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liquidg

A safe way for oxygen saturation.

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The lower the temp, the higher the available oxygen, but if taken below 22c to 23c, its not good for most shop bought marine fish and inverts, well that's another story, they can handle cooler waters compared to fish.

The obvious bubbles in this pic, in my algae area, is something many reefers see in their tanks, usually in winter.

My algae is under 20 hour lighting, so these bubbles have near no carbon dioxide content, plus carbon dioxide bubbles can not get to the size of oxygen bubbles due to oxygen saturation!

As you can see the bubbles in this pic are quite large, this is because the temps and my system makes for possibly complete oxygen saturation, so these bubbles made via photosynthesis by cyano are not able to mix with the water easily, so they become to large and the immense flotation of bubbles this size just takes them up and they burst!

I use a paint brush to free my weak algae of cyano at cooler tamps or it will suffocate it and that's not good, as i brush it off it goes into my settling filters and that's good.

This species of algae is painfully weak in relation to attacks by anything and also needs cool waters, but its importing and converting capacity is second to none!!.

1-1-a-oxygen-saturation-poi_zpsxtewqd3i.jpg

Edited by liquidg
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It looks cool too lol.

Do you have any issues with that much available oxygen? Around a month ago I added an airstone whilst using chemiclean to get rid of cyano and my wife took a liking to the look of the bubbles under moonlight so it's stayed.

I have noticed corals growing faster and the fish being more active and hungry. I have also needed to clean the glass more frequently.

I have done a bit of reading on the subject and the worst thing can be salt creep with isn't an issue as the water level is over 20cm from the top of the tank. I have read that it helps degassing c02 which means not as much ph fluctuations at night.

Have you noticed the same thing?

I have been considering adding some algae to the dt to represent a kelp field, unfortunately the ones I like are either invasive or grows too slow and the foxface will wipe it out.

Cheers mick

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It looks cool too lol.

Do you have any issues with that much available oxygen? Around a month ago I added an airstone whilst using chemiclean to get rid of cyano and my wife took a liking to the look of the bubbles under moonlight so it's stayed.

I have noticed corals growing faster and the fish being more active and hungry. I have also needed to clean the glass more frequently.

I have done a bit of reading on the subject and the worst thing can be salt creep with isn't an issue as the water level is over 20cm from the top of the tank. I have read that it helps degassing c02 which means not as much ph fluctuations at night.

Have you noticed the same thing?

I have been considering adding some algae to the dt to represent a kelp field, unfortunately the ones I like are either invasive or grows too slow and the foxface will wipe it out.

Cheers mick

No issues with more or less total oxygen saturation, these bubbles are in my algae area, the lights being on for 20 hours per day in there, a very functional dry section and my temp is set at 23c makes for high oxygen levels and with high oxygen you get less stress and constant good PH with out the need for good KH.

Yeh, with an air stone you may get salt creep, but with good maintenance salt creep is impossible.

CO2 can not be an issue with correct design and off set lighting times.

With my style of dry section its impossible to have ammonia, co2 and or PH issues, well not since my second trickle filter build and that was over 30 years ago.

When the water is smashed against some thing like a water fall you might say as in "cascaded water" which is my dry section, this forces the nitrogen out, co2 out due to increased oxygen absorption because of this violent action. ammonia out along with sulphur.

I don't know what you mean by kelp bed, you don't mean in your display do you, you do not put algae/plants in your display unless you have really sound knowledge of what each species does and if it is popular as food for the tank species.

Cyano, algae and plants, keep them external and a barrier after all of them so nothing gets to your display that you didn't put in your self, plus algae fight via chems and these chems upset the algae within corals.

All of these will go to spore at times and you don't want any getting to your display.

There is only one algae you can 100 percent trust in your DT and that is ulva, but of course with it being healthy for us as well, most of your DT life will eat it.

The one on the left in the pic is the only completely harmless ulva algae, this pic is of it in the wild and all ulva is extremely high in cyano content with in its cells, that's why it is good in so many ways

sea-lettuce-_zpsplsc7x59.jpg

Edited by liquidg
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