aussie8699 Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 I have glass cut for a 7 x 2.5 x 2.5 foot tank which I plan to gradually fill with soft corals and fish with a sump and skimmer filtration as required. I have decided on a weir with holes in the bottom at the back in the Centre of the tank as I want both sides to have a clear view. The question is what would be the recommended size pump and with that how many holes in the bottom of the weir and what size. I was thinking 2 out and 1 return but not sure. Would I need 2 x 32mm out and 1 x 25mm return or something else? I know everyone has different opinions but any feedback is much appreciated. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lictoga Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 What flow rates do you want Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aussie8699 Posted October 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 I dont have much knowledge with marines so whatever would be a good flow rate and I can just work from that. As I said I have only had the glass cut so Im in a good position. I'm not having to work around anything thats been already done so this is where I need advice to know what holes to drill and silicone the glass together. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liquidg Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 (edited) Mate with in tank current you want from 15 to 25 times your tank water volume per hour of flow by using none return pumps, you know wave makers or power heads, then the return pump at your tanks height, not just as it is rated, should be of say 4 to 8 times your entire systems water volume per hour returning into your tank. All reactors and skimmers chiller should be at your sump, just from the sump back to the sump, then the water that was worked on heads back via return pump! You can not have to large of exit pipes, only too small. The return pipe should be a little larger in diameter to the return pumps exit diameter, it has be larger and can be 3 or more times the diameter of the pumps exit, the water is pressurised up wards, it is not lifted persay! So if your return is of 20mill pipe, then two exits each of something like 40 mill grey water flex pipes to make sure. The more the exit pipes bend, the less sound they make! Oh always heat and flair slightly with a funnel ends of all pipes and pumps then use elec ties so they do not come off! My top little 100 litre tank has 2000 litres per hour moving the water around in there. With slow in tank flow you get, less oxygen, PH fluctuations, more cyano, less food moved to filter feeders and more. So making your own tank, cool, since 81 I have always as well. You know what you are doing with hole making? With the tanks walls as you glue them, try not to let the glass touch other glass, always have silicon in between, I use to put in tooth pics and take out later and fill those holes, but that's not necessary. Base, always glue inside the walls. Ends, glue inside the walls. Edited October 25, 2015 by liquidg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aussie8699 Posted October 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Thanks so much mate for taking all the time to reply and help. I have also been in the Hobbie a long time myself since the late 70s but American Cichlids was always my thing but as you can appreciate with what they were then and now, they are as good as over for me. This has brought back my passion but man it's a whole new world and I feel like I know nothing again even though I've got over 35 years experience with fresh water. It's almost embarrassing. Ok so from what your saying I need to drill 2 exit holes to accommodate 40mm pipe and 1 hole for a 25mm return and go from there yes? Also thanks again for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liquidg Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 (edited) Its not that simple to be 25 mill and 40 mill holes, that was an example. Okay first up what is roughly the total volume of your system and tank! Then what return pump do you have to return that water volume at more then 4 times per hour, to check what it is coming out at what height, put pump in salt water in a bucket and hold the end of the hose at the height you will have your tank at, turn pump on with hose-pipe over another bucket up there and do this for 10 seconds, then measure that water volume in the second bucket and multiply by 6, that's the volume that pump will be carrying out for your tank, plus if settling filters are before your sump no pumps ill get particles to them so they will last a very long time, my first power heads lasted 20 years! Check that pumps exit-return pipe diameter from the impellor area and get piping to suit of just a little larger in diameter. If 20 mill, then triple that over all with return pipes, so for 20 mill return pipes all up no less then two at 30 mill each. Water under pressure is greater in size then water falling! So your holes in glass will have to be big enough so that your bulk heads of internal diameter of at least 30 mill each and maybe are 38 externally, fit nicely. You know want I mean, a 20 mill internal sized pipe is maybe 26 mill external diameter. Do not put a hole in your tank for return pipe, just for exits. Just make up a hooked shape in conduit then place in the end of your return pipe to hook over the tanks top edge, maybe in the corner, the weight of the water will keep it there and have the end finish just under the water level or the water will syphon to that pipes open height when power goes off. Now how are you going to protect the exits from life going through? You could drill holes at the height you want your water using 90 degree bulk heads an attach pipes to them to the sump, then build into your tank, slides made of glass like a sliding door tracks or as I use plastic moulding from bunnings that supports the size of egg crate nicely so the egg crates slides in it like a sliding window and you attach mesh like onion bag mesh to that egg crate or fish netting over it and slide in down the track and that becomes a huge volume barrier you can take out any time after water is turned off to clean or what ever. It can be 100 mill wide by 300 mill high or bigger or smaller hidden behind rock or on an angle or what ever and in your sump the exits go into filter socks and you make your own easily and can be much better then what you can buy, then make up what I came up with some years back that i called settling prefilters in with your filter socks, "nothing" in any shape or form