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I have a 8X2X2.5ft tank currently with 2x fx6 filters. I am looking at a possible near future swap to marine.i would like know can I run a chiller and skimmer inline with my filters or should I remove the fx6's?

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Best bet would be remove the canister and make up a 4x2 sump so you can run everything off pumps downstairs. Looks meaty and will be easier to plumb, plus more efficient

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The prob with canisters with marines is blockages, bio and fine silt will make them semi useless, that being said if you set them up right, alterations internally, then achieve perfectly cleaned water running to them, then they are very cool for all long term aerobic and anaerobic functions. With what many call a sump it can be a plastic tub if you want and run your canisters from that and make up a couple of plastic tubes we like punch up that description by calling them reactors, lol, add in a cheap basic none pin or needle wheel pumped venturi skimmer in that tub and get a gyre or two for incredibly important in tank currents and you could achieve some cool results.

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the tank is already drilled and plumbed with the inlet and outlet for the filters sitting at least150mm above the bottom of the tank, would I be able to connect a sump to these? possibly two small ones?would I have to change substrate as I have around 160kg of coral sand atm..

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The holes for outlet volume dictates what you can do with a sump, return water does not need drilled holes!! That can be done via hose from sump to a bent length of conduit with hose onto one end and the other hooked over the top of tank for return waters, do not use a hole in glass for returns, its pure waste of extra exit water potential. If done it right, the waters that go into tank should exit at that same rate and if you pour in some water to the tank or you put your arm in quickly, you want that water mass to get out, so exiting water is paramount, return water is best done in others ways, not by holes in glass!! Do you mean holes in glass are at the base and pipes go up 150 mill or the holes are 150 mill up from floor? Do you mean those grey pipes are in glass holes?

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so base of the tank is drilled and those pipes run directly down to my filters. so one filter on each side of the tank with about half a meter of hose, filters circulate 70000l ph at this current stage

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That’s heaps!!!

The external bio functions are based on the word trickle, being trickle filter.

Just as an example, my systems waters enter and exit at roughly 2500 to 2700 litres per hour for two small 2 foot tanks and bio filter content that is split into two, on edry one wet but both enter one sump, so my water content would be around 400 litres all up.

My external bio filtering is much larger then my tanks combined.

Then the in tank current with help via another power head all up turns over my top tank of near 80 litres, at just over 3000 litres per hour.

The bottom tank is at 1500 litres per hour!

You just have the return hose for the tank run into a bucket for 15 seconds and in tank the same and calculate.

So in tank current “massive” at 15, 25 per hour or more times your tanks water content and returning waters not so massive at 4 to 10 times your tanks water content.

Just remember that if your exits or returns holes that are plumbed are in the water well below the exiting waters height, if something goes wrong like a leaking seal, live rock damage if it falls over, plastic reacting or silicon borer and your water may siphon down to that height flooding the room the tank is in.

Fails safes mate, by that I man everything that can go wrong, is accounted for!

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I have a 8X2X2.5ft tank currently with 2x fx6 filters. I am looking at a possible near future swap to marine.i would like know can I run a chiller and skimmer inline with my filters or should I remove the fx6's?

I would be removing the fx6's in favor of a silent overflow and a sump. Run a skimmer in the sump and your chiller off a return pump. You don't want bio balls or a trickle filter, the biological filtration is handled by live rock in the display. The existing holes could be used for wave making. There are lots of options. I would head over to MASA and check out some of the tank jounals for tanks of the same size.

Reefing The Australian Way Forums • View forum - Tank Journals

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Cheers, if im looking at re-plumbing, I may be better off getting a new tank made up with marine plumbing, no big drama just lifting the current tank is a *****. was really hoping there is a quicker alternative to a sump something like a purpose built skimmer heater-chiller filter unit.(not invented yet) was looking at the fluval g6 units but no matter what they say it just seems canisters are units for fresh not salt.

G Series | Aquarium Filtration | Fluval

the positioning of the base holes I could run pipes to create a weir system just it would be a lot of in-tank plumbing...

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Not invented yet, lol, make one your self, its very easy!

You could make you exits and returns safer and build up reef around the exits that can be made out of glass and even attach the rock to the rises, its up to you, id did a ten footer for mate like that many years back cause the tank he bought was drilled in the middle of the floor, worked a treat with two bomies.

Now canisters can be altered to suit salt water quite easily, but that’s up to you.

My oldest wet section of nearly 20 years is based on a vertical under gravel filter heavily pre filtered of which should be done with a canister as well.

A canister which works on wet sections functions a part from other media added in but should mainly consist of wet bio media being in water always, like an under gravel or live rock is what you should aim for canisters to achieve and if done right far better then live rock can ever achieve long term.

With saltwater biological functions, more so then fresh water that is based on ammonium unlike the more deadly saltwater ammonia.

To achieve on going stability a wet sections media has to remain in water, at that same spot and not interfered with to get the most out of it and achieve less PH fluctuations by ammonia, though the main cause of PH going haywire is CO2 that is a part of why the ammonia was manufactured in the first place.

You see live rock or base rock will become permeated with fine particles of cal from skeletal remains in fish foods and plankton shell material.

If you use them, just get it all ready to just fill with granulated calcium of some kind nothing else in there, I used shell grit and coral rubble.

Looking into the canister and hopefully it has a floor with gap under it for water to go under media then up through it of the other way and down through it.

So if you make up any wet section any where like the canister you cut up two sections of thing cardboard that will sit in your canister dividing it in to thirds sort of, smaller thirds each side.

You fill all those thirds equally as you go up, the middle with say 5 to 8 mill media sized calcium particles and the sides with much smaller particles.

