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Sparhawkleo

Water change Brisbane town water

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Hey not sure if i just got the worst luck last night but i did a water change in 2 of my tanks last night and now have lost 95% of the fish in there

i havent got to testing the water but just jumping on here to see if this has happened to anyone else i have had african cichlids for over 4yrs now and not lost any during a water change

i have been using Supa chlor and always use a tiny bit more than necessary. Anyway the tanks smell of chlorine not strong but there is a whiff of it

Not happy jan after having to leave work to find hundreds of dollars of display fish and peacocks and electric yellows breeding colonies dead :(

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Whats the best way to restart my tank just drain and clean teh canister and fill up again and start over :( i still have about 13 fish left to go back into the tank when it gets going they are in a 2foot by 1 foot atm

even lost all my awesome fish just bought from [MENTION=625]butch50[/MENTION] :(

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Use tank water, or use a holding tank for your town water and give it 24 hrs with decolorisation and airstone. Never trust your tap water as someone who was a plumber the sh!te in our mains is unbelievable

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Whats the best way to restart my tank just drain and clean teh canister and fill up again and start over :( i still have about 13 fish left to go back into the tank when it gets going they are in a 2foot by 1 foot atm

even lost all my awesome fish just bought from [MENTION=625]butch50[/MENTION] :(

Dose again with your decolorisation and if you can get some quick start or the like and give it a day or to the add fish back

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I'm out at Ipswich and have noticed that the tap water has been fluctuating quiet a lot of late sometime my ph direct from tap will be 8.2 other time as low as 7.0 I've also been double dosing prime to be on the safe side as I've noticed it seems to taste a little different.

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I did a water change for my tanks yesterday but I've been using double dosage and around 4 hours of aeration before adding the water to the tank. I've also noticed that there is still an ammonia reading on the water being used for change. Sad to hear of your loss.

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Test results would help a lot, but definitely add in some more dechlorinator.

Would also help just to run through your general water change routine, may be able to optimize it to prevent another such tragedy.

How did fish look before they died? What was their behaviour?

May have been temperature shock or pH shock or chlorine poisoning or even an ammonia spike (new water raises pH and with it ammonia toxicity), heck we have even seen people with 4ppm nitrite readings straight from the tap.

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So nitrate was a bit high not sure how high my API test kits got ruined leaked so can't test ammonia or nitrite and have no card pH looks ok by the color and yeah mid red on nitrate so that was high need to buy a new test kit :-(

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I had a similar problem years ago and was using a dechlorinator at about 1 1/2 the recommended rate and lost a lot of fish. I ended up getting a in line carbon filter which is still going strong, never had the problem again but they cost a bit but so do the fishes so it's about what's more important, the money or the fish. They make water changes soo easy, highly recommended them. AOA carbon filters - Age of Aquariums - De-Chlorinator 12"

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I had a similar problem years ago and was using a dechlorinator at about 1 1/2 the recommended rate and lost a lot of fish. I ended up getting a in line carbon filter which is still going strong, never had the problem again but they cost a bit but so do the fishes so it's about what's more important, the money or the fish. They make water changes soo easy, highly recommended them. AOA carbon filters - Age of Aquariums - De-Chlorinator 12"

I second the use of a carbon filter. I use it to remove chlorine and chloramines as well as toxins and let the water continually drip to auto water change. I have a waist high DIY filter that I modified from a discarded household water softening unit but even the small domestic inline house filters do a reasonable job.

Constant water change/gradual water changes are the best option to counter erratic water supply problems.

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I should point out some brands require canister changes every water change and at $30 a pop it wasn't going to work out cheap for me. The one i got is supposed to last for 150,000 litres and at the 300/400 l/week i average it worked out to at least 7 years and is currently 6 years old according to the invoice and still going strong. The only minor problem is do not have the water pressure going flat out or else some nasties can get through, water not staying in the filter long enough. 1/2 - 3/4 water pressure no problems. I probably wouldn't still be doing fishes if i still did it the hard way.post-8249-1471163201527_thumb.jpg

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Carbon doesn't fail suddenly. You have plenty of warning. You could do a monthly chlorine test to see if some chlorine is starting to get through and change carbon when it does. I use swim pool tablets for this - just the tablet, there is no need for the kit/actual level of chlorine. I personally prefer a filter that allows me to self pack my own carbon as I use medical grade (high activation) carbon. The bigger the filter, the faster you can push water through but as previously mentioned, I slow drip in anyway. I have a mechanical pre-filter in front of the carbon to maximise carbon life since the prefilter was so cheap. It's a ceramic core that filters down to 1 micron so even white spot couldn't get through (in theory).

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Sorry about your loss mate

as you never seemed to lose much

I think like donny with an amonia spike

Get a new A.P.I test kit so you can test

after you change another 1/3

Test about an hour after and see what readings you get

Dont chuck it in mate

Good Luck

Cheers Butch

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qyze8y3e.jpg

Got the new test kit thanks to @thetechden :-) half the price of a LFS I went into lol

Now these level should be ok to float the fish and put them in

I have only cleaned the canister in the water drained and kept it running with some food thrown in now and again over the week to keep the bacteria fed with ammonia

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Thanks Aquaholic99 for the mention of the DPD tabs. I used some to check the old carbon filter and it appears it's letting some chlorine through, only just turns pink. Lucky i got a new replacement handy which does not turn pink, proves it works. I was wondering if it was used up when i noticed the fish being a bit quiet after a water change, they are normally pretty stoked with fresh water. So thanks again Aquaholic99 that was good advice.

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