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chazycraig

airline piping for large air pumps.

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i just bought an airlab air pump and am wondering whats the best piping option.

 

ring main at this point is not an option. as tanks are in odd places and outside.

see a lot of pvc as an option. rather not as im not sure how long i'm going to keep this set up.

is irrigation (black piping) usable or does it have to be high pressure piping (assuming that is usable)?

everything has to be glued regardless of material?

should i just stick with 4mm silicone piping?

 

 

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I have one large pump under my house (LP 200 i think) which i run black irrigation tube, (the flex 4mm, same size as normal airline) to 8 different tanks all over my house, and a couple of lines into ponds outside 

I split it at the pump and have one line fully open to allow any back pressure to get out 

I use normal airline for the last section that actually goes into the tank though as i don't know if over time the black tube would leech anything into the water 

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I set up my air lines using I think it was 20mm clear hose which was running off LP100 or larger air pumps. 

Hose hooked onto pump with radiator clamp and using black polly 90 deg  bends or ends which were secured using zip ties rather then the black polly clips, I thought less air would escape.

Used 4mm irrigation barbs pushed into the plastic hose and they gave a good seal also, there are 2 types of barbs , one with a sharp ends and one with just push points. Used a pair of pointy nose pliers to get the barbs through the hose.

Used standard 4mm air line just pushed onto the barbs and then airlines into sponge filters and used  airline control valves .

If interested I have attached a photo of airline fittings I would sell and there are more around I would top up the box.  

Airline_Fittings.JPG

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12 hours ago, chazycraig said:

have u tried other options to compare or find any downsides?

Only downside is balancing the air pressure across the tanks as the lines to the tanks are different lengths but i just run a airline tap on each one at the tank to get the pressure i want 

the  open line at the splitter at the pump i have faced back under the pump at the intake to try and help avoid dust getting it clogged up as it is under the house, upside i cant here the pump running at all 

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thanks both, gonna do that for the mean time till i expand/move. should save time/money

@Munruben1 thanks i think i have all the pieces i need to that was wondering how poly connected to standard airlines. never thought of zip tying the connections will definitely do that thanks.

@Slipshodman i might do that since i will have excess air (sounds weird saying that) and plan on putting it outside. no pump cover i assume?

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On 16/01/2020 at 2:58 PM, chazycraig said:

no pump cover i assume?

No pump cover, don't want it to overheat, the open air line blow back under the pump possibly helps with heat also 

My house is split level built on a very steep block and the area where the pump is i can walk in easily but still fully enclosed from the outside elements

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how did u connect the poly pipe to the pump. the output is too small for 25 mm poly and too large for 19 mm.

how did u start your connection to poly?

@Munruben1 u said u started with 20 mm clear pipe and went straight to 19 mm connector? cos i can't seem to connect mine (i think its 20 mm unlabelled pipe i have at home).

20200118_094309.jpg

20200118_094328.jpg

20200118_094359.jpg

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You could  use the piece in the photos below, the open end is 20mm and you could put it in hot water and then push it onto your pump.

There are 35 holes for 4mm hose & you just plug the ones you do not want with silicone.

 

 

Another option is  the piece with the clips on it. 19mm poly will fit in one end and warm the other end up to push onto pump and either use the clips on it or use proper radiator clamps

 

20mm_adaptor__2.JPG

20mm_adaptor__1.JPG

35_plug_for_air_pump__1.JPG

35_plug_for_air_pump__2.JPG

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don't know where u get either of those pieces, but tried the hot water trick. which i think worked well enough that i can't even change the angle of the elbow joint so don't think need the zip ties or those metal things.

 

edit: were check valves used on each 4mm airline or on the poly?

20200119_112127.jpg

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Check valve on airline near each filter & I had those bits in the photos I put up & should mentioned they were free to pickup.

Hope it works for you now.

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On 19/01/2020 at 11:25 AM, chazycraig said:

don't know where u get either of those pieces, but tried the hot water trick. which i think worked well enough that i can't even change the angle of the elbow joint so don't think need the zip ties or those metal things.

