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Jani

Bulkhead's part question

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if u dont mind cleaning it and way it looks a pond sponge has screw fitting, may need adapator but will go on and stop large particles and fish. (used one on a sumped system with shrimp, as baby's would get through the seive and flyscreen inlet protectors).

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I have seen people with a piece of flyscreen over the inlet with a rubber band around the neck of the bulkhead to hold it in place.

Thank you!

Looks good, but maybe it's clogging very often, isn't it?

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if u dont mind cleaning it and way it looks a pond sponge has screw fitting, may need adapator but will go on and stop large particles and fish. (used one on a sumped system with shrimp, as baby's would get through the seive and flyscreen inlet protectors).

Thanks cod!

I wouldn't mind it, not a big deal I think.

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I place the drain hole a little lower down (may be too late for you to do this) and use a 90 degree elbow to make a vertical standpipe from PVC pipe. The stand pipe has small holes drilled around the top perimeter and fish are easily able to swim off if they swim too near. Having a vertical standpipe allows you to dictate the water level precisely and you won't lose much water when the power is off. I keep the standpipe top open as this is the emergency overflow if the side holes were ever to get clogged. My drains increase in diameter so nothing can get stuck. I prefer not to use bulkhead fittings, I just use PVC threaded joins and a rubber gasket to seal. PVC pipe fittings being much smaller and cheaper.

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I place the drain hole a little lower down (may be too late for you to do this) and use a 90 degree elbow to make a vertical standpipe from PVC pipe. The stand pipe has small holes drilled around the top perimeter and fish are easily able to swim off if they swim too near. Having a vertical standpipe allows you to dictate the water level precisely and you won't lose much water when the power is off. I keep the standpipe top open as this is the emergency overflow if the side holes were ever to get clogged. My drains increase in diameter so nothing can get stuck. I prefer not to use bulkhead fittings, I just use PVC threaded joins and a rubber gasket to seal. PVC pipe fittings being much smaller and cheaper.

Thank you!

Why I didn't ask before... yes, it is too late, but next time because I will built a couple of other tanks as well. :D

But maybe I can use a shorter stand pipe or just an elbow and do a similar drain system like yours.

In this case you have a very precise water level, which is constantly stable, haven't you? Do you use water level sensor/controller?

Do you use silicon between the glass and gasket, just for sure?

Cheers,

Jani

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Yes you can have very precise water levels this way. If you want to adjust a little, you can push or pull the PVC pipe up and down about 1cm. You can also slide a 6cm long silicon hose up and down the inside very easily (or re-cut another PVC pipe).

I don't use silicon as it is messy and takes too long to dry. I use the same rubber that the expensive bulkheads use. You only need finger tight when screwing down.

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Yes you can have very precise water levels this way. If you want to adjust a little, you can push or pull the PVC pipe up and down about 1cm. You can also slide a 6cm long silicon hose up and down the inside very easily (or re-cut another PVC pipe).

I don't use silicon as it is messy and takes too long to dry. I use the same rubber that the expensive bulkheads use. You only need finger tight when screwing down.

I think, I will try it. It isn't problem, if I have a couple of options and I will see which will be better for my system.

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Where do you get the rubber gaskets from to do the PVC threaded bulkhead option?

You can buy them (just measure the inside diameter) from any irrigation store but they are also very easy to make from neoprene or a rubber inner tube with a hole saw. I made a hole saw from an old baked bean can and rivets.

On my last bulk order (450 gaskets) several years ago, my irrigation shop ordered them in for about 28 cents each which is a little expensive but convenient if you are short on time.

The gaskets only need to be hand tightened, even bottom drains on 90cm deep tanks.

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this is awesome information!

So, in terms of using overflows at the water level of the tank, is there any NEGATIVES in using this PVC method to using bulkheads (considering all sizes from 20mm up to 50mm in size).

Obviously, they probably function the same: water goes through them. You would still need to drill a hole the right size. And the majority of the PVC parts on either side of the bulkhead are going to be the same.... And the PVC parts are cheaper (and you need to order the gaskets separately)

BUT

Do they tend to leak more ? (surface area of pressure is smaller)

Are they more likely to break the tank ? (due to smaller surface area compared the larger surface area of with the proper bulkheads)

anything i haven't thought of?

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We are talking about open ended drainage so almost no pressure is involved, especially at the water surface level. Some people silicon a short length of PVC pipe through the glass instead of using any fittings at all.

I wouldn't drill any drain holes at surface level though, I would place hole below the water level and use an elbow with vertical standpipe so you can precisely control the water level you want.

This applies especially for power outages. Especially if you have multiple tanks on one sump.

The main motivator for me is cost. If you have one hundred tanks then even a $3 difference means saving $300 (and I have a lot more tanks than a hundred). Also those big black tank outlets are pretty ugly, thread length needs to be trimmed down to size and they still require additional pre-filters. I do use tank outlets occasionally but only on deep tanks ( 2m + ).

PVC pipe and fittings can also be stained almost any colour you want including black.

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