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DeBree420

co2 in a big tank

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The lights will be the expensive part. [MENTION=2383]ageofaquariums[/MENTION] sell a few led's that would probably work well if you chat to them they should be able to help more

a big co2 cylinder from a home brew shop would be the way to go for the co2 id recommend running it through a reactor, it dissolves the co2 better.

But mostly make sure you post lots of pics for us tp see the tanks progression

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Trick is diffusing the CO2. A good option here is the Tunze 7074.500

As far as the lighting goes, the biggy is what plants? Because if low light, then this is easy.

If high light, the biggy becomes "what is the budget?"

As to a psychiatric evaluation..... we are more likely to encourage the onset of fish madness than to judge :)

Besides...... we're all mad here....

DisneyCheshireCat.jpg

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I'd be asking what plants you are planning to keep first in regards to lighting, if low light, easy, I think you could get away with a 4ft/5ft placed in the centre of the tank which will bring out enough light, I have played with a Ista 60cm LED on a 90cm tank and was amazed by the output of the light.

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On a tank the size you are talking about you would require a mechanical mixer type diffuser not the ceramic disk .

as for lighting the only light I have seen ( for freshwater plants ) that penetrates 70 cm deep is a Kessil A360W - E Series Tuna Sun at almost $600 each - you would need 4 maybe 5 for that tank .

I have tried 4 tube t5ho flouros on a 5 ft x 2ft x 29 inch deep tank I could not get enough light to the bottom to need CO2 .

The current Fluval led lights ( the new 2.0 ) easily penetrate 2ft deep and will penetrate 70cm for low to medium light plants ( I am using them at present - some plants do not like them - but most are ok ) on an 8 foot tank x 2ft wide at 70cm deep you would require 4 x 4ft lights - cheaper than the kessils but nowhere near as good .

The Fluval leds will grow hair grass at 2ft deep - the old Fluvals grew glosso at 2ft - the 2.0 fluvals are a bit more bluish and less yellowish and glosso does not do well with them , even at 45cm depth .

The kessil lights have both colour and intensity adjustable .

I would put up some pics of my tanks but they are overgrown and look like 5H1T due to my having been severely ill ( still am ) but there are pics of what they were like before on the forum .

Be careful of what CO2 kit you buy too as some bottles can not be legally refilled and some regulators are not compatible with the bottles that can be refilled .

Edit @The Tech Den can give you all the info you need about the Kessil lights and the Fluvals .

P.S If you stay at 60cm depth most of the issues become easily solved ( and cheaper )

Edited by pony-tail
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Following along really. Interested in the lights. Been looking into kessil or dalua or cheap chinese LEDs again.

Mine is 2 & 1/2 feet deep and I've noticed since switching to a quad t5ho that I no longer get any pearling that was occurring with the LED lights. Looking at the link below and extrapolating a bit I think a quad t5ho would be the minimum. This might tie in with the post above. I've swapped to the quad t5ho due to being cheaper up front. In the long run, I'd love to go back to LEDs but they are expensive to replace. :(

http://www.fishlore.com/fishforum/content/125-tips-successful-planted-aquarium.html

CO2 - I use a 7kg(?) bottle with a backup 3.5kg (?) so don't have to rush off to shops for a refill. Once you get past the up-front cost, going into a micro-brewery for a bottle refill is very cheap. On the 4ft tank I use the tunze with a ph controller and really need two but can get away with one. A ph controller is useful but lots of people get by with watching plants and a drop checker. I went with the tunze as I wanted something running on completely separate lines to the canister filters.

A sera reactor might be another thought?

https://www.sera.de/en/products/in_category/technical-cosub2sub-equipment-5162/product/sera-flore-co2-active-reactor-500-1000.html

Substrate - actually I think this is worth some thought. I find it tends to get overlooked but worth doing some research on.

Ferts dosing - swap to dry ferts or mixing your own and it's cheap as chips.

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Budget is "do it slowly and hide the receipts from the man"

That's easy us blokes are but simple creatures with simple needs, unless of course we are the ones trying to hide receipts from you women, Lol.

What types of grasses are you looking to keep?

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My only solid plan so far is a big flat Rock I can sit on while pruning

Imo I'd set up your co2 system first. The bigger the bottle the cheaper on refills. And co2 injection should help low tech as well as high tech lighting.

But heck idk, spending hundreds of dollars will be a given with going high tech imo. Doing it cheap just means not thousands.

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Honestly I am prepared to go high tech, but I want to do it in small steps so it's not a multi thousand investment in one go. I have an old six foot t5 and a single hanging halide to go on it as a temporary measure, so if co2 is not really an outlandish idea, that and the substrate will be my first port of call

Edited by DeBree420
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I had a look and the larger bottle here says tare 7.35kg and is 60cm high. Still on first bottle but the smaller one would last several months.

Have you looked into co2? I found deciding to get a ph controller on the solenoid (or just solenoid / timer) and how to inject co2 (ceramic stone, in-line reactor like sera or separate setup like tunz) took a bit of searching.

Other thought we looked at is the tank is a display tank in living room so co2 bottle is tucked away a bit so it can't get knocked over.

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Let us know how you go :)

Many of the suggestions I got were to go inline, I was just getting short on room and have an internal filter to push the water around.

You could always try one of something and see how it goes.

Go for as powerful as you can get imo. Nothing worse then a death rattle in the reactor due to trying to push the envelope in bubbles per second and just swamping it with gas :)

I was told if you go two reactors then the gas tubing splitter may need taps to control the flow rates to each.

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