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ORANGEMELLY

My 700 l severum and chocolate cichlid tank project

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Hey all.

I bought a 60 x 30 (tall) x 24 - 700L (180G) for $50 off gumtree some months back. The tank was pre-drilled in top right corner and has the 2 bulkheads still in place. The glass is 12mm. The tank had a small leak (pin***** size hole)and so began the laborious task of removing all the old silicone and resealing tank. Most of the silicone was removed with a razor blade attached to a stick as I could not reach the bottom. Any way tank is now resealed and back of tank painted black.

Here it is having first partial water test:post-14718-14711633995169_thumb.jpg....no, the tank is not bowed, camera has a fisheye lens.

Stand: Stand which came with tank was for the most part well built. But I was concerned that it was not going to be structurally strong enough to support the tank...after all tank+water+sand+driftwood would add up to significant weight. I was considering castors but have ditched that idea. I have reinforced each leg with structural pine - adding two extra supports on the corner legs and 1 on the ones in the middle...I am pretty stocked with my handy work as I am a female and not that familiar with using power tools...

Tank stand has now been painted in black gloss and just need to purchase some marine ply for the top...

stand is sitting on of cuts in this picture for painting purposes...post-14718-14711633995549_thumb.jpg.

Residents of tank will be: 1 chocolate cichlid, 4 severums (2 gold, 2 green) and some diamond tetras. I was contemplating corydoras or some other bottom feeders...(any ideas?)

I also have a albino oscar called "Honey" (4-5 inches) which I am unsure of if I will include in the mix if I do I would reduce the severums to just 2...(any thoughts?)...

All the cichlids are currently in a 4ft together and getting on fine...apart from the smallest sev which is bottom of pecking order...poor little dear)

Decor: Tank will have play sand substrate with one large piece of driftwood and river stones. I am planning on attaching anubias and java fern all over the driftwood. And will also attempt to place a couple of potted val's behind some rocks.

Filtration: Tank came with a sump as well and so that will be main source of filtration. I will also be adding a Aquaclear 500.

Will update as I go.

Iv'e not used a sump before and have little knowledge regarding the size return pump I will need. The holes in the tank are 1 inch wide. There are 2 of them with one sitting slightly higher than the other. I will construct a durso standpipe to get water to sump. From what I have read I think its 600G per hour that would be flowing out of tank based on how far water has to fall and size of holes...not sure though..if anyone knows please advise.

If anyone has any insight on my stocking options/filtration etc please respond.

Thanks guys.

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WHICH SEVERUMS DO I PUT IN TANK?

Hi guys, here is the latest question I am pondering:

I originally had just 1 gold juvenile severum but I wanted 2 for my 700l tank. And so I purchased another gold which the other one did not like and began to chase all over the tank.

And so I reasoned that as these fish are cichlids if I add a couple more severums it may disperse the aggression....number 1 will have more fish to worry about. I could not find any more gold and so I bought 2 green. One of the green ones has taken position of top severum and is an awesome dark green/blue colour while the other green is more pale. So it would seem I have 2 distinct strong characters (1 gold, 1 green) and 2 that are more docile (1 gold, 1 green). I do not know what sex the severums are but both green have substantial squiggles on face so I am thinking they could both be males. With the gold the more dominant is a darker orange/gold and seems to have a larger chest than the other gold which is smaller and significantly paler...(but this is also from being bottom of the rung I think)...I am not concerned if I end up with 1 green and 1 gold or if they pair up and breed...I will not be saving any of the babies...(I would prefer and am planning at a later date to breed the red sevs)

My question is: which pair do I put into the display tank? The 2 strong ones or the 2 which are more docile?

I am keeping all of them but as I have decided that I want my oscar in with the chocolate and the 2 severums as my oscar and choc get on really well. My oscar is now bigger than my choc at almost 5 inches and I am positive that he is a male as his dorsal and tail overlap...he is also really boisterous.....my choc is around 4-5 inches as well...I know they will both appreciate being in the 700l....but including the oscar means that I have to chose only 2 of the 4 severums to go in to the 700L as I do not want to overcrowd.

post-14718-147116340513_thumb.jpg

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NEXT QUESTION: CAN I ADD A SAND SIFTER - GEOPHAGUS?

Okay...180G (700L) tank..

POTENTIAL STOCKING LIST:

1 albino oscar - "Honey"

1 chocolate cichlid - "Six"

2 severums - 4 to choose from..2 gold, 2 green.

