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grigby

Advice Please on Filtration Experiment

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Can I utilise a pond canister filter like a 'Pondmate PM2800EF' inline between my sump pump return and tank return tubing as an extra means of filtration? They are very efficient & low cost ($139 /10,000 litre capacity) and seem like a great idea: but nothing is ever that simple.

What size pump would be a minimum in a 1300 litre tank housing Frontosa & Tropheus to run such a pump?

Was going to buy & try, but thought someone may have already done this exercise.

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I used to do it. Problem is they are big, ugly and messy to clean. So you really want it to be in the fish shed rather than indoors.

To make it economical you want an energy efficient pump which is an investment. A laguna 7600 would be my pick if it was a stand alone filtration and thats with a big prefilter on it.

Seems over kill adding it to a sump though. Better to add better biomedia to sump and wavemakers to display. Buuut adding it to sump, maybe a 5000lph pump?

As to putting inline on current setup.... will it effect head height too much?

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Thanks Donny. I have matrix & large black foam & used macropore (not impressed) under the drip tray at present. What is a better filter media to get the water crystal clear or is there an additive that I am missing: only have 13 mid sized Frontosa & 36 tropheus in 1300 litres. Is there something I can use to reduce the water change frequency or boost the biological capacity? Have reduced the food & PH is 8.

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You could put some dacron on top of the drip tray, i always run sumps like that and it reduces the need to clean the bio media as often and will help polish the water. It will need replacing at least weekly maybe more depending on feeding etc.

You could try some new macropore, it's alot more effective than used.

Marine pure spheres are the hot new filter media at the moment but I've always used scoria and matrix is fine as long as there's enough for the bioload.

How many times an hour does the water turnover? You may be able to slow it down a bit to provide more contact time with the media.

Cheers mick

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Really depends whats causing water to not be clear. Some fine white matting can help if its small particles, as can more flow in tank to keep debris suspended so it goes into sump and doesnt instead settle.

If its an off colour tint then chemical filtration is usually the go. Macropore is usually quite good, perhaps you needed more or different placement?

If its clouding then optimizing your biological filtration setup in sump can help. Also looking at how you clean the sump and how you top up evaporation or water changes can be key. Often people kill of good microbes with chlorine resulting in cloudy water column bacterial blooms.

Any chance of a picture of sump? Will get you more replies from people.

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Can I utilise a pond canister filter like a 'Pondmate PM2800EF' inline between my sump pump return and tank return tubing as an extra means of filtration? They are very efficient & low cost ($139 /10,000 litre capacity) and seem like a great idea: but nothing is ever that simple.

What size pump would be a minimum in a 1300 litre tank housing Frontosa & Tropheus to run such a pump?

Was going to buy & try, but thought someone may have already done this exercise.

What size is your tank? I often use an open 20L bucket (with a small powerhead buried under whatever filter material you prefer) dropped directly into the tank. Essentially a canister sized internal filter. Keep the bucket handle to make lifting out/filter maintenance easier. You can downsize or up-size the concept accordingly but not having to use pressure fittings and zero water head increases filtering efficiency and lowers cost.

On display tanks, I use painted ceramic flowerpots (with live plants in the pot).

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aquaholic99 thanks for the info, it is a display tank 8'x2.5x2.5. Forgive my ignorance please, but how do "painted ceramic flowerpots (with live plants in the pot)" work? Do you mean the pump is under the plant and the potting media acts a filter which feeds the plants?

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