gets past settling prefilters!! With out them that took many years to come up with, my bio filter would not reman functioning so well. Mate most of the food we use is of life and life has bones and shells that equates to calcium and silica particles and all plankton shed as do all other shrimp and the majority of planktons shells are made of silica that these little guys convert carbon dioxide into. These particles block live rock let alone external bio filtration and settling prefiters stop this from happening to external bio filtering If your barrier blocks at the top half, the bottom half is still letting water through nicely, if it blocks in the middle the top and bottom are still letting water through nicely, this way that I came up with for my first time with corals in 82 is a very safe way of protecting exits. Do not use small barriers protecting exits, they block quickly especially with soft corals, algae or anems in your tank. Plus you can make these to house wave makers to protect anems and more. How are you going to dictate your water height, all this will do that beautifully? Edited October 26, 2015 by liquidg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aussie8699 Posted October 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Wow loads to get my head around. The water volume is around 1100 litres and the pump I was going to use is a 16000 LPH Laguna that I can adjust the flow if need be. I wish I had your knowledge but I am just going to have to somehow gather the Information. Thanks mate I really do Appreciate all your Input and time you went to with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liquidg Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Its cool mate. I am up at the moment with a cough that won't let me sleep as yet. That's a chunky pump and with it being well over a hundred watts, it will heat your water a bit more then the average. Power heads of this nature can get quite warm and provide even more reasons for a chiller. That pumps out let from the impellor is over 35 mill and once turned down to say returning at maybe 5000 or 6000 litres per hour, you would be safer, just in case, using two exits with in 50 mill from each other at the same height at no less then 40 mill each internally, so two lots of 40mill plus of water leaving your tank. Put the top of the holes 30 mill below tank lid supports near to the corner of your tank for strength, "even on the end of your tank is cool for hole positions", if water level is to close to the top, fish like wrasse in particular are found on the carpet much easier. Now if you build it this way, as I have typed, what water returns to your tank, leaves-over flows from your tank, fool proof! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aussie8699 Posted October 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 No I would rather do it right and spend the money on a 6000 ltr pump and not have the concern of heating water as you say or forcing down an oversized pump and have the correct compatible one. So with a 6000lph pump still go the same as you said above? Mate that must be some cough I just noticed the time you made that last post. Also I have just been surfing around gathering info and seen some of your tank pics and there is no way you can create anything so amazing without a huge amount of knowledge and experience. I can now get started so thanks again for taking the time to help me. Again I really appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cam07 Posted October 27, 2015 Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 Seen this? http://www.qldaf.com/forums/aquarium-projects-diy-journals-11/pipe-sizing-charts-flow-rates-55887/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liquidg Posted October 28, 2015 Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 (edited) No I would rather do it right and spend the money on a 6000 ltr pump and not have the concern of heating water as you say or forcing down an oversized pump and have the correct compatible one.So with a 6000lph pump still go the same as you said above? Mate that must be some cough I just noticed the time you made that last post. Also I have just been surfing around gathering info and seen some of your tank pics and there is no way you can create anything so amazing without a huge amount of knowledge and experience. I can now get started so thanks again for taking the time to help me. Again I really appreciate it. I work in horticulture and maintenance, anyway this sheila asked if I could mow her lawn while working next door, so I got out some gear and did it, she has never picked up the dog poo and the grass was so over grown I didn't see it till all the dust from the dry stuff was all over me and going into my lungs, that night I had issues with breathing then an infection in there, then flem galore, near to getting to a doctor, but it slowly cleared up with heaps my calcium-ascorbate powder going in with water and breathing in my mix of saltwater in mist form, but not with out a lot of lost sleep! Mate to learn heaps in my day, it was about stuffing up so much and never giving in and tireless experiments with unlimited life at hand that I have always collected my self! I am DIY person until it is impossible to do it myself after trying all that I can imagine or accidently came up with. Oh and it may be a bit expensive, but I always have an extra pump, the same size standing by, just in case! If a 6000 pump will take the water you need to the height you need, then it sounds good! Most loose quite a bit of pressure once you go above a metre up, it may only do 4300 at your tanks height, just check to be sure. Edited October 28, 2015 by liquidg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aussie8699 Posted October 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 (edited) I agree and I'm also similar with the diy thing I hate not understanding about something. Thanks and thanks also to Cam07 for the link. Great advice about the backup pump too thanks mate. It's amazing how something that seems such a no brainer can be overlooked until you need it. Thanks again Edited October 28, 2015 by aussie8699 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aussie8699 Posted October 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 (edited) As far as the holes positions is it necessary to have the weir in the corner of the tank as I would have prefered around the Centre at the back so the sides can be clear for viewing. Edited October 28, 2015 by aussie8699 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
