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4 foot sump

In order:

Fine sponge

Coarse sponge

Matrix

Ceramic rings

Marinepure balls

Coarse sponge

Chemipure

Maceopore

Coarse sponge

Boss media (k1)

Nitraguard

Pump

Sorry looking a bit rank at the moment... Dont mind the duckweed either haha

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[ATTACH=CONFIG]63694[/ATTACH]

A pic of the sump on my old tank. It was a salty with all the trimmings. Full light automation with luna cycle, chiller / heater control, protien skimmer with ozone, refugium with a deep sand bed on reverse lighting, wave maker, calcium reactor with pH controller, phosphate sponge, semi auto water change and auto topup with reverse osmosis and ion resin.

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post-7637-14711633840443_thumb.jpg If I set my baffles up like this can I have to the last baffle the same height as the first one or do I make it an inch or so lower so it flows better or can I leave them both at 250 mm and how low can I make it Just above the min line now or will my max and min heights change much when I move the baffles around Edited by yellows

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post-7637-14711633844687_thumb.jpg Here you go [MENTION=7848]PETFISH[/MENTION] spent the arvo drawing up how I want to set up my sump with all the media that I have on hand this is what it should look like just need to know what height to make the last Baffle

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Bioballs? Bit outdated aren't they?

Yes I know mate they were in it when I bought as I said with what I have on hand will be eventually replaced with Marine Pure Spheres or something else

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the hieght of the last baffle will determine how much of the 2 small chambers are under water, but will also effect the backflow area needed for when the power is cut, if you think you have enough area allowed for backflow then leave it as is. :)

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Cheers mate I think I know what you mean. Also will it matter if I put a bigger pump in later say a 5000 L/PH when I hook my 3 x 4 x 1.5 x 1.5 rack up to it. At the moment it has a 2750 L/PH in it and is only hooked up to my 5 x 2 x 2 but will be hooked up to both. Also am I better of putting another baffle into to force the water downwards before the pump

Edited by yellows

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So does anyone think it will matter if I put a bigger pump in later on and do I need to put another Baffle in to force the water downward to the pump to stop it over heating

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I was under the impression bioballs work best in a wet / dry situation ie. allow water flow to pass over them and not be fully submerged. But if those plastic things are just to be a substrate for bacteria, then all good. Marine pure is used submerged from what I have seen.

So your baffle heights work best for submerged substrate not bio-balls which are for aerobic colonizing. Your anaerobic bacteria colonies will be in the submerged spheres and coral / shell grit (and currently on those plastic things).

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I would make the last baffle slightly shorter than the other one so 225 or 200.

I also wouldn't put jap mat on the bottom of the sump.

I use glass supports to keep media up off the bottom.

[MENTION=7637]yellows[/MENTION]

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I would make the last baffle slightly shorter than the other one so 225 or 200.

I also wouldn't put jap mat on the bottom of the sump.

I use glass supports to keep media up off the bottom.

[MENTION=7637]yellows[/MENTION]

No worries mate even if I'm putting a bigger pump in eventually

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Ok thanks everyone for your input. I will be going with a 225mm Last Baffle no Jap Mat in the chambers will be putting in some rails and egg crate to support the media and look at replacing the Plastic things later on and Fingers crossed and some silicone and I'll let you know how it goes

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On 06/03/2011 at 12:09 AM, rollie said:

In through a sock through lava rock up through corol rubble and then through matrix and aqua clay balls. Then heating and a 3600ltr/hr aqua one pond pump.

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How’d you work out where the glass pieces go? And how good does it work?. 

 

Also do what size tank is it for?. 

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