 

edit: were check valves used on each 4mm airline or on the poly?

20200119_112127.jpg

This configuration is fairly common but not recommeded as it will place significant back pressure on the two rubber diaphrams (and 4 flapper valves). If you take care of these, the pump will last many many years rather than 2 or 3 years.

Suggest you use a much longer flexible hose to curve/sweep around a corner or re-position the pump so you don't have a corner or use a TEE piece instead of the elbow so the pipe diameter available to pushed air is double. Or a combo of these. Another trick is to use silicon sleeves inside each other to step up to wider diameters. 

Don't forget to place the pump above water level as well.

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@aquaholic99

thanks ill change to a longer pipe. 

searched silicone sleeves came up with some sus results such as "penis clamping clips" to covers for drink bottles. is there a place or more relevant search term for the item ur talking about.

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Supposing the pump pipe outlet has 18mm Outside Diameter (OD) but you wanted to attach this to a pipe with 30 mm OD. You would step up the Outside Diameter of your 18mm pump pipe to 30mm so it's easy to connect these together with a flexible hose.

So you visit Bunnings but the only hose to fit your 18mm pump pipe is a standard 19mm silicone tube. This has a wall thickness of 2mm. It will fit over your pump pipe but it would never fit onto the 30mm pipe at the other end,  even if you soaked that end in boiling water and stretched it with a pair of pliers stuck down the inside and opened wide up. However it does have 2mm wall thickness so stick it on but only use a 3 or 4 cm length. Now your pump pipe has an OD of 22mm because this hose has added 2mm on each side.  

Then you drive back to Bunnings to buy some 22mm hose which also has a 2mm wall thickness. So step this up exactly the same to get an OD of 26mm. And repeat and repeat. 

There are different brands of silicone hose which have much thicker walls but not from Bunnings. And dont be afraid to use different hoses. Garden hose, braid hose, etc. Also you don't need to use complete hose diameters if you will be using a hose clamp. So rather than buying multiple diameter hoses, just cut the side wall so you get a C shaped piece to wrap around. You will have to trim the lengths of these C pieces to get a snug fit but it's much easier to do than it sounds. Alternatively if you befriend the local hardware store, they are happy to give out 4cm lengths of different hose sizes so you can "trial fit" things. 

This is exactly the same principle used with rigid PVC pipe adapters. If you heat gun a PVC pipe, it will get very soft and can be expanded to much wider diameters but do join your air pump with flexible hose coupling even if you use a rigid PVC main ring line as the flexible hose join will reduce pump vibration transfer to your main air line and reduce the noise. 

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I found a couple of photos as examples.

I like to place the airpump at the end of a fish aisle high up /above water level. So it is out of the way but fairly easy to get to if you need.

Air Pump Setup #2.JPG

Air Pump Setup.JPG

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already found that out, it been lowered again. lookin for a new place/way to have it high up.  the vibration was goin down the side of the house through the wall i guess cos was told they couldn't sleep even though they were further away from the pump than i was.

 

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The main reason for placing the pump up high is to prevent a water siphon back flow if the power stops -  and the air is usually less dusty up high so air filter won't clog. 

You could reduce the risk of a back siphon if you are bleeding excess air out to the atmosphere - exactly the same as to your fish tank but not to water.  You would need an air valve because the air will take the easiest path out.

So in a power outage, air gets sucked back in through the air bleed path to prevent a water siphon. This is not the best solution but better than not having one. 

You could also use a water pipe flapper check valve (not recommended) or place several anti siphon loops in the main line (not recommended ) or  just hope a back siphon never occurs (not recommended). 

I'm sure you will work things out. 

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Oh... I forgot to mention that air in the main line does not lose much pressure through friction (unlike water) so don't be afraid to place air pump on the other side of house or in the garden shed  (buried air line) or in the roof space above ceiling. If noise is an issue. 

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Someone asked me privately what an anti siphon loop is...

It's putting the airline up much higher than the tank water level so water would find it more difficult to back siphon even though the air pump may be on the ground. 

If you did use an anti siphon loop, you might as well use two of them to double the prevention rate for only a little more outlay. 

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