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Suggestions to Bomb my tanks, want to kill EVERYTHING! good & bad & snails!

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Afternoon guys.

I am seeking some advice, I want to restart my 2 largest tanks utilising the sump that was used including the 2 tanks on a rack system. which as we all no went south super quick! White Spot (ich) & then ammonia spike finished everybody off. The 2 largest tanks 6x2x2 & 6x2x700 are the only tanks left with the 4x2x18 sump, still sitting as they were when I drained them including sand in the tanks & I also had bulk little black snails that lived in my sump & drove me nuts!

Basically I want to fill the tanks & sump, plug the pump in & if possible BOMB THE **** outa it with whatever. I want every last bit of bacteria, be it good or bad DEAD, also I want the snails DEAD. Then once all this has run it course, I want to clean out the sump, IN TAP WATER :0 OMG! Then start the cycle fresh & new.

Any advice would be appreciated, I just want to make sure I get everything including what lives in the sand substrate.

Thanks you guys & girls.

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I would also use bleach and make sure you stir up the sand to prevent anything from surviving underneath. Then just drain and run on tap water with an overdose of water conditioner for a few days.

Keep in mind that white spot comes from the tap water and can infect fish when stressed or weak. So no guarantee that it wont come back (UV sterilizer might do the trick).

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Whit spot dose not come from tap water.

Pool chlorine is gonna be the cheapest. Take any sand, filter media, ornaments, and leave them in the sun for a few days. The chlorine can discolour drift wood so what out for that

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I would run some bleach thru it or Condy's crystals!

Bleach has the advantage that you can neutralise it. I have used condies crystals and the only issue is cleaning the tank and it is purple......

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Whit spot dose not come from tap water.

Pool chlorine is gonna be the cheapest. Take any sand, filter media, ornaments, and leave them in the sun for a few days. The chlorine can discolour drift wood so what out for that

Where does white spot come from? I once read that it is in tap water in small and sometimes higher concentrations. Always assumed that was true.

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Where does white spot come from? I once read that it is in tap water in small and sometimes higher concentrations. Always assumed that was true.

It's a parasite that is in most tanks, for a out break to occur you need a stressor, so transportation, temp swing. Anything thing that stresses a fish and drops its natural defences (some more so than others) can allow the parasite to take hold. It's really important to quarantine new fish as not only are they stressed from transport and being in a new environment they also have a high possibility of having the parasite on them as well if coming from a lfs

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It's a parasite that is in most tanks, for a out break to occur you need a stressor, so transportation, temp swing. Anything thing that stresses a fish and drops its natural defences (some more so than others) can allow the parasite to take hold. It's really important to quarantine new fish as not only are they stressed from transport and being in a new environment they also have a high possibility of having the parasite on them as well if coming from a lfs

Yes i agree with all of that. But how does it get in most tanks? I heard that parasite is present in the tap water and you wrote it is not. Not claiming i am right, just want to know what you think.

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white spot can be in any water, mainly caused by temperature in fluctuations , so when you do a water change, the water in the tap is different to what is in the aquarium, so a sudden drop, and then a sudden rise in temp. can cause it, hence why people think its in tap water, also another easy way to get it is via buying loaches from LFS ( not there fault) in winter( they come from heated tanks, are usually in bags for about 24hrs and temp falls, even with useless heat pac's, and are put back into heated tanks, and loaches are prone to it , because they don't have any scales), also autumn and spring is the prone months ( that I've found) because of the warm /hot days and cooler/cold nights.

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Chlorine is used as a treatment for whitespot in some places. It also has a short life span that requires a fish host so if some managed to survive the chlorine in our tap water, it would soon die out as it has no means to reproduce

Sent from my SM-J100Y using Tapatalk

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Not having any idea what occurred why not just strip out what you don't want to keep. If you want to start over again, that would mean any and all substrate, rocks and what have you.

Easy to clean hardware with chlorine or bleach.

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Bleach and chlorine are the same stuff, just that chlorine is more concentrated and cheaper to buy by the litre compared to Bleach. Chlorine neutraliser works on both of them. I would use swimming pool grade chlorine neutralizer when you are done rather than aquarium grade. That stuff is powerful, half a teaspoon's worth will strip the chlorine out of a 20,000 litre pool .

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Bleach and chlorine are the same stuff, just that chlorine is more concentrated and cheaper to buy by the litre compared to Bleach. Chlorine neutraliser works on both of them. I would use swimming pool grade chlorine neutralizer when you are done rather than aquarium grade. That stuff is powerful, half a teaspoon's worth will strip the chlorine out of a 20,000 litre pool .

Chlorine can be inside bleach molecules, they are not the same. You will find however that bleach can also be made from hydrogen peroxide and other chemicals not just chlorine.

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Chlorine can be inside bleach molecules, they are not the same. You will find however that bleach can also be made from hydrogen peroxide and other chemicals not just chlorine.

True, but the bleach most likely to be used for this purpose is Chlorine based bleach, ergo its cheaper to use pool chlorine than household bleach given the quantity required.

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A light dose of pool chlorine or reasonable dose of bleach will be sufficient. Excessive use of chlorine can damage silicon which is not good if you want water tight tanks. You will still need to keep pumps and filters running and stir up substrate periodically.

If you have Malaysian Trumpet Snail then these will just close up water tight until the chlorine is gone. They can handle several years in emptied tanks (dry) buried in the substrate in my experience. The only reliable method of eradication I know of is to spread the substrate thinly on corrugated iron sheets and let them cook in the scorching hot summer sun for a week. Even pouring boiling water through the substrate won't work.

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Thank you ALL for the responses & advice, greatly appreciated.

I will work with chlorine, and at a lighter dosage, thanks you Winston.

Yeah little black snails in my sump, not worried if they are in substrate as future inhabitants will snack on them, just have just gotten all through my sump & drive me nuts!

Thanks guys:D

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Pop a few snails (or hydra or whatever) into a glass jar with your treated water. If those die then you know your dose is strong enough. The trumpet snails are harmless but shells can clog pumps and stop valves from closing.

You will be amazed at how clear, squeaky clean and sparkly your tanks are once the biofilm is destroyed by chlorine.

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I use copper for a lot of home made fish medications and haven't had any success against malaysian trumpet snails. They handle chlorine easily too. They just go dormant (and water tight) for as many years as required for their living conditions to improve.

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I use copper for a lot of home made fish medications and haven't had any success against malaysian trumpet snails. They handle chlorine easily too. They just go dormant (and water tight) for as many years as required for their living conditions to improve.

I found that it works If you start with a very low dose and increase gradually ( I always remove the fish first )

Also the higher your PH the less effective copper sulphate is .

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