All the above are currently in a 75G...the oscar and choc are around the 5" mark at present and the sevs are all juveniles no more than 1-2 inches.

There are also 6 corydoras in the tank with them which up till now "Honey" has not tried to eat. (Do severums eat corys?)

There are also 12 fire tail gudgeons which have also avoided being eaten thus far.

The corydoras cannot go in 700L as it is inevitable that at some point the temptation to eat one will be too much for "Honey" to resist.

Would I have room for a individual or pair of sand sifters or should they be in larger groups?

And if sand sifters are a viable option which ones should I get?

I like the tapajos but from what I have read they need to be in groups of 5-6 and grow to around 9 inches...

Can I have a sand sifter and Is there a sand sifter that prefers to be or does not mind being on own or in a pair?

In case you are wondering why I want sand sifters: I dont have a problem with vacuuming my substrate during my weekly water changes - my intent for wanting sand sifters is not to have tank vacuums...my intent is to have some fish on the lower levels for interest and which will turn my play sand over so that I dont have problems with gas pockets as I like my substrate around 1-1.5 inches thick ...the other benefit being that as they move the sand any debris is kicked up and is then this is more likely to be picked up by filter.

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Goes sound good, I would get your smaller sizes like brachys or tapajos, [MENTION=5428]ozmo[/MENTION] would be the guy for geo info and breeds some great quality fish.

I am trying really hard to not overcrowd the tank. I like the red head tapajos but I am a bit uncertain about going down that route because everything I have read says they need to be in groups of 5-6. They also get quite sizable. I want to keep the oscar and choc together and was hoping to have 2 sevs - if I add 5 tapajos that might be too much....????

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What aboutleaving the Oscar on its own, and moving the chocolate cichlids and sevs corys into the new tank ( I can see the Oscar and choc causing issues as they reach maturity) wait a few months to see how the tanks feels and then re asses.

Patiences grasshopper

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What aboutleaving the Oscar on its own, and moving the chocolate cichlids and sevs corys into the new tank ( I can see the Oscar and choc causing issues as they reach maturity) wait a few months to see how the tanks feels and then re asses.

Patiences grasshopper

It is an all new experience for me having oscar, choc and sevs. I dont know what to expect behaviour wise down the track....from any of them...

In what ways would choc and oscar have issues later on?...aggression?..can you be more specific as to why they might not get on. (I'm not disagreeing with you - just picking your brain).

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They would try and sort out a pecking order and claim territories, you may have no dramas as they are being grown out together so you have that going for you.

They are pretty good at the moment..they swim calmly side by side and I have not seen any behaviour from either as of yet that would indicate there is a problem (yet)...my choc is a bit of a sook and seems very sensitive to any changes I make..(does not like it when I do water changes)....when my old severum, Torrey died (she had a deformity with the face and gills) choc seemed genuinely distressed by it...even hovered with her face pointing to the surface over her body perfectly still for about a minute before gently moving away...due to her sensitivity I watch choc to see if there is anything amiss...that is why I am tempted to house the gold severum which is at the bottom of the pecking order with choc as choc seems to not mind it, but she seems a bit frustrated and reacts more to the 2 dominant sevs which are acting more territorial..Also, I suspect that all my severums may be males...they all have pointed dorsals...but at 2 inches it may be to soon to tell for sure...

One good thing about having a messy oscar is that when it comes to feeding time the baby sevs are hanging near my oscar ready to pounce on the food that flies back out...I am primarily feeding Hikari food sticks...I am trying to find a pellet which has a good amount of vit c as "Honey" is not interested in veg or fruit at all...goes mad for garden worms though...perhaps I could start feeding the worms vit c foods/ more fruit ????...I have a compost area in garden I made especially for the the harvesting of worms...I feed them worms about every 3 days...1-2 each...and chop up skinny worms for the severums..not a fun job..eek...poor worms.

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8x24x28

the footprint of mine is 3 feet less...

When I introduced my second gold sev to the tank and the first one started to chase it all over the tank...was I correct in adding two more?..I was thinking that it would help disperse the aggression...but now I have 2 dominant and 2 not so....

