find normal, regular, plain vanillia, old school, garden variety, retro, honey Gouramis for my daughters tank. I haven't keep them myself for years and my wife saw some in a book and asked if they were available. I thought it should be an easy task, but everywhere I have been seems to only have some sort of colour morph described as a "Golden" Honey gourami, which doesn't appear to be the same as I remember them. Moreover they all appear to be males . Anyone know where we might get some or have any for sale ? Here is what I remember them looking like. Thanks, Phil Also anyone know where I could get Licorice or chocolate Gouramis ??
  11. The pristine creek tank. There's gravel in it now, but not in this pic. Going to have all sorts of (friendly) small community natives. Rainbows, blue eyes (I hope) and some gudgeons and a tandan or 2. And here's the Humpybong Creek inspired tank! I love this one. Going to house 2 tilapia, 2 goldfish, 30 gambusia and some swords and mollies. Yes, that IS a shopping trolley- sourced from the shopping trolley repair yard in Darra- not stolen!
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  13. i have bought a 3 teir 3 ft tank setup. they each have a sump on the side and i have never used one before. ive got dence white foam and also black foam plus some noodles and im getting some bio balls is this all i need. i assume this doesnt pick up the fish poo, so ill have to suck that up every so often. what else do i do???
  14. 2 pics of the aquaponics system. All in place, but plumbing not finished yet. There's 3 1250L fish tanks, with viewing windows, and 6 540L plant grow beds. 2 of these will be filled with 19mm drainage gravel, 2 with the fancy (and expensive) expanded clay balls and 2 will be floating raft style.
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