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ado_84

fish room upgrade - build

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thought id share a few pic of my new fish room build.

friday befor xmas the slab was poured.

thread stared here. ...http://www.qldaf.com/forums/ado_84-breeder-registry-collingwood-park-african-cichlids-frontosa-catfish-162/my-garage-fish-haven-91613/

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week or so later

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tanks for 2/3 of the first rack.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]59853[/ATTACH

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Edited by ado_84

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i'm lining the shed with 50mm foam. i have siliconed the sheets in as i'm trying to have the shed as air tight as possible.

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Edited by ado_84

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If you have larger fiddly gaps, use "space invader" foam.

Selleys Liquid Nails is a good glue to join polystyrene sheets as it gets tacky much faster.

Are you using a hot wire to cut sheets or just a serrated knife?

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The plan is for around 20000l i think i worked out it will hold about 120 tank but that may reduce and ill probably use all larger tanks and divide them. i keep mainly african cichild.

I had though of using a hot wire but ended up using a knife. so far ive just used 4 tubes of no more gaps and about 6 tube of clear silicon. luckly there arn't and larger gaps. i will insulate under the bottom rail once the floor is painted. hopefully i'll be about to start on the first rack in about a week.

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Wow, that looks identical to my old shed!.

Just a couple of tips for you,

In winter the cheapest / most effective heating solution I came up with was to run a reverse cycle air con 24/7.

Dont worry bout the power bill, if you keep productive the breeders will supply you with ongoing fry, eggs hatch quicker, and fry grow out rates are obviously much quicker too, everything is sped up with warmer temps.

But any exposed metal inside shed will reduce temp so make sure you cover ALL metal surfaces inside.

You must seal EVERY gap, otherwise your temp will drop too much, especially out that way.

It was a crapload of work but I used 12mm ply over the top of that polystyrene to seal all gaps and also made hanging lights and plumbing fixtures, etc easier

I cant stress enough how important it is to fully seal the shed, just one little draft is a killer.

Next time I would use a cold room style building.

I also found the cold concrete a problem in winter and ended up covering concrete with some cheap lino.

Also keep a sheet of polystyrene and make a cut out to fit for window to keep cold out.

I hope you are lining the inside of roof too? and watch the ants and other vermin - they eat coolite

Allow enough room in shed for water change storage, then water temp is the same, I used continuous drip method 24/7.

Maybe run some power and water to other end of shed too, with an elcb.

I had 3 drains in the centre of slab, it was so handy when siphoning tanks out, but these were positioned before slab was poured, perhaps its not too late to core drill near walls and install drains that way?

I also had a bathtub in the slab , nice and low so all the tanks could drain back to it - that was my sump!

Hahaaaaa the concreter thought I was nuts!!!

Edited by borntobreed

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I found some old pics that may help ....

ahhhhhh the memories....... might shed a widdle tear here in a minute :baby:.... holy crap, where did i ever get that sort of energy hahhaaaa

P.S Sorry didnt mean to hijack, i was bored :noidea:

I will go away now

000_0006-4.jpg

000_0005-3.jpg

IMG_1040.jpg

And inside the good ol shipping container

IMG_1049.jpg

And this is how much plants love nitrates and phosphates ! :hug:

thumbnailCARN0ZTI.jpg

Edited by borntobreed

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Wow, that looks identical to my old shed!.

Just a couple of tips for you,

In winter the cheapest / most effective heating solution I came up with was to run a reverse cycle air con 24/7.

Dont worry bout the power bill, if you keep productive the breeders will supply you with ongoing fry, eggs hatch quicker, and fry grow out rates are obviously much quicker too, everything is sped up with warmer temps.

But any exposed metal inside shed will reduce temp so make sure you cover ALL metal surfaces inside.

You must seal EVERY gap, otherwise your temp will drop too much, especially out that way.

It was a crapload of work but I used 12mm ply over the top of that polystyrene to seal all gaps and also made hanging lights and plumbing fixtures, etc easier

I cant stress enough how important it is to fully seal the shed, just one little draft is a killer.