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More is better in my opinion there's almost no aggression in my tank only the odd little chase

My smallest gold one -the one that is bottom of the severum rung is showing faint stress bars...but is still getting in there and competing for food...looks a little bit raggedy..some minor fin tears .. but otherwise is growing, active and attentive (not listless or disinterested in food and my presence).. Is a smart fish as is staying near the choc and oscar - could be that it has realised that the others dont get this close...so while it is with them not as likely to get bullied.... I was contemplating moving it into the quarantine tank but I may just wait and see as they seem to be slowly settling down.

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ALMOND LEAVES - WHITE SPOT

Hey all...still a few weeks away from moving into the 700L...(would have been sooner but for my car crash which cost me $600 excess - which is a lot of money when you are are student)...so all the fish are all still in the 75G 4 ft. I had noticed that I was getting white spot on 3 of the 4 severums. Not a lot, but visible on tail and fins. According to my research I need to use salt and increase the temp....problem: I have corydoras in the tank too and corydoras apparently dont tolerate salt too well....I was also not too sure about how the others would tolerate the salt as well....I decided I would go a different route...

INDIAN ALMOND LEAVES

I have decided to treat tank in a more holistic fashion. I have bought new canister to increase filtration. (a cheapie: Biopro 1200 -which is working good) And I raised the water temp to 81F like all my research indicated. The other thing I thought I would try was to use indian almond leaves as opposed to salt.

My thinking was:

The pH from my tap is 7.6..as my fish are amazonian fish, lowering my pH slightly may be of benefit to my fish's overall well-being...I am aware that kH also affects our attempts to alter pH...but even softening the water - even just a touch - I believe would improve fish well being...

The darker tea coloured water may increase the sense of safety for some of the fish thereby lowering stress.

The healing/antibacterial properties of the IAL would benefit any wounds on the fish. I know this point is contentious - however, I tend to believe that there is often some truth (whether proven scientifically or not) in old wives tails and mysticism.

I really wanted to address the fish's own immune response/health rather than focusing on trying to kill the white spot...I would leave that to raising water temp.

So far, so good. It has only been 24 hours but the fish are showing reduced amount of spots and are looking more sprite. Their colours -especially my larger gold sev are really popping. Fish seem more relaxed and are not chasing or charging at each other as much. All fish are eating well and are looking for food expectantly.

I used half the recommend amount of IAL (which is 1 large leaf per 20 litres) tank is 280L and I used 7 leaves which I put in a net bag and hung in water in the back corner of tank. I also did not want to drop my pH to quickly ... I do not know what the kH of the tank is...

My Normal tap/tank pH - 7.6

After 2 hours - 7.4

Next morning - 7.1

Lunchtime - 7.0

Tonight - 6.8

It has taken around 24 hours for pH to drop from 7.6 to 6.8....I will continue to measure over the next few days to see if it stabilizes or continues to drop. (I am glad I went with half dose).

I will also continue to monitor fish health/white spot and see how that goes....if it does not improve then I still have salt....

I will keep you all posted..

Edited by ORANGEMELLY

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While I applaud the use of IAL for general health, won't changing your PH as a by product during this time actually be adding to the fishes stress?

Remember whether your going meds or heat go the full course and don't let up, I would continue the heat for several days after the spots are gone.

Good Luck!

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While I applaud the use of IAL for general health, won't changing your PH as a by product during this time actually be adding to the fishes stress?

Remember whether your going meds or heat go the full course and don't let up, I would continue the heat for several days after the spots are gone.

Good Luck!

I considered that..but in the end I still thought that the impact on pH by the IAL would probably be less harsh than the addition of salt. I was also thinking about how the IAL would darken/stain the water thereby assisting the fish with the white spot to hide/relax. The fish with the white spot are the less dominant severums. And the one who has it worst is my smallest one - who gets bullied a lot. All severums are now looking far more relaxed and the chasing has decreased. I will measure the pH again in the morning...I was aiming to keep it around the 6.8-7.0 range..If it is still going down I will remove some of the leaves..

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I agree with [MENTION=11860]danfishy84[/MENTION] dropping the PH isn't going to help matters.

A darker environment can be had by covering part of the tank with a towel or something similar to cut down the amount of light in the tank.

JMO. good luck.

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If it works it works, a good end result is the goal!

I am curious how low your ph will go with that amount of IAL, for such a large drop I don't think your KH is very high?

You stated you have the IAL in a bag, so I assume you don't want the mess that comes with the leaves? If so, in the future you might want to look into IAL/Black Water extracts, they will colour your water, add the right acids and no leaf litter to be had.

Hope they are getting better.

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