The whole area is full, now pull out the cardboards and you have an aerobic area that takes it all to nitrate through the middle and anaerobic at each side will separate the nitrate atoms to pure nitrogen and that will account for the entire nitrite cycle.

From ammonia, to nitrite to nitrate to harmless nitrogen, the same as what they try to achieve with live rock that sadly fails in the coming years as it becomes full of rubbish so that nitrate reduction is getting weaker and hydrogen sulphide is becoming more annoying, it doesn’t show in any of the common tests so most reefers have no idea its even happening, just nitrate needs to be accounted for in other ways now and phos is increasing.

That’s how my old wet section retains my tubs with absolutely no ammonia, nitrite or nitrate possible in a test and it’s the rubbish bio filter compared to my other one running my displays.

“Oh and don’t forget that all life has phos and nitrogen in its cells and all that was alive is fed to your tank mates, so during and after the nitrite cycle there is heaps of inorganics hanging around that you have to make sure you get rid of, get them used up or get them converted! Nitrogen abundant is bad enough but the two components once separated that make up phos being orthophosphate and phosphorus are not good to have hanging around and only algae or liquid or semi solid carbon dosing will account for this easily.”

Don’t get me wrong there is heaps of fermentation going on in your tank naturally, but not enough to account to for abundant phos and nitrate.

Nothing, absolutely nothing!!! Accomplishes the nitrogen cycle like a cal under gravel, but you see they get full of rubbish just like a canister unless you base it on a reverse flow-heavily pre filtered, then the under gravel kicks live rock out for bio functions and it becomes useless except for swim throughs and spots to sit coral on, lol !!!!

Another to just get you up to speed on phos, you may have herd the rubbish on live rock storing phos then the need to cook it, it doesn’t!!

It is the affects of aging diverse anaerobes to increasing obligate anaerobes breaking down age old and new calcium phosphate and not just calcium carb that is part of the corals skeletal make up, the acidic environment separates the two cal/phos and you are left with phos leaching out.

There is a lot involved, but really it is all quite simple.

Edited by liquidg

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Cheers, if im looking at re-plumbing, I may be better off getting a new tank made up with marine plumbing, no big drama just lifting the current tank is a *****. was really hoping there is a quicker alternative to a sump something like a purpose built skimmer heater-chiller filter unit.(not invented yet) was looking at the fluval g6 units but no matter what they say it just seems canisters are units for fresh not salt.

G Series | Aquarium Filtration | Fluval

the positioning of the base holes I could run pipes to create a weir system just it would be a lot of in-tank plumbing...

I could install something like this Age of Aquariums - EcoSystem Pro Acrylic Sump 3612A on one end and then retain one fx6 with a chiller plumbed into it, remove mechanical filtration and just run racks of coarse crushed coral?

I don't think you need to go to all the trouble of building a new tank, it's not to hard to drill a tank and build a weir in situ. A weir is only three pains of glass. You could have a weir made out of perspex and install it in the existing tank. Google 'silent overflow' it's something you'll eventually want.

If your thinking of a skimmer and chiller unit I guess your thinking of a full reef and if thats the case the G series and fx6's just wont cut it. I don't thing you can get enough flow out of an fx6 to successfully run a chiller and you will still be left with a way to run a skimmer. I don't think canisters are suited to marines.

I'm not sure you want to be playing with the mirical mud just yet and you will have enough bio filtration with a decent amount of live rock in the display tank although a refugium on reverse lighting can be good to stabilise pH fluctuations.

Before you go any farther I would go over to MASA and check out the large tanks in the tank journal section to get a good idea of what you want and what equipment you'll need. And you going to need a lot of it and a regular supply of salt water.

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Any rules around drawing ocean water?

I will measure up the space under my current tank and start thinking of a sump setup. I will need a very large chiller! I only saw that miracle mud thing after I posted, thought they were just standard sumps!

Thanks for the input! have a lot to put together now a fair bit to keep me going!

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Hhmmm, if you want to do away with the holes you have, that’s cool, it’s very easy to do. Assorted hole saws to 50mill are only $12 delivered to your home and if kept cool these cheapies will last for years. These in the pic are great, but some will say they are not, but some will say many things and will let you down, good luck with it all.

hole-saws-_zpservjeauq.jpg

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Any rules around drawing ocean water?

I will measure up the space under my current tank and start thinking of a sump setup. I will need a very large chiller! I only saw that miracle mud thing after I posted, thought they were just standard sumps!

Thanks for the input! have a lot to put together now a fair bit to keep me going!

I'm not aware of any rules regarding the collection of salt water. You have a big tank and will probably want to get a large storage container or small plastic rainwater tank and have it delivered as I did. It makes life so much easier at around $100 for a $1000L.

Chillers are a heat transfer pump and cant go in the cabinet, a chiller in the cabinet will transfer the heat back to the water. The chiller can go alongside the tank but its not ideal as they are noisy and will heat up the room. The best place for them is outside or under the floor.

Canister filters are great for running media such as carbon or a phophate sponge but the fx6's may be a bit big for that. I used to use a small canister with wool every six months to catch detritus that I would blow of from the rocks with a turkey baster.

The hole saws that liquidg showed are good, probably an ebay purchase, keep them wet, go slow, use a wooden template and cut though from both sides. Your existing holes can be covered up or used to create flow, gyre flow. If you do keep them you will need to swap out the strainers for plastic ones.

Again, your going to need a lot of equipment and pick up some new husbandry skills. Go to Reefing The Australian Way Forums • Index page and get a good idea of what you want to achieve before you start.

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This is a generic sump and weir plan, you dont necessarily need a deep sand bed (DSB) but yu may want a refugium.

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