Next time I would use a cold room style building.

I also found the cold concrete a problem in winter and ended up covering concrete with some cheap lino.

Also keep a sheet of polystyrene and make a cut out to fit for window to keep cold out.

I hope you are lining the inside of roof too? and watch the ants and other vermin - they eat coolite

Allow enough room in shed for water change storage, then water temp is the same, I used continuous drip method 24/7.

Maybe run some power and water to other end of shed too, with an elcb.

I had 3 drains in the centre of slab, it was so handy when siphoning tanks out, but these were positioned before slab was poured, perhaps its not too late to core drill near walls and install drains that way?

I also had a bathtub in the slab , nice and low so all the tanks could drain back to it - that was my sump!

Hahaaaaa the concreter thought I was nuts!!!

If you are after ideas to save time, then this is a good one... and don't worry about tradies thinking you are nuts.

DSCF6556_zps4c36d648.jpg

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Wow, that looks identical to my old shed!.

Just a couple of tips for you,

In winter the cheapest / most effective heating solution I came up with was to run a reverse cycle air con 24/7.

Dont worry bout the power bill, if you keep productive the breeders will supply you with ongoing fry, eggs hatch quicker, and fry grow out rates are obviously much quicker too, everything is sped up with warmer temps.

But any exposed metal inside shed will reduce temp so make sure you cover ALL metal surfaces inside.

You must seal EVERY gap, otherwise your temp will drop too much, especially out that way.

It was a crapload of work but I used 12mm ply over the top of that polystyrene to seal all gaps and also made hanging lights and plumbing fixtures, etc easier

I cant stress enough how important it is to fully seal the shed, just one little draft is a killer.

Next time I would use a cold room style building.

I also found the cold concrete a problem in winter and ended up covering concrete with some cheap lino.

Also keep a sheet of polystyrene and make a cut out to fit for window to keep cold out.

I hope you are lining the inside of roof too? and watch the ants and other vermin - they eat coolite

Allow enough room in shed for water change storage, then water temp is the same, I used continuous drip method 24/7.

Maybe run some power and water to other end of shed too, with an elcb.

I had 3 drains in the centre of slab, it was so handy when siphoning tanks out, but these were positioned before slab was poured, perhaps its not too late to core drill near walls and install drains that way?

I also had a bathtub in the slab , nice and low so all the tanks could drain back to it - that was my sump!

Hahaaaaa the concreter thought I was nuts!!!

thanks for the input mate.

im' pritty much onto all of these.. currentlly siliconing up all gaps.. time consuming job..(8 tubes so far) the roller dolle will be the hard part. i don't have a window as didn't want light getting in.

i will paint the floor but won't seal it. once the racks and mats are in i will hardly see the floor.

so next on the list is to paint the floor, finish the insulation, get steel and build the tank racks and the rack for the header tank. build the main sump (joining 2 of 6x2x2s), have the a/c and power installed. install a laundry sink.

Edited by ado_84

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I'm going to connect the two 6x2's to make a large 6x4 sump.. was going to join these 500mm from the base via 4x 40mm pipes..

anyone know how many LPH these will handle as their will be little pressure to push the water thru?

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post-7490-14711633003344_thumb.jpg

power goes in on monday, rack will soon follow..

How many tanks and how many litres total?

worked it out the other day should be

23 4*2*2

46 4*2*18h

and for display 6 8*2*2

or the equivalent,

post-7490-14711633003175_thumb.jpg

Edited by ado_84

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so the power when in on monday. took three of us 12.5 hours.. center light are on timers rest are on a switch. 10 double GPOs. electrician will come back to install a socket so i can plug a generator in to power the lot in a black out.

post-7490-14711633030853_thumb.jpg

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so in the last week the a/c has gone in, i have run the air lines and the main sump return line, i have nearly got the sink in, and the water is connected. the first rack is well under way.

floor plan, sump in the centre.

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sink, now fully installed

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